ROES OF 
TF0RNIA 






I 




^ 




GEORGE WHMTON JAMES 



HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 




SIACING IN 1849, IN THE SIERRAS OK CALIFORNIA. 
Reproduced by permission from the painting by Gutzon Borglum. 

Page J.i6 



HEROES 

OF 

GAL I FO R NI A 



THE STORY OF THE FOUNDERS OF THE GOLDEN 

STATE AS NARRATED BY THEMSELVES OR 

GLEANED FROM OTHER SOURCES 



By GEORGE WHARTON JAMES 

AUTHOR OF "THROUGH RAMONA'S COUNTRY," "THE OLD MISSIONS 
OF CALIFORNIA," "THE WONDERS OF THE COLORADO DES- 
ERT," "IN AND AROUND THE GRAND CANYON," ETC. 



As one candle lighteth another and diminisheth not inflame, 
so nobleness enkindletk nobleness 



BOSTON 

LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 

1910 






Copyright, igio, 
By Edith E. Farnsworth. 



All rights reserved 



Published, November, 1910 



S. J. Parkhill & Co., Boston, U. s. a. 



lC!.A:^75r>92 



TO THOSE 

^naic lEm anti SSIomcn 

OF SAN FRANCISCO 

WHO, AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE AND FIRE OF IQOG, AS THEY 
GAZED UPON THEIR DEVASTATED HOMES AND BUSINESS 
HOUSES, THEN AND THERE BEGAN TO PLAN FOR THEIR 
IMPROVED RESTORATION, WHICH NOW, I9IO, IS MORE THAN 
ACCOMPLISHED, THESE VARIED CHAPTERS OF CALIFORNIA 
HEROISM ARE DEDICATED AS A SINCERE EXPRESSION OF 
APPRECIATION AND ADMIRATION 



INTRODUCTION 

"DRAVE and heroic deeds have always thrilled the 
■*^ minds of others to emulation. A great deed is 
an inspiration for other great deeds. Bravery and 
heroism are as contagious as cowardice and fear. 
The habit of the mind should be towards right, re- 
gardless of all consequences. The brave man knows 
nothing of consequences; he does his duty and leaves 
consequences to take care of themselves. 

During all ages it has been recognized that nothing 
stimulates most men to heroism and nobility so much 
as the example of their fellows. From all time the acts 
of the noble and brave have been recited to incite to 
emulation those who listen. All war songs have this 
origin, and Napoleon could think of nothing more 
powerful to say, when his soldiers were about to fight 
in the presence of the sphinx and p}Tamids of the Nile, 
than: ** Forty centuries gaze down upon you." 

This principle is recognized, also, in the Scriptural 
records, where, to stimulate converts of the Christian 
faith to live the new life demanded of them, the writer, 
after recounting the wonderful deeds of the heroes of 
the past, added these words: "Wherefore, seeing we 
also are compassed about with so great a cloud of 
witnesses, let us lay aside every weight, and the sin 
which doth so easily beset us, and let us run with 
patience the race that is set before us." 



vi HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

As all need constant inspiration to noble endeavor, 
and as Californians especially have many " witnesses " 
who proved themselves great and heroic souls in the 
past, it has been my aim to present in these pages a 
series of pictures of their heroism, hoping that my 
readers may thereby be encouraged to emulate them 
in spirit, if not in deed. 

Wherever possible, the original narrators have been 
allowed to tell the stories in their own words. I wish 
to stimulate to a fuller reading and larger knowledge 
of original sources. California has a greater wealth of 
such literature than any other section of the United 
States, and it should be better known. Parents are 
urged to point out to their children, and teachers, also, 
to their students, the pleasure and profit that can be 
gained by further readings on the lines I have here 
suggested. In the last chapter, references may be 
found to books and magazines which give these fuller 
particulars. The time will soon come, I hope, when 
every school library in the State will possess the fol- 
lowing books, which might be regarded as the Cali- 
fornia classics: Palou's "Life of Serra," — a good 
translation is needed and doubtless will be forthcom- 
ing ere long; Parker Winship's translation of the 
Castaiieda narrative of the Coronado expedition; a 
good history of the California Franciscan missions; 
my own *' In and Out of the Old Missions," until a 
better book makes its appearance; Pattie's Narrative; 
McGlashan's "History of the Donner Party;" the 
" Story of Virginia Reed Murphy; " Manly's " Death 
Valley in '49," and the various magazine articles on the 



INTRODUCTION vii 

subject; Bonner's " Life of James Beckwourth," 
Hittell's " Life of James Capen Adams," the " Life of 
Kit Carson," with General and Mrs. Fremont's various 
works; a good hfe of Thomas Starr King; Mrs. Carr's 
" The Iron Way; " the " Life and Services of Judge 
Field; " books on the Comstock Lode and the Sutro 
Tunnel; " Ramona " and the "Life of Helen Hunt 
Jackson;" Clarence King's "Mountaineering in 
California; " a sketch of James Lick's Life; William 
Smythe's " The Conquest of Arid America," the " Life 
and Work of Stephen M. White; " Edwin Markham's 
story of how he came to write " The Man with the 
Hoe; " Muir's " Mountains of California; " Har- 
wood's " Life of Burbank," and the Century Maga- 
zine's series of articles on "• California Before and 
After the Gold Discovery." 

The neglect to provide these books is a proof of 
imdifference to the wonderfully inspiring and thrilling 
stories contained therein. Students will revel in them, 
more than in novels, if they are led to see the spirit 
in which they are written. How shall they read, how- 
ever, when they are not even aware of their exis- 
tence. 

If the Native Sons and Daughters of the Golden West 
would take hold of this matter with one-tenth of the 
energy displayed by their pioneer ancestors, the thing 
would be done in less than a year, and with this noble 
aim these organizations w^ould do more good to the 
rising generation than any other one thing they could 
accomplish. 

I trust it is not necessary to assure my readers that 



viii HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

I have no thought that I have exhausted the Hst of 
Cahfornia's heroes and heroines. I have v^ritten of those 
whose acts have impressed me, those who have stood 
out as " beacon lights " in my reading. I doubt not, 
however, that many readers will wish that this, or that, 
or the other character who has loomed up as heroic to 
them, should have found a place in these pages. So 
that, were the list to be revised, possibly a hundred 
more names, each as worthy as those I have selected, 
could be added. In this is one of my great satisfac- 
tions. I confidently hope some such awakening will 
be the result of the publication of this book, and that 
the columns of our newspapers will contain many 
admirable stories of heroism that I have overlooked. 
Thus the good work will go on, and the youth of our 
Golden State be quickened to higher and nobler 
endeavor and greater achievement because of the 
emulation that will be stimulated by the recital of these 
noble deeds of the past. 

Many an interesting chapter might have been 
written on the quiet and almost unknown heroism of 
pioneer physicians, preachers, priests, sisters of charity, 
nuns, and teachers of the early days. California's his- 
tory is full of the deeds of heroic men who regarded 
their own lives not at all in the face of every kind of 
danger, — snow storms, sand storms, cloudbursts, floods, 
falling trees, hostile Indians, wild animals and cruel 
and bloodthirsty banditti. Bret Harte has given some 
vivid pictures of them, which, creatures of his own 
imagination though they be, were yet largely true to 
fact and convey a generally accurate idea of the spirit 



INTRODUCTION ix 

of the times. Books by the dozen might be written, 
all worthy of careful perusal, telling of the incredible 
hardships endured by patient and silent nuns and 
sisters of charity as they engaged in their humanitarian 
work of educating the young, relieving the distressed, 
caring for the sick, and reclaiming the wayward in 
those early days, before comfortable homes were 
provided for themselves. And the pioneer priests 
and preachers of all churches and creeds! "What an 
army of self-sacrificing heroes were they, whose names 
and histories will never be fully recorded on earth. 
Riding to and fro over mountains, plains and desert, 
their lives in constant jeopardy, preaching in the open 
air, in saloons, in dance-halls, anywhere, so long as 
they could get a hearing, fearlessly counselling men 
against the vices they loved and urging them to live 
the virtues they hated, the pioneer minister of the gospel 
performed tasks which were not for weaklings. Only 
men strong, physically, mentally and spiritually, were 
capable of doing their work, and doing it well, for 
scepticism and infidelity often went hand in hand 
with profligacy and vice, and it was no uncommon 
thing for men inflamed with evil passions and intoxi- 
cated with liquor to threaten the lives of those who 
dared rebuke their vices and incite them to purer and 
holier living. 

The pioneer teachers, too, who endured poverty, 
isolation, and weary heart- longings in their zeal to 
educate the growing youth of the new California, — 
what a debt the State and country owes to them. 

It will be noticed that I have no chapter on John 



xii HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

of his own faith. In Beckwourth's book there are 
statements in regard to his sale of Hquor to Indians. 
If Beckwourth were aHve to-day and were to do busi- 
ness in the manner there described, I would hasten to 
the nearest court and swear out a warrant for his 
arrest, and urge the officials to see that he received 
severe punishment. Yet his bravery is worthy of emu- 
lation; as also is that of James Capen Adams, whose 
hunting instincts do not seem at all commendable to 
me. Pattie was a braA'e and heroic character, yet his 
trapping of animals for their fur I regard as inhuman 
and cruel, and I believe such trapping should be sup- 
pressed by law. I also think that he showed too great 
a readiness to shoot Indians, and to take revenge upon 
all Indians for the crimes of some. I look up with great 
respect to the commanding genius of Judge Field, yet 
some of the decisions which he rendered do not meet 
my sense of justice; and I can see in the acts of the 
" Big Four," who created the Central Pacific Railway, 
many things that lay them open to censure and con- 
denmation. 

So, my young and older readers, do not take my 
praise as indiscriminate. Look for the good in men, — 
as I have done in the examples here presented — and 
extol, honor and emulate that; the things that are 
weak or evil ignore and avoid. 

I do not claim that all the extracts I have made 
are literature, — that they possess that pure literary 
quality which sets them above the common wTiting of 
ordinary men, — but I do claim that none of them are 
bad, from the literary standpoint; and, what to me is 



INTRODUCTION xiii 

better than the mere choice and arrangement of the 
words is that they are all good from the standpoint of 
the spirit. They contain the fire, the energy, the life, 
the sparkle of living men. In them is no conjuring up 
of fictitious emotion while quietly seated in a comfort- 
able library, surrounded by every luxury. The men 
and women who wrote the stories from which these 
extracts were taken, lived the life, and therefore are 
entitled to all the respect and attention which the human 
heart natiurally confers upon the actual doer of things, 
as differentiated from the mere dreamer or writer about 
them. 

If this book helps to arouse thought, excite desire for 
further study of the lives of the pioneers, builders and 
heroes of the State, and stimulate longing to be filled 
with their heroic spirit, so that the rising generation 
may bring to the problems that will confront them, 
and the work they must accomplish, the same energy, 
bravery, self-sacrifice, self-discipline, high endeavor 
and exalted purpose shown in the past, then, indeed, 
will the time, thought and energy spent in its arrange- 
ment be more than repaid, and its author fully grati- 
fied. 




Pasadena, August, 1910. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PACK 

I. The Dauntless Hero-Explorer, Alar- 

90N I 

II. The Watchful Hero-Commander, Mel- 

CHIOR Diaz 4 

III. The Self-Sacrificing, Self-Disciplining, 

Pioneer Missionary Hero, Junipero 
Serra 7 

IV, The Indefatigable Hero, Captain de 

Anza 16 

V. The Faithful Hero, Padre Sarria 24 

VI. The Unterrified Hero-Trapper, James 

O. Pattie ....'... 28 

VII. The Hero of the Sierras, Jedediah 

Smith 4° 

VIII. The Typical Hero of Early Gold Days, 

John Bidwell 45 

IX. The Great-Hearted Hero of the Snows, 

Charles T. Stanton .... 56 

X. The Midnight Heroine of the Plain, 

Virginia Reed 64 

XI. The Generous Heroes of Death Valley, 

Manly and Rogers ']t, 

XII. The Unknown Heroes of Death Valley 86 

XIII. The Watchful Hero Scouts, Carson 

and Beale 94 

XIV. Sailor Heroes of Pioneer Times . 104 



xvi CONTENTS 

CHAPTER 

XV. The Reckless Hero of Indian Fame, 
James P. Beckwourth .... 

XVI. The Daring Heroes of the Pony Express 
AND the Overland Stage 

XVII. The Street-Preaching Hero of 'Forty- 
Nine," William Taylor .... 

XVIII. The Fearless Civic Hero of San Fran- 
cisco, James King of William 

XIX. The Eloquent Hero of Patriotism 
Thomas Starr King .... 

XX. The Heroic Hunter of Grizzly Bears 
James Capen Adams .... 

XXL The Mail-Carrying Hero of the Snow- 
Crowned Sierras, Snow-Shoe Thomp- 
son 

XXII. The Mountain-Climbing Heroes of the 
Sierras, Clarence King and Richard 
Cotter 

XXIII. The Engineering Hero of the Sierras, 

Theodore D. Judah .... 

XXIV. The Building Heroes of the Cen- 

tral Pacific, Huntington, Stanford, 
Crocker and Hopkins .... 

XXV. The Brilliant Hero of Intellect, 
Stephen J. Field 

XXVI. The Saving Hero of Philanthropy, 
James Lick 

XXVII. The Tenacious Hero of the Comstock, 
Adolph Sutro 

XXVIII. The Far Sighted Hero of the Orange 
Colony, John Wesley North 

XXIX. The Outspoken Hero of the Public 
Service, J. W. Powell 



109 
123 

U7 
154 
171 

180 

195 

207 



231 

245 
261 

273 
292 

309 



CONTENTS 



XV 11 



CHAPTEK PAGB 

XXX. The Practical Hero of Invention, 

Andrew Smith Hallidie . . . Z^l 

XXXI. The Intrepid Heroes of a Gentle 
Science, John Gill Lemmon and Sara 
Plummer Lemmon 322 

XXXII. The Studious Hero of the Mountains, 

John Muir 33^ » 

XXXIII. The Tender Heroine of Indian Priend- 

ship, Helen Hunt Jackson . . 361 

XXXIV. The Persistent Hero of a Great His- 

tory, Hubert Howe Bancroft . 374 

XXXV. The Patient Hero of Agriculture, 

Luther Burbank 385 

XXXVI. The Sympathetic Hero of Land Reform, 

Henry George A-oi 

XXXVII. The Inventive Hero of Mount Lowe, 

Thaddeus S. C. Lowe . . . 4^7 

XXXVIII. The Reclamation Heroes of the Colo- 
rado Desert, Wozencraft, Rockwood 
AND Chaffey 437 

XXXIX. The Poet Hero for Humanity, Edwin 

Markham 451 

XL. The Honest Hero of the Free Harbor, 

Stephen M. White .... 459 

XLI. The Executive Hero of Irrigation, 

William Ellsworth Smythe . . 465 

XLII. The Pioneer Heroes of California. An 

Address by Judge David Belden . 482 

XLIII. Bibliography 494 

Index 503 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Staging in 1849, in the Sierras of California Frontispiece i^' 



FACING 
PAGE 



On the Colorado River which Alarfon Ascended . . 4 

Mud Volcanoes in the Colorado Desert .... 4 

A Chemehuevi mother and child 5 

A Chemehuevi basket maker 5 

Statue of Father Junipero Serra, Golden Gate Park, 

San Francisco 22 

Junipero Serra 23 

Indians on the Colorado Desert; descendants of one 

of the tribes met by MeJchior Diaz .... 36 
The Colorado River near vphere Diaz had his fight vpith 

the Indians 37 

A group of California Indians, descendants of those 

missionized by Padre Serra and his co-workers 37 

A Chemehuevi Madonna 50 

Chemehuevi maidens making mesquite drink . . 50 

On the road that Serra traveled coming up to San Diego 

from 'La Paz 51 

The fort at Tubac, Arizona, from which De Anza 

brought some of his soldiers 51 

A Yuma Indian, descendant of one of those who guided 

Juan Bautista de Anza 64 

An Indian camp near Tumacacori 65 

The mission of Tumacacori, from which place De Anza 

marched to the founding of San Francisco ... 80 



XX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 
PAGE 

A Mohave mother and child 81 

Yuma Indian water carrier 81 

The Rancho Chico, 1854, John Bidwell's home . . 96 

John Bidwell's first cattle brand 96 

Juan Bautista de Anza's house, Tubac, Arizona . . 97 
Donner Party memorial cross, near Donner Lake, Cal- 
ifornia 97 

Donner Lake, California 1 12 

General View of the Colorado Desert . . .112 

A Glimpse of the slope of Death Valley, the Funeral 

Mountains in the distance 113 

A bucking horse in the heart of the Colorado Desert 126 

Ten miles south of Furnace Creek, Death Valley . . 126 

Alexander Majors 127 

William Taylor 144 

Virginia Reed Murphy 144 

San Francisco in 1849, from the head of Clay Street 145 
Pioneers lined up for their mail at the Post Office, corner 

of Pike and Clay Streets, San Francisco, in 1849 . 145 

Thomas Starr King 172 

John Bidwell. Taken in 1880 172 

James Capen Adams 173 

John A. Thompson 196 

Snow shed in the Sierras 197 

Theodore D. Judah 212 

The High Sierra, California, crossed by the Central 

Pacific Railway 213 

The High Sierras surveyed by Theodore Judah . . 213 

The Palisades of the Humboldt River, Nevada, through 

which the Central Pacific Railway runs . . . 226 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xxi 



FACING 
PAGE 



Snow plow on the Central Pacific Railway, in the High 

Sierras 227 

" Driving the last spike " 242 

James Lick 243 

The Summit, Lick Observatory, Mt. Hamilton, Cali- 
fornia 268 

Main Building, Lick Observatory, Mt. Hamilton, Cal. 268 
Thirty-six inch refractor. Lick Observatory, Mt. Hamil- 
ton, Cal 269 

Monument, City Hall Square, San Francisco . . 269 
One of the mines of Virginia City, Nevada, on the cele- 
brated Comstock Lode . . . . . . . 278 

Sutro Baths, looking east. May i, 1896 .... 279 

Adolph Sutro 288 

J. W. North 288 

Flower vases and main gate, Sutro Heights, San Fran- 
cisco 289 

Mission arches at the Glenwood Mission Inn, River- 
side, Cal • . . . . 294 

Cross dedicated to Fra Junipero Serra, Rubidoux 

Mountain, Huntington Park, Riverside, Cal. . . 295 
Parent Washington navel orange tree, court of the 

Glenwood Mission Inn, Riverside, Cal. . . . 304 

Orange Grove, Riverside, California .... 305 

John W. Powell 314 

J. G. Lemmon 315 

S. A. Plummer Lemmon 315 

John Muir and John Burroughs discussing animal 

sagacity 330 

Yosemite Valley, from Artist's Point, California . . 331 

John Muir, resting by the side of a High Sierra lakelet 350 



xxli LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 
PAGE 



Hubert Howe Bancroft's Historical Library, San Fran- 

•,cisco 351 

Hubert Howe Bancroft 374 

Luther Burbank 374 

Luther Burbank's Birthplace, Lancaster, Mass. , . 375 

Luther Burbank's Old Home, Santa Rosa, Cal. . . 392 
Luther Burbank's New Home, side view, Santa Rosa, 

Cal 392 

Professor and Mrs. T. S. C. Lowe 393 

The Great Incline on the Mount Lowe Railway . . 432 
Circular Bridge on the Mount Lowe Railway overlooking 

Pasadena and the San Gabriel Valley .... 433 

Alpine Tavern, Mount Lowe 446 

A camp of ditch-makers in Imperial Valley, 1901 . . 447 

Egyptian Corn, Imperial Valley, in 1907 . . . 447 

Edwin Markham 452 

A " playa " or bed of a dry lake in the Colorado Desert 453 

A beet field in Imperial Valley, 1907 .... 453 
Edwin Markham at his cottage, where he wrote " The 

Man with the Hoe," Oakland, California . . . 460 
The wharves, interior of San Pedro Harbor, Los Angeles, 

Cal 461 

The Atlantic Fleet sailing into San Pedro Harbor, 

Los Angeles, Cal 464 

Combined harvester and thrasher on ranch of H. M. 

Kinney, Imperial Valley 465 

One of the irrigating ditches which have made the change 

in the Imperial Valley 465 

Judge David Belden 484 

William Ellsworth Smythe 484 



HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 



CHAPTER I 

THE DAUNTLESS HERO - EXPLORER, ALARCON 

TWO names are intimately associated with the 
discovery of the mouth of the Colorado River, 
which forms the boundary line between the southern 
portions of Arizona and California. These names are 
Ulloa and Alarfon. The stories of their respective 
voyages have often been told, yet the important differ- 
ence in the spirit of the two explorers Jhas not been 
emphasized as it should be. 

Fearful of losing his hard-earned power, Cortes, the 
conqueror of Mexico, desired to extend his explora- 
tions and incidentally his conquests. His successes 
had aroused the jealousy of several eminent men, 
among others, IMendoza, the Viceroy of New Spain, 
who was doing his best to surpass Cortes in achieve- 
ment. Accordingly, he equipped three vessels and 
sent them forth from Acapulco, Mexico, under the 
command of Francisco de Ulloa, with instructions to 
sail north, and take possession of all new lands dis- 



2 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

covered, for God and the King of Spain, During 
this voyage Ulloa discovered the Peninsula of Cali- 
fornia and the Gulf of California, which he named the 
Sea of Cortes. While at the head of this gulf he found, 
as he says: " the sea to run with so great a rage into 
the land that it was a thing much to be marvelled at ; 
and -v^-ith the like fury it returned back again with the 
ebb, during which time we found eleven fathom of 
water, and the flood and ebb continued from five to 
six hours." 

The following day, Ulloa and the ship's pilot went 
to the ship's top, and saw the land circling around 
to the west; and they speculated upon the cause 
of the ebb and flow of the day before. Lakes were sug- 
gested, and some one thought " that some great river 
there might be the cause thereof." 

Instead of exploring this inlet and finding out for 
himself, Ulloa was content to sail away south. He 
thus p^o^'ed himself either incompetent for the task 
that Cortes had given him, in that he did not realize the 
possible importance of following up the current ; afraid 
lest he might wreck his vessels; or too lazy to undertake 
what he knew might require hard work. 

It should need little or no comment to show that 
Ulloa was not possessed of the true spirit; that he was 
unworthy the high trust reposed in him. 

Now let us see the spirit in which Alargon accom- 
plished his task. He was ordered by the Viceroy 
Mendoza to sail northward with two vessels, and 
cooperate, as far as possible, with the great land ex- 
pedition of Coronado, which was being sent out to 



THE EXPLORER, ALARgON 3 

the discovery of what we now know as Arizona and 
New Mexico. 

In due time he reached the same place described 
by Ulloa, where the great tide had courted investiga- 
tion. At once he decided that, as he wrote afterward, 
" even though I had known I should have lost the 
ships," he would discover the secret of the Gulf. Ac- 
cordingly boats were lowered and sent ahead to find a 
channel, and the ships were taken up until the current 
was so strong and the shoals so numerous that all 
three vessels went aground, and were placed in great 
danger. But even this did not daunt Alarfon. The re- 
turn of the tide freed the vessels from the sands, and 
they were anchored in a place of safety. Then he 
prepared to ascend the river in two of his small boats. 
Here was a true explorer. Bold yet cautious, deter- 
mined yet not reckless, full of foresight yet resolute 
and daring! He prepared for hostile Indians and 
hardships of every conceivable kind, and, thus equipped, 
pushed forward up the river for the great distance of 
eighty-five leagues. 

It is needless for our purpose to study his ad\'entures 
further. His name and memory will always be hon- 
ored by true Californians as the man who dared, 
and who, as the result of his daring, is entitled to the 
honor of being called " the discoverer of the Colorado 
River." 



CHAPTER II 

THE WATCHFUL HERO-COMMANDER, MELCHIOR DIAZ 

ANOTHER member of the Viceroy's exploring 
party was Melchior Diaz, who had gone with 
Coronado into the heart of the country. After Coronado 
had reached his destination, he despatched Diaz across 
country to find Alarfon. In due time Diaz reached 
the Colorado River, followed it down to the Gulf, 
found that Alarfon had sailed, and then returned up 
the river to see if any messages had been left by the 
latter, intending finally to report to Coronado at 
Cibola. He had several interesting experiences, but 
the one which I wish were better known is as follows: 

While he was on his way up the river, he wished to 
cross from the Arizona to the California side. He had 
but twenty-five men and here is the way the historian 
Castafieda tells the story: 

" After they had gone five or six days, it seemed to 
them as if they could cross on rafts. For this purpose 
they called together a large number of the natives, who 
were waiting for a favorable opportunity to make an 
attack on our men, and when they saw that the strangers 
wanted to cross, they helped make the rafts with all 
zeal and diligence, so as to catch them in this way on 
the water and drown them, or else divide them so that 
they could not help one another. While the rafts were 





■^;>^»s^^^-^m:fs^ 












,W?4; 



jM' 




ON THE COLORADO RIVER WHICH Al.ARCON ASCENDED. 



Page 3 




MUD VOLCANOES IN THE COLORADO DESERT. DIAZ LANDED 
NEAR HERE. 



Page i 





"^"^^^IM 


^^^p\ 


J^^- ^^ 


^^■r ^ 


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MELCHIOR DIAZ 5 

being made, a soldier, who had been out around the 
camp, saw a large number of armed men go across to 
a mountain, where they were waiting till the soldiers 
should cross the river. He reported this, and an Indian 
was quietly shut up, in order to fmd out the truth , . . and 
he told all the arrangements that had been made. These 
were, that when our men were crossing and part of 
them had got over and part were on the river and part 
were waiting to cross, those who were on the rafts 
should drown those they were taking across and the 
rest of their force should make an attack on both 
sides of the river. If they had had as much discretion 
and courage as they had had strength and power, the 
attempt would have succeeded. 

" When he knew their plan, the captain had the 
Indian who had confessed the affair killed secretly, 
and that night he was thrown into the river with a 
weight, so that the Indians would not suspect that 
they were found out. The next day they noticed that 
our men suspected them, and so they made an attack, 
shooting showers of arrows, but when the horses began 
to catch up with them and the lances wounded them 
without mercy and the musketeers likewise made good 
shots, they had to leave the plain and take to the moun- 
tain, until not a man of them was to be seen. The 
force then came back and crossed all right, the Indian 
allies and the Spaniards going across on the rafts and 
the horses swimming alongside the rafts." 

Diaz showed himself a watchful and a prudent cap- 
tain. He knew he was in a place of danger, and this 
made him unusually cautious, both for himself and his 



6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

men. He was alert and thoughtful, and there is little 
doubt that the soldier who went around the camp and 
discovered the large force of Indians on the other side, 
was sent out as a scout by him. The brave and cour- 
ageous man is not the man who is reckless and indiffer- 
ent, but the man who, knowing the dangers that sur- 
round him, is alert, cautious, watchful and prudent. 



CHAPTER III 

THE SELF-SACRIFICING, SELF-DISCIPLINING, PIONEER 
MISSIONARY- HERO, JUNIPERO SERRA 

TN these days of material progress, and with our whole 
-■■ nation regarding the acquisition of riches as the 
clearest proof of success, it seems to me that it is well 
for our youth to look closely into the lives of those men 
who constructed the foundations upon which our State 
is built. 

Serra was a very simple-hearted man, yet in three 
special realms he claims the reverent attention of the 
youth of the State of which he was the first and greatest 
of a large army of pioneers. 

Without entering into tedious details, it is well to 
recall that Serra was born in 1713, at Petra, in the 
Island of Majorca — one of the islands of the Mediter- 
ranean, under the control of the King of Spain. When 
he was seventeen he became a noxitiate of the Fran- 
ciscan Order, and when he took the final vows he 
assumed the name of Junipero, after the friend and 
companion of St. Francis of Assisi, who was the 
founder of the Order of Franciscans. 

In due time, he became a professor in one of the 
colleges and a Doctor of Divinity, He then began 
to preach, and the simple-minded fervor of so learned 
a man, combined with his clear-headed way of looking 



8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

at things, soon brought him great fame as a pulpit 
orator. He had the wonderful faculty of satisfying the 
educated and refined as well as the illiterate and 
vulgar. He reached rich and poor alike. As a teacher 
he was equally successful. The pathway to fame and 
honor was clearly open to him. AU he had to do was 
to continue as he had begun, and there was little he 
might not have attained. The Church of Rome has 
never been niggardly in its gifts to its able sons, and 
here was one who was worthy of her greatest gifts and 
highest honors. Yet he wilfully and cheerfully turned 
away from this glowing and alluring pathway, and 
begged to be sent away over a new, dark, and unknown 
road — the road to the missionary field among savages, 
where trials, dangers, difficulties, and possibly death 
awaited him. 

Serra dared to do the thing that appealed to the 
very highest in his nature. He dared to fling himself 
in absolute and perfect trust upon God. He had 
but one aim, — to serve God in blessing the savages to 
whom he asked to be sent. He dared to be free! 

The theology of Dante was a terrible reality to Serra. 
Only to such an absorption of belief was his work 
possible. Hell, the awful, material hell Dante so 
vividly and powerfully portrays, burning with flames 
of inconceivable torture forever and forever, with 
all its dire circles of horror for those who were unbe- 
lievers in the Christ he worshipped, yawTied, as he 
thought, before the feet of these untamed and rude 
natives. If they should be trained into a knowledge 
of the Church and its saving ordinances by an apostolic 



JUNIPERO SERRA 9 

guide, they could attain a new hereafter. Purgatory was 
open, and from thence, duly purged from their sin 
and ignorance, they might climb into the blessed regions 
of Paradise. Felicity untold, then, to that man who 
would brave their savagery, dare their treachery, love 
them even in their unlovableness, and thus lead them 
into the fold of the Church. 

Who should do it? Should he, Serra, with his soul 
athirst for great deeds for God, stand by, in order to 
listen to the applause of the civilized world as his words 
of burning eloquence pleased their cultured ears, 
and let some half-hearted, half- in-earnest priest go 
out to these degraded and needy savages? No! The 
greater their need and danger, the greater the necessity 
for speed, power, and earnestness in the one who should 
go to them. So, begging permission to leave the world 
and its vain applause, society and its caresses, civihza- 
tion and its luxurious comforts, casting all these things 
behind him, he gladly, joyfully set forth to do his 
chosen work as missionary. 

Such was his burning zeal that four of his close 
college companions were dominated by the same desire, 
and in due time these five — ■ Serra, Palou, Crespi, Verges, 
and Vincens — found themselves at Cadiz ready to 
ship for Vera Cruz, en route to the City of Mexico, 
where the College of San Fernando, the head house 
of the Franciscan Order in the new world, was 
located. 

On the voyage, Serra's boundless devotion and 
enthusiasm would not let him rest. He recited the 
mass daily, and then incited the sailors and others 



lo HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

to come and confess to him, and during long hours into 
the night he was engaged in this pious duty. 

Water was very scarce. Instead of complaining and 
making matters worse, he took the deprivation as a 
means of training, and naively remarked, when asked if 
he did not suffer from thirst : 

" Not specially, since I have found out the secret of 
not feeling thirsty, which is to eat Httle and talk less, 
so as not to waste the saliva." 

On their arrival at Vera Cruz, the officials had pro- 
vided saddle animals to carry the whole band of mis- 
sionaries over the three hundred mile stretch between 
that city and the City of Mexico. Few people would 
have seen in this anything but the most reasonable 
provision for their safe transportation. But Serra, 
with an eye absolutely single to the work he wished 
to do, and to which he had sacredly devoted his life, 
found in it an opportunity for self-discipline. He 
talked with his companion, Palou, persuaded him into 
agreement, and then begged his superiors to allow them 
to walk! When asked for his reasons, he explained 
that he was sent to labor among the most degraded and 
hostile of savage tribes, where hardship and severe labor 
would be his daily experience. He desired that every 
act of his life should be an act of conscious self-dis- 
cipline, preparation, training for everything that might 
be before him. 

Permission was given, and he and his colleague, 
without provisions or guide, started forth on that long 
tramp, determined to rely solely on Providence and the 
goodness of the people whom they should meet. 



JUNIPERO SERRA ii 

Of his life in Mexico prior to the time he was sent 
forth as the padre presidente of the Cahfornia missions 
there is not room here to speak. Sufifice it to say that 
he did his highest duty with earnest enthusiasm and 
fervent zeal. In a later work I hope fully to present the 
whole life and labors of Serra. 

When the Jesuits were expelled from the missions of 
Lower California in 1767 Serra was put in charge of 
the Franciscans who were sent in their places. Then 
the onward and upward move to the colonization and 
missionization of Upper California was decided upon 
and Serra was required to take charge of this work. 
Hence he became the first of the army of California 
pioneers to whom the Golden State never tires of doing 
honor. 

It is hard for us of to-day to realize what it meant for 
Serra to come to California. He left congenial work, 
devoted associates, loving friends, honor, applause, 
fame and advancement in the eyes of men, to bury 
himself in the unexplored wilds of a new coun- 
try. 

In his own land he had been one of the most popu- 
lar and appreciated preachers, honored and beloved. 
Here, the best that can be said is that he received the 
half adoring reverence of a part of the ignorant, 
though rudely affectionate aborigines to whom he came 
to minister, while the remainder bore him open hostility 
and bitter hatred. Even those who gave him their 
allegiance did not have the faintest comprehension 
of what he was endeavoring to do for them, and he had 
to humor their whims and caprices, their prejudices and 



12 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

superstitions, as a mother humors her petulant and 
self-willed child. 

Here was a pioneer, indeed, in that he had no home 
to come to. His home had to be in his own soul. In 
one sense, he had not where to lay his head, for there 
were no homes — in the way in which we use the 
word — in the land to which he came. There were 
only the rude, open, wicker-work or tule shacks of 
the aborigines, full of filth and vermin, and foul with 
the accumulated odors of the uncleanness of many sea- 
sons. The hard but hospitable bosom of Mother Earth 
became his pallet; like Jacob, he used a stone for a 
pillow; the open air was his coverlet, and the ineffable 
blue of the sky, pictured with moon, planets, stars and 
Milky Way, his ceiling; the howling of coyotes, the wild 
shriek of the panther, the growl of the grizzly, the hoot 
of the owl, the soft cooing of the mourning dove, and 
all the queer, soothing, startling, conflicting night 
sounds of trees, shrubs, insects, birds and beasts be- 
came the varied orchestra that sang him to sleep, or 
quickened his waking hours. 

He was a pioneer, indeed, in that he came to no 
settled community where materials for the erection of 
homes and churches were to be purchased. Everything 
was in the raw state. He had to hew the trees, saw 
the lumber, make the bricks, follow every shift and 
device that necessity became the mother of, ere he 
could begin to build, and then, — who was to build 
for him. He became his own architect, contractor and 
master-mason, and the human material he had to 
work with and train to do his bidding was even worse 



JUNIPERO SERRA 13 

than the raw physical material of which the structures 
were to be erected. Untrained, uncouth, undisci- 
plined savages, who, for centuries, had followed their 
own will, were practically all upon whom he could call. 
They were unused to control, impatient of restraint, 
incompetent to use their hands and eyes in strange 
labor, unable to see the necessity for care in doing 
what they were told to do, shiftless, unreliable and 
crafty in escaping from work they disliked. It is not 
easy for the ordinary man to imagine the sublime and 
exalted faith, the fearless and urgeful courage, the 
tireless and undaunted energy that could' undertake 
the building of such majestic missions under these 
disadvantageous conditions. And it must be remem- 
bered that Serra and his coadjutors did not come to a 
people who were in sympathy with his beliefs, his 
faith, his Church. With even a small band of believing 
adherents to rely upon, the fight would not have been 
so hard, but he had to instruct, convert, win his people 
while they were working for him, or even before they 
would begin to work, and in either case this added a 
gigantic obstacle to anything like rapid progress. 

To make even nominal Christians of these conserva- 
tive and superstitious Indians was in itself a great 
achievement, but to do it, and at the same time lead 
them to perform steady labor and become reliable 
workmen in the face of their dislike to confining work 
and teach them obedience and submission to restraint, 
was a task requiring genius and tact of a very high 
order. Such genius and tact Serra must have possessed, 
for he achieved the results, and not, as many believe, by 



14 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

sheer force of arms and the exercise of miHtary control. 
It is true that he had a small band of soldiers as escort 
and guard, but what was such a handful compared 
with the thousands of brave, fearless and warlike 
aborigines, had they been driven by cruel treatment 
to open hostility and defiance of an authority they had 
not yet learned to fear? 

Brave is that pioneer who goes into a new land where 
there are no corn-fields, no orchards, no gardens; 
where one must carry with him the seeds to plant for 
food, and wait until after the clearing, the plowing, the 
sowing, for the coming of the harvest. 

This bravery was Serra's, for he and his co-workers 
took so little food with them that in their first year at 
San Diego the missionaries would have starved, had 
it not been for the hospitality and generosity of the 
Indians, who gave freely of their rude provisions 
to the strangers who had come to live among 
them. 

Herds of cattle, sheep and horses there were none; 
stores of supplies and manufactories were unknow^n. 
There were no roads, no means of conveyance. Nothing 
was provided. Every article needed had to be brought 
up that long, weary desert and mountainous peninsula, 
or by sea, or over the Arizona and Colorado Deserts, 
or else it must be created on the spot. These, then, 
were the conditions under which Serra began and 
carried on his labors. For years he journeyed, on foot, 
up and down the coast from San Diego to San Fran- 
cisco, for the rules of his Order required him to walk 
when possible. Several times he traveled, either by 



JUNIPERO SERRA 15 

sea or land, back and forth to confer with the State 
and Church officials in Mexico. 

In view of these facts, the work of Serra becomes 
nothing less than marvelous. He lived to see ten 
missions established, — San Diego, San Carlos, San 
Antonio de Padua, San Gabriel, San Luis Obispo, 
San Francisco de Asis, San Juan Capistrano, Santa 
Clara, San Buenaventura and Santa Barbara, as well 
as the presidios of San Diego, Monterey, San Francisco 
and Santa Barbara. He died and was buried in the 
mission of San Carlos Carmelo, where his ashes still 
rest,. 



CHAPTER TV 

THE INDEFATIGABLE HERO, CAPTAIN DE ANZA 

"\X /"HEN President McKinley wished to send a 
' message to General Garcia of the Cuban forces, 
the question arose as to who could be found to under- 
take the task. No one knew exactly where Garcia 
was; he was surrounded by Spaniards who sought his 
life, and by Cubans who were jealously guarding it. 
It was necessary that the message be sent secretly, 
for the United States did not wish to inform Spain 
beforehand that she had decided to take up the cause 
of Cuba. 

A man, however, was found in Lieutenant Rowan, 
who asked no questions, raised no objections, but, 
with a glint in his eye and determination in his voice, 
when asked if he thought he could reach Garcia, re- 
plied, "I think so! I'll try!" The world knows of 
his success, 

Juan Bautista de Anza was a man of the Rowan 
type, and every true Calif ornian should know all about 
his two historic trips from Northern Mexico to San 
Francisco. 

When the early Franciscan missions and the first 
presidios (San Diego and Monterey) were established 
in California, the Spanish officials decided that it would 
be an advantage to have a means of direct communica- 



CAPTAIN DE ANZA 17 

tion overland from Northern Mexico to Alta or Upper 
California. Hitherto all travel to California had been 
either by sea, or across the Gulf and then up the pen- 
insula, — a long, wearisome journey, even after the 
Gulf had been crossed. It was also decided to establish 
missions about midway between Sonora and San Ga- 
briel, on the Colorado River, thus affording travelers 
a place where they could rest and recuperate. 

The responsibility of finding this road was placed 
upon Captain de Anza, a brave and honorable soldier, 
whose father was also an officer of repute. At this 
time he was the commander of the presidio of Tubac, 
in Sonora, a little settlement now on the United States 
side of the Mexican border, and some fifty miles south 
of Tucson. 

The route to be traversed was over the inhospitable 
desert region to the Gila River, down its course to its 
junction with the Colorado River, and thence over an- 
other and unknown desert to the Mission San Gabriel. 

It is interesting to recall the fact that a quantity of 
" red tape " had to be gone through in those days before 
Captain de Anza could start upon his journey. Padre 
Serra first petitioned the Viceroy of Mexico and the 
King of Spain; the petition was favorably endorsed by 
the former, and then duly considered by the king and 
his Council at Madrid, granted, and a license issued, 
allowing and authorizing the expedition. This was 
probably in September of the year 1773. 

With two priests, a dozen men and twenty soldiers, De 
Anza was prepared to start, when he received a fore- 
taste of what he might expect on his trip. The Apache 



i8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Indians made a raid on his camp, killed some of his 
men and stole a number of his horses. 

Now a brave man does not allow danger to deter 
him from his purposes, but it makes him cautious and 
careful. De Anza knew that he was liable to attack 
all the way along from these murderous Apaches, who 
hated the sight of the white men. His route lay over a 
hot and sandy desert, that wearies the people of to-day 
when they speed over it in an elegant Pullman car, 
sheltered from all danger, and provided with every 
luxury. The piercing rays of the sun, scant and vile 
water, little or no forage for horses, no food for human 
beings, wild animals and poisonous reptiles, mile after 
mile of cruel cactus, acres of blinding alkali, whirlwinds 
of hot sand, fearful heat at noonday and, at times, 
fearful cold at midnight, — these were some of the 
obstacles and terrors he knew he would have to meet 
and overcome. 

Yet, without waiting for reinforcements, his handful 
of soldiers made nervous and fearful by the sudden 
death of their close companions, he struck out over 
the pathless desert, laughing at fierce heat, mocking 
mirage, blinding alkali, choking sand-laden air, in the 
strong conviction that the spirit of a man overcomes 
everything that can come against him, even to the Gates 
of Death, if he keeps his soul clean and his hands pure. 
Accompanying the party were sixty-five cattle and 
one hundred and forty horses for the use of the officials 
and missions in California. 

Before they reached the Colorado River, they v/ere 
met by a Papago Indian, who warned them that some 



CAPTAIN DE ANZA 19 

of the Yumas were decidedly unfriendly and had 
threatened to " loot the whole outfit." But when the 
Yumas were finally reached, Palma, their chief, who 
was well known to one of the padres of the party, 
welcomed them and gave every assurance of hospi- 
tality and trustworthiness. 

From now on the journey became more arduous 
than before. The scarcity of pasture and water for the 
animals rendered it impossible to take them along, 
so they were left in charge of a few men and the Indian, 
Palma, while the rest faced the perils of the Colorado 
Desert. It took them twenty days to reach the newly- 
founded Mission of San Gabriel, with their clothing 
in tatters, and out of supplies of every kind. Here the 
party became somewhat divided, one of the padres with 
some of the men going to San Diego, the other and 
more men back to the Yumas, while De Anza, with but 
six men, hurried on to Monterey and almost immedi- 
ately returned to San Gabriel. In eight days more he 
was with the padre at the Colorado River, and fifteen 
days later he was back at his starting-point, his own 
presidio of Tubac. 

The whole of this several-hundred- mile journey, 
it must be remembered, was made on horseback, and 
everything the party needed had to be taken along 
on pack-animals. 

When I hear people speaking of being " exhausted " 
by a five hundred, or a thousand, mile ride on the cars, 
where every comfort is provided and all hardships 
are eliminated; when I see the young men of to-day 
riding a few blocks on the street car to avoid the exer- 



20 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

tion of walking, and see them taking " bracers " to 
overcome the effects of some shght labor that should 
be a pleasure to a healthful person, I wish that we 
might have a few Captain de Anzas to set a fresh 
example of tireless energy, total disregard of hardships, 
and ready accomplishment of the severest duties. 

But De Anza's first trip was merely to ascertain if 
a route could be found. He had proven that it was 
feasible, and was therefore empowered to gather colo- 
nists and recruit soldiers for a settlement and presidio 
to be established on the newly discovered bay of San 
Francisco. His party started out just one year before 
the signing of the Declaration of Independence, — in 
the year 1775. Doubtless on account of the success 
of his first trip, De Anza had been promoted from 
captain to lieutenant-colonel. Three priests started 
with the expedition, two of whom left diaries, from 
which most of our details of the trip are gleaned. The 
party was composed of four officers besides the lieuten- 
ant-colonel, three priests, eighteen veteran soldiers, 
twenty recruits, twenty-nine wives of soldiers, and one 
hundred and thirty-six persons of both sexes — the 
colonists. Then there were twenty muleteers for the 
three pack-trains, seven servants and three Indians, 
making a grand total of two hundred and forty persons. 
There were six hundred and ninety five mules and 
horses, and three hundred and fifty-five cattle. 

Imagine this expedition starting out and journeying 
day by day. Dr. Coues, the translator of Padre Garcds' 
diary, tells of the daily order : 

" At the proper hour in the morning the order was 



CAPTAIN DE ANZA 21 

given to round up the horses and mules, the soldiers and 
servants going for the horses and the packers for the 
mules. While these people were packing and saddling, 
Padre Font used to say mass, as there was plenty of 
time. As soon as the three pack-trains were ready 
to start, the commanding officer gave the order to 
mount — Vayon suhiendo! and they all mounted, 
forming a column in this wise: Four soldiers went 
ahead as scouts. De Anza led off with the ^•anguard. 
Font came next, and after him came men, women, and 
children, escorted by soldiers; then the lieutenant 
brought up the rear-guard. Behind these followed the 
three pack-trains, with the loose horses, and last of all 
the beef-herd. As soon as they started. Font would 
strike up a hymn, the Alabado, to which all the people 
responded. The column, as may be easily seen, was a 
very long one, even when well closed up. On making 
camp, when they had dismounted, the lieutenant came 
to report to the commanding officer whether they were 
all up, or any had been left behind, and receive his 
orders. At night the people recited their beads, each 
family by itself, and finished by singing the Alabado 
or Salve, or something of that sort, every one for 
himself, and Font remarks that the variety had a 
very pleasing effect. There were so many people 
that when they encamped it looked like a regular 
settlement, with the shelters that the soldiers made 
with their cloaks and blankets on boughs, and with 
the thirteen tents of the company — nine for the 
soldiers and the others for the officers and com- 
mandante." 



22 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

It was a wonderful trip over the desert, and it re- 
quired no little courage, leadership and knowledge to 
get such a party over the sandy wastes. It was mid- 
winter, and the cold was intense, for, in marked con- 
trast to De Anza's former trip, they were met day after 
day with storms of hail, snow and rain. And when it is 
cold on the desert, it seems colder than anywhere else. 
The thinned blood feels it more, and the absence of 
moisture makes the heat radiation so rapid that it is 
not surprising to read in De Anza's diary that the people 
suffered cruelly. There was much sickness but no 
fatalities. About a hundred head of stock were lost, 
as water was so scarce that the fevered animals could 
not be restrained from breaking away in search of it. 
The party often had to be divided, so that all should 
not reach the water-holes, with their poor and scant 
supply, at the same time. Wells were dug in many 
places. The scarcity of feed for the animals was another 
source of great discomfort. 

On reaching San Gabriel, they were delayed for a 
time by news of the uprising at San Diego, when the 
Indians murdered Padre Jayme, and De Anza himself 
went down to the scene of the trouble. It was not 
until February of 1776 that they started for the north. 
This was a weary journey, for the winter rains made 
the roads almost impassable, and even the women and 
children had to walk. Yet on the tenth of March they 
all arrived safely and happily at Monterey, where Serra 
himself was in waiting to congratulate and welcome 
them. 

Worry or overwork or something had upset De Anza, 




STATUE OF FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA, GOLDEN GATE PARK, SAN 
FRANCISCO. 

Page 7 




JUNIPERO SERRA. 

From the painting in the Hotel del Monte, Monterey, Cal., after the 
original painting in the City of Mexico. 

Page 7 



CAPTAIN DE ANZA 23 

and for a few days he was confined to his bed in Mon- 
terey; then, contrary to the advice of his physicians, 
he rode to San Francisco — for upon his decision largely 
depended the choice of the site where the San Francisco 
mission was to be established — explored the region 
pretty thoroughly, and finally chose the place where the 
old Dolores Mission now stands. It was not until 
September 17, however, that the presidio was estab- 
lished, and the mission on October 9. But, his work 
done, De Anza delayed not an hour. He returned 
south, reported to Governor Rivera, and on the second 
of May started back for Sonora, where he safely ar- 
rived on the eighteenth day of June. 



CHAPTER V 

THE FAITHFUL HERO, PADRE SARRfA 

'T^^HE romance of the Missions has never been 
-■■ written. Possibly, as the years go by, the writers 
of fiction will see more and more the possibilities af- 
forded by the lives of the old padres, the play of wit 
between the intellectual and educated Spaniards and 
the keen, shrewd, uneducated Indians, the solitude and 
isolation of the padres' lives, the temptations of the 
flesh, all the passion and emotion, the joy and sorrow 
that compass the lives of human beings whether rude 
and illiterate or refined and sensitive, out of which to 
weave their stories of '' fiction more true than life." 
Helen Hunt Jackson in Ramona, preceded by Bret 
Harte in several of his short stories, Mary Austin in 
Isidro, Marah Ellis Ryan in The Soul of Rafael, Con- 
stance Goddard Du Bois in^ Soul m Bronze, and Mrs. 
A. S. C. Forbes in her Mission Tales in the Days of 
the Dons have all done good work in this line, but the 
days to come vdll see much more A'VTitten on the same 
subject. When a library of books shall have been 
accumulated, each one dealing with this epoch of 
California life, there will be not one containing more real 
pathos, real power than the simple truth told about 
Padre Francisco Vicente de Sarria, who died of starva- 
tion at the Mission Soledad in 1835. 



THE FAITHFUL HERO, SARRIA 25 

Sarria came to California in June, 1809, and in 
18 1 2 he was elected Comisario prejecto of the missions. 
By this office he was made superior to the president 
of the Missions in all temporal affairs, and was the 
delegate of the Franciscan Commissary General of 
the Mother House in the City of Mexico. He entered 
into this work with quiet dignity and a solemn recog- 
nition of the responsibilities of the office. In 1813 
he addressed a letter to all the missionaries of the 
State, which in every way is a model. In spirit it 
breathes true devotion and anxiety for the care of the 
souls of both Indians and Spaniards; in composition 
it is clear, forceful and well expressed, and in hand- 
writing it is regular and beautiful. A copy in his ovm 
hand is to be found in the archives at San Carlos Mis- 
sion, Monterey. In this letter he enjoined a strict 
compliance with the rules of St. Francis (the founder 
of the Order), and especially urged the padres to 
acquire the Indian language so as to be able to teach 
the catechism and give other religious instruction in the 
native tongue. He bade them not to forget their duties 
to the Spaniards, and alluded to the management of 
the temporal affairs as a duty which must not divert 
their attention from their more important spiritual 
obligations. 

Sarria lived during that very trying period in Mexican 
history when Mexico threw off the yoke of Spain and 
became, in 1821, an independent empire under Itur- 
bide. The new empire, however, did not last long, for in 
March, 1823, Iturbide was compelled to abdicate and 
flee the country, and on his surreptitious return in 



26 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

1824 was captured, tried, sentenced and shot. The 
country now became a republic, and California was 
made a province of the new federation. While the 
change of government practically affected California 
very little, all the officers and the missionaries were 
required to take oath that they would be loyal to the 
new powers. Padre Sarria was a Spaniard, full of 
love for his native country, conservative to a high 
degree, and, while a missionary in a foreign land 
which he sincerely accepted as his home so long as his 
superiors required him to do so, still regarded Spain 
as " home," and himself as one of its loyal sons. Hence 
it was impossible for him to swear allegiance to any 
foreign power, and especially when that power had 
come into existence through revolt to the Spain of his 
love and devotion. Again and again, year after year, 
he was called upon to " swear," and each time, calmly 
yet positively, he gave the same reply. He was so 
beloved by the Spanish people and soldiers as well as 
by the Indians, that the governors, one after another, 
felt it would be dangerous to punish him in any way, or 
to do as they were authorized to do, — namely, banish 
him or send him as a prisoner to Mexico, So, salving 
their official consciences by reporting the case with its 
difficulties to the Federal officials in Mexico, they did 
nothing. Thus Sola, Arguello and Echeandia in turn 
were required to place him under arrest, and send him 
to Mexico, yet each evaded the orders; and while, 
ostensibly, he was under arrest for several years, and 
liable to be exiled at any moment — for the order was 
thrice renewed — he lived on viith his beloved Indians, 



THE FAITHFUL HERO, SARRIA 27 

calmly and quietly discharging his duties, and paying 
no attention to the excitement of politics which seemed 
of so great importance to others. 

Gleeson, the historian, thus tells the story of Padre 
Sarria's last days: 

" Soledad, of which Padre Sarria was pastor, was 
once a flourishing Christian settlement, possessing its 
hundreds of converts and thousands of cattle. Want had 
never been known there from the time of its foundation 
up to the moment of confiscation. Immediately upon 
the change, however, so great was the plunder and 
devastation of everything belonging to the Mission 
that the Father who remained at his post with a few of 
the Indians was unable to obtain the ordinary neces- 
saries of life. Yet, reduced as he was to the greatest 
extremity, he would not abandon the remnant of his 
flock. For thirty years he had labored among them, 
and now, if necessary, he was ready to die in their 
behalf. Broken down by years and exhausted by 
hunger, one Sunday morning in August, the holy old 
man assembled in his little church the few converts that 
remained to him. It was the last time that he was to 
appear before these natives. Hardly had he com- 
menced the holy sacrifice of the mass when his strength 
completely failed him; he fell before the altar and 
expired in the arms of his people, for whom he had 
so zealously and earnestly labored. Noble and worthy 
death for a Spanish missionary priest! " 



CHAPTER VI 

THE UNTERRIFIED HERO-TRAPPER, JAMES O. PATTIE 

'nr^HERE are some men who are born adventurers 
-■- and explorers. The quiet, calm, uneventful life 
of ordinary dwellers in towns and villages is distasteful 
to them. They are men of the open, of activity, of 
resolution, of intrepidity, of courage, — men to whom 
adventure is as the breath of their nostrils. To keep 
such men in the monotony of civilized existence is 
impossible. They are destined to be wanderers, and, 
in the past, had their faculties been trained and they 
themselves encouraged to make due reports of their 
wanderings, the world at large might have received 
much benefit from the knowledge they could have 
communicated. Fortunately, here and there, a man 
with a literary turn of mind did wTite and publish the 
account of his travels; in other cases, literary men 
transcribed and published them. One of the most 
interesting of such accounts ever published in the 
United States, dealing (amongst other regions) with 
California, is that of James O. Pattie, a trapper of 
Kentucky, who for six years journeyed from St. Louis 
across the plains into New Mexico and Upper and 
Lower California. He and his companions came dovm 
the Colorado River almost to the Gulf, then crossed the 
peninsula to two of the Jesuit Missions of Lower Call- 



JAMES O. PATTIE 29 

fornia, reached the Pacific, were taken as prisoners to 
San Diego, and there kept in prison for several months. 
Here his father died and was buried. Pattie was re- 
leased on his undertaking to vaccinate the Spaniards 
and Indians of California, — which he did, claiming 
to have inoculated in all twenty-three thousand five 
hundred persons. He finally returned to the United 
States by way of Mexico, 

To give a mere resume of Pattie's adventures would 
be impossible, but to show the spirit of the man, and 
to incite in the youth of California a desire to familiarize 
themselves with these interesting records, I propose 
to make a few extracts which serve as samples of the 
three hundred pages of which his Narrative is com- 
posed. To this man adventure was an every-day ex- 
perience; what to most men would be hardships un- 
endurable was his daily life. Almost indifferent to 
danger, yet watchful and cautious; full of energy and 
restlessness; wearied in a few days or weeks with the 
ordinary life of a settlement; of a buoyant disposition 
that speedily rebounded from disappointment, and 
that could never long be despondent no matter how 
serious the evils that had befallen him, his narrative 
bears the stamp of truth. Contemporary history in 
the main confirms his story, so that it may be accepted 
as truthful and genuine. 

Dr. R. G. Thwaites, in his Introduction to a recent 
edition of Pattie's Narrative, says : 

" For three generations the Patties had been fron- 
tiersmen. Restlessly they moved onward as the border 
advanced, always hovering upon the outskirts of civ- 



30 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

ilization, seeking to better their condition by taking 
up fresh lands in untilled places, and remorsely fight- 
ing the aborigines who disputed their invasion. They 
longed unceasingly for new adventures in the mysteri- 
ous West, that allured them with its strange fascination. 
Brave, honest, God-fearing, vigorous in mind and 
body, dependent on their own resources for food, and 
for defence chiefly dependent on the familiar rifle, the 
Patties belonged to that class of Americans who con- 
quered the wilderness, and yearly pushed the frontier 
westward." 

Pattie and his father joined a noted trapper, Bernard 
Pratte, of St. Louis, in an expedition composed of one 
hundred and sixteen persons. The father was made 
military commander of the caravan, which journeyed 
across the plains and mountains into New Mexico. 

" Pattie was surprised at the primitive life and cus- 
toms of the inhabitants of New Mexico, of which in 
a few unadorned sentences he gives us a vivid picture. 
Passing on to Santa Fe, the ancient capital, our ad- 
venturers were just in time to join a primitive expedi- 
tion against a hostile band of Indians, wherein the 
junior Pattie had the good fortune to rescue from 
the hands of the savages a charming young Spanish 
maiden, daughter of a former governor of the province. 
The gratitude of the fair captive and of her father was 
profoundly expressed, and their friendship proved of 
lasting value to the gallant narrator." 

Trapping on the Gila River, fighting Indians, ad- 
ventures with bears, a visit to the copper mines at 
Santa Rita, and the return to Santa F6 occupied five 



JAMES O. PATTIE 31 

months. The party then returned to the Gila to secure 
the furs they had buried there, only to find their cache 
rifled by the Indians. Again, at Santa Rita, when 
fighting Apaches, they made a treaty with them, and 
Pattie's father leased the noted mines which he suc- 
cessfully worked for some time. But the son was seized 
with " an irresistible desire to resume the employment 
of trapping," and wandered off again, with a few com- 
panions. For eight months he rambled down the Gila 
and Colorado Rivers, up to the Grand Canyon region, 
thence over the mountains to the Yellowstone, return- 
ing to Santa Fe and Santa Rita. After three days* 
rest, he took another trip into Mexico, and the fol- 
lowing spring, his father having been compelled to give 
up his mine, owing to the treachery and embezzlement 
of a trusted employe, another expedition was started, 
which led him down the Gila and Colorado and into 
California, as I have before related. 

To the Californian, the most interesting portion of 
the narrative is that which deals with his reception in 
California, and his report of the conditions he found 
and events that transpired. " According to his account, 
he and his companions were at first treated with severity, 
being imprisoned at San Diego for lack of passports, 
and there detained for many months. The elder 
Pattie died in his cell, without being permitted to see 
the son for whose presence he had piteously pleaded in 
his latest hours. Young Pattie's hatred for the Mexican 
governor (Echeandia) was not urmatural; but the 
consequent bitterness of expression quite distorts his 
narrative." The people in general treated him with 



32 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

kindness, which he gratefully acknowledges, but the 
suspicion of the governor, the action of the padres at 
the mission, and the final refusal to pay him for his 
work done in vaccinating so many people unless he 
would settle in the country and become a Catholic, 
aroused his resentment to the highest degree. Upon 
leaving California, he thus reflects: 

" Those who traverse it (the CaUfornia coast) , . . 
must be constantly excited to wonder and praise. 
It is no less remarkable for uniting the advantages 
of healthfulness, a good soil, a temperate climate, 
and yet one of exceeding mildness, a happy mixture 
of level and elevated ground, and vicinity to the sea." 

Even in those days, we see, men could not help being 
" boosters " for California. From the plethora of 
interesting matter Pattie gives, it is hard to select ex- 
tracts. Every page is interesting. Here is a naive 
story of a bear-shooting near the Gila River: "We 
passed a cave at the foot of the cliffs. At its mouth 
I remarked, that the bushes were beaten down, as 
though some animal had been browsing upon them. 
I was aware that a bear had entered the cave. We 
collected some pine knots, split them with our toma- 
hawks, and kindled torches with which I proposed 
to my companion that we should enter the cave to- 
gether and shoot the bear. He gave me a decided 
refusal, notwithstanding I reminded him, that I had, 
more than once, stood by him in a similar adventure; 
and notwithstanding I made him sensible that a bear 
in a den is by no means so formidable as when ranging 
freely in the woods. Finding it impossible to prevail 



JAMES O. PATTIE 33 

on him to accompany me, I lashed my torch to a stick, 
and placed it parallel with the gun barrel, so as that 
I could see the sights on it, and entered the cave. I 
advanced cautiously onw^ard about twenty yards, seeing 
nothing. On a sudden the bear reared himself erect 
within seven feet of me, and began to growl, and gnash 
his teeth. I levelled my gun and shot him between the 
eyes, and began to retreat. Whatever light it may 
tlirow upon my courage, I admit, that I was in such a 
hurry, as to stumble, and extinguish my light. The 
growling and struggling of the bear did not at all con- 
tribute to allay my apprehensions. On the contrary, 
I was in such haste to get out of the dark place, thinking 
the bear just at my heels, that I fell several times on 
the rocks, by which I cut my limbs, and lost my gun. 
When I reached the light, my companion declared, and 
I can believe it, that I was as pale as a corpse. It was 
some time before I could summon sufficient courage to 
re-enter the cavern for my gun. But having re-kindled 
my light, and borrowed my companion's gun, I en- 
tered the cavern again, advanced and listened. All was 
silent, and I advanced still further, and found my gun, 
near where I had shot the bear. Here again I paused 
and listened. I then advanced onward a few strides, 
where to my great joy I found the animal dead. I re- 
turned, and brought my companion in with me. We 
attempted to drag the carcass from the den, but so 
great was the size, that we found ourselves wholly un- 
able. We went out, found our horses, and returned to 
camp for assistance. My father severely reprimanded 
me for venturing to attack such a dangerous animal in 



34 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

its den, when the failure to kill it outright by the first 
shot, would have been sure to be followed by my death. 

" Four of us were dispatched to the den. We were 
soon enabled to drag the bear to the light, and by the 
aid of our beast to take it to camp. It was both the 
largest and the whitest bear I ever saw. The best 
proof, I can give, of the size and fatness is, that we 
extracted ten gallons of oil from it. The meat we dried, 
and put the oil in a trough, which we secured in a 
deep crevice of a cliff, beyond the reach of animals of 
prey. We were sensible that it would prove a treasure 
to us on our return." 

Here is the recital of an experience with the Mohaves, 
who live on the banks of the Colorado: 

" We raised a fortification round our camp every 
night, until we considered ourselves out of their reach. 
This evening we erected no breast-work, placed no 
other guard than one person to watch our horses, and 
threw ourselves in careless security round our fires. 
We had taken very little rest for four nights, and being 
exceedingly drowsy, we had scarcely laid ourselves 
down, before we were sound asleep. The Indians 
had still followed us, too far off to be seen by day, but 
had probably surveyed our camp at night. At about 
eleven o'clock this night, they poured upon us a shower 
of arrows, by which they killed two men, and wounded 
two more; and what was most provoking, fled so 
rapidly that we could not even give them a round. One 
of the slain was in bed with me. My own hunting 
shirt had two arrows in it, and my blanket was pinned 
fast to the ground with arrows. There were sixteen 



JAMES O. PATTIE 35 

arrows discharged into my bed. We extinguished our 
fires, and it may easily be imagined, we slept no more 
that night. 

" In the morning, eighteen of us started in pursuit 
of them, leaving the rest of the company to keep camp 
and bury our dead. We soon came upon their trail, 
and reached them late in the evening. They were 
encamped, and making their supper from the body of a 
horse. They got sight of us before we were within 
shooting distance, and fled. W^e put spurs to our horses, 
and overtook them just as they were entering a thicket. 
Having every advantage, we killed a greater part of 
them, it being a division of the band that had attacked 
us. . . . We then returned to our company, who had 
each received sufficient warning not to encamp in 
the territories of hostile Indians without raising a 
breast-work round the camp." 

That Pattie's perilous life was not a singular one 
is evidenced by a reference he makes to the fate of 
the one hundred and sixteen companions, with whom 
he originally started from Santa Fe. He met with 
some of them once in New Mexico, and inquired what 
had become of the others: 

" Some had died by lingering diseases, and others 
by the fatal ball or arrow, so that out of one hundred 
and sixteen men, who came from the United States in 
1824, there were not more than sixteen alive. Most 
of the fallen were as true men, and as brave as ever 
poised a rifle, and yet in these remote and foreign 
deserts found not even the benefit of a grave, but left 
their bodies to be torn by the wild beasts, or mangled 



36 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

by the Indians. When I heard the sad roll of the dead 
called over, and thought how often I had been in 
equal danger, I felt grateful to my Almighty Bene- 
factor, that I was alive and in health. A strong per- 
ception of the danger of such courses as mine, as 
shown by the death of these men, came over my mind, 
and I made a kind of resolution, that I would return 
to my home, and never venture into the woods again." 

The continuation of his narrative is proof that he 
did not keep to his resolution. Here is an experience 
he had mth some Yumas who led him to tramp over 
the desert to the peninsula missions. 

" At our encampment upwards of two hundred of 
them swam over the river and visited us, all appar- 
ently friendly. We allowed but a few to approach our 
camp at a time, and they were obliged to lay aside 
their arms. In the midst of these multitudes of fierce, 
naked, swarthy savages, eight of us seemed no more 
than a little patch of snow on the side of one of their 
black mountains. We were perfectly aware how 
critical was our position, and determined to intermit 
no prudence or caution. 

" To interpose as great a distance as possible be- 
tween them and us, we marched that evening sixteen 
miles, and encamped on the banks of the river. The 
place of encampment was a prairie, and we drove 
stakes fast in the earth, to which we tied our horses in 
the midst of green grass, as high as a man's head, 
and within ten feet of our own fire. Unhappily we had 
arrived too late to make a pen for our horses, or a 
breast- work for ourselves. The sky was gloomy. 




Gco>i;c Wharton James, Photo. 

THE COLORADO l.IVER NEAR WHERE DIAZ HAD HIS FIGHT WITH 



THE INDIANS. 



Page i 




George IVharton James, Photo. 

A GROUP OF CALIFORNIA INDIANS, DESCENDANTS OF THOSE 



MISSIONIZED BY PADRE SERRA AND HIS CO-WORKERS. 



Page 13 



JAMES O. PATTIE 37 

Night and storm were settling upon us, and it was too 
late to complete these important arrangements. In a 
short time the storm poured upon us, and the night 
became so dark that we could not see our hand before 
us. Apprehensive of an attempt to steal our horses, 
we posted two sentinels, and the remaining six lay 
down under our wet blankets, and the pelting of the 
sky, to such sleep as we might get, still preserving a 
little fire. We were scarcely asleep before we were 
aroused by the snorting of our horses and mules. We 
all sprang to our arms, and extinguished our little fire. 
We could not see a foot before us, and we groped about 
our camp, feeling our way among the horses and mules. 
We could discover nothing; so concluding they might 
have been frightened by the approach of a bear or 
some other wild animal, some of us commenced re- 
kindling our fires, and the rest went to sleep. But the 
Indians had crawled among our horses, and had 
cut or untied the rope by which each one was bound. 
The horses were then all loose. Then they instantly 
raised in concert their fiendish yell. As though heaven 
and earth were in concert against us, the rain began 
to pour again, accompanied with howling gusts of 
wind, and the fiercest gleams of lightning, and crashes 
of thunder. Terrified alike by the thunder and the 
Indians, our horses all took to flight, and the Indians, 
repeating yell upon yell, were close at their heels. 
We sallied out after them, and fired at the noises, 
though we could see nothing. We pursued with the 
utmost of our speed to no purpose, for they soon reached 
the open prairie, where we concluded they were joined 



38 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

by other Indians on horseback, who pushed our horses 
still faster; and soon the clattering of their heels and 
the yells of their accursed pursuers began to fade, and 
become indistinct in our ears. 

" Our feelings and reflections as we returned to 
camp were of the gloomiest kind. We were one thou- 
sand miles from the point whence we started, and 
without a single beast to bear either our property or 
ourselves. The rain had past. We built us a large 
fire. As we stood round it we discussed our deplorable 
condition, and our future alternatives. Something 
was to be done. 

" Driven from the resource of our horses, we happily 
turned our thoughts to another. We had all the requi- 
site tools to build canoes, and directly around us was 
suitable timber of which to make them. It was a 
pleasant scheme to soothe our dejection, and prevent 
our lying down to the sleep of despair. But this alter- 
native determined upon, there remained another ap- 
prehension sufficient to prevent our enjoying quiet 
repose. Our fears were, that the unsheltered Indians, 
horse- stealers and all, would creep upon us in the 
night, and massacre us all. But the night passed 
without any disturbance from them." 

From this point they finally succeeded in starting 
vdth two canoes, and floated dovm the Colorado River. 
When they neared the Gulf, the bore or tide nearly 
swamped them, and as they were unable to return 
up the river, they buried their traps and skins, and 
then started on that frightful journey across the desert 



JAMES O. PATTIE 39 

to the nearest of the Lower California Missions. It 
came near to finishing them, — crossing the desert, — 
and they were ill prepared for their reception at the 
Spanish settlement. As before related, they were 
taken to San Diego and placed in confinement. 

It is to be hoped that these few extracts are sufficient 
to indicate to the youth of California that the whole 
story of this adventurer's experience is of an un- 
usual character and well worth careful perusal. 



CHAPTER MI 

THE HERO OF THE SIERRAS, JEDEDL\H SMITH 

r' might be natural to infer that all the pioneers of 
a given epoch in the history of California would 
ha\e somewhat similar experiences in reaching the 
land of their desire, but doubtless even the brief refer- 
ence to their personal adventures given in these chap- 
ters vaU dispel such an inference. Their experiences 
were as "uidely different as their indi\idual character- 
istics and leading motives. 

Jedediah Smith was one of the band of trappers 
engaged by General W. H. Ashley at St, Louis, who, 
in 1824, or thereabouts, estabhshed a trading and 
trapping post near the Great Salt Lake. Two years 
later he started out with fifteen companions to explore 
the countT}-, more for the benefit of future operations 
than to trap, though he necessarily took the implements 
of his trade with him. There is no way of kno\^■ing 
exactly the route he took except that it was a general 
southwesterly course, for in due time he reached the 
Rio Mrgen • and followed it down to the Colorado 
River, and thence do-^m the Colorado to the !Mohave 
Lidian \'illages. At these places he appears to have 
been weU received, for he remained fifteen days, and 
when he left was furnished with two Indian guides, 
plenty of fresh pro\'i5ions, and horses stolen from the 



JEDEDIAH SMITH 41 

Spaniards. He struck off across the Colorado Desert 
on the trail of Captain de Anza, and in December 
reached the Mission of San Gabriel. 

Here, on account of the suspicion with which all 
strangers were received, the party was practically placed 
under arrest, and Smith was sent down to San Diego, 
— where Governor Echeandia had established his 
headquarters, — to explain the object of his mission. 
He appears to have got along with the governor more 
easily than did Pattie a little later, as his passport was 
\ouched for as correct by Dana, Cuimingham and 
other Americans who were there at the time. He 
was, therefore, permitted to purchase supplies, and, 
on explaining that it was practically impossible for 
him to return the way he came, to start eastward by a 
new route. He ^^■ished to go north by way of the 
Russian settlements to the Columbia River, but Ech- 
eandia would not permit that. He started in good 
spirits, and for a month or more nothing was heard of 
him. He then reappeared at San Bernardino with 
the story that he had traveled about three hundred 
miles, keeping at a distance of one hundred and fifty 
to two hundred miles from the coast, where he had 
found many naked Indians, a very fertile region, and 
some beavers, but that when he tried to cross the 
mountains — which he called !Mount Joseph — the 
snow was so deep that five of them died of hunger, 
and he was compelled to return to save the life of 
himself and his comrades. 

.\11 this had to be reported to the governor, who sent 
back orders to have the whole party detained; but 



42 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

in the meantime Smith had departed. This was late 
in February. Wliere he went is not known, but in May 
he was in the upper part of the San Joaquin VaUey, 
friendly with the Indians, and accused by Padre 
Duran, of Mission San Jose, of enticing his neophytes 
to desert. On the nineteenth of May, Smith wrote 
a frank and full statement to Padre Duran, explaining 
who and what he was, reciting his failures to cross the 
mountains, and that he was compelled to wait until 
the snow had gone. He was far from home, destitute 
of clothing and all the necessaries of life, save only 
game for food. He needed horses, and concluded his 
letter: " Though a foreigner, unknown to you. Rever- 
end Father, your true friend and Christian brother, 
J. S. Smith." 

Perhaps becoming suspicious that his failures to 
cross the mountains might be construed into a violation 
of Mexican law, he started the very next day, with 
but two companions, and succeeded in crossing the 
Sierras. As this is the first record of any white man's 
accomplishing the feat, it is well to give Smith's own 
account, which, though brief and meagre, is inter- 
esting. He says: 

" On May 20, 1827, with two men, seven horses, and 
two mules laden with hay and feed, I started from the 
Valley. In eight days we crossed Mount Joseph, 
losing on this passage two horses and one mule. At the 
summit of the mountain the snow was from four to 
eight feet deep, and so hard that the horses sank only 
a few inches. After a march of twenty days eastward 
from Mount Joseph, I reached the southwest corner 



JEDEDIAH SMITH 43 

of the Great Salt Lake, The country separating it 
from the mountains is arid and without game. Often 
we had no water for two days at a time; we saw but 
a plain, without the slightest trace of vegetation. 
Farther on I found rocky hills with springs, then hordes 
of Indians, who seemed to us the most miserable beings 
imaginable. When we reached the Great Salt Lake, 
we had left only one horse and one mule, so exhausted 
that they could hardly carry our light luggage. We had 
been forced to eat the horses that had succumbed." 

What a journey, and what a record! From his 
standpoint, what he had done was an ordinary, every- 
day affair. Hardships were the regular fare of trappers, 
and nothing was made of it. Civilization may do many 
things for us, but it has not yet produced a set of men 
as hardy, brave, and defiant of hardship as Jedediah S. 
Smith and others like him. 

To prove how little he thought of the dangers and 
perils he had escaped, he returned to California with 
eight men, arriving some time about October of the 
same year. For, it must be recalled, he had started 
away with but two men, and consequently some of his 
band were still in the territory of the Mexicans, who 
did not view their presence with favor. After gathering 
them together, he had a band of seventeen men, and 
late in October went to San Jose and Monterey, where 
Captain Cooper signed a bond, pledging his person 
and property for their good behavior and that they 
were not hostile to the country. 

This bond is now in the Bancroft Library, at the State 
University in Berkeley, and sets forth that Smith and 



44 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

his companions are honorable citizens of the United 
States, and are to be treated as friends, and furnished 
with arms, horses, and provisions at fair prices, so 
that they can return to their homes by way of Mission 
San Jose, the Straits of Carquinez and Bodega. They 
must not delay en route, and must not visit the coast 
south of latitude 42°, nor extend their inland operations 
farther than specifically allowed by the latest treaties. 
Smith then writes: "I acknowledge this bond. 
Jedediah S. Smith," after which Governor Echeandia 
gives the party permission to return, with one hundred 
mules, one hundred and fifty horses, a gun for each 
man, and divers bales of provisions and other effects. 
A guard of ten soldiers escorted the trappers to a point 
a little beyond San Francisco Solano, and then some- 
thing must have happened, though we do not know 
what, for on the eighteenth of November, Smith and 
his whole company arrived in San Francisco on the 
vessel Franklin, from Monterey. Then they pro- 
ceeded leisurely northwards, possibly by way of the 
Russian settlements, but, when crossing the Umpqua 
River, they were attacked by Indians, and fifteen were 
killed and all their property lost. Smith and three 
others barely escaped with their lives, and were next 
heard of at Fort Vancouver. Smith eventually re- 
turned to Salt Lake in 1829, and was killed two years 
later bv Indians in New Mexico. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE TYPICAL HERO OF EARLY GOLD DAYS, JOHN 
BID WELL 

np^HE most typical of all the pioneers who emigrated 
■*- to California and settled there prior to the gold 
discovery, and whUe the country was under Mexican 
rule, was John Bidwell. He arrived in California in 
October, 1841, in the first wagon-train of emigrants, 
for several years was General Sutter's assistant, finally 
settled on the Rancho Chico, some ninety-six miles 
north of Sacramento, and there died, April 3, 1900. 

There was nothing dramatically heroic in Bidwell's 
life similar to the chief events in the lives of some of the 
pioneer heroes herein recounted, but the whole of his 
career was of the unconsciously heroic type and is well 
worthy of a more extended study than can here be 
accorded it. 

He was born August 5, i8i9,at Ripley, Chautauqua 
County, New York, and moved with his parents first 
to Pennsylvania and then to Ohio. It was when in his 
twentieth year, living in the western part of Ohio, that 
he conceived a desire to see the great prairies of the 
West. He started on foot to walk to Cincinnati, ninety 
miles distant, and though conscious that traveling in 
that wild country was considered dangerous, took no 
weapon along. 



46 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Arrived at Cincinnati, he went down the Ohio River 
to the Mississippi, and thence up to St. Louis, finally 
reaching Burlington, Iowa, which then had a popula- 
tion of about two hundred inhabitants. This region 
not suiting him, he struck across country, without 
road or trail, determined to see Missouri. 

It is well to note this spirit of independent initiative 
in a youth not yet twenty-one years of age. This makes 
his later career more comprehensible, and denotes 
that strength of character which would have enabled 
him to become a controlling force wherever he had 
found himself. 

He settled in the Platte Purchase, a fertile region 
that recently had been purchased by the United States 
from the Indians, and he extolled its fertility and beauty 
in glowing language, showing how^ great an impression 
its natural advantages made upon him. Here he began 
to teach school in the coimtry, about five miles from 
Weston, — this was in June, 1839, — and in the fall 
of the year he located on a piece of land, intending 
to send to Ohio for his father. When the settlers first 
came to Platte County the land was unsurveyed, and 
each family being entitled to about half a square mile 
of land, they endeavored to locate about half a mile 
apart. So long as this guesswork location was the only 
method it was perfectly satisfactory and every one was 
content, but when the surveyors came the exact lines 
made by their instruments turned everything into chaos. 
The boundaries sometimes ran through a man's house, 
or cut his barn into triangles, and there had to be much 
giving and taking to adjust matters ^^'ithout trouble. 



JOHN BIDWELL 47 

Here and there excess patches would exist, and on one 
of these Bidwell made his location. 

The following summer, 1840, however, on a vacation 
trip to St. Louis, a bully " jumped " his claim, and 
refused to either vacate or divide. As Bidwell was not 
yet quite of age, and the law required this, and also 
that he reside upon the land, which, strictly, he had 
not done, he decided not to contest the claim but to 
go elsewhere when spring came. 

This was the turning point in his life. That winter 
he came in contact with Robidoux, a French trapper 
and trader (brother to the man who afterwards gave 
his name to Rubidoux Mountain at Riverside, Cali- 
fornia), who had visited California on a trapping expe- 
dition from Santa Fe. He gave enthusiastic descriptions 
of the country until he had turned the heads of all the 
people for miles around. As a result a company was 
organized the members of which pledged themselves to 
properly outfit and meet the following May at Sapling 
Grove, Kansas, ready to cross the plains and the Rocky 
Mountains to the new El Dorado. In a month, five 
hundred people were pledged; but when May came, 
owing to the opposition of the merchants (who did not 
wish to see their customers emigrate in a body), and 
the newspapers, only sixty-nine men, women, and 
children met at the rendezvous. In Weston Bidwell 
was the only man who carried out his pledge. He saved 
up money enough and bought a wagon, a gun, and 
provisions, but the man who had agreed to go along 
with him and provide the horses backed out, and for a 
time left him in despair. Just at the last moment an 



48 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

invalid, George Henshaw, rode into town on a fine 
black horse, and with fifteen dollars in his pocket, 
ready to risk the trip in a hope that he might thereby 
regain his health. Bidwell persuaded him to become 
his partner, but to do this he had to trade his horse 
for a yoke of steers for the wagon, and a sorry-looking, 
one-eyed mule which he could ride. 

The party was ready to start, ignorant of the road, 
without a guide, with less, possibly, than one hundred 
dollars in the pockets of the entire crowed, and having 
elected as captain a man who vowed if he were not so 
elected, he wouldn't go. Just before they started, 
however, they were joined by the distinguished Jesuit 
priest, Father De Smet, two other priests, a guide named 
Captain Fitzpatrick, and three men, w^ho were going 
out to the Flathead Indians in what is now Idaho. 
The emigrants were thus guided over half their journey. 

It is not necessary to recount their many and varied 
experiences on the long and wearisome march. Bid- 
well kept a journal, and later wrote in the Century 
Magazine a graphic description, which every Cali- 
fornia resident, young or old, should read. For it is 
the true narrative of the first emigrant train which 
crossed the plains, the deserts, and the mountains from 
the middle west to California. 

The emigrants, many of them, were insanely afraid 
of the Indians. On one occasion a man came into 
camp from a hunt, without gun, pistol, or mule, and 
lacking most of his clothes, declaring, with great ex- 
citement, that he had been surrounded by Indians and 
robbed. Bidwell says: 



JOHN BIDWELL 49 

" The company, too, became excited, and Captain 
Fitzpatrick tried, but with httle effect, to control and 
pacify them. Every man started his team into a run, 
till the oxen, like the mules and horses, were in a full 
gallop. Captain Fitzpatrick went ahead and directed 
them to follow, and as fast as they came to a bank of 
the river he put the wagons in the form of a hollow 
square, and had all the animals securely picketed 
within. After a while the Indians came in sight. There 
were only forty of them, but they were well mounted 
on horses, and were e\idently a war party, for they had 
no women except one, a medicine woman. They came 
up and camped within a hundred yards of us on the 
river below. Fitzpatrick told us that they would not 
have come in that way if the)^ were hostile. Our hunter 
in his excitement said there were hundreds of them, 
and that they had robbed him of his gun, mule, and 
pistol. Wlien the Indians had put up their lodges, 
Fitzpatrick and John Gray, an old hunter, went out to 
them and by signs were made to understand that the 
Indians did not intend to hurt the man or take his 
mule or gun, but that he was so excited when he saw 
them that they had to disarm him to keep him from 
shooting them; they did not know what had become 
of his pistol or of his clothes, which he said they had 
torn off. They surrendered the mule and the gun, 
thus showing that they were friendly." 

At Soda Springs, where Father De Smet left them, 
thirty-two of the party, becoming discouraged, decided 
not to venture without path or guide into the trackless 
region toward California, but concluded to go with the 



50 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

missionary party to Fort Hall and thence find their 
way down Snake and Columbia Rivers into Oregon. 

The other thirty-two decided to remain firm to their 
original purpose and proceed to California. Says Bid- 
well : " We were now thrown entirely upon our own 
resources. All the country beyond was to us a veritable 
terra incognita, and we only knew that California lay 
to the west." But they pushed on. " Unavoidable 
delays were frequent ; daily, often hourly, the road had 
to be made passable for our wagons by digging dov^ni 
steep banks, filling gulches, etc. Indian fires obscured 
mountains and valleys in a dense, smoky atmosphere, 
so that we could not see any considerable distance in 
order to avoid obstacles. The principal growth, on 
plain and hill alike, was the interminable sage-brush 
(artemisia), and often it was difficult, for miles at a 
time, to break a road through it, and sometimes a 
lightly laden wagon would be overturned. Its monoto- 
nous dull color and scraggy appearance gave a most 
dreary aspect to the landscape. But it was not wholly 
useless: where large enough it made excellent fuel, 
and it was the home and shelter of the hare — generally 
known as the jack-rabbit — and of the sage-hen." 

After reaching the western side of Salt Lake, travel 
with wagons became so arduous that they decided to 
abandon them: " On Green River we had seen the 
style of pack-saddles used by the trapping party, and 
had learned a little about how to make them. Packing 
is an art, and something that only an experienced moun- 
taineer can do well so as to save his animal and keep 
his pack from falling off. We were unaccustomed to 




Of 



o 
■z 

< 

2 '^ 
< 








George Wharton James, Fhoto. 

ON THE ROAD THAT SERRA TRAVELED COMING UP TO SAN 
DIEGO FROM LA PAZ. 



Page 1!, 




George IVharton J 



THE FORT AT TUBAC, ARIZONA, FROM WHICH DE ANZA BROUGHT 

SOME OF HIS SOLDIERS. 

Page n 



JOHN BIDWELL 51 

it, and the difficulties we had at first were simply in- 
describable. It is much more difficult to fasten a 
pack on an ox than on a mule or a horse. The trouble 
began the very first day. But we started — most of 
us on foot, for nearly all the animals, including several 
of the oxen, had to carry packs. It was but a few 
minutes before the packs began to turn; horses became 
scared, mules kicked, oxen jumped and bellowed, and 
articles were scattered in all directions. We took 
more pains, fixed things, made a new start, and did 
better, though packs continued occasionally to fall off 
and delay us." 

Their captain proved a poor leader, and twice or 
thrice abandoned them, but he either got lost or scared 
and each time before long returned to the party. 

The straits to which they were reduced as they de- 
scended into California can better be imagined than 
described from the following quotation: " We went on, 
traveling west as near as we could. WTien we killed 
our last ox we shot and ate crows or anything we could 
kill, and one man shot a wild-cat. We could eat any- 
thing." The ascent and descent of the range was 
equally dift'icult, and ever\- day and night saw new and 
fresh hardships. 

The party finally reached the edge of the San Joaquin 
Valley but did not know they were yet in California. 
They saw the Coast Range beyond and deemed that it 
had to be climbed before the promised land was reached. 
" The evening of the day we started down into the 
\alley we w^ere very tired, and when night came our 
party was strung along for three or four miles, and 



52 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

every man slept right where darkness overtook him. 
He would take off his saddle for a pillow and turn his 
horse or mule loose, if he had one. His animal would 
be too poor to walk away, and in the morning he would 
find him, usually within fifty feet. The jaded horses 
nearly perished with hunger and fatigue." 

A few days later, however, they met an Indian who 
guided them to the home of Dr. Marsh, located about 
four miles from San Jose, and thus their weary pil- 
grimage as emigrants came to an end. 

Bidwell wrote two other articles in the Century 
Magazine of great personal and historic interest, viz., 
" Life in California before the Gold Discovery," and 
" Fremont in the Conquest of California," but of 
greater interest to us now is his Diary, written and sent 
back to Missouri. It is dated " Bodega, Port of the 
Russians, Upper California, March 30, 1842," and 
gives the detailed account of his journey to California, 
at the close of which he gives some " Observations 
about the Country." These show the clearness of his 
mind and the keenness of his judgment, and also in- 
clude shrewd observations on Captain Sutter, and 
some strong words of censure about Dr. Marsh, whom 
he denounces as " perhaps the meanest man in Cali- 
fornia," recounting incidents that confirm this censure. 

His earliest occupation was to assist Captain Sutter, 
who sent him to dismantle Fort Ross, which he, Sutter, 
had just purchased from the Russians. When returning 
from the accomplishment of this work Bidwell had 
his horses stolen from him, and in their recovery, made 
" his first exploration of the Sacramento Valley, during 



JOHN BIDWELL 53 

which he named all the streams coming into the Sacra- 
mento from the east between Butte Creek and Red 
Bluff. He also made a map of the valley from his ob- 
servations on horseback, which served as the standard 
map of that country until the actual surveys were made 
in later years. Thus, two years before Fremont's first 
explorations, did Bidwell traverse and explore the 
primeval wilderness of Northern California at a time 
when there was not a white settler north of Sacra- 
mento." 

In October, 1844, Bidwell was accepted to Mexican 
citizenship and was granted a ranch known as Ulpinos, 
on the Lower Sacramento, in what is now Solano 
County, but when the settlers raised the Bear Flag, 
in 1846, he was one of the committee which drafted 
the plan of organization, and himself wrote the agree- 
ment, which all signed, to the effect that: The under- 
signed hereby agree to organize and remain in service 
as long as necessary for gaining and maintaining the In- 
dependence of California. " From this time until the 
close of the struggle with Mexico," writes Mr. C. C. 
Royce, " Bidwell was in active service in various ca- 
pacities, holding successively the rank of lieutenant 
captain and quartermaster, with the rank of major. 
He was also appointed by Fremont alcalde at the 
Mission of San Luis Rey, and commanded that post at 
the time of the Flores revolt in the fall of 1846, during 
which he had some thrilling and hazardous experiences." 

He was the first man to carry the news of the dis- 
covery of gold to San Francisco; was a member of 
the first State Senate; the committee man who named 



54 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

most of those counties whose names are not of Spanish 
origin; and was sent to Washington with the block 
of gold-bearing quartz which was used as California's 
contribution to the George Washington monument. 
While there he heard the discussions against the ad- 
mittance of California into the Union, and voiced the 
discouragements of the Californians to a lady whom he 
was commissioned to bring back to her husband in 
San Francisco. She had been a schoolmate of Senator 
Seward, and invited him to a farewell dinner before 
she left for California. This afforded Bidwell the op- 
portunity to present to Seward the cogent reasons for 
the immediate admission of California. This won 
not only a new vote for California, but an earnest and 
eloquent advocate of her claims, with the result that 
on August 13, 1850, the bill passed in the Senate, on 
September 7th, in the House, and two days later was 
signed by President Fillmore. Bidwell immediately 
sailed, bearing the glad tidings, arrived in San Fran- 
cisco from Panama, on the steamer Oregon, on Octo- 
ber 18, being the first to bring the full news of Cali- 
fornia's completed statehood. 

A Democrat in politics until the Civil War, he spoke 
in no uncertain voice at the time of the nation's peril, 
and was appointed brigadier general of the California 
militia. Mr. Royce claims that " to his intense loyalty, 
military alertness and efficiency on the one hand, 
coupled with the unrivaled and convincing eloquence 
of Rev. Thomas Starr King, is due, more than to any 
other individual influences, the decision of California to 
remain loyal to the Union, despite the desperate efforts 



JOHN BIDWELL 55 

of the powerful Southern element led by Gwin, Terry 
and others." 

In 1892 he was made the candidate of the Prohibition 
party for president, and in no measured terms declared 
his opinion of the liquor traffic. 

He gained more votes for his party than has ever 
been knowm before or since, and even his political 
enemies had nothing but kind words to speak for him, 
so open, honorable, and fair was his course against 
them. 

His treatment of the Indians found on his ranch 
has been at wide variance with that of most landed 
proprietors. Not one has ever been ejected, all who 
wished to work were given work and paid in food, 
clothes and w-ages. He set apart for them a tract 
about half a mile northwest of his own house, aided 
them in substituting permanent frame houses for their 
own rude and temporary structures, afforded them 
constant and efficient protection from the intrusion, 
insolence and outrage of lawless whites, and in every 
way became a father and friend to them. Their love 
and devotion to him and Mrs. Bidwell demonstrate 
their appreciation. No other person has ever been 
necessary to settle their little or big disputes, and now 
that he has " gone " Mrs. Bidwell takes her husband's 
full place in their regard and confidences. 

At the age of eighty years, after a brave and heroic 
life, filled with useful and beneficial labors, General 
Bidwell laid down his earthly task, April 3, 1900, and 
passed on to his reward. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE GREAT - HEARTED HERO OF THE SNOWS, 
CHARLES T. STANTON 

THE Stories of pioneer days are full of acts of in- 
dividual heroism, each one of which should be 
preserved. Some of these undoubtedly have been 
forgotten and never will be recorded on earth. Others 
have been buried in volumes, the existence of which 
is forgotten. This volume is written in the hope that 
for generations to come, it, or a better book of like 
character, will keep alive the memory of some of these 
heroes, until an awakened people erect to them more 
substantial and enduring monuments. 

Elsewhere is given a brief outline of the history of 
the Donner Lake party. When that party met with its 
second great disaster in the loss of Mr. Reed's oxen on 
the Great Salt Lake Desert, it was then discovered that 
their provisions were so low as almost to shut out the 
hope that they could reach California without an addi- 
tional supply. To go back was impracticable, as the 
advancing column would be marching further and 
further away each day from any aid thus gained. The 
road ahead was untraveled and unknown. The dis- 
tance was largely conjectural, as far as actual travel 
was concerned. The hardships were certain, the 
dangers unescapable, the risks many. Hostile Indians, 



CHARLES T. STANTON 57 

wild animals, perils from storms, quicksands, sun- 
stroke, scarcity of water, cold, heat, loss of way, and 
a thousand and one known and imaginable trials all 
upreared their unpleasant forms to prevent any thought- 
ful man from undertaking the mission. 

Yet in spite of all the obstacles, knoA\Ti and unknown, 
two men volunteered to go on ahead to California, 
without money to purchase aid, and by the simple 
statement of the needs of the party attempt to secure 
from strangers the required help. One of these vol- 
unteers, William McCutcheon, had a wife and daughter 
in the party; the other, Charles T. Stanton, was alone, 
and could have had no other motive in seeking relief 
for the party than a disinterested one. 

It was a solemn occasion when these two men, 
each on horseback, with a small quantity of provi- 
sions, carrying a letter to Captain Sutter, of Sutter's 
Fort, in which the sad plight of the party was set 
forth, said their farewells and left their companions. 
As they were watched until they disappeared from sight, 
what emotions stirred in the souls of those left behind. 
Naturally every one felt that McCutcheon would re- 
turn, ■ — his wife and daughter were a sufficient magnet, 
— but how about Stanton ? He had no family ties, no 
social obligations; nothing but his plighted word, his 
honor and his humanity. 

Of their trip over the deserts of Utah and Nevada, 
and the climb of the Sierras we know practically noth- 
ing. But we do know that they safely passed through 
all dangers, and reached Sutter's Fort. Here Mc- 
Cutcheon was taken sick, but not before he and Stanton 



58 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

had laid the case of the party before the generous- 
hearted Sutter and had received his promise of help. 
Consequently Stanton was compelled to return alone. 
Sutter gave him five mules, laden with flour and dried 
beef, and the aid and assistance of two Indians, Lewis 
and Salvador, who were to accompany him and return 
with the party. 

We can imagine the brave man starting joyously 
on the return journey. He knew the dangers now, 
as he did not before, for he had seen the stern barrier of 
the Sierras, had camped on its dangerous slopes, and 
had seen how its trails and poor roads would be oblit- 
erated with one fall of a heavy snow. Yet joy filled his 
manly heart, for he was returning to give help, com- 
fort and succor to the needy. 

And how they welcomed him on his arrival! They 
were reduced already to sad straits. Many were walk- 
ing, and they were almost out of food. None of them 
would ever have survived had he not come so oppor- 
tunely. The party had reached the Truckee River, 
beyond where Reno now stands. Snow had already 
fallen on the high summits of the Sierras, and every- 
thing foreshadowed a severe storm. Stanton urged 
the wearied people on. He pointed out their dire 
danger, and he made clear to them that if the snow 
trapped them on this side of the summit there would 
be little or no hope of their escape. But, if they would 
push on and reach the summit at once, the descent 
into the valleys of California would be comparatively 
easy. He knew pretty well that their lives depended 
upon following this course. 



CHARLES T. STANTON 59 

Frantic at the thought of the danger thus made 
clear to them, each selfishly strove to do the best he 
could for himself, and considerable energy was wasted 
in these endeavors. "At last, one day, a determined 
and systematic attempt was made to cross the summit. 
Nearly the entire train was engaged in the work. The 
road, of course, was entirely obliterated by the snow. 
Guided only by the general contour of the country, 
all hands pressed resolutely forward. Here, large 
boulders and irregular, jutting cliffs would intercept 
the way; there, dizzy precipices, yawTiing chasms, 
and deep canyons would interpose; and anon, a bold, 
impassable mountain of rock would rear its menacing 
front directly across their path. All day long the men 
and animals floundered through the snow, and at- 
tempted to break and trample a road. Just before 
nightfall they reached the abrupt precipice where the 
present wagon-road intercepts the snow-sheds of the 
Central Pacific." ' 

There, wearied and tired, they stopped for a confer- 
ence. They were thoroughly frightened now. Some 
of the party wished to bribe the Indians to go ahead 
with them, but Stanton kept them with him. He 
wanted them all to make one more desperate at- 
tempt. 

Yet when some of the tired ones declared they could 
not take another step (and they doubtless believed it was 
true, though some of them afterwards showed that they 
could have traveled twice as far as they had come that 
day) and insisted upon resting all night, he and the 

' " History of the Donner Party," C. F. McGlashan, p. 57. 



6o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Indians did not leave them to their fate, but remained 
behind to share whatever Fortune had in store for 
them. 

" That night came the dreaded snow. Around the 
camp-fires under the trees great feathery flakes came 
whirling do\\-n. The air was so full of them that one 
could see objects only a few feet away. The Indians 
knew we were doomed, and one of them wTapped his 
blanket around him and stood all night under a tree." ' 

Even then, had Stanton and the Indians chosen, 
they could have gone on ahead and escaped. He could 
have made a good excuse (as many a man's conscience 
has allowed him to do for worse things), by pleading 
that, as the party would not press forward when he 
assured them their lives were in danger, he could not 
jeopardize his o\\ti life by remaining. But no! he 
had come to their relief, and even in their folly he 
would stick by them and do the best he could to aid 
them. 

The party now returned to the lake which afterwards 
bore the name of " Donner," built cabins, and settled 
down to make the best of it until the snow ceased. 

" Many attempts were made to cross the mountains, 
but all who tried were driven back by the pitiless 
storms. Finally a party was organized, since known 
as the ' Forlorn Hope.' They made snow-shoes, 
and fifteen started, — ten men and five women." 

Stanton, dauntless and hopeful, declared: "I will 
bring help to these famishing people or lay dovm my 

' Mrs. Virginia Reed Murphy in T/ie Century Magazine. July, 
1891, p. 421. 



I 



CHARLES T. STANTON 6i 

life." The two Indians were of the party, and a 
brave- hearted, jovial Irishman, named Patrick Dolan. 

Imagine them as they started from that place of 
suffering and woe. Snow! snow! snow! everywhere! 
They took a supply of provisions that, with the utmost 
care, would last them only six days. They had also 
matches, a gun, a hatchet and a thin blanket apiece. 
They wore snow-shoes which they had made from the 
packs brought over by Stanton. That night they 
camped within sight of the lake and the cabins they were 
leaving. They had traveled only four miles. 

" The next day they traveled six miles. They crossed 
the summit, and the camp was no longer visible. They 
were in the solemn fastnesses of the snow- mantled 
Sierras. Lonely, desolate, forsaken apparently by 
God and man, their situation was painfully, distressingly 
terrible. The snow was wrapped about cliff and forest 
and gorge. It varied in depth from twelve to sixty 
feet." 

The third day they walked iive miles. It had snowed 
during the night. 

" Starting almost at dawn, they struggled wearily 
tlirough the deep drifts, and when the night shadows 
crept over crag and pine and mountain vale, they were 
but five miles on their journey. They did not speak 
during the day, except when speech was absolutely 
necessary. All traveled silently, and with downcast 
eyes. The task was beginning to tell upon the frames 
of even the strongest and most resolute. The hunger 
that continually gnawed at their vitals, the excessive 
labor of moving the heavy, clumsy snow-shoes through 



62 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the soft, yielding snow, was too much for human en- 
durance. They could no longer keep together and 
aid each other with words of hope. They struggled 
along, sometimes at great distances apart. The fatigue 
and dazzling sunlight rendered some of them snow- 
blind. One of these was the noble-hearted Stanton. 
On this third day he was too blind and weak to keep 
up with the rest, and staggered into the camp long 
after the others had finished their pitiful supper. 
Poor, brave, generous Stanton! He said little, but in 
his inner heart he knew that the end of his journey 
was close at hand. 

" Who was this heroic being who left the beautiful 
Valley of the Sacramento to die for strangers? See 
him wearily toiling onward during the long hours of 
the fourth day. The agony and blindness of his eyes 
wring no cry from his lips, no murmur, no word of 
complaint. With patient courage and heroic fortitude 
he strives to keep pace with his companions, but finds 
it impossible. Early in the morning he drops to the 
rear, and is soon lost to sight. At night he drags his 
weary limbs into camp long after his comrades are 
sleeping 'neath the silent stars. It must be remembered 
that they had been accustomed to short allowance of 
food for months, while he had been used to having 
an abundance. Their bodies had been schooled to 
endure famine, privations and long, weary walks. For 
many days before reaching the mountains, they had 
been used to walking every day, in order to lighten 
the burdens of the perishing oxen. Fatigues which 
exhausted them crushed Stanton. The weather was 



CHARLES T. STANTON 63 

clear and pleasant, but the glare of the sun during the 
day had been like molten fire to their aching eyes, 

" On the morning of the fifth day, Stanton was sitting 
smoking by the smouldering fixe when the company 
resumed its journey. Alary Graves, who had a tender 
heart for the suffering of others, went kindly up to 
him, and asked him if he were coming. ' Yes,' he re- 
plied, ' I'm coming soon.' Was he answering her, or 
the unseen spirits that even then were beckoning him 
to the unknown world? 'Yes, I'm coming soon!' 
Those were his last knowTi words. His companions 
were too near death's door to return when they found 
he came not, and so he perished. 

" He was a hero of the highest, noblest, grandest 
stamp. No words can ever express a fitting tribute 
to his memory. He gave his life for strangers who had 
not the slightest claim to the sacrifice. He left the 
valleys where friends, happiness and abundance pre- 
vailed, to perish amid chilling snow drifts — famished 
and abandoned. The act of returning to save the 
starving emigrants is as full of heroic grandeur as his 
death is replete with mournful desolation. 

" In May, 1847, W. C. Graves, in company with a 
relief party, found his remains near the spot where he 
had been left by his companions. Wild animals had 
partially devoured his body, but the remains were easily 
identified by means of his clothing and pistols." ^ 

' McGlashan in his "History of the Donner Party." 



CHAPTER X 

THE MIDNIGHT HEROINE OF THE PLAINS, VIRGINIA 

REED 

THE Story of the Donner Lake party is well known. 
The chief facts are that in 1846, while California 
was still a foreign country — being then a province 
of Mexico — a party of home-seekers left Springfield, 
Illinois. The chief organizer of the expedition was 
James T. Reed, and two families of the name of Donner 
were among the first to join him. Owing to circum- 
stances that afterwards occurred, the party became 
known by their name instead of by Reed's. When they 
reached Independence, Missouri, many others joined 
them, and a large band of men, women and children 
finally left that then frontier town with their faces ear- 
nestly set towards the Sea of the Setting Sun. When they 
reached Fort Bridger they were urged to take a cut-off, 
which, it was said, would save them three hundred 
miles. A large majority decided to go by the old road, 
which they did, and ultimately reached California with 
comparative ease and safety. Eighty-four persons, led 
by the Reed and Donner families, took the cut-off and 
thereby entangled themselves in great difficulties, and 
occupied so much of their time that they were eventually 
caught in the snow on the eastern slope of the Sierras. 
But before they reached this point, several disasters of 




Copyitght, I'JOi, by George Wharton James. 

A YUMA INDIAN. DESCENDANT OF ONE OF THOSE WHO GUIDED 

JUAN BAUTISTA DE ANZA. 

Page n 



VIRGINIA REED 65 

great moment occurred. Mr. Reed suffered a great 
loss in that, when crazed for want of water in crossing 
the Salt Lake Desert, his oxen rushed off beyond con- 
trol, and were never seen again; and, a couple of weeks 
later, while at the sink of the Humbolt, more head of 
oxen were stolen from the party by the Indians. 

When finally caught in the snow, over forty of the 
party perished, and such were the dire straits to which 
the survivors were reduced for food, that they were 
compelled (all save the Reed family) to partake of the 
flesh of their companions who had died. Ultimately 
succor came to them, and they were conveyed by 
different relief parties to safety and California. 

Shortly after crossing the Humbolt River in Nevada, 
however, a tragic incident occurred which led to the 
act of heroism here related. 

The party arrived at a short but sandy hill, and as 
the oxen were all wearied it had been the custom at 
such places to " double up " teams and one driver 
with his oxen help another up the hill, when both teams 
would return for the second wagon. A driver named 
Snyder, for some unaccountable reason, decided to 
go up alone. His oxen could not accomplish it, and 
the driver became angry and began to abuse his ani- 
mals. Mr. Reed, who had been on ahead, seeking out 
the best road, happened to return at this juncture, 
and in trying to calm the excited man aroused his ire 
to a point of frenzy. He jumped upon his wagon tongue 
and struck Mr. Reed with the butt end of his whip, ma- 
king three ugly gashes in his scalp, from which the 
blood streamed. Mrs. Reed, with a good woman's 



66 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

impulse, rushed in between the two men, and the blow 
descended again, but this time upon her devoted head, 
cutting it as it had done her husband's. As the crazy 
man raised his whip to strike again, Mr. Reed drew 
his hunting knife and thrust it into Snyder's side, killing 
him almost instantly. 

That afternoon the party sentenced Reed to banish- 
ment, under conditions which can only be deemed 
cruel and wicked. He was to go forth into the trackless 
desert without food, water, bedding, guns or ammuni- 
tion, and even without one of his own horses to ride. 
At first he refused to obey the sentence, but finally the 
pleadings of his wife prevailed, and at her urgent 
request a horse was allowed him. 

What now follows is a chapter from the story of 
Mrs. Virginia Reed Murphy, Mr. Reed's daughter, 
who was then a child of twelve years of age.' 

Who can conceive the sad loneliness that flooded 
the hearts of the forsaken family, as they ate their 
scant meal that night in their isolated wagon ? EUiott 
and a few of the others were as kind as they could be, 
but they saw that it was wise to be as unostentatious 
as possible, for awhile at least, in what they did for the 
family of the unfortunate Reed. As the darkness of 
night came on, Virginia, who had been doing her best 
to comfort her heart-broken mother, spoke to her with 
calm determination: " Mama, I'm going out to find 
my father and take him some food and his gun and 
pistols and ammunition." Startled out of her over- 

'" The Story of Virginia Reed Murphy, one of the Donner Party," 
by George Wharton James, soon to be published. 



VIRGINIA REED 67 

whelming sorrow by the words of her daughter, Mrs. 
Reed exclaimed: "What do you mean, child? You 
cannot find your father!" But Virginia had fortified 
herself on all points. She replied : " I'm not going 
alone. I've asked Milt, and he says he'll go with me." 
So while her mother lay in silent agony of mind, the 
child began to gather together the things she knew her 
father needed. The party had already been put on 
short provisions, but Virginia found some crackers, 
a small piece of bacon, some coffee and sugar. Then 
she secured a tin cup or dipper for her father to make 
coffee in, and placed his gun, pistols and ammunition 
with the food. Now she got a lantern, saw that there 
was a piece of candle in it, and then put a number of 
matches in her pocket — most of which she intended 
to give to her father. 

All this had to be done silently and after the other 
children were fast asleep, for both mother and child 
knew that the feeling was so strong she would not 
have been allowed to go had any suspicion of her inten- 
tion entered the minds of the rest of the party. Milton 
had been cautioned by the thoughtful maiden not to 
come near their wagon until the whole camp was quiet 
and asleep, and then to approach only in the most 
stealthy manner. 

When everything was ready, Virginia resumed her 
place by her suffering mother's side: "How will you 
find your father this dark night ? " the latter questioned 
in a whisper. " I shall look for his horse's tracks and 
follow them," was the instant response. Breathlessly 
the two waited for the arrival of Milton. Soon he was 



68 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

heard. Then, after a fond but silent farewell and a 
heartfelt "God bless you, my brave daughter!" the 
mother sank back upon her couch, while the twelve- 
year-old girl and her companion started out on what, 
to me, was one of the bravest expeditions of all history. 
Out into the darkness they creep. Stealthily they 
hide themselves in the shadows cast by the wagons 
in the flickering light of the dying camp-fire, which 
makes them dance and leap like hideous and misshapen 
monsters. They cautiously approach the unsuspicious 
sentinel, who wearily tramps back and forth, and 
hold their breath with anxiety as he suddenly stops, 
watches the sleeping camp and peers into the mysteri- 
ous darkness of the desert. Lying down upon the 
ground, they crawl and silently drag their bodies along 
until out of his hearing, and then, feeling with their 
feet lest they fall into unseen danger, now and again 
startled by some sudden noise that suggests to their 
excited senses the presence of wild animals or wilder 
men, they slowly increase the distance between them- 
selves and the camp. At last Virginia whispers: 
" Stop, Milt. Let us light the lantern! " and, stooping 
down, she spreads out her skirts, so that not the slight- 
est flash of match or beam of light can reach the senti- 
nel or any other member of the camp. Elliott lights 
the lantern, which she then takes in her own hand 
and covers with her scant skirts, so that its beams 
illuminate only the small circle in which she stands. 
Now, carefully looking, she searches eagerly for the 
footprints of her father's horse. To and fro, back and 
forth, she peers. Though feverishly anxious and ready 



VIRGINIA REED 69 

to fly on the wings of the lightning, there is no careless 
haste in her search. She is thoughtful and deliberate. 
She even completely circles the camp in her intelligent 
determination to find those tracks. At last her keen 
search is rewarded. She starts forward, a half-sob, 
half-cry of gratitude and thankfulness escaping from 
her lips. She turns to Milton, points to the tracks, and 
then eagerly follows them. With all her senses made 
keen by agonizing love, she refuses to trust the first 
assurances of her vision. Again and again she kneels 
and examines the tracks until she is finally convinced 
she is right. Then confidently, but with no relaxation 
of caution — for an inadvertent flash from the lantern 
might bring a death-dealing shot from the rifle of the 
sentinel — she follows where they lead, Milton close 
behind with the gun and provisions. On and on they 
go, — for hours it seems to the impatient child. Mile 
after mile the tracks lead. Now they have lost them. 
They carefully circle and eagerly search to find them 
again. What an agony Virginia sufi'ers in those few 
moments ! 

Listen! Suddenly on the midnight air the wild 
and fearful howl of coyotes makes the darkness hideous 
and horrible. From the distance comes an even more 
appalling and to be dreaded cry — that of the maraud- 
ing panther, seeking for prey. At that cry it is no fig- 
ment of the imagination to say that Milton's hair 
stands on end. But on they go for a few moments. 
Again they halt. With her hand held tightly to her 
breast, as if to still the fearful beating of her heart, 
Virginia gazes with wild eyes into the darkness, while 



70 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Milton, strong and brave though he is, seems paralyzed 
with fear. What has so frightened them ? We cannot 
see, but we can conjecture that they have heard a few 
sounds that are more weird and sinister than those of the 
wild and ferocious desert animals. For they are sug- 
gestive of human tigers, whose lust for blood they have 
already had too sad evidence of, — the Indians of 
her childish fears. All the terror of the past years of 
her life seem to be condensed iato the awful power 
of one dread moment. Can she possibly go on with 
that unspeakable fear clutching at her heart? Child 
though she is, she silently calls upon God and summons 
Him to help her. She dare not be afraid when her 
father is in need and in danger. Is she not going to 
minister to him when no one else can ? 

Nothing must be allowed to deter her from the 
successful accomplishment of this mission. So, forget- 
ful of her own weariness, steeling her heart to withstand 
all fears, and resolutely calming herself when panic 
grips her heart-strings at the thought of a possible 
horrible death if captured by the Indians, she reso- 
lutely goes forward. At length her persistence and 
bravery are rewarded. She sees in the far-away dis- 
tance the faintest gleam of light. Her heart leaps up 
with joy and she whispers to Milton: " There is papa! " 

The next moment the startling thought springs 
into being: "What if it is an Indian fire?" Then 
her reason asserts itself. " You are on the track of 
your father's horse. Follow that, and it will be all 
right, and if — " And then for a moment her heart 
stops beating again, for the suggestion enters her mind 



VIRGINIA REED 71 

that if — ah if — her father has fallen mto the hands 
of a band of treacherous Indians, what might not that 
fire reveal to her ? 

"But, anyhow" — comes the next thought, "it 
matters not what I find, I can only know by going 
on." So, saying nothing to Milton of the fear that al- 
most paralyzes her, she steadily marches on. How 
slowly they go! How far away the light is! Will they 
never reach it ? It seems as if the more they walk the 
farther away it gets, until, glad moment, in its dim 
rays the eyes of discerning love at last recognizes the 
the beloved form, and with a cry of almost maternal 
yearning Virginia sobs out : " Oh, papa, my papa," 
and the next moment is convulsively clutched to the 
heart of the despairing father. 

" My child, my Virginia, you should not have come 
here," he cries, when the first transport of happy sur- 
prise is over. 

" I've brought you some food, and your gun, and 
a blanket, and a little coffee and some crackers. And 
here's a tin cup, too, father, and your pistols and some 
powder and caps. Oh, and here are some matches! " 
replies the little maiden, laughing and crying in her 
joy, as, one by one, she spreads the articles out on 
her wondering father's knees. 

" Is this a dream ? or is it an angel visitation sent 
from God ? " breathlessly queries Mr. Reed. But 
Virginia soon convinces him of her personal presence, 
and as he takes the gun and other things she has 
brought, he resoh^es with a new and deeper resolve 
than ever, that, God helping him, he will hurry on to 



72 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

California, and secure for his brave little daughter, 
with her sister and baby brothers and their loved 
mother, the help and succor they need. 

Then his arms enfolding her to his heart, with 
Milton near by, all three sit and cry, until, their emotion 
subsiding, they talk of the mother, back in camp, and 
of Patty and James, and the baby. Two or three hours 
thus speedily pass, until the first sentinels of dawn 
silently make their presence kno\vn. Then the fond 
father sadly arises and bids his daughter say good-by 
and go back to her mother. 

" Go back ? " she cries, as if the idea were ridiculous: 
"I'm not going back, father; I'm going with you. 
Milt will go back, but I'm going on with you. Oh, 
papa, papa, don't send me back, for I cannot bear to 
see those cruel men. Let me go with you! " 

" You know, Virginia darling, I want you badly 
enough, but it cannot be. Don't make it harder for 
me than it is by trying to go with me." And then, he 
gently unfolds the arms that convulsively chng to him, 
and kissing her again and again, he places her in Elhott's 
arms, with the words: " Here, Milt, take her back to 
her mother." The next moment, gathering up the 
precious articles she has brought to him — articles 
ten fold more precious because of that fact —he 
mounts his steed and rides out into the solitude of the 
western desert. 



CHAPTER XI 

THE GENEROUS HEROES OF DEATH VALLEY, MANLY 
AND ROGERS 

THE heroism of Manly and Rogers is on a par 
with that of Stanton, whose story has already 
been told. The horrors of Death Valley, and how it 
came by its name are told in the next chapter. 

In studying the history of the pioneers of the State 
of California, one cannot help being impressed by the 
stories of unconscious heroism that, in the most simple 
and ingenuous way, have been recorded by their 
unpractised authors. It cannot be denied that there 
are few pioneer stories that can stand the test of aca- 
demic criticism. Few of them are grammatically con- 
structed, and they nearly all reveal ignorance of the 
science of rhetoric. Poorly written, wretchedly punctu- 
ated, badly constructed, they yet contain epics as 
thrilling as those of Homer, recitals as dramatic as 
those of Caesar, adventures as startling as those 
of Marco Polo, achievements as brave as those of 
Napoleon. But the world, for many centuries, has 
been led to believe that heroes are military men, that 
great achievements are only to be looked for from men 
wearing a uniform, and that the acts that thrill the 
soul are generally to be expected during the physical 
conflicts called war. We have been blinded to the 



74 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

achievements of real bravery and true heroism by 
the glare of the false, the meretricious, the sensational. 
The time has come when men will see more clearly, 
understand more fully, and when actions will more 
nearly be relegated to their proper altitude in the 
esteem of the race. Hence we are beginning more and 
more to take notice of the deeds of such men as those 
whose names head this chapter, the story of whose 
heroism is told by one of the participants in his record 
of Death Valley, * with the simple ingenuousness of a 
chUd. 

Of the early experiences of the Death Valley party 
space forbids more than the barest mention. It was 
one of those combination parties that met at Salt 
Lake City, and, as in the case of the Donner party, 
they were induced to take a " cut-off " that led them 
into woeful trouble. After numerous adventures 
and hardships, they arrived near the eastern side of 
what is now known as Death Valley. There were 
seven wagons in the party. The oxen were so exhausted 
and poor that they could travel no further, and it was 
decided that the party must return a little distance to 
where there was a good spring and wait while some 
one went ahead and explored a road to the nearest 
California settlements and brought back relief. 

Manly himself and a strong, burly Tennessean 
finally volunteered for the service. An ox that had 
nearly " given out " was slain to provide food for the 
two, and the condition of the poor creature can be 
understood when it is told that seven-eighths of its 

• "Death Valley in '49," W. L. Manly. 



MANLY AND ROGERS 75 

flesh, dried, was packed into the knapsacks of the two 
men. Manly writes: 

" I consented, though I knew it was a hazardous 
journey, exposed to all sorts of things, Indians, climate 
and probably lack of water, but I thought I could do it." 

They journeyed over the valley, crossed the range, 
following In the track of a party that had gone on ahead. 
In two or three days they came upon the dead body 
of one of them, who had died In a rocky place where 
it was impossible to make a grave. Soon they caught 
up with this party, who were already growing despond- 
ent, as another member had died. Then, pushing on 
ahead, the two went on their errand, and, in due time, 
reached the San Fernando Valley over the Soledad 
Pass, where peace and plenty abounded. Here they 
met with a man named French, who took them to the 
San Fernando Mission, where they were kindly treated, 
and provided with two horses, provisions, pack-saddles 
and ropes, and shown how to pack their animals 
properly. Then Manly bought a little, one-eyed mule, 
and Rogers purchased a horse, — a snow-white mare. 

At once they started on their way back. At first 
it was easy; then they came to the desert over which 
they had crossed before with so much difficulty, and 
finally to a range of mountains on the other side of 
which they knew their comrades were anxiously await- 
ing them. They had already been longer than the 
time appointed, and were they to go the route they 
had come — around the range to the north — they 
would occupy several days longer. So they decided 
to cross the range. Their pack and saddle-horses 



76 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

were now almost exhausted, and only the little mule 
seemed able to pick up enough scant living to keep 
up his strength. At last they came to a place where 
they were compelled to leave the horses and go on, 
the mule being able to go where the horses could not 
follow. Here let Manly tell the story: 

" We removed the saddles and placed them on a 
rock, and after a few moments' hesitation, — mo- 
ments in which were crowded torrents of wild ideas 
and desperate thoughts that were enough to drive 
Reason from her throne, we left the poor animals to 
their fate and moved along. Just as we were passing 
out of sight the poor creatures neighed pitifully after 
us, and one who has ne\'er heard the last despairing, 
pleading neigh of a horse left to die can form no idea of 
its almost human appeal. We both burst into tears, but 
it was no use, — to try to save them we must run the 
danger of sacrificing ourselves and the little party 
we were trying so hard to save. 

"We found the little mule stopped by a still higher 
precipice or perpendicular rise of fully ten feet. Our 
hearts sank v\ithin us and we said that we should 
return to our friends as we went away, with our knap- 
sacks on our backs, and the hope grew very small. The 
little mule was nipping some stray blades of grass, and 
as we came in sight she looked around to us and then 
up the steep rocks before her \vith such a knowing, 
intelligent look of confidence, that it gave us new cour- 
age. It was a strange wild place. The north wall of 
the canyon leaned far over the channel, overhanging 
considerably, while the south wall sloped back about 



MANLY AND ROGERS 77 

the same, making the wall nearly parallel, and like a 
huge crevice descending into the mountain from above in 
a sloping direction. We decided to try to get the con- 
fident little mule over this obstruction. Gathering 
all the loose rocks we could, we piled them up against 
the south wall, beginning some distance below, putting 
up all those in the bed of the stream and throwing 
down others from narrow shelves above; we built a 
sort of inclined plane along the walls, gradually rising till 
we were nearly as high as the crest of the fall. Here was 
a narrow shelf scarcely four inches wide and a space 
of from twelve to fifteen feet to cross to reach the level 
of the crest. It was all I could do to cross this space, 
and there was no foundation to enable us to widen it 
so as to make a path for an animal. It was a forlorn 
hope but wc made the most of it. We unpacked the 
mule, and getting all our ropes together, made a leading 
line of them. Then wc loosened and threw down all the 
projecting points of rocks we could above the narrow 
shelf, and c\ery piece that was likely to come loose 
in the shelf itself. We fastened the leading line to 
her, and with one above and one below we thought 
we could help her to keep her balance, and if she 
did not make a misstep on that narrow way she 
might get over safely. Without a moment's hesi- 
tation the brave animal tried the pass. Carefully 
and steadily she went along, selecting a place before 
putting down a foot, and when she came to the 
narrow ledge leaned gently on the rope, never making 
a sudden start or jump, but cautiously as a cat moved 
slowly along. There was now no turning back for her. 



78 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

She must cross this narrow place over which I had 
to creep on hands and knees, or be dashed down fifty 
feet to a certain death. When the worst place was 
reached she stopped and hesitated, looking back as well 
as she could. I was ahead with the rope, and I called 
encouragingly to her and talked to her a little. Rogers 
wanted to get read}- and he said, ' holler ' at her as 
loud as he could and frighten her across, but I thought 
the best way was to talk to her gently and let her 
move steadily. 

" It was a trying moment. It seemed to be weighed 
down with all the trials and hardships of many months. 
It seemed to be the time when helpless women and 
innocent children hung on the trembling balance be- 
tween life and death. Our own lives we could save by 
going back, and sometimes it seemed as if we would save 
ourselves the additional sorrow of finding them all dead 
to do so at once. I was so nearly in despair that I could 
not help bursting into tears, and I was not ashamed 
of the weakness." 

I would have my readers note carefully the words 
italicized, for the italics are mine, not Manly's. Here 
is a clear evidence of the presence of the temptation 
to go back and abandon the attempt at relief, and even 
the specious argument with which it was forced upon 
his attention, as well as a candid and frank recognition 
of the desire to yield to the temptation, — " and some- 
times it seemed as if we would perhaps save ourselves 
the additional sorrow of finding them all dead to 
return at once." Yet the brave fellows manfully faced 
death for themselves and went on. 



MANLY AND ROGERS 79 

To resume Manly's story: 

" Finally Rogers said, ' Come, Lewis! ' and I gently 
pulled the rope, calling the little animal to make a trial. 
She smelled all around and looked over every inch of 
the strong ledge, then took one careful step after an- 
other over the dangerous place. Looking back, I saw 
Rogers with a v^ery large stone in his hand, ready to 
' holler ' and perhaps kill the poor beast if she stopped. 
But she crept along, trusting to the rope for balance, till 
she was half way across, then another step or two, when, 
calculating the distance closely, she made a spring 
and landed on a smooth bit of sloping rock below, 
that led up to the highest crest of the precipice, and 
safely climbed to the top, safe and sound above the 
faU." 

What a picture ! Some day I hope one of California's 
artists will paint it, so that a copy may be placed in 
every school in the State, as a reminder of the golden- 
hearted heroism of the men and the courage of the 
brave little mule. 

As they neared the camp, they came upon the dead 
body of one of the men they had left when they started 
on their California journey, so it was with some trepida- 
tion that they finally reached the wagons. There they 
found that several members of the party had grown 
impatient and had determined to go on ahead, some 
of them declaring that " If those boys (Alanly and 
Rogers) ever get out of this cussed hole, they will be 
'tarnal fools if they ever come back to help anybody." 
But they had kept their pledges^ and had brought new 
life and hope to the almost discouraged ones, so that 



8o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

now they were ready once again to endure the hard- 
ships that were before them, and to journey on to 
the Cahfornia of their desire. 

The story of that journey is fascinating to the reader, 
though arduous and heart-breaking to those who made 
it, but we have space here for pictures of two only 
of their experiences. As the horses were unable to 
get through, arrangements were made to carry the 
women and children on the oxen. Let Manly tell 
the story of their plans: 

** They had selected two oxen for the women to ride, 
one to carry water, and one to carry the four children. 
There were no saddles, but blankets enough to make a 
soft seat, and they proposed to put a band or belt 
around the animals for the riders to hold on by, and 
the blankets would be retained in place by breast 
and breeching straps which had been made. They 
had found out that it was very difficult to keep a load 
of any kind upon an ox, and had devised all this harness 
to meet the trouble." 

To carry the smaller children a kind of " pannier," 
had been made by taking two strong shirts, turning the 
sleeves inside, sewing up the necks, and then sewing 
the two tails together. When this was placed across 
the ox a pocket was formed on each side large enough 
to carry a small child. It took them some time to 
select from their wagons what they should take, and 
what leave. 

" Mrs. Arcane was from a city and had fondly con- 
veyed thus far some articles of finery, of considerable 
value and much prized. She could not be persuaded 




_■*<',•» >,'l;'' <!¥' 




s«f'^~ if 








MANLY AND ROGERS 8i 

lo leave them here to deck the red man's wife, and 
have her go flirting over the mountains with, and as 
they had Httle weight she concluded she would wear 
them and this would perhaps preserve them. So 
she got out her best hat and trimmed it up with extra 
ribbon, leaving some with quite long ends to stream 
out behind. Arcane brought up his ox, Old Brigham, 
for he had been purchased at Salt Lake and named in 
honor of the great IVIormon Saint. 

" Mrs. Arcane also dressed her little boy Charlie 
in his best suit of clothes, for she thought he might 
as well wear them out as to throw them away. 
She made one think of a fairy in gay and flying ap- 
parel. In the same way all selected their best and most 
serviceable garments, for it was not considered prudent 
to carry any load, and poor clothes were good enough 
to leave for Indians. . . . High overhead was the sun, 
and very warm indeed on that day in the fore part of 
February,* 1850, when the two children were put on Old 
Crump to see if he would let them ride. The two small 
children were placed in the pockets on each side, 
face outward, and they could stand or sit as they should 
choose. George and Melissa were placed on top, and 
given hold of the strap that was to steady them in 
their place. I now led up Mrs. Bennett's ox, and 
Mr. Bennett helped his wife to mount the animal, on 
whose back as soft a seat as possible had been con- 
structed. Mrs. Arcane, in her ribbons, was now helped 
to her seat on the back of Old Brigham, and she care- 
fully adjusted herself to position, and arranged her 
dress and ornaments to suit, then took hold of the 



82 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

strap that served to hold on by as there were no bridles 
on these two. 

" Rogers led the march with his ox ; Bennett and I 
started the others along, and Arcane followed with 
Old Crump and the children. Bennett and Arcane 
took off their hats and bade the old camp good-by. 
The whole procession moved, and we were once more 
going towards our journey's end, we hoped. The road 
was sandy and soft, the grade practically level, and 
everything went well for about four miles, when the 
pack on one of the oxen near the lead got loose and 
turned over to one side, which he no sooner saw thus out 
of position, than he tried to get away from it by moving 
side wise. Not getting clear of the objectionable load in 
this way, he tried to kick it off, and thus really got 
his foot in it, making matters worse instead of better. 
Then he began a regular waltz and bawled at the top 
of his voice in terror. Rogers tried to catch him, but 
his own animal was so frisky that he could not hold 
him and do much else, and the spirit of fear soon 
began to be communicated to the others and the 
whole train seemed to be taken crazy, 

" They would jump up, and then come do\Mi, stick- 
ing their fore feet as far as possible into the sand, after 
which, with elevated tails, and terrible plunges, they 
would kick and thrash and run until the pack came off, 
when they stopped, apparently quite satisfied. 

" Mrs. Bennett slipped off her ox as quick as she 
could, grabbed her baby from the pocket on Old 
Crump, and shouting to Melissa and George to jump, 
got her family in safe position in pretty short order. 



MANLY AND ROGERS S3 

Arcane took his Charlie from the other pocket and 
laid him on the ground, while he devoted his own atten- 
tion to the animals. Mrs. Arcane's ox followed suit, 
and waltzed around in the sand, bawled at every turn 
fully as bad as any of the others, but Mrs. Arcane 
proved to be a good rider, and hard to unseat, cling- 
ing desperately to her strap as she was tossed up and 
down, and whirled about at a rate enough to make any 
one dizzy. Her many fme ribbons flew out behind 
like the streamers from a mast-head, and the many 
fancy ' fixins ' she had donned fluttered in the air in 
gayest mockery. Eventually she was throwTi however, 
but without the least injury to herself, but somewhat 
disordered in raiment. When I saw Bennett he was 
half bent over laughing in almost hysterical convulsions 
at the entirely impromptu circus which had so suddenly 
performed an act not on the program. Arcane was 
much pleased and laughed heartily when he saw no 
one was hurt. We did not think the cattle had so much 
life and so little sense as to waste their energies so 
uselessly. The little mule stepped out one side and 
looked on in amazement, without disarranging any 
article of her load." 

Thus tragedy and comedy elbowed each other on 
this wonderful journey. The little party soon got 
over their excitement, and in due time reached the 
place where Manly and Rogers had left the two 
horses. It was with much trepidation they approached 
this precipice, and a halt was made to enable a careful 
examination to be made. They finally decided to 
attempt it. Says Manly: 



84 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" We men all went down to the foot of the fall, and 
threw out all the large rocks, then piled up all the sand 
we could scrape together with the shovel, till we had 
quite a pile that u^ould tend to break the fall, 

" Early in the morning we took our soup hastily, and 
with ropes lowered our luggage over the small preci- 
pice, then the children, and fmally all the ropes were 
combined to make a single strong one about thirty feet 
long. They urged one of the oxen up to the edge of the 
fall, put the rope around his horns, and threw down 
the end to me, whom they had stationed below. I was 
told to pull hard when he started so that he might not 
Hght on his head and break his neck. We felt this 
was a desperate undertaking, and we fuUy expected 
to lose some of our animals, but our case was critical 
and we must take some chances. Bennett stood on one 
side of the ox, and Arcane on the other, while big 
Rogers was placed in the rear to give a regular Tennes- 
see boost when the word was given. ' Now for it,' said 
Bennett, and as I braced on the rope those above gave 
a push and the ox came over, sprawling, but landed 
safely, cut only a little by some angular stones in the 
sand pile. ' Good enough,' said some one, and I threw 
the rope back for another ox. * We'll get 'em all over 
safely,' said Arcane, ' if Lewis, down there, will keep 
them from getting their necks broken.' Lewis pulled 
hard every time, and not a neck was broken. The sand 
pile was renewed every time and made as high and 
soft as possible, and very soon all our animals were 
below the fall. The little mule gave a jump when they 
pushed her, and lighted squarely on her feet all right. 



MANLY AND ROGERS 85 

With the exception of one or two slight cuts, which 
bled some, the oxen were all right and we began loading 
them at once. 

" Bennett and .\rcane assisted their wives do^^^l along 
the little narrow ledge which we used in getting up, 
keeping theu: faces towards the rocky wall, and feeling 
carefully for every footstep. Thus they worked along 
and landed safely by the time we had the animals 
ready for the march. We had passed without disaster 
the obstacle we most feared, and started dowTi the 
rough canyon with hope revived, and we felt we should 
get through. After winding around among the great 
boulders for a little while, we came to the two horses 
we had left behind, both dead and near together. 
We pointed to the carcasses, and told them those were 
the horses we brought for the women to ride, and that is 
the way they were cheated out of their passage. The 
bodies of the animals had not been touched by bird or 
beast." 

While they still had an arduous and weary journey 
ahead of them, the worst of it was over, and they 
reached Los .\ngeles in safety and happiness, there to 
agam scatter and mingle with the life of the new State, 
and become a part of its future activities. 



CHAPTER XII 

THE UNKNOWN HEROES OF DEATH VALLEY 

IN the story of the Donner party, the horrors of 
snow and cold were revealed, m that out of the more 
than eighty people who camped there, but forty es- 
caped and reached the promised land of California. 

Manly and his party crossed Death Valley, and 
various members of his and preceding parties perished, 
but they were blessed in the fact that the winter, which 
brought cold and snow to the Donner party in the 
north, made their passage over the desert possible. 
For, in summer, only the most heat-hardened and 
experienced rriay dare attempt to cross Death Valley. 

It is known, however, that another party endeavored 
to accomplish this impossible journey in the heat of 
summer, and were caught in its merciless furnace so 
that not a single person escaped to tell the sad tale. 
Robert E. Rinehart, in the Los Angeles Times for 
Sunday, August i6, 1908, gives a graphic description, 
from which the following account is taken. 

" Three errors of judgment furnished Death Valley 
with the party that gave it its name. The lost wagon- 
train attempted to cross the desert and the valley in 
the height of summer. 

" Reaching the valley, the emigrants, ignorant of 
the preternatural dryness of the spot in summer. 



HEROES OF DEATH VALLEY 87 

entered the hot hollow with only an ordinary supply of 
water; and last and most fatal of all, instead of going 
south as the Jayhawkers had done, they went north. 
Yet their mistakes, outside the ill-chosen summer, were 
excusable. In truth their mistakes would normally 
have occurred to any party in the same position. The 
two serious errors had a large element of bad luck, a sort 
of Nemesis. The party was doomed. 

" But who were the members of this wretched party? 
Whence did they come? What friends and relatives 
had they abandoned in the East at the lure of California 
gold? 

" These are unanswered questions. A few names, 
alleged victims of this party, have been preserved by 
Death Valley tradition; but who can say tradition 
has been accurate? It has run riot with the number 
of victims. Sometimes the death toll is thirty; again 
it is thirteen. Indeed, little is known about the doomed 
wagon-train beyond its wretched climb of the Funeral 
Range, its pitiful, plucky progress dowTi Furnace Creek 
Canyon, its dreadful death march up the furnace-like 
valley and the horror of the end up among the desolate 
sand dunes of Death Valley. Overland history, bitter 
as it is with desert hardship and suffering, has no equal 
to this last chapter of the death party that named Death 
Valley. 

" Uncertainty shrouds the early movements of the 
ill-fated wagon-train. It probably set out from Salt 
Lake City some time in the early summer of 1850. 
Manifestly it was ill-advised and under poor guidance 
or it would never have attempted the southern trail 



8S HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

at that time of year. To all appearances no seasoned 
desert man was with it. But it had courage. This 
courage and its desert ignorance carried it far in face 
of great hardship and handicap — carried it to Death 
Valley and death. 

" Vague as was the early travel of these emigrants, 
their later trail is plain. In the great heat of the 
summer they reached Ash Meadows and the Amargossa 
Wash. Probably they had been drawn from the regu- 
lar trail by the wheel marks of the Jayhawkers and their 
followers. At Ash Meadows they found plenty of 
water, and in good condition and good spirits, still 
following the Jayhawker wagon ruts, set out for the 
divide over the Funeral Range clearly apparent ahead 
on the western horizon. 

" During this trip began their distress. The journey 
to the summit proved longer and steeper than it looked. 
The rough trail taxed the oxen cruelly, plodding along 
with the great lumbering wagons. The midsummer 
desert sun blazed hotter with every pull. It was a 
good forty-mile drag uphill. The last half was a bitter 
trail. 

" Here the doomed emigrants began to write their 
tragedy on the desert floor. The oxen from sheer 
exhaustion could not draw the heavy wagons. To 
lessen the loads, household articles were cast along the 
trail. Women as well as men walked beside the wagons. 

" In a deplorable state the party reached the summit 
from which the trail leading downward gave an easier 
way. But it had been on short water supply for many 
an hour, because since leaving Ash Meadows no water 



HEROES OF DEATH VALLEY 89 

was to be had. Water-famished, the emigrants toiled 
down Furnace Creek Wash. To add to their trials a 
band of Indians waylaid them at a bend in the wash 
and killed a number of their oxen. The emigrants 
beat off their assailants and plodded on down the 
trail, arriving finally at Furnace Creek Canyon; and 
at last, none too soon, at the rippling, rushing little 
Furnace Creek. The water was very hot, but it was 
good spring water and good Samaritan water to the 
distressed wagon-train. 

" That the party stopped a few days at Furnace 
Creek to recuperate is certain. From its scouts it 
learned that the canyon opened into a valley white-hot. 
It must have appreciated that the worst lay ahead, for 
which was needed every ounce of strength and forti- 
tude. It could not go back. It had to go forward into 
the unforbidding unknowTi. So one morning it stood 
at the Furnace Creek Canyon gateway and gazed out 
into the bowl-like Death Valley, red, fiery-red around 
the rim; white, withering- white at the bottom's dip. 

" The emigrants had the choice of the south or the 
north, safety or death. No Jayhawkers' wagon ruts 
were there to mark the way to the south and safety. 
That trail had been buried beneath the rocky spew 
flushed down Furnace Creek Canyon by the spring and 
summer cloudbursts. To the south lay the long length 
of the valley, with its glaring, ominous salt marsh. 
Banked on the other side was a seemingly unsurmount- 
able mountain range. To the north, around the rim 
of the valley, ran what seemed level ground for the 
wagons. True, far up in the north the hollow ended 



90 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

with an embankment of buttes. This was more or less 
discouraging, but beyond them the barricading 
mountain range appeared to break and give a passage 
out to the west. Moreover, the north way avoided the 
salt marsh. This way promised release. They chose 
the north, and death. 

" Appreciating the long burning road ahead, the 
emigrants filled every available keg, bucket, camp pot 
and kettle with water from Furnace Creek. They 
feared that water might run low in the toil up the valley. 
They reasoned that perhaps that water supply might 
have to hold over until the next day. With such a gen- 
erous store of it, however, they were more than hopeful 
of withstanding even the thirst attacks of two days. 
They reasoned well, for how could they know the 
deadly, sinister character of that deep hot hollow 
ahead ? 

" To understand the torture of that last day's travel, 
the unlooked-for vanishing of that generous supply 
of water, and the mysterious exhaustion of man and 
beast, one must know Death Valley in summer. One 
must know that this furnace spot, the lowest dry land 
in the western hemisphere, perhaps in the world, is 
also the most arid. The hot, withering desert winds, 
dry as an oven blast, blow into the south entrance 
of the valley and sweep northward as up a chimney. 
They blow over the surface of the sizzling salt marsh. 
These winds, already low in moisture, as they slip 
over the griddle-like marsh, are roasted. By the time 
they reach the north end of the valley they are destitute 
of moisture as a cinder. It is asserted that in August 



HEROES OF DEATH VALLEY 91 

the air at the north end of Death Valley has less than 
five per cent, humidity. When one considers that 
seventy per cent, humidity is pleasantly normal, the 
terrible strain of Death's Valley's five per cent, humidity 
can be rated for all its evil. A pedestrian cannot walk 
half a mile through this blasting atmosphere without 
several generous draughts of water. Desert nomads, 
seasoned desert travelers — for no others venture 
on a Death Valley tramp in summer — have drunk a 
gallon of water in going two miles. The arid air when 
drawn into the lungs fairly licks the moisture from the 
body's tissues. 

" Picture, then, the anguish of the day and night 
after the band of doomed emigrants set out from the 
mouth of Furnace Creek Canyon on their death march 
around the northeast segment of Death Valley. Along 
the broiling rocky floor the tired oxen, stumbling, 
dragged the wobbly wagons. Men and women in 
anguish tramped a trail so blistering that in these days 
a desert man wraps his feet in moistened sacks before 
he trusts himself to the same scorching way. The evil 
sun poured down its heat rays upon the travelers and 
shriveled their very skin. The withering desert air, 
breathed into their lungs, inflamed their tissues. Mental 
and bodily lassitude seized them. In helpless horror 
they saw their water store dwindling before the unre- 
strainable call of man and beast. Yet, driven by 
despair, that death party pushed on more than twenty- 
five miles through sun and sand, and at night camped 
beyond the North Buttes among the sand dunes. They 
reached their journey's objective point as planned in 



92 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the morning, and found ahead of them the divide 
through the Panamints. To this day they call the place 
Emigrants' Pass. But the emigrants never passed 
over it. 

" Wonderful was the persistent pluck of that doomed 
party. With an order worthy of bright promise rather 
than impending destruction, the men made their last 
camp. Wagons were backed into the regulation circle, 
their tongues pointing outward, and chains and ox- 
yokes laid out in approved overland fashion. The 
cattle were turned loose to rustle. Camp fires were Ht, 
built from the scant desert fuel. Supper was cooked 
and eaten, but it was a supper without water, for the 
supply was practically gone, and near the camp were 
no signs of water. Then all lay down in the mystery 
of the desert darkness. 

" In the gamut of desert hardship there is no horror 
such as the horror of a camp without water. Horses 
whine pitifully, and cattle bawl hoarsely in their efforts 
to make known the unspeakable thirst torture they do 
not understand. Fantasy plays with the restless nerves 
and minds of men and women, and drives them to 
delirium. Thirst- maddened, men and women shriek 
for water. On that dreadful night Death Valley's 
christening party drank the bitterest cup of human woe. 

" Wretched as was the night, the dawn that broke 
on the luckless camp was worse. Madness, thirst 
madness, had set in. Men and women in frenzy fled 
the camp, and scattered at random over the trackless 
sand waste in search of water. Some too weak to leave 
the wagons, abandoned by their fellows, perished 



HEROES OF DEATH VALLEY 93 

miserably in camp. Bookish altruism had vanished 
with the water. Fugitives flying in vain, a foe within 
them, scoured the sun-scorched sand of Lost Valley. 
The strongest reached the canyons of the Panamint 
Mountains, and found water, only to die of starvation 
in the valleys and mountains beyond. Others, crazed, 
came to the bitter ripples of Salt Creek and in their 
delirium gulped down the brackish, poisonous water. 
They died beside the stream. Lone wanderers, lost 
among the sand dunes, dropped in their steps and 
passed over the Great Divide. All round the sombre 
site of that last camp were strewn the shining skeletons 
of man and beast — skeletons, for the watchful coyotes 
saw to that." 



CHAPTER XIII 

THE WATCHFUL HERO SCOUTS, CARSON AND BEALE 

THERE are few more vivid pictures of the diffi- 
culties experienced in reaching CaHfornia in the 
early days than some of those published in the United 
States government reports of Lieutenant- Colonels W. 
H. Emory and P. St. George Cooke, and Captain A. R. 
Johnston, who marched from Santa Fe, via the Colo- 
rado Desert, as part of Kearny's Army of the West. 
With the earlier part of that journey we have nothing 
to do, except to state that, on the sixth of October, 1846, 
they met Kit Carson, the noted scout, who, with fifteen 
men, was on his way to Washington, bearing despatches 
from Colonel Fremont in California. 

Knowing Carson's ability as a guide and scout. 
General Kearny prevailed upon him to allow the 
despatches to be sent on by another messenger, in 
order that he might return with the invading army, 
which he accordingly did. 

As they came down the Gila River, and neared the 
Colorado, they discovered a band of five hundred 
horses being taken to Mexico, which they captured. 
Colonel Emory gives an interesting account of the 
way the native Californians handle these horses. " The 
captured horses were all wild and but little adapted 
for immediate service, but there was rare sport in 



CARSON AND BEALE 95 

catching them, and we saw for the first time the lasso 
thrown with inimitable skill. It is a saying in Chi- 
huahua that ' a Californian can throw the lasso as well 
with his foot as a Mexican can with his hand,' and 
the scene before us gave us an idea of its truth. There 
was a wild stallion of great beauty which defied the 
fleetest horse and the most expert rider. At length a 
boy of fourteen, a Californian, whose graceful riding 
was the constant subject of admiration, piqued by 
repeated failures, mounted a fresh horse, and, followed 
by an Indian, launched fiercely at the stallion. His 
riata darted from his hand with the force and precision 
of a rifle ball, and rested on the neck of the fugitive; 
the Indian, at the same moment, made a successful 
throw, but the stallion was too stout for both, and 
dashed off at full speed, with both ropes flying in the 
air like wings. The perfect representation of Pegasus, 
he took a sweep, and, followed by his pursuers, came 
thundering down the dry bed of the river. The lassos 
were now trailing on the ground, and the gallant young 
Spaniard, taking advantage of this circumstance, 
stooped from his flying horse, and caught one in his 
hand. It was the work of a moment to make it fast 
to the pommel of his saddle, and, by a short turn of 
his own horse, he threw the stallion a complete somer- 
sault, and the game was secure." 

Less than two weeks later, more mules and horses 
were captured, but, like those captured near the 
mouth of the Gila River, they were mostly unbroken, 
and not of much service. On the fifth of December, 
1846, they met Captain Gillespie, Lieutenant Beale 



96 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and thirty-five men, sent from San Diego with a des- 
patch to General Kearny, and the following day, at 
San Pasqual, they had an engagement with the Cali- 
fornians, in which eighteen officers and men were 
killed, and thirteen wounded. 

In the Life oj Carson, wTitten by Lieutenant-Colonel 
Dewitt C. Peters, there is a full account of this disas- 
trous struggle and the specific actions that induced me 
to give to Carson and Beale a chapter in this California 
Hero Book. Let me quote: " After being thus badly 
cut up, and with not more than one or two officers 
left who had not been wounded, while the men had 
been handled with equal severity, the Americans were 
obliged to take refuge at a point of rocks which chanced 
to be near where their advance had been defeated. A 
rally was made at this place. The Mexicans, however, 
did not venture to attack them. Both sides were ap- 
parently weary of fighting for that day. The firing 
ceased, and, soon after, night closed over the scene 
of the battle-field, 

" General Kearny's care now was to attend to the 
wounded. There was no rest for his command that 
night, as, during the hours of darkness, his men were 
busy interring their dead and looking after the wants of 
the sufferers. A sharp lookout, also, was kept on 
the movements of the enemy, who were continually re- 
ceiving reinforcements. A council of war was held 
in the American camp, when General Kearny, after 
taking the advice of his remaining officers, decided to 
move on early in the morning, with the hope of meeting 
reinforcements. He had despatched three men as 




THE RANCHO CHICO, 1854, JOHN BIDVVEXL's HOME. 

Pages Ji'>-55 






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aui^ct '^vt^ ir^^^<^ ^cy>^^'^^ 

^p^^ ^.£rt ^'^^^t^*"^ 




JOHN BIDWELL S FIRST CATTLE BRAND. 




George U'haiton Jinncs. Phot . 

JUAN BAUTISTA DK ANZA's HOUSE^ TUBAC, ARIZONA. 



Page n 




DONNER PARTY MEMORIAL CROSS, NEAR DONNER LAKE, 
CALIFORNIA. 

Pages 56-73 



CARSON AND BEALE 97 

bearers of despatches to Commodore Stockton at San 
Diego before the battle; but, whether they had been 
successful or not in reaching the commodore, the 
general did not know. Just before the late fight, they 
had returned to within sight of their friends, when they 
were taken prisoners by the Mexicans. 

" The order of the march on the following day was 
as follows: Kit Carson, with a command of twenty-five 
men, proceeded in the advance, while the remainder of 
the now very much crippled band of soldiers followed 
after on the trail made by their guide. Steadily and 
compactly these brave men moved forward, being 
continually in expectancy of a charge from the enemy, 
who would show themselves, from time to time, on the 
neighboring hills, and then again, for a time, disap- 
pear. 

" During the previous day, a Mexican lieutenant 
had his horse shot from under him, and he himself 
had been taken prisoner. On a favorable opportunity 
occurring. General Kearny ordered the ' halt ' to be 
sounded, when, through a flag of truce, he asked a 
parley. It being granted, he succeeded in making 
an exchange of the lieutenant for one of his des- 
patch-bearers. He gained nothing by this, for the 
man stated that he and his companions had found it 
impossible to reach their point of destination, and 
hence they had turned back. 

" The manceuvTing on the part of the Mexicans, 
which we have alluded to as consisting of making 
temporary stands on the hills, and then changing 
their positions as the Americans drew near to them. 



98 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

continued for the greater part of the day. Finally, 
as General Kearny and his men were approaching 
the water, where they intended to camp, and were not 
over five hundred yards from it, down came the Mexi- 
cans, divided into two separate commands, for the 
purpose of making a charge. Tl-rey were at first 
warmly received by the Americans, who, after a time, 
were obliged to give way to superior numbers; but, 
in doing so, they retreated in good order to a hill about 
two hundred yards to their left. Here they halted, 
and determined to decide the battle; but the wary 
Mexicans, on seeing the strength of the position taken 
by their foes, declined to attack them, and drew off 
to a neighboring height, from which they commenced 
and maintained a deadly fire on the Americans, Cap- 
tains Emory and Turner, with all the available dragoons, 
were sent to dislodge them. This they did in splendid 
style, after a sharp encounter, and, when their com- 
panions saw them take possession of this position, 
General Kearny, with all his wounded and luggage- 
trains, joined them there. Here a permanent resting- 
place, for the time being, was made. In fact, the men 
had no other choice, as they were now pretty effec- 
tually used up from fighting, severe loss, and fatigue. 
The Americans found on this hill water barely suffi- 
cient for their own use, and were obliged to exclude 
the idea of sharing it with their animals. Although 
within sight of abundance of this much-needed article, 
yet they did not dare to drive the latter to it, for they 
were too weak to defend them from the assaults of 
the enemy. 



CARSON AND BEALE 99 

" The situation of General Kearny's force was 
now critical in the extreme, as, besides the dangers 
that surrounded him, the men were reduced to living 
on their mules. That afternoon, another council of 
war was called, at w^hich desperate efforts to be made 
for immediate relief were discussed. When every 
spark of hope had almost died within them, and w^hen 
they were in a dilemma as to what still remained for 
them to do. Kit Carson . . . arose and said he was willing 
to make the attempt of creeping through the Mexican 
lines. Should he succeed, he pledged his word that 
he would carry information to Commodore Stockton 
at San Diego, and thus bring them succor. No sooner 
had he made this proposition than he was seconded by 
Lieutenant Beale, then of the United States Navy, 
who, equally as brave and daring as Carson, volun- 
teered his services in the undertaking. 



" General Kearny at once accepted the noble and 
generous offers of these two men, knowing that if he 
waited until the following day and then attempted to 
leave the hill, the consequences w^ould be most dis- 
astrous; for, in so doing, a sanguinary battle must 
certainly ensue, with the chances greatly against him. 
Having made the few preparations necessary, Kit 
Carson and Lieutenant Beale waited the setting in of 
night, under the cover of which they had both resolved 
to succeed in the performance of their mission or die 
in the attempt. Having got well under way, and while 
stealthily crawling over the rocks and brush, they found 



loo HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

their shoes would often, even with the greatest prevent- 
ative care bemg taken, strike agamst the various im- 
pediments to their progress and make sounds which 
might lead to their detection. To avoid this they took 
them off and pushed them under their belts. Slowly, 
but surely, they evaded the vigilant guard of the Mexi- 
can sentinels, whom they found to be mounted and three 
rows deep, evidehtly being determined not to be eluded. 
So near would they often come to these Mexican 
sentinels, that but a few yards would measure the 
distance between them and their enemies, yet, with 
brave hearts, they crept along over the ground foot by 
foot; they were almost safe beyond these barriers, 
when all their hopes came near being dashed to pieces. 
This alarm was caused by one of the sentinels riding 
up near to where they were, dismounting from his 
horse and lighting, by his flint and steel, his cigarette. 
On seeing this, Kit Carson, who was just ahead of 
Lieutenant Beale, pushed back his foot and kicked 
softly his companion, as a signal for him to lie flat 
on the ground as he (Carson) was doing. The Mexican 
was some time, being apparently very much at his 
leisure, in lighting his cigarette; and, during these 
moments of suspense, so quietly did Kit Carson and his 
companion lie on the ground, that Carson said, and 
always after affirmed, that he could distinctly hear 
Lieutenant Beale's heart pulsate. 

" Who can describe the agony of mind to which 
these brave hearts were subjected during this severe 
trial ? Everything — the lives of their friends as well 
as their own — so hung on chance, that they shud- 



CARSON AND BE ALE loi 

dered; not at the thought of dying, but for fear they 
would fail in accomplishing what w-as dearer to them 
than life, the rescue of the brave men whose lives 
hung on their success. After quite a long time, the 
Mexican, as if guided by the hand of Providence, 
mounted his horse and made off in a contrary direc- 
tion from the one where these bold adventurers were 
biding their time to accept either good, if possible, or 
evil, if necessary, from the wheel of Fortune. For a 
distance of about two miles, Kit Carson and Lieutenant 
Beale thus walked along on their hands and knees. 
Continually, during this time, Kit Carson's eagle 
eye was penetrating through the darkness, ever on the 
alert to discover whatever obstacle might present itself 
on which was stamped the least appearance of danger. 
Having passed the last visible image in the shape of a 
sentinel and left the lines behind them at a suitable 
distance, both men regained their feet, and once more 
breathed freely. Their first thought was to look for 
their shoes, but, alas, they were gone. In the excite- 
ment of the journey, they had not given them a thought 
since depositing them beneath their belts. Hardly a 
word had hitherto passed between these two compan- 
ions in danger, but now they spoke hurriedly and con- 
gratulated each other on the success that had so far 
attended them, and thanked God in their hearts that 
He had so mercifully aided them. There was no time 
for delay, as they were by no means free from danger, 
though they thought the worst was over. Kit Carson 
was familiar with the country, and well knew the 
necessity of avoiding, for fear of being discovered, 



I02 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

all the well-trodden trails and roads which lead to San 
Diego, every one of which was closely watched by the 
enemy. He chose a circuitous route, over rocks, hills 
and vdld lands. The soil was lined with the prickly 
pear, the thorns of which were penetrating, at almost 
every step, deep into their bare feet, which, owing to 
the darkness and thickness of the plants, they could 
not avoid. The town of San Diego was located many 
miles in a straight line from the point from whence they 
had started, but, by the roundabout route they were 
obliged to travel, this distance was much lengthened. 
All the following day they continued their tramp and 
made as much progress as possible. Their mental 
excitement kept them in good spirits, though, from 
previous fatigue, the want of food during this time, 
and by the rapid pace at which they were traveling, 
they were putting their physical powers to their full 
test. Another night closed in around them, yet ' on- 
ward ' was their watchword, for they thought not of 
rest while those behind them were in such imminent 
peril. Kit Carson's only compass was his eye, which 
served him so well that soon the dark outlines of the 
houses of San Diego could just be discerned. Both 
men were ready to leap for joy. They were challenged 
by the American sentinels about the town, and an- 
swered in pure English, ' Friends,' which same English 
was unmistakable proof to the guard from whence they 
came. On stating their important business, they 
were conducted into the presence of Commodore 
Stockton, to whom they related what we have tried 
to describe. Commodore Stockton, with his usual 



CARSON AND BEALE 103 

promptitude, immediately detailed a command of about 
one hundred and seventy men to make forced marches 
in order to reach and relieve their besieged country- 
men. With as much despatch as possible, this force set 
out, taking with them a heavy piece of ordnance, which, 
for want of animals, the men themselves were obliged 
to draw, by attaching ropes to it. Kit Carson did not 
return with them, for it was considered that he had 
seen service enough for the present; besides, his feet 
were badly swollen and inflamed from the rough usage 
they had recently been obliged to submit to. He 
graphically described the position of General Kearny, 
so that the relief party could have no difficulty in 
finding him. He remained to recruit in San Diego. 
. . . Unused then to such hardships and mental excite- 
ments on land, as was his more experienced companion. 
Lieutenant Beale, from the trials of the service per- 
formed, became partially deranged; and for treatment 
was sent on board the frigate Congress, which ship lay 
in the harbor, being one of the vessels attached to the 
commodore's fleet. Two long years elapsed before 
the gallant lieutenant fully recovered from the effects of 
this adventure, which, for the bravery and unselfishness 
evinced in its planning, and the boldness with which it 
was carried out, without mentioning the good results 
it produced, was not excelled by any feat performed 
during the Mexican War." 



CHAPTER XIV 

SAILOR HEROES OF PIONEER TIMES 

IN the days of '48 and '49, when gold seekers were 
pouring into California by every possible route 
and method, many came by sea. There were no float- 
ing palaces then upon the Pacific Ocean, whatever 
may have been the style of the steamers coursing up 
and down the Mississippi River. And the sailing 
vessels that rounded Cape Horn were often the victims 
of storms and other perils that not only endangered 
the lives of the voyagers, but often destroyed them. 

In Dana's Two Years before the Mast, — a classic 
which every California boy and girl should not only 
read but possess in his or her o\\ti private library — 
are some vivid pictures of perils suffered on the sea 
voyage to California. When Dana returned to New 
England, he went in the Alert, and on September 21, 
1836, he arrived in Boston, There he published his 
book, containing his diary of the trip. 

In 1840, under another captain, W. D. Phelps, the 
Alert again arrived in Monterey, and continued to sail 
back and forth between New England and California, 
so that, when Fremont arrived and needed help, 
Phelps was able to render it in a most effective manner. 
Captain Phelps kept a diary, in several manuscript 
volumes, and these are now in my possession. From 



SAILOR HEROES 105 

them I extract the following description of a storm 
which struck the Alert near Santa Barbara. It is a 
nautical man's description of an experience which 
was often visited upon the pioneers, and which demon- 
strates that the Pacific Ocean was not (and is not) always 
as pacific as is its name. 

" At 4 P. M. tacked ship to the south and west. At 
8 the weather looked favorable for a moderate 
night. Tacked inshore. At 10, perceiving a sudden 
and considerable fall of the barometer, wore ship 
immediately and stood off shore, carrying all possible 
sail to make an offing, as the signs of a coming gale 
were now too strong to be neglected. The ship was 
under double reef topsails, fore and main courses, top- 
mast staysail, and a main spencer. At a quarter past 
eleven the gale was fast increasing, the sea making 
a breach over fore and aft and the ship straining hard; 
took in the mainsail as it was impossible to carry it 
any longer. As heaving the ship to at this time would 
cause her to drift dead on a lee shore and her fate (if not 
that of all hands) would be sealed before morning, I de- 
termined that the remaining sail must be kept on her until 
we had gathered sufficient offing to give her a clear drift, 
or the sails and spars must be allowed to blow away. 
At a quarter before midnight, the gale was very severe, 
the squalls and wind so violent that it was impossible 
to look to windward. The ship was madly driving and 
plunging into a frightful sea, but still making good 
progress from the land. All hands were stationed 
at their posts to act as occasion required, and many an 
inward prayer was breathed that the sails and spars 



io6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

would outlive the violence of the gale, or at least until 
they had placed us in a safe position. They performed 
their duty as well as expected but not so well as hoped 
for. A few minutes before twelve the fore topsail 
yard broke in the middle, and while securing the sail, 
which was also split, a fearful noise of tearing accom- 
panied with a loud report as of a gun told us that the 
main topsail had also taken leave of the yard. 

" After about two hours' severe toil the remnants 
of the two topsails were secured, and the broken yard 
lashed aloft; the mizzen topsail was safely furled. 
The topmast staysail had blown to fragments. At 
this time (2 A, M.) the gale had increased to such a 
height that it seemed impossible for it to blow harder. 
The sea also was tremendous. Still the foresail and 
and maiil spencer held on, the ship rolling, and plung- 
ing and drifting dead to leeward. We had done all that 
could be done to ensure the safety of the ship, and now 
all we could do was to let her drift and anticipate the 
fearful result. Part of the crew and officers were 
now sent below to secure the casks, boxes, etc., which 
had broken loose and were in commotion under deck, 
while the rest were looking out for the breakers of a 
lee shore. At this time I retired to the cabin to deter- 
mine the position of the ship with regard to the land, 
and found that my passengers were silently and with 
great anxiety, no doubt, preparing themselves for the 
worst. Ungrateful indeed was the task of setting off 
the ship's place on the chart and painful the discovery 
that we had not over twenty miles drift in the direction 
we were now rapidly going. I knew that the passengers 



SAILOR HEROES 107 

were anxiously watching my every loolc. I controlled 
my feelings as much as possible, but dared not look them 
in the face lest they might read something there that 
would not add to their comfort. To their inquiries of 
our prospects, I could only say that we must hope for a 
favorable change. We were heading S. W. and with the 
lee way and variation were making a N, W. course. 
In this direction and at the distance of about 15 or 18 
miles lay Pt. San Pedro, a high headland with dan- 
gerous rocks near it, to the west of which the barred 
entrance of San Francisco denied us entrance on ac- 
count of the tremendous sea which was now rolling 
over it, threatening destruction to any ship that should 
approach it. W. N. W. of us were the rocky islets of 
the Faralloncs — which are dangerous to approach 
even in fine weather — and should we fortunately drift 
clear of these, a few miles further we must bring up 
on the ragged headland of Punto-de-los Reyes. I 
returned to the deck after recommending ourselves 
to the protection of Him who alone ' rides on the tem- 
pest and directs the storm,' and making what arrange- 
ments the occasion seemed to require, as calmly as 
possible, awaited the results, expecting to hear the 
dreadful breakers any moment. Until that appalling 
event should occur, I deferred informing the crew 
of their situation. But, oh the intense agony of feel- 
ing produced by a dark stormy night and the horrors 
of a lee shore — none can know like him on whom 
rests the sole responsibility of managing the ship 
in which are many precious lives. It is at such a time 
that a single night will do the work of years in a man's 



io8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

age. At 6 A. m. the day broke, but the gale still raged 
in all its fury; the land could not be seen, as the gloom 
was thick and the rain descended in torrents. Our 
first object was to get down the fragments of the main 
topsail and bend a new one. This we accomplished, 
and at 8 o'clock a close-reefed main topsail brought the 
ship more head to the sea, and relieved her very much. 
After the refreshment of some hot coffee and a slight 
breakfast — of which I could not partake — we again 
turned to and sent down the wTeck of the fore topsail 
yard and sail, and as all this work had to be done in 
the teeth of a severe gale, it occupied us until noon. 

1 now judged that it was impossible to be more than 

2 or 3 miles from the land, and I imagined every 
moment I could ' hear the warning voice of the lee shore, 
speaking in breakers,' when, of a sudden, we were 
taken hard aback by the westerly wind, blowing off 
shore, and shortly a clear sky showed us that we were 
distant from the breakers about ten miles, but that 
the direction in which we were drifting would have 
enabled us to keep off shore about 12 hours longer, had 
the gale continued. Thanks to a merciful and prayer- 
hearing God, we were preserved from wreck, and in 
the afternoon got up a new topsail yard, bent new sails, 
and, at sunset, when the sea had subsided, bore away 
with fair wind and an unclouded and beautiful evening, 
for Monterey. At midnight hove to, to wait for day- 
light." 



CHAPTER XV 

THE RECKLESS HERO OF INDIAN FAME, JAMES P. 
BECKWOURTH 

TTIGH up in the list of pioneer scouts must be 
^ -■■ placed the name and fame of James P. Beck- 
wourth. Of reckless daring and undaunted courage, 
he won a recognized position in his own day and a 
fame which time will not dim. There is some doubt 
as to his birth, but it is sure that there was some negro 
blood in his veins, and this gave him enough of an 
Indian appearance to enable him — whenever he 
wished to do so — to pass himself off as an Indian. 
The extent and character of his adventures were such 
that many people have been inclined to doubt them, 
but Leland, who edited an English edition of his Life, 
says : 

" My own honest opinion of the work is that it is 
true in the main, simply because it was impossible 
for its hero to have lived through the life which other 
sources prove that he experienced, and not have met 
with quite as extraordinary adventures as those which 
he describes. Life is, even to this day (1891), as excit- 
ing and as full of peril in some parts of America as is 
possible," and he tells a story which was given to him 
by a reliable eye witness, which Beckwourth had not 
related in his memoirs. The story is as follows: 



no HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" I do not think that Beckwourth was ever head chief 
among the Crow Indians, though I dare say he made 
himself out to be such ; but that he was really a sub-chief 
is true, for I myself was on the ground when they made 
him one — and a strange sight it was. Beckwourth 
was a very powerful man — he had been a blacksmith 

— and he certainly was a desperately brave fighter. 

" A very large grizzly bear had been driven into 
a cave, and Beckwourth asked of a great number of 
Crows who were present whether any of them would 
go in and kUl the creature. All declined, for it seemed 
to be certain death. Then Beckwourth stripped him- 
self naked, and ^vrapping a Mexican blanket around 
his left arm, and holding a strong, sharp knife, he en- 
tered the cave, and after a desperate fight, killed the 
bear. I came up to the place in time to see Beckwourth 
come out of the cave, all torn and bleeding. He looked 
like an evil demon if ever man did. The Crows were 
so much pleased at this that he was declared a sub- 
chief on the spot." 

Beckwourth was born in Fredericksburg, Virginia, 
in 1798. In 1854-1855 T. D. Bonner — a wanderer 
in the mountains of California — found him there, 
became interested in his story and wrote it. In his 
preface Bonner says: 

" After ten thousand adventures, Beckwourth finally 
became involved in the human stream that set toward 
the Pacific, and, almost unconsciously, he established 
a home in one of the pleasant valleys that border on 
Feather River. Discovering a pass in the mountains 

— now incorrectly known as Beckwith Pass — that fa- 



JAMES P. BECKWOURTH iii 

cilitated emigrants in reaching California, his house 
became a stopping-place for the weary and dispirited 
among them, and no doubt the associations thus pre- 
sented have done much to efface his natural disposition 
to wander and seek excitement among the Indian 
tribes." 

I have heard Miss Ina Coolbrith, the poet, tell the 
story of the meeting between the party in which were her 
father and his family (herself of the number), and Beck- 
wourth. The party had traveled for months over the 
plains and now, tattered in garments, wearied in body, 
harassed in mind, sun-burned and weather-beaten, 
they had reached the place where the plains ended and 
the steep mountain chain of the Sierras towered before 
them. Indians were dogging their footsteps, and the 
little girl, supposed to be asleep in the wagon, heard 
the men talking of the possibility of attack ; and there, 
wide-eyed and full of alarm at danger, the full extent 
of which she did not begin to comprehend, she lay and 
trembled, watching such shadows as were cast and 
imagining them the outward signs of the horrors she 
felt within. Then Beckwourth came to their relief. 
He offered to guide the party through his recently 
discovered pass to Spanish Ranch in Plumas County. 
Well does she remember his coming. Like a picture 
that one is not sure one has seen or only dreamed of, 
he appears to her mental vision now. A dark-faced 
man, something like a mulatto, with long, braided 
hair reaching down to his shoulders, dressed in beaded 
buckskin, with moccasins on his feet, and no hat upon 
his head, he rode into the camp. His horse was half- 



112 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

saddled, as Indians used to ride in that day. His voice 
was strong and masterful but pleasant to the ears of 
the child, for, as soon as he saw there were children 
in the train, he took sweetmeats from his pockets and 
a bag he had on his saddle, and began to distribute 
them, saying words that cheered the youngsters and 
made his appearance and dress only the peculiarities 
of a hero. When he saw Ina and her two little brothers, 
the boys in their short dresses, tears came into his eyes 
and he said, " God! they're the sweetest things in 
life." Then he began to talk to Airs. Pickett (Miss Cool- 
brith's mother) of the great attraction children were to 
him. What a romantic figure he made riding ahead 
and leading the train, and how happy the little Ina felt 
to have him by and by come back to her father's wagon, 
reach over and lift her up to a place in front of him on 
his saddle, and then go on again to the front. 

No romance can be more interesting than the record 
of Beckwourth's life on the border in the early day, and 
it belongs peculiarly to young Californians to read 
and enjoy it. Of all Beckwourth's early adventures, 
I have no room here to speak. He was once paid an 
annual salary by the United States government (it is 
said two thousand dollars) to keep the Crow tribe 
from molesting the whites who were crossing the plains. 
Several times he was on the United States pay-roll as 
a scout. For a time he was an Indian trader. He was 
about fifty years old when he reached California and 
settled down. The following is a part of his story: 

" I was now inactive for some time again, and occu- 
pied my leisure m ramblmg about the environs of 



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DONNER LAKE, CALIFORNIA. 



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GENERAL VIEW OK THE COLORADO DESERT. 




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JAMES P. BECKWOURTH 113 

Monterey. I then engaged in the service of the com- 
missariat at Monterey, to carry despatches from thence 
to Captain Denney's ranch, where I was met by another 
carrier. On my road lay the mission of San ^Miguel, 
owned by a ]Mr. Reed, an Englishman; and, as his 
family was a very interesting one, I generally made his 
home my resting-place. On one of my visits, arriving 
about dusk, I entered the house as usual, but was 
surprised to see no one stirring. I walked about a little 
to attract attention, and no one coming to me, I stepped 
into the kitchen to look for some of the inmates. On 
the floor I saw some one lying do^^•n, asleep, as I sup- 
posed. I attempted to arouse him with my foot, but he 
did not stir. This seemed strange, and my apprehen- 
sions became excited; for the Indians were very 
numerous about, and I was afraid some mischief had 
been done. I returned to my horse for my pistols, 
then, lighting a candle, I commenced a search. In 
going along a passage, I stumbled over the body of a 
woman; I entered a room, and found another, a mur- 
dered Indian woman, who had been a domestic. I was 
about to enter another room, but I was arrested by some 
sudden thought which urged me to search no farther. 
It was an opportune admonition, for that very room 
contained the murderers of the family, who had heard 
my steps, and were sitting at that moment with their 
pistols pointed to the door, ready to shoot the first 
person who entered. This they confessed subsequently. 
" Thinking to obtain farther assistance, I mounted 
my horse and rode to the nearest ranch, a distance of 
twenty-four miles, where I procured fifteen Mexicans 



114 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and Indians, and returned with them the same night to 
the scene of the tragedy^ On again entering the house, 
we found eleven bodies all throwoi together in one pile 
for the purpose of consuming them; for, on searching 
further, we found the murderers had set fire to the 
dwelling; but, according to that Providence which ex- 
poses such wicked deeds, the fire had died out. 

" Fastening up the house, we returned immediately 
back to the ranch from which I had started with my 
party, making seventy-two miles I rode that night. 
As soon as I could obtain some rest, I started, in com- 
pany v^th the alcalde, for San Luis Obispo, where, it was 
believed, we could get assistance in capturing the mur- 
derers. Forty men in detached parties, moving in dif- 
ferent directions, went in pursuit. It was my fortune 
to find the trail, and with my party of six men I man- 
aged to head off the suspected murderers so as to come 
up vdth them in the road from directly the opposite 
direction from Reed's. When I came opposite, one of 
the men sang out, ' Good day, senors.' I replied, but 
kept on riding in a lope. 

" The bandits, thro\\Ti entirely off their guard, 
insisted upon .entering into conversation; so I had a 
fair opportunity of marking them all, and discovering 
among them a horse belonging to the unfortunate 
Reed. I then rode to Santa Barbara, a distance of 
forty miles, and, with a party of twenty men, started 
boldly in pursuit. After much hard travel, we finally 
came upon the gang, encamped for the night. Without 
a moment's hesitation, we charged on them, and gave 
a volley of rifles, which killed one, and wounded all 



JAMES P. BECKWOURTH 115 

the others, save an American, named Dempsey. The 
villains fought like tigers, but were finally mastered 
and made prisoners. 

" Dempsey turned State's evidence. He stated that, 
on the night of the murder, his party stopped at Reed's ; 
that Reed told them that he had just returned from 
the mines, whereupon it was determined to kill the 
whole family and take his gold, which turned out to 
be the pitiful sum of one thousand dollars. After the 
confession of Dempsey, we shot the murderers, along 
with the ' State's evidence,' and thus ended the lives 
of fourteen villains, who had committed the most 
diabolical deed that ever disgraced the annals of 
frontier life." 

For four months he engaged in this messenger 
service and then traded in the mines at Sonora for 
awhile, then in Sacramento, and finally proceeded to 
Greenwood Valley, in the Sierras, to establish his 
winter quarters. Unfortunately, he was seized with 
rheumatism, and this gave him a great deal of trouble 
that winter; yet it did not diminish his love of adven- 
ture, as the following story proves: 

" Before I was able to get about, I was called on by 
the inhabitants to go several miles to shoot a grizzly 
bear, and as I was unable to walk the distance, several 
of them volunteered to carry me. The bear was in the 
habit of walking past a row of cabins every morning 
on his return to his den, he having issued forth the 
preceding night to procure his evening meal. They 
had fired several shots at Bruin as he passed, but he 
had never deigned to pay any attention to the molesta- 



ii6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

tion. I mounted a horse, and rode some distance along 
his customary path, until I came to a tree which offered 
a fair shelter, to await his approach. I placed my 
back against it as a support while I awaited his coming, 
the neighbors drawing off to a safe distance to witness 
the sport. By and by grizzly came in sight, walking 
along as independently as an alderman-elect. I allowed 
him to approach till he was within twenty paces, 
when I called out to him; he stopped suddenly, and 
looked around to ascertain whence the sound pro- 
ceeded. As he arrested himself, I fired, and the ball 
entered his heart. He advanced ten or fifteen paces 
before he fell; the observers shouted to me to run, 
they forgetting in their excitement that I had not 
strength to move. The bear never stirred from where 
he fell, and he expired without a groan. "When dressed, 
he weighed over fourteen hundred pounds." 

After recounting, with many details, one of his 
experiences in trading with a demoralized band of 
Indians, he concludes: 

" This trading whisky for Indian property is one 
of the most infernal practices ever entered into by man. 
Let the reader sit down and figure up the profits on a 
forty-gallon cask of alcohol, and he will be thunder- 
struck, or rather whisky-struck. When disposed of, 
four gallons of water are added to each gallon of al- 
cohol. In two hundred gallons there are sixteen hun- 
dred pints, for each one of which the trader gets a 
buffalo robe worth five dollars! The Indian women 
toil many long weeks to dress these sixteen hundred 
robes. The white trader gets them all for worse than 



JAMES P. BECKWOURTH 117 

nothing, for the poor Indian mother hides herself and 
her children in the forests until the effect of the poison 
passes away from the husbands, fathers, and brothers, 
who love them when they have no whisky, and abuse 
and kill them when they have. Six thousand dollars 
for sixty gallons of alcohol. Is it a wonder that, with 
such profits in prospect, men get rich who are engaged 
in the fur trade? Or is it a miracle that the poor 
buffalo arc becoming gradually exterminated, being 
killed with so little remorse that their very hides, 
among the Indians themselves, are known by the ap- 
pellation of a pint of whisky? " 

As a matter of record, it is well to preserve Beck- 
wourth's own account of the discovery and history 
of the pass that bears his name. He was going from 
American Valley up to the home of the Pitt River 
Indians at the time. Says he: 

" While on this excursion, I discovered what is now 
known as ' Beckwourth's Pass ' in the Sierra Nevada.' 
From some of the elevations over which w^e passed 
I remarked a place far away to the southward that 
seemed low^er than any other. I made no mention of 
it to my companion, but thought that at some future 
time I would examine into it farther. I continued on 
to Shasta with my fellows-traveler, and returned after 
a fruitless journey of eighteen days. 

" After a short stay in the American Valley, I again 
started out with a prospecting party of twelve men. 
We killed a bullock before starting and dried the meat, 
in order to have provisions to last us during the trip. 

' It is marked on the maps and locally known as Beckwith's Pass. 



ii8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

We proceeded in an easterly direction, and all busied 
themselves in searching for gold; but my errand was 
of a different character ; I had come to discover what I 
suspected to be a pass. 

" It was the latter end of April when we entered 
upon an extensive valley at the northwest extremity 
of the Sierra Range. The valley was already robed 
in freshest verdure, contrasting most delightfully with 
the huge snow-clad masses of rock we had just left. 
Flowers of every variety and hue spread their variegated 
charms before us; magpies were chattering, and gor- 
geously-plumaged birds were carolling in the delights 
of unmolested solitude. Swarms of wild geese and 
ducks were swimming on the surface of the cool, 
crystal stream, which was the central fork of the Rio 
de las Plumas, or sailed the air in clouds over our heads. 
Deer and antelope fiUed the plains, and their boldness 
was conclusive that the hunter's rifle was to them 
unknown. Nowhere visible were any traces of the 
white man's approach, and it is probable that our steps 
were the first that ever marked the spot. We struck 
across this beautiful valley to the waters of the Yuba, 
from thence to the waters of the Truchy (Truckee), 
which latter flowed in an easterly direction, telling 
us we were on the eastern slope of the mountain range. 
This, I at once saw, would afford the best wagon-road 
into the American Valley approaching from the east- 
ward, and I imparted my views to three of my com- 
panions in whose judgment I placed the most confidence. 
They thought highly of the discovery, and even proposed 
to associate with me in opening the road. We also 



JAMES P. BECKWOURTH 119 

found gold, but not in suflEicient quantity to warrant 
our working it; and, furthermore, the ground was too 
wet to admit of our prospecting to any advantage. 

" On my return to the American Valley, I made 
known my discovery to a Mr. Turner, proprietor of 
the American Ranch, who entered enthusiastically 
into my views; it was a thing, he said, he had never 
dreamed of before. If I could but carry out my plan, 
and divert travel into that road, he thought I should 
be a made man for life. Thereupon he drew up a 
subscription list, setting forth the merits of the 
project, and showing how the road could be made 
practicable to Bidwell's Bar, and thence to Marysville, 
which latter place would derive peculiar advantages 
from the discovery. He headed the subscription with 
two hundred dollars. 

" When I reached Bidwell's Bar and unfolded my 
project, the town was seized with a perfect mania for 
the opening of the route. The subscriptions toward 
the fund required for its accomplishment amounted to 
five hundred dollars. I then proceeded to Marysville, 
a place which would unquestionably derive greater 
benefit from the newly-discovered route than any other 
place on the way, since this must be the entrepot or prin- 
cipal starting-place for emigrants. I communicated 
with several of the most influential residents on the 
subject in hand. They also spoke very encouragingly 
of my undertaking, and referred me before all others 
to the mayor of the city. Accordingly, I waited upon 
that gentleman (a Mr. Miles), and brought the matter 
under his notice, representing it as being a legitimate 



120 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

matter for his interference, and offering substantial 
advantages to the commercial prosperity of the city. 
The mayor entered warmly into my views, and pro- 
nounced it as his opinion that the profits resulting 
from the speculation could not be less than from six to 
ten thousand dollars; and as the benefits accruing 
to the city would be incalculable, he would ensure my 
expenses while engaged upon it. 

" I mentioned that I should prefer some guarantee 
before entering upon my labors, to secure me against 
loss of what money I might lay out. 

" ' Leave that to me,' said the mayor; * I will attend 
to the whole affair. I feel confident that a subject 
of so great importance to our interests will engage the 
earliest attention,' 

" I thereupon left the whole proceeding in his hands, 
and, immediately setting men to work upon the road, 
went out to Truckee to turn emigration into my newly- 
discovered route. While thus busily engaged I was 
seized with erysipelas, and abandoned all hopes of 
recovery; I was over one hundred miles away from 
medical assistance, and my only shelter was a brush 
tent. I made my will, and resigned myself to death. 
Life still lingered in me, however, and a train of wagons 
came up, and encamped near to where I lay. I was 
reduced to a very low condition, but I saw the drivers, 
and acquainted them with the object that had brought 
me out there. They offered to attempt the new road 
if I thought myself sufficiently strong to guide them 
through it. The women, God bless them! came to 
my assistance, and through their kind attentions and 



JAMES P. BECKWOURTH 121 

excellent nursing I rapidly recovered from my linger- 
ing sickness, until I was soon able to mount my horse, 
and lead the first train, consisting of seventeen wagons, 
through ' Beckwourth's Pass.' We reached the American 
Valley without the least accident, and the emigrants 
expressed entire satisfaction with the route. I returned 
with the train through Marysville, and on the intelli- 
gence being communicated of the practicabiHty of my 
road, there was quite a pubhc rejoicing. A northern 
route had been discovered, and the city had received 
an impetus that would ad\'ance her beyond all her sisters 
on the Pacific shore. I felt proud of my achievement, 
and was foolish enough to promise myself a substantial 
recognition of my labors. 

" I was destined to disappointment, for that same 
night Aiarysville was laid in ashes. The mayor of 
the ruined town congratulated me upon bringing a 
train through. He regretted that their recent calamity 
had placed it entirely beyond his power to obtain for 
me any substantial reward. With the exception of 
some two hundred dollars subscribed by some liberal- 
minded citizens of Marysville, I ha^•c received no 
indemnification for the money and labor I have ex- 
pended upon my discovery. The city has been greatly 
benefited by it, as all must acknowledge, for the emi- 
grants that now flock to Marysville would otherwise 
have gone to Sacramento. Sixteen hundred dollars 
I expended upon the road is forever gone, but those 
who derive advantage from this outlay and loss of time 
devote no thought to the discoverer; nor do I see 
clearly how I am to help myself, for every one knows 



122 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

I cannot roll a mountain into the pass and shut it up. 
But there is one thing certain: although I recognize 
no superior in love of country, and feel in all its force 
the obligation imposed upon me to advance her inter- 
ests, still, when I go out hunting in the mountains a 
road for everybody to pass through, and expending my 
time and capital upon an object from which I shall 
derive no benefit, it will be because I have nothing 
better to do. 

" In the spring of 1852 I established myself in 
Beckwourth Valley, and finally found myself trans- 
formed into a hotel-keeper and chief of a trading-post. 
My house is considered the emigrant's landing-place, 
as it is the first ranch he arrives at in the Golden State, 
and is the only house between this point and Salt Lake. 
Here is a valley two hundred and forty miles in circum- 
ference, containing some of the choicest land in the 
world. Its yield of hay is incalculable; the red and 
white clovers spring up spontaneously, and the grass 
that covers its smooth surface is of the most nutritious 
nature. When the weary, toil-worn emigrant reaches 
this valley, he feels himself secure; he can lay himself 
down and taste refreshing repose, undisturbed by the 
fear of Indians. His cattle can graze around him in 
pasture up to their eyes, without running any danger 
of being driven off by the Arabs of the forest, and springs 
flow before them as pure as any that refresh this ver- 
dant earth." 

Since this chapter was written I note that the Western Pacific 
Railway is built through the pass discovered by Beckwourth, and that 
the officials of that railway, with wise and enlightened desire to pre- 
serve historic accuracy, are denoting it as Beckwourth, instead of 
Beckwith, on their maps and literature. 



CHAPTER XVI 

THE DARING HEROES OF THE PONY EXPRESS AND THE 
OVERLAND STAGE 

'T^HIS is not so much the recital of individualistic 
-■■ exploits of heroism and bravery, as of collective 
acts of great daring and courage, in which extraordinary 
heroism was the daily experience of all the active 
participants. No man could e\er have engaged in 
the work of the old overland stage, or the pony express, 
unless he were at least physically brave. And, when 
one comes to analyze acts, or especially a life, of physical 
bravery, it is sometimes hard to draw the line and say 
where that ends and moral heroism begins. 

To fully realize these preliminary words, it is but 
necessary to recall the conditions under which the over- 
land stage was started and the circumstances that sur- 
rounded its daily operation. California was seized 
for the Union by Commodore Sloat, on Tuesday, 
July 7, 1846. Gold was discovered by Marshall in 
January, 1848. The news speedily reached Salt Lake 
by means of the Mormons, and Oregon by way of 
Honolulu, and immediately an influx of gold-seekers 
began. But it was not until the end of the year 
that the East fully awoke to the importance of the 
discovery. There were no rapid means of communica- 
tion, — no regular methods of any kind. The con- 



124 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

vention called by General Riley to frame a civil con- 
stitution for the new State convened on September 3, 
1849, and on October 13 the work was accomplished 
and the constitution signed. The first election • took 
place November 13, when Peter H. Burnett was 
elected first governor, and the constitution was ratified 
by a vote of twelve thousand and sixty-four against 
eight hundred and eleven. Burnett was installed on 
November 20, and on December 15 the State legislature 
met at San Jose and elected Fremont and Gwin United 
States Senators. 

Here, then, was a State practically three thousand 
miles away from the seat of federal government, and 
without means of speedy communication between them, 
save by special despatch at enormous expense. The 
mail was carried via Panama and came once a month. 
In 1 85 1 this was extended to twice a month, at a cost 
of between seven hundred thousand and eight hundred 
thousand dollars a year. This state of affairs continued 
until 1858, when the Butterfield route from San Fran- 
cisco to St. Louis was established via Los Angeles, 
Yuma, Tucson, and over New Mexico, Texas and 
Arkansas. Nothing, however, was gained in time by 
this change, for it required about as long as to come 
by the steamers. The fastest time made at this period 
from San Francisco to New York was twenty-one days. 
The only advantage was that the overland stage went 
twice a week, whereas the steamers sailed only twice a 
month. 

At this time (1858) Messrs. Russell, Majors and 
Waddell were running a daily stage between St. Joseph, 



HEROES OF PONY EXPRESS 125 

Missouri (then the terminus of the railway lines) and 
Salt Lake City, as well as transporting large quantities 
of government stores by freight wagons over the same 
line. This route for some time had engaged the atten- 
tion of Senator Gwin, He realized how much shorter it 
was than the Butterfield route, but every attempt to get 
his colleagues in the United States Senate to consider 
the construction of such a route, by subsidy or other- 
wise, was met with their assurances that such a route 
was not feasible during a large part of the year. The 
Sierran barrier, they urged, would effectually prevent 
any regular stage from running, even were a road con- 
structed, and therefore it was a waste of time to con- 
sider such a project. Senator Gwin, however, was not 
so easily daunted, and in 1859, meeting Mr. Russell 
in Washington, he used his most eloquent endeavors to 
persuade him to start such a line. He assured the 
stage man that if he would demonstrate its feasibility 
he would guarantee a large subsidy for carrying the 
mail that would more than indemnify his firm for the 
large outlay, but that it was useless to ask his colleagues 
for their vote for a subsidy until the route had actually 
been opened and operated during the winter months. 
Enthusiastic over the idea, Mr. Russell came west 
to confer with his partners. On looking at it from the 
purely commercial standpoint, these practical men 
threw cold water upon the scheme, but when Russell 
urged it afresh, on the ground of its national importance, 
the benefit it would be to the northern States in case 
of any conflict with the South, and further, because it 
would gain them an influential friend in Senator Gwin, 



126 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

they finally decided to accede to his wishes and go 
ahead. 

Accordingly, five hundred of the fleetest horses of the 
country were purchased, and the services of over two 
hundred competent men secured, eighty of whom were 
chosen, because of their slimness, as riders. The 
lighter the man the better for the horse, as in some 
portions of the route the scheduled time required 
a speed of twenty miles an hour. 

The stage company already had stage stations some 
ten to twelve miles apart, located between St. Joseph 
and Salt Lake City, but an entirely new set of stations 
had to be built between Salt Lake City and Sacra- 
mento. These were located at a distance of about 
seventy-five miles apart, and through a country that 
none but heroes would have engaged to work in. It 
was infested with wild animals, hostile Indians, and 
occasionally with abandoned whites, who were more 
cruel and bloodthirsty than either. It was wild and 
desert country, totally uninhabited, except for the roving 
Indians and desperadoes, who valued human life less than 
they valued that of a buffalo or an antelope. In the sum- 
mer, the hot, dusty, alkali plains were as dangerous and 
trying as were the rocky Sierras, deeply covered with 
snow, in the winter. None but brave men, experienced 
scouts, Indian fighters, plainsmen, inured to hardship 
and ready for any adventure, would have dared under- 
take the work. They were paid one hundred and 
twenty to one hundred and twenty-five dollars a month 
for their services, and were engaged because of their 
vigilance, bravery, agility and determination to " get 




A BUCKING HORSE IN THE HEART OF THE COLORADO DESERT. 




L". S. Geological Siiricy, F. B. irccks, Photo. 

TEN MILES SOUTH OF FURNACE CREEK, DEATH VALLEY. 




ALEXANDER MAJORS. 
Founder of the Pony Express. 



Page 132 



HEROES OF PONY EXPRESS 127 

through," Their romantic story has never fully been 
told. 

The day of the first start was April 3, i860. It 
was an epoch-forming day in transcontinental trans- 
portation, for not only did it cut down the time to ten 
days, but it clearly demonstrated that the central route 
was feasible, and thus prepared the congressional mind, 
as well as that of the pubhc, for the building of the 
Central Pacific Railway. 

Harry Roff was the first rider. Mounted on a spirited 
bronco, he left Sacramento and covered the first twenty 
miles, including one change, in fifty-nine minutes. On 
reaching Folsom, he changed again and started for 
Placerville, at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, fifty-five 
miles away. Here a rider named " Boston " took the 
mail-pouch and dashed on to Friday's Station, crossing 
the Sierra, where pack-trains and mules were kept 
constantly moving back and forth to tread down the 
snow, which in some places was over thirty feet deep. 
Sam Hamilton relieved " Boston," and took the ride 
through Genoa, Carson City, Dayton and Reed's 
Station to Fort Churchill, — seventy-five miles. So far, 
one hundred and eighty-five miles, the time consumed 
was fifteen hours and twenty minutes, in spite of the 
crossing of the snow-covered range. At Fort Churchill, 
Robert H. Haslam — better known as '' Pony Bob," — 
took the sack and carried it one hundred and twenty 
miles through the country of the hostile and warlike 
Paiutis to Smith's Creek. From this point Jay G. 
Kelley rode to Ruby Valley, Utah, one hundred and 
sixteen miles; thence H. Richardson carried the pre- 



128 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

cious mail one hundred and five miles to Deep Creek. 
The last rider, George Thatcher, took it to Rush Valley 
(Old Camp Floyd), eighty miles, and on to Salt Lake 
City, — fifty miles. 

The westward mail from St. Joseph, Missouri, 
started at the same time and passed from rider to rider 
by way of South Pass, Salt Lake, Humbolt River and 
Carson Valley over the Sierras to Sacramento, which 
it reached on April 13. The news of its coming caused 
great excitement and enthusiasm; crowds went out 
to meet it, and both houses of the State legislature 
then in session adjourned to welcome it and do honor to 
the occasion. The carrier came in time for the regular 
afternoon steamboat for San Francisco, and with his 
horse and the precious mail-bag, just as he had ar- 
rived, was put on board, and conveyed to San Fran- 
cisco, where he arrived at one o'clock on the morning 
of the fourteenth. That city already had telegraphic 
communication with Sacramento, so the whole city 
was on hand to welcome the solitary rider with brass 
bands, torches and all the acclaim of a great public 
event. A procession was formed, the music struck up, 
and the crowd, enthusiastically cheering, conveyed the 
mail-carrier and his precious pouch to the post-office. 

Thus was inaugurated the celebrated Pony Express, 
which continued in active operation for only about 
two years. There were two mails a week, each way, 
but only about two hundred letters could be carried 
each time. Tissue paper ordinarily was used for the 
correspondence, and the postage was fixed at five 
dollars for each half ounce. 



HEROES OF PONY EXPRESS 129 

" Pony Bob " thus describes some of his experiences, 
which may be regarded as fairly typical of those of his 
compeers : 

" About eight months after the Pony Express com- 
menced operations, the Paiuti War began in Nevada, 
and as no regular troops were then at hand, a volunteer 
corps, raised in California, with Colonel Jack Hayes 
and Henry Meredith — the latter being killed in the 
first battle at Pyramid Lake — in command, came over 
the mountains to defend the whites. Virginia City, 
Nevada, then the principal point of interest, and hourly 
expecting an attack from hostile Indians, was only in 
its infancy. A stone hotel on C Street was in course of 
erection, and had reached an elevation of two stories. 
This was hastily transformed into a fort for the pro- 
tection of women and children. 

" From the city the signal fires of the Indians could 
be seen on every mountain peak, and all available 
men and horses were pressed into service to repel the 
impending assault of the savages. When I reached 
Reed's Station, on the Carson River, I found no change 
of horses, as all those at the station had been seized by 
the whites to take part in the approaching battle. 
I fed the animal that I rode, and started for the next 
station, called Buckland's, afterward knowTi as Fort 
Churchill, fifteen miles down the river. This point 
was to have been the termination of my journey (as I 
had been changed from my old route to this one, in 
which I had had many narrow escapes and been twice 
wounded by Indians), as I had ridden seventy-five 
miles, but, to my great astonishment, the other rider 



I30 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

refused to go on. The superintendent, W, C. Marley, 
was at the station, but all his persuasion could not 
prevail on the rider, Johnnie Richardson, to take the 
road. Turning then to me, Marley said : ' Bob, I'll 
give you fifty dollars if you make this ride.' 

" I replied: ' I'll go you once.' 

" Within ten minutes, when I had adjusted my 
Spencer rifle — a seven-shooter — and my Colt's 
revolver, with two cylinders ready for use in case of 
an emergency, I started. From the station onward 
was a lonely and dangerous ride of thirty-five miles, 
without any change, to the sink of the Carson. I 
arrived there all right, however, and pushed on to 
Sand Springs, through an alkali bottom and sand 
hills, thirty miles farther, without a drop of water 
all along the route. At Sand Springs I changed horses, 
and continued on to Cold Springs, a distance of thirty- 
seven miles. Another change, and a ride of thirty 
miles more, brought me to Smith's Creek. Here I was 
relieved by J. G. Kelley. I had ridden one hundred 
and eighty-five miles, stopping only to eat and to change 
horses. 

" After remaining at Smith's Creek about nine hours, 
I started to retrace my journey with the return express. 
When I arrived at Cold Springs, to my horror I found 
that the station had been attacked by Indians, the 
keeper killed and all the horses taken away. What 
course to pursue I decided in a moment — I would go 
on. I watered my horse — having ridden him thirty 
miles without stop, he was pretty tired — and started for 
Sand Springs, thirty-seven miles away. It was growing 



HEROES OF PONY EXPRESS 131 

dark, and my road lay through heavy sage-brush, high 
enough in some places to conceal a horse. I kept a 
bright lookout, and closely watched every motion of 
my poor horse's ears, which is a signal for danger 
in an Indian country. I was prepared for a fight, but the 
stillness of the night and the howling of the wolves 
and coyotes made cold chills run through me at times, 
but I reached Sand Springs in safety and reported 
what had happened. Before leaving I advised the 
station-keeper to come with me to the sink of the Carson, 
for I was sure the Indians would be upon him the next 
day. He took my ad\icc, and so probably saved his 
life, for the following morning Smith's Creek was at- 
tacked. The whites, however, were well protected 
in the shelter of a stone house, from which they fought 
the Indians for four days. At the end of that time 
they were relieved by the appearance of about fifty 
volunteers from Cold Springs. These men reported 
that they had buried John Williams, the brave keeper 
of that station, but not before his body had been nearly 
devoured by wolves. 

" When I arrived at the sink of the Carson, I found 
the station men badly frightened, for they had seen 
some fifty warriors, decked out in their war-paint and 
reconnoitering the station. There were fifteen white 
men here, well armed and ready for a fight. 

" The station was built of adobe, and was large 
enough for the men and ten or fifteen horses, with 
a fine spring of water within ten feet of it. I rested 
here an hour, and after dark started for Buckland's, 
where I arrived without a mishap and only three and a 



132 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

half hours behind schedule time. I found Mr. Marley 
at Buckland's, and when I related to him the story of the 
Cold Springs tragedy and my success, he raised his 
previous offer of fifty dollars for my ride to one hundred 
dollars. I was rather tired, but the excitement of the 
trip had braced me up to withstand the fatigue of the 
journey. After a rest of one and a half hours, I pro- 
ceeded over my own route, from Buckland's to Friday's 
Station, crossing the western summit of the Sierra 
Nevada. I had traveled three hundred and eighty miles 
within a few hours of schedule time, and surrounded 
by perils on every hand." 

Alexander Majors, one of the founders of the Pony 
Express, in his Memoirs says: " Two important events 
transpired during the term of the Pony's existence. 
One was the carrying of President Buchanan's last 
message to Congress, in December, i860, from the 
Missouri River to Sacramento, a distance of two thou- 
sand miles, in eight days and some hours. The other 
was the carrying of President Lincoln's inaugural ad- 
dress of March 4, 1861, over the same route in seven days 
and, I think, seventeen hours, being the quickest time, 
taking the distance into consideration, on record in 
this or any other country, as far as I know. 

" One of the most remarkable feats ever accom- 
plished was made by F. X. Aubery, who traveled the 
distance of eight hundred miles, between Santa F^, 
New Mexico and Independence, Missouri, in five days 
and thirteen hours. This ride, in my opinion, in one 
respect was the most remarkable one ever made by 
any man. The entire distance was ridden without 



HEROES OF PONY EXPRESS 133 

stopping to rest, and ha\'ing a change of horses only 
once in every one hundred or two hundred miles. 
He kept a lead-horse by his side most of the time, so 
that when the one he was riding gave out entirely, 
he changed the saddle to the extra horse, left the horse 
he had been riding, and went on again at full 
speed. 

" At the time he made this ride, in much of the terri- 
tory he passed through he was liable to meet hostile 
Indians, so that his adventure was daring in more ways 
than one. In the first place, the man who attempted to 
ride eight hundred miles in the time he did took his 
life in his hands. There is perhaps not one man in a 
million who could have lived to finish such a journey." 

Another rider, J. G. Kelley, thus tells some of his 
own experiences. He was appointed assistant to the 
station-keeper at Sand Springs: 

" The war against the Paiuti Indians was then at its 
height, and we were in the middle of the Paiuti country, 
which made it necessary for us to keep a standing guard 
night and day. The Indians were often seen skulking 
around, but none of them ever came near enough for 
us to get a shot at them, till one dark night, when 
I was on guard, I noticed one of our horses prick up 
his ears and stare. I looked in the direction indicated 
and saw an Indian's head projecting above the wall. 

" My instructions were to shoot if I saw an Indian 
within shooting distance, as that would wake the boys 
quicker than anything else; so I fired and missed my 
man. 

" Later on we saw the Indian camp-fires on the 



134 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

mountain, and in the mornuig saw many tracks. They 
evidently intended to stampede our horses, and if 
necessary kill us. The next day one of our riders, 
a Mexican, rode into camp with a bullet hole through 
him from the left to the right side, having been shot by 
Indians while coming down Edwards Creek, in the 
quaking-asp bottom. This he told us as we assisted 
him off his horse. He was tenderly cared for, but 
died before surgical aid could reach him. 

" As I was the lightest man of the station, I was 
ordered to take the Mexican's place on the route. My 
weight was then one hundred pounds, while I now 
weigh two hundred and thirty. Two days after taking 
the route, on my return trip, I had to ride through the 
forest of quaking-asp trees where the Mexican had been 
shot. A trail had been cut through these little trees, 
just wide enough to allow a horse and rider to pass. 
As the road was crooked and the branches came to- 
gether from either side, just above my head when 
mounted, it was impossible to see ahead more than 
ten or fifteen yards, and it was two miles through the 
forest. 

" I expected to have trouble, and prepared for it by 
dropping my bridle reins on the neck of my horse, put 
my Sharp's rifle at full cock, kept both spurs in the 
flanks, and we went through that forest like a ' streak 
of greased lightning.' 

" At the top of the hill I dismounted to rest my horse, 
and looking back, saw the bushes moving in several 
places. As there were no cattle or game in that vicinity, 
I knew the movements must be caused by Indians, 



HEROES OF PONY EXPRESS 135 

and was more positive of it when, after firing several 
shots at the spot where I saw the bushes moving, all 
agitation ceased. Several days after that, two United 
States soldiers, who were on the way to their command, 
were shot and killed from the ambush of those bushes, 
and stripped of their clothing, by the red devils." 

These stories are but typical. Others could be told 
equally interesting of adventures " by flood and field," 
— fording dangerous streams, sinking into quicksands, 
swallowed up by floods and cloudbursts, caught in 
sandstorms, perishing in snow-drifts, scorching to 
death in alkali flats that reflected the fierce rays of 
the summer sun, bewildered by mirages, tormented by 
thirst, etc., etc. These gallant men deserve a monu- 
ment to their memory and work, for every day saw 
them do brave and heroic deeds. 

Equally meritorious was the profession of stage- 
driving in those early and Indian-threatening days. 
Most of the old-time " knights of the whip " were 
true heroes. 

Regardless of all obstacles, they resolutely endeav- 
ored to get through " on time." Attacks by Indians, 
" hold-ups " by " road agents," blockings of the road 
by snow, mud or drifted sands, the flooding of streams 
that must be forded, the breaking of bridges, accidents 
to themselves, stock, or coaches, — anything, every- 
thing must be overcome and the wheels roll into the 
station on " schedule time." Many a time have I 
ridden with these old knights of the whip, for thirty 
years ago, when I first came to the West, though the 
Central Pacific Railway had ousted the overland stage, 



136 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

there were many side routes in California, Nevada and 
Arizona over which stages still ran. 

This chapter cannot better be concluded than by 
a quotation from a novel, one of the first written by 
a Californian, which gives a true account of a portion 
of a stage-ride over the Sierra Nevada: 

" The brake w^as left untouched, and the vehicle 
pushing upon the horses sent them flying down the 
grade with fearful rapidity. It was not driving that 
Jack now did. It was too dark to drive. He could 
only hold the lines in his hand and let the horses follow 
their own instinct. True, they would not go over the 
precipice of their own accord; but they might go so 
near the edge at any moment as to let the coach fall 
over. . . . 

" And so they thundered along the narrow shelf cut 
in the mountain- side, at the rate of sixteen miles an 
hour, trusting all to the instinct of six mustangs. 

" At each half minute a gleam of lightning would blaze 
forth, and show them the yawning gulf, fifteen hundred 
feet deep, along the very edge of which they were madly 
rushing. So, round and round, they twisted and curved 
with the spurs and angles of the mountain, at times 
running out upon a projecting point, at the end of 
which, seemingly, nothing but wings could rescue 
them from the fearful plunge that lay beyond; but, 
just as the leap was to be taken, the jaunty lead horses 
would turn a sharp corner of the projecting wall, fol- 
lowed by the others, and at last the coach itself would 
sway over the abyss, and then, with a roll and a swing, 
follow the flying horses along the ledge, still in safety." 



CHAPTER XVII 

THE STREET- PREACHING HERO OF " FORTY- NINE," 
WILLIAM TAYLOR 

"O EGARDLESS of differences of opinion in the- 
■■•^ ology and churches, every person can recognize 
courage, bravery and heroism in actions prompted by 
religious behef. InteUigent Methodists appreciate the 
spirit of the work of Padre Serra as much as do the 
CathoHcs, and good Christian Scientists can see the 
bravery and courage of Livingstone as well as the 
Scotch Presbyterians. Whatever a man's belief, it 
certainly requires faith, bravery, courage of a high 
order — in a word, heroism — to preach a pure and 
simple religion in all its rigor to men of openly wicked 
lives. It will not be denied by any student, and cer- 
tainly not by any pioneer, that there was much open 
wickedness in California, both in San Francisco and 
the mines, in the early days after the discovery of 
gold. While it is not true, as some have rashly as- 
serted, that the greater part of the pioneers were men 
of irreligious and immoral lives, it must be confessed 
that for many years certain phases of wickedness 
were rampant, open and defiant. Senator Wilson 
Flint says that in 1850 three sides of Portsmouth Square 
in San Francisco " were mostly occupied by buildings 
which served the double purpose of hotels and gambling- 



138 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

houses, the latter calling being regarded at that time 
as a very reputable profession." 

A writer in 1876 says: " Gambling! It is not 
strange that, to-day, San Franciscans are so fond of 
speculative sports and businesses. Twenty and twenty- 
five years ago they all gambled. The finest and most 
substantial houses in the city were the ' gilded palaces 
of chance.' Faro, roulette, monte, and rondo were all 
favorite games. Gold was so easily obtained and so 
abundant, that everybody had money to stake on the 
game. Sometimes these stakes were enormous. Twenty 
thousand dollars were risked on the turn of a single 
card. Such large bets were, of course, rare; but one 
thousand, three thousand, and five thousand dollars 
were almost nightly lost and won as single stakes. 

" So popular was the game, that men who had quit 
the pulpit, the deaconship, the Sabbath- school teach- 
er's place, to come to California, as naturally drifted 
into the gambling-house and took their turn at play 
as the most hardened gamester. The gambling- 
houses were the only places of resort. Every lodging- 
house was full and overflowing; hotels were crowded, 
and as there were no homes in this strange community, 
the restless people must needs seek shelter in the 
barrooms where the games went on. These places 
were comfortable at least; they were well lighted at 
night, there was that other subtle attraction, that 
exciting and intoxicating amusement that, once in- 
dulged in with success, becomes fascinating." 

The writers of the Annals of San Francisco state 
that: "The general population of San Francisco 



STREET -PREACHING HERO 139 

in 1852, with shame it must be confessed, in those 
days — as is still the case in 1854, to a considerable 
extent — drank largely of intoxicating liquors. A 
great many tippled at times, and quite as many swore 
lustily. They are an adventurous people, and their en- 
joyments are all of an exciting kind. They are bold 
and reckless, from the style of the place and the nature 
both of business and amusement. Newcomers fall 
naturally into the same character." 

Again they say: "There is a sad recklessness of 
conduct and carelessness of life among the people 
of California, and nearly all the inhabitants of San 
Francisco, whatever be their native country, or their 
original pacific disposition, share in the same hasty, 
wild character and feeling." 

I have quoted these passages, but deem them all, 
except that of Senator Flint, exaggerated. The open- 
ness of vice was so glaring that it obstructed the vision 
of the ordinary observer, and prevented him from seeing 
and knowing the large number of good men the city 
possessed. But it was bad enough, and honest, true, 
sober, and Christian men of every faith, Catholic 
and Protestant alike, felt that somethmg should be 
done to check the open spirit of profligacy, vice and 
immorality. 

A common expression of those early days to palliate 
man's open indulgence in wrong-doing was " God 
doesn't hold any man responsible for his conduct after 
he crosses the Missouri River," and another: "It is 
impossible to live religion in California, and there- 
fore it's no use to trv." 



I40 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

These quotations, even though exaggerated, show 
that drinking, gambling, sensuaUty and carousing 
generally were openly indulged in, and both palliated 
and tolerated by many people. Nearly every man 
went fully armed. The revolver and bowie knife 
were almost as common possessions as an ordinary 
pocket-knife is to-day. Hence it can well be seen 
that a timid and hesitating soul would have deemed 
it the risk of his life to enter the stronghold of this 
class of men and boldly tell them of their lawlessness. 
But among the earliest arrivals in San Francisco after 
the gold discovery became known was a man who 
knew no fear, who had no timidity, who was bold 
to temerity, and outspoken to apparent recklessness. 
This man was William Taylor, a Methodist preacher 
from Baltimore, Maryland, who for seven years 
preached every Sunday in the streets of San Francisco, 
and afterwards wrote a book, entitled Seven Years 
Street-Preaching in San Francisco, from which most 
of the statements in this chapter are taken. 

He arrived in San Francisco September 22, 1849, 
and on December 3, 1849, ^^ announced at the little 
Methodist church " on the hill," that he would preach 
in the open air, in Portsmouth Square, at three p. m. 

Says Taylor: "It was regarded by most persons 
present, if not all, as a very dangerous experiment; 
for the gamblers were a powerful and influential party 
in the city, and the Plaza was their principal rendez- 
vous, and Sunday the best day of the seven for their 
business. The Plaza was nearly surrounded by 
gambling and drinking- houses. The gamblers oc- 



STREET - PREACHING HERO 141 

cupied the best houses in the city, and had them 
furnished in the most magnificent style. 

" The walls of these houses (the gambling and 
drinking-saloons) were hung with splendid paintings; 
* the tables ' contained ' piles ' of gold and silver ; the 
musicians occupied a high platform in the rear end 
of the saloon; the ' needful ' was served out by ' a 
gentleman of the bar,' in one corner, near the en- 
trance, where many a jolly circle drank to each other's 
health the deadly draught. These places, especially 
at night, all night, and on Sunday, were crowded 
with moving masses of humanity, of every age and 
complexion. So powerful was this class of men in 
the city, that I do not remember of ever hearing of one 
of them, in those days, being arrested, even for mur- 
der." 

Here it was that William Taylor, his wife and another 
lady seated near by, took his stand on a carpenter's 
work-bench, and, after singing an old-fashioned Meth- 
odist hymn, began to preach to an immense crowd. 
To be a successful street- preacher requires genius of 
a peculiar order, and Taylor's introductory remarks 
at least foreshadowed his possession of this genius. 
He said: " Gentlemen, if our friends in the Atlantic 
States, with the views and feelings they entertained 
of California society when I left there, had heard that 
there was to be preaching this afternoon in Portsmouth 
Square, in San Francisco, they would have predicted 
disorder, confusion, and riot; but we, who are here, 
believe very differently. One thing is certain, there 
is no man who loves to see those Stars and Stripes 



142 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

floating on the breeze " (pointing to the flag of our 
Union), " and who loves the institutions fostered under 
them; in a word, there's no true American but will 
observe order under the preaching of God's word 
anywhere, and maintain it, if need be. We shall have 
order, gentlemen." He then proceeded with his 
address, and this " proved to be the first of a series 
of nearly six hundred sermons preached in these 
streets, the confluence of all the various creeds, and 
isms, and notions, and feelings, and prejudices of the 
representatives of all the nations, Christian and 
heathen." 

This shrewdness in introducing the subject to his 
peculiar audience was but one proof of his especial 
fitness for the work he had chosen. Other qualities 
were equally essential to success. He must be able 
to seize upon any passing or trivial circumstance, and 
turn it to advantage; he must be witty and skilful at 
repartee; he must be good-natured, patient and gentle- 
manly under diversely irritating and provoking cir- 
cumstances, yet firm and insistent upon the mainte- 
nance of good order; fearless in speech and conduct; 
honest, sincere and simple in his daily life; and he 
must also be a devotee to that which he declares. 

Scores of forceful instances might be related showing 
Taylor's power to seize and happily turn the passing 
circumstance to his advantage. He once preached, 
on the Pacific Street Wharf, with a barrel of whisky 
as a pulpit, and thus prefaced his discourse: " Gentle- 
men, I have for my pulpit to-day, as you see, a barrel 
of whisky. I presume this is the first time this barrel 



STREET -PREACHING HERO 143 

has ever been appropriated to a useful purpose. The 
' critter ' contained in it will do me no harm while 
I keep it under my feet. And let me say now to you 
all, to sailors and to landsmen, never let the ' critter ' 
get above your feet. Keep it under your feet, and you 
have nothing to fear from it." 

The following Sunday his pulpit was a barrel of 
pork, and this led to the following introduction: "I 
see my pulpit of last Sabbath, the barrel of whisky, is 
gone, and I am very much afraid that my timely 
warning, as is too often the case, was not heeded, and 
that its contents have ere this gone down the throats 
of some of our fellow-citizens. I have in its stead to- 
day, as you see, a barrel of pork, literally less of the 
spirit and more of the flesh." He then proceeded to 
discourse upon the necessity of keeping under the lusts 
of the flesh if a man would attain to the happiness of 
wisdom. 

A shrewd, homely wit aided this turning of circum- 
stance to fortuitous advantage. One Sunday two 
fruit vendors, thmkuig to turn to profit the large 
crowds that Taylor always gathered around him, set 
up their movable stands, one on each side of his barrel 
pulpit. Appearing not to notice their presence, Taylor 
— as he quaintly terms it — began to " sing up " his 
congregation, and soon had a circle about twenty deep, 
standing as close as possible, with the Spanish and 
French fruit-dealers in the centre. He then cried out : 
" Grapes, pears, and oranges! Gentlemen, you must 
not suppose that I have any interest in this Sunday 
traffic in calling you together around it. I hope you 



144 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

will not patronize these Sabbath- breakers. You are not 
so grape-hungry but that you can wait until to-morrow, 
and then during the six days in the week lay in a 
supply for Sunday. These fellows have set up here, 
expecting to make a fine speculation out of my audi- 
ence this morning; but they will find that they have 
brought their fruit to the wrong market." 

By this time the fruit- dealers were very uncom- 
fortable, and would gladly have escaped, but they 
were so com[)letely hemmed in that they were com- 
pelled to take the preacher's raillery, and then stand 
while he preached a longer sermon (doubtless) than 
usual, without the sale of a dime's worth of their fruit. 

On another occasion, to quote from IVIr. Taylor: 

" Once, when a lean- looking man, driving a poor 
horse, was trying to urge his way through the crowd, 
I said : ' Look at that poor man ! Working seven days 
in the week is bringing him rapidly down to his grave! 
A man cannot break the law of the Sabbath without 
violating a law of his own constitution. Look at his 
sunken, sallow cheeks, and his dim eyes! How the 
sin of Sabbath- breaking is telling on him! He'll die 
soon if he doesn't reform. Look at his poor old horse! 
The Lord ordained a Sabbath for that horse, but his 
merciless master is cheating him out of it. See there, 
how he beats him. After all, I had rather be the horse 
than the man, if he dies as he lives.' 

'* On another occasion a wag, thinking to have a little 
sport, tried to ride through the crowd on a burro. 
His animal refusing to go through, I said : * See there, 
that animal, like Balaam's of the same kind, has more 





J3 C3 
U 

a fe 






m 




SAN FRANCISCO IN 1840, FROM THE HEAD OF CLAY STREET. 
From old wood-cuts. 

Pages 137153 




PIONEERS LINED UP FOR THEIR MAIL AT THE POST OFFICE, 
CORNER OF PIKE AND CLAY STREETS, SAN FRANCISCO, IN 1849. 



STREET - PREACHING HERO 145 

respect for the worship of God than his master, who 
only lacks the ears of being the greater ass of the 
two.' " 

Reference has ah-eady been made to Mr. Taylor's 
attacks upon what he conceived to be Sabbath-break- 
ing. He "was equally fearless in attacking other evils. 
Naturally the rum-seller came in for his share of these 
denunciations. " Look at that rum-seller. The house 
in which he lives, and from which are the issues of 
death, once belonged to a man of property and respect- 
ability. He lived there with his happy family; but 
the wily ' gentleman of the bar ' took ad\antage of 
the moral imbecility of his victim, just as the high- 
wayman takes advantage of the physical imbecility 
of the man he murders and robs. He has long since 
sent his victim's shattered, bloated carcass to a drunk- 
ard's grave. His family are in the poor house, daily 
shedding fountains of tears more bitter than death." 

Once he was called upon to preach a funeral dis- 
course over a gambler who had been shot in a quarrel 
with a fellow-gambler. A habitue of the gambling- 
house went to Mr. Taylor, saying: " I think it would 
be a pity to bury the poor fellow without any kind of 
religious ceremony, and it will be a comfort to his 
friends." 

Surrounded by gamblers, Mr. Taylor preached to 
them of the evil of their profession. Among other 
remarks, he said: " What are you about? What are 
you doing here in California? Look at that bloody 
corpse! Wiiat will his mother say? What will his 
sisters think of it? To die in a distant land, among 



146 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

strangers, is bad; to die unforgiven, suddenly, unex- 
pectedly, is worse; to be shot down in a gambHng- 
house, at the midnight hour — Oh, horrible! And 
yet this is the legitimate fruit of the excitement and dis- 
sipation, chagrin and disappointment, consequent 
upon your business; a business fatal to your best 
interests of body and soul, for time and for eternity. 

" Again, look at its influence upon society. The 
unwary are decoyed and ruined. Little boys, charmed 
by your animating music, dazzled by the magnificent 
paraphernalia of your saloons, are enticed, corrupted, 
and destroyed, to the hopeless grief of their mothers." 

He was scathing in his denunciation of the land- 
sharks who preyed upon the poor sailors. In an elab- 
orate and especially prepared address, he completely 
exposed their nefarious methods, and his book contains 
a chapter entitled " ' Shanghaing ' the Sailors." His 
sympathy with the sailor is shown on every page and in 
every line. He truthfully says: " The history of the 
sailor, his isolation from domestic society and the 
refinements and luxuries of home, his spirit of adventure, 
courage, patience, toils, sufferings by starvation, cold, 
shipwreck, confinement in foreign hospitals, adven- 
tures among savages and cannibals, his imprisonments 
and slow tortures, his death by the violence of war 
and piracy, by the violence of the hurricane that sweeps 
the ocean, and by the more dreadful tortures of wasting 
famine, has been written in detached fragments on 
every page of the history of commercial nations, and 
especially of our own country." 

He defines "shanghaing" as follows: "The term 



STREET - PREACHING HERO 147 

* shanghaing ' is of Californian origin, and was intro- 
duced in this way. A few years ago it was very diffi- 
cult to make up a crew in San Francisco, especially 
for any place from which they could not get a ready 
passage back to this land of gold. Crews could be 
made up for Oregon, Washington Territory, the Is- 
lands, and the ports of South America; for from any 
of these places they could readily return. Even from 
Canton, they could stand a pretty good chance of a 
direct run back; but from Shanghai, there were 
seldom ever any ships returning to California. To 
get back, therefore, from Shanghai, they must make 
the voyage around the world. That was getting quite 
too far away from the ' placers ' of our mountains. 
Hence, to get crews for Shanghai, they depended 
almost exclusi\ely on drugging the men. Crews for 
Shanghai were, therefore, said to be ' shanghaied ' ; 
and the term came into general use to represent the 
whole system of drugging, extortion and cruelty." 

The preacher went on to show how a perfect system 
existed for swindling and oppressing the sailor, so 
that he was robbed on every hand, often maltreated, 
shipped against his will, kept in a state of abject sub- 
jection, drugged and poisoned, and even sometimes 
brutally murdered if he dared resist the oppressions 
of these fiends in human form. "To drown men's 
souls in rum, to poison, enervate, and destroy their 
bodies, and rob them of all their hard earnings, and 
leave their widowed mothers, wives, and children, 
who are dependent upon them, to beg or starve, is 
perfect sport for the ' land-shark.' The great man- 



148 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

eater of the deep is satisfied to get the stray carcass of 
a sailor occasionally, but these dry- land monsters 
must have soul, body, and estate of all the sailors, if 
possible." 

He was equally fearless in his impeachment of duel- 
ling. It is interesting here to note that he was an in- 
timate friend of James King of William, and, of course, 
heartily approved of the latter's brave and courageous 
stand on the subject of " the code." He it was who 
nursed King, day and night, after he was shot by Casey, 
and was with him when he died. Hence it can well 
be imagined that he would have no " soft words " to 
utter when, in 1854, he was asked to preach the funeral 
sermon of Colonel Woodlief, who had been killed in 
a duel by a man named Kewen. While offering 
all the consolation and sympathy he could to the be- 
reaved widow, he expressed his sincere regrets that the 
husband had not had the moral courage to do as James 
King had done, viz., to refuse to meet the challenger, 
whom he called a moral coward. His arraignment 
of the " code " was bitter and severe. He showed that 
those who participated in duelling were law-breakers, 
both in the sight of God and man, and that the sooner 
men abandoned their ideas of stich false " honor " 
the better it would be for them and the country. 

One Sunday he preached on the subject " King 
David's Fool." His text was " The fool hath said in 
his heart, There is no God." In the plainest, most 
direct and simple fashion he thrust home these plain 
words of the psalmist, and contended that lives speak 
louder than words. He asserted that the lives of the 



STREET -PREACHING HERO 149 

gamblers, rum-sellers, sensualists and others proclaimed 
more loudly and certainly than words their belief in 
the statement of King David's fool. Then he showed 
the folly of the belief, and contended for the wisdom 
that recognized the moral control of the universe to 
which every human being is subject, and to which, 
sooner or later, he must bow. 

One thing it is well to note in this street-preaching 
work of Mr. Taylor. Though he conducted about 
six hundred services, he never took up a collection 
for his own personal needs. Several times his enthu- 
siastic auditors started to take up a collection — and 
it is well known that the miners and sailors who often 
comprised a large part of his audiences were most 
liberal and generous men — but he always restrained 
them. He positively refused to have his street serv- 
ices trammeled by collections. He determined that no 
man should be able to impugn his moti\es and say 
that he preached for money. 

It is an important historical fact that should not be 
forgotten that to William Taylor California owes its 
great eucalyptus forests and plantations. After this 
chapter was written, I came across his own statement 
as to how the eucalyptus was introduced. He says: 
" There were no such trees on that coast when I went 
there in 1849. I sent the seed from Australia to my 
wife in California in 1863. Her seed-sowing made 
such a marvelous growth that a horticulturist neighbor 
of otirs wrote me to send him a pound of the seed — 
the smallest of all seeds — • and the nurseries, thus 
seeded, dotted the whole country with great forests 



150 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

of evergreen, the most prominent floral landmarks 
of the Pacific Coast." 

It is interesting to note the conditions of things when 
Mr. Taylor settled in San Francisco. The Reverend 
O. C. Wheeler, the Baptist minister, was paying five 
hundred dollars a month rent for a five-roomed house. 
The newcomer was aghast at such prices, and soon 
decided that the only way for him to live would be 
to build a house. But how? Lumber was selling at 
from three to four hundred dollars per thousand feet, 
and the members of his little church*, were so poor 
that a subscription raised only twenty- seven dollars 
— about enough to buy nails and hinges. He then 
decided to cross the Bay to the redwoods, and cut out 
enough lumber to serve for the building of a house. 
He was neither a sawyer, a carpenter, or a builder, but 
already he was possessed of that spirit of California 
that enables a man of spirit to turn his hand to anything 
and accomplish results. A friend accompanied him. 
Passage was taken in a whaleboat, and fortunately 
another friend lived up the mountain, five miles 
away, whither the two walked. In two weeks they 
secured enough lumber for the house. Here is Mr. 
Taylor's own account: ** My scantlings, which I bought 
in the rough, split out like large fence rails, I hewed 
to the square with my broadaxe. I made three thou- 
sand shingles, and exchanged them with a pit-sawyer 
for twenty-four joists, each seventeen feet long. I 
bought rough clapboards six feet long, and shaved 
them about as regularly and as smoothly with my 
draw-knife as if with a plane. These were for the 



STREET - PREACHING HERO 151 

weather-boarding. I used similar boards, slightly- 
shaven, for roofing, which were waterproof and very 
enduring. I bought the doors from a friend at the 
' reduced price ' of eleven dollars per door; the 
windows for one dollar per light, twelve dollars for each 
window. Hauling my stuff from the redwoods to the 
landing cost me twenty-five dollars per thousand feet. 
The regular price for transport thence to San Fran- 
cisco was forty dollars per thousand feet, but by hiring 
a boat and working with my own hands, I got the work 
done for less than half that price." 

He bought a lot on Jackson Street, above Powell, 
for twelve hundred and fifty dollars (on time), and 
under the instruction of a brotherly house-builder set 
to work. He hired a few carpenters at twelve dollars 
a day until the house was roofed in, and then com- 
pleted the work himself with such casual help as 
friends could afford to give. The result was a com- 
fortable, two-story house, sixteen by twenty-six feet, 
built at a cash outlay of $1491.25. 

He also enclosed the back part of the lot, and started 
a garden. It was the second garden planted in San 
Francisco, and was a great surprise and pleasure 
to passers-by. A restaurant-keeper one day asked if 
he might purchase some of the growing green-stuff, and 
was told he might do so at his own price. He gathered 
a pailful and offered ten dollars for it, and came again 
for more. Three chickens were bought for eighteen 
dollars, and though a house was built, with a secure 
lock, for their protection, some thief pulled a board 
off the back of the house and robbed the roost of its 



152 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

contents. This was exasperating, especially as eggs 
were selling at six dollars a dozen, wholesale, to be 
retailed at nine dollars. To provide milk for his 
little girl, Mr. Taylor went to Sacramento and bought 
a cow for two hundred dollars. Before this he had been 
paying a dollar a quart, and this was supposed to be 
a reduced rate. 

As we have seen, for seven years he preached in the 
streets and elsewhere, in San Francisco, and this was 
the beginning of an active career of missionary en- 
deavor that spread over many lands, carried on with 
characteristic energy for over fifty years. Whatever 
one may think of his theology, his preaching had won- 
derful effect in bringing men to see the folly of their 
evil lives, and in leading them into paths of sobriety, 
honesty, truth and religion. Shortly before he left 
California, he went with a gentleman and his wife 
and two children for a holiday in the mountains. When 
Sunday came some one suggested that he preach to 
the couple. With his usual directness, fearlessness and 
frankness, and his avowed principle of always adapt- 
ing his sermon to his hearers, he gave the two a most 
searching and admonitory address. He called the 
wife's attention to her forgetfulness of former religious 
professions, and censured his host for his harsh 
speech to his little boy, and his profanity. At the close 
of his address the husband grasped him by the hand and 
remarked: "I thank you for your candor and your 
kindness." 

In October, 1856, he and his family returned east, 
where he preached for three years; then he established 



STREET - PREACHING HERO 153 

missions in Australia, South Africa, India and South 
America. In 1884 he was suddenly and unexpectedly 
made Missionary Bishop of Africa for the Methodist 
Church, and continued at this work until his death. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

THE FEARLESS CIVIC HERO OF SAN FRANCISCO, JAMES 
KING OF WILLIAM 

"True to your God, you were to your country true, 
And we will love God more for knowing you." 

THE Vigilance Committees of San Francisco have 
been discussed all over the civilized globe, and it 
is well that young Californians should have a clear 
idea of what these committees were, and the facts 
that brought them into existence. In the appendix will 
be found references to those works that give a full 
history. The purpose of this chapter is to show 
the heroism of the life of James King of William, 
whose murder caused the organization of the most 
important of the Vigilance Committees, viz., that of 
1856. 

He was born in Georgetown, District of Columbia, on 
January 28, 1822. When a young man " he assumed the 
term 'of William,' which was found to be necessary 
in order to distinguish him from a number of other 
James Kings then living at Georgetown. William was 
his father's name. Some men distinguish themselves 
from others of the same name by using the word 
' senior ' or * junior ' * ist,' ' 2nd,' and so on. The 
same end was attained in this instance, by adopting the 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 155 

affix ' of William.' It is a custom in some parts of the 
United States, and particularly m Maryland, thus to 
take the father's given name as a portion of the 
son's." 

He had an elder brother who was a member of 
Fremont's expedition of 1846, which crossed the Rock- 
ies to California, and who was with his second expedi- 
tion of 1848. This brother so filled the mind of James 
King with glowing pictures of the future possibihties 
of the land by the Sunset Sea that he decided to emi- 
grate there. This was before gold was discovered 
and while California was still an integral part of 
Mexico. Accordingly, in 1848, he left Washington 
for New York, intending to set sail at once. While 
waiting for a vessel he received a letter from his brother 
which intimated the change of government which had 
just taken place and is interesting reading: 

" You must recollect that society is not formed yet 
properly in California, and as the population in- 
creases they will gradually form laws, adapted to 
their own peculiar circumstances. I think it would 
be well to inform yourself of the situation of the country 
and of the rights of the people, for as soon as the treaty 
is ratified, public attention there will be at once turned 
to the establishment of a civil government. ... I 
think it would be best to invest your money, or a portion 
of it, in a good rancho, and if you can purchase Joachim 
Estrada's, near the mission of San Luis Obispo, 
anyways reasonable, with the stock, do it by all means. 
Only, have the title examined. This last advice I give 
you upon the supposition that you would like an agri- 



156 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

cultural life. If you can buy a lot or a few yards of the 
Quicksilver Mine, you had better do it. The best one 
is about six miles from the Pueblo San Josd, near 
Mr. Cooke's rancho. If you travel by land betvi^een 
San Francisco and Monterey, you will pass through 
San Jose, and it is but a short ride to the mine. Visit 
it by all means, if you are in the neighborhood." 

He left New York on May 24, 1848, crossed the 
Isthmus of Panama, and sailed for Valparaiso, hoping 
there to find a vessel going to California. On his arrival 
he found Chile excited by the news of the discovery 
of gold. Purchasing some goods, he hired nine Chilenos 
to proceed with him to work in the mines. Upon their 
arrival in San Francisco, six of his workmen deserted 
him. He and the other three at once hurried to Hang- 
town (as Placerville was then called) and in three weeks 
time secured enough gold to pay for his goods and 
his expenses from Valparaiso. Then he went to Sacra- 
mento and engaged for awhile in business, but, as he 
was a banker by training, he decided to go East, secure 
capital, and open a bank in San Francisco, which he 
did on December 5, 1849. He was a man of sterling 
integrity, and soon became known throughout the 
whole State, doing a large and thriving business. His 
wife and four children joined him in 1851, and his 
home was one of the hospitable mansions of the new 
city. 

Owing to a diversion of a large sum of money which 
he had entrusted to one of his agents in the mines for 
the purchase of gold dust, he became saddled with 
a speculation. This distressed him, and led him to 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 157 

invest more than he felt his business would warrant, 
and such was the high and noble principle of the 
man that, immediately he felt in the slightest degree 
insecure, he turned over everything he possessed, 
including his beautiful home, to another large bank- 
ing firm, on their undertaking to pay in full all his 
creditors. 

This sensitiveness of honor and scrupulous honesty 
added to the high esteem in which he was already held. 
For it must be remembered that, while among men of 
honor the standard of business morality was quite as 
high then as it is now, the public sentiment of San 
Francisco was more liable to be a ^'ariable quantity. 
The early population of this city was not only cosmo- 
politan, but woefully varied. While there were many 
men of the highest integrity and purest life, there were, 
says Hittell, " thieves and ruffians from all parts of the 
world, and particularly from the British penal colonies 
of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land," This 
criminal element was present in such large force that 
" outrages, ever increasing in atrocity, were committed 
by them. There was hardly a crime, from pocket- 
picking to murder, that was not common; and in the 
presence of so many and such bold desperadoes no one 
was secure of his property or even of his life. Thefts, 
robberies, arsons, and assassinations were of almost 
daily occurrence, and of late months (1851) fearfully 
on the increase; while the courts, being conducted 
by judges and officers who, if not corrupt, were at least 
inefficient, afforded no relief." 

In 1849 the city had been cleared of notorious ruf- 



158 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

fians, but in 1851 matters were again so bad that a 
Vigilance Committee was organized, and another 
clearing out took place. 

In 1853, King of William was foreman of the grand 
jury, and was thus publicly called upon to do something 
to suppress the moral and social abominations and the 
political corruptions which were again swamping the 
community. So fearlessly did he proceed with this 
work that his name became a synonym for courage, 
purity and integrity. 

Then came the change in his fortunes and the transfer 
of his business. A little later, to his intense distress, 
the banking firm to whom the transfer had been made 
and with which he had allied himself, as well as other 
prominent houses, failed, and in their failure brought 
the usual suffering and loss to many others. While there 
has never been the slightest doubt in the minds of all 
best qualified to know that King's course was prompted 
by the highest principles, and while it is confessed 
that not a single person lost financially through him, 
it can well be understood that he would be the object 
of attack at this time. His replies to his enemies show 
a frankness, a candor, and ingenuousness, and disposi- 
tion to have the world know all the facts that are abso- 
lutely incompatible with anything but imimpeachable 
integrity. But, as a necessary consequence, this placed 
others in a less enviable light, and one of these — 
a prominent citizen, by name Alfred A. Cohen — 
felt himself aggrieved by what King had both wTitten 
and said. Three days later they met on Montgomery 
Street, and in the encounter that took place Cohen 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 159 

considered himself insulted. That afternoon he sent 
to King, by the hand of John K. Hackett, a challenge 
to fight a duel. To this challenge Mr. King replied 
with the following letter in the newspapers, a letter 
that should be well digested by every young student 
of the history of moral progress. 

" San Francisco, July 18, 1855. 

" Mr. John K. Hackett, 

" Sir: I now proceed to give you my reply to the 
note you handed me last night. At first, waiving other 
insuperable objections to the mode indicated of settling 
such difficulties, I could not consent to a hostile meeting 
with Mr. Cohen. The public have already been fully 
advised of my estimate of his character. The relative 
positions of Mr. Cohen and myself are entirely unequal 
in worldly fortune, and domestic relation. He is un- 
derstood to be possessed of an abundant fortune. In 
the event of his fall, he would leave ample means for 
the support of his wife and child. Recent events have 
stripped me entirely of what I once possessed. Were I 
to fall, I should leave a large family without the means 
of support. My duties and obligations to my family 
have much more weight with me than any desire to 
please Mr. Cohen or his friends in the manner pro- 
posed. I have ever been opposed to duelling on moral 
grounds. My opinions were known to Mr. Cohen, and 
when he addressed me the note which you had the 
impudence to deliver, he was well aware that it would 
not be accepted or answered affirmatively. That fact 
is sufiicient to demonstrate his contemptible cowardice 



i6o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

in this silly attempt to manufacture for himself a 
reputation for ' chivalry.' 

" Whilst nothing could induce me to change my 
principles upon the subject of duelling, my conscience 
is perfectly easy as to my right and the propriety of 
defending myself should I be assaulted. 

" Do not flatter yourself, sir, that this communi- 
cation is made out of regard either to yourself or to Mr. 
Cohen. I write this for publication in the newspapers. 
I avow principles of which I am not ashamed, and 
shall abide the result. 

" James King of Wm." 

Here was the gauntlet flung with dignity and power 
in the very face of the " chivalry." It was the first 
time in the history of California that any one had had 
the moral courage to refuse to fight a duel when chal- 
lenged. Expressions of sympathy and gratification 
at Mr. King's course at once began to pour in upon 
him, among others the following, signed by seventy 
of the most prominent and honored men of the city: 

" Your fellow citizens, whose names are subscribed 
to this letter, desire to express to you their admiration 
of the moral courage and sound principle manifested 
in your refusal to accept the challenge of Mr. Cohen to 
meet him in a duel. We believe that the so-called 
code of honor which requires all who consent to be 
governed by it to submit every injury, insult, misrepre- 
sentation or misunderstanding to the decision of the 
pistol or the knife, and to be in violation of the law 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM i6i 

of God, and of the laws of this State, and of those 
sacred obligations which a man owes to his family, 
his relatives and dependents, and to society. 

" We are convinced that if an expression of the senti- 
ment of this community could be had upon this subject, 
a very large majority would be found to view with ab- 
horrence the risking of life for insufficient cause, and 
often upon a mere punctilio; and that we express the 
feeling common to them, as well as ourseh-es, when we 
thank you for the bold, manly and uncompromising 
manner in which you have refused to sanction the 
practice. With the expression of an earnest hope, 
that if no higher principle should gOA'ern our fellow 
citizens, a regard for their interest may soon induce 
them to see to it that good laws well administered 
shall in future save us from violence and bloodshed; 
and with assurances of our high esteem and regard, 
we remain, 

" Your obedient servants." 

Hittell says: " King's stand upon the subject (of 
duelling), on account of its accordance with the law 
and its being recognized as dictated by enlightened 
principle, was considered as doing him great credit, 
and gained him very great applause. Nearly all the 
newspapers of the day heartily praised it; and no one 
dared openly to disapprove obedience to the constitu- 
tion and statutes. Though some duels have since taken 
place and some men still adhere or profess to adhere 
to the code, few or no duels between otherwise respect- 
able men have taken place for a number of years; and 



i62 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

James King of William, more than any other man, is 
entitled to the praise of having started the movement 
that put a stop to the barbarous practice." 

We now come to the part James King of William 
played in exposing municipal corruption, his assassina- 
tion, and the resulting formation of the great Vigilance 
Committee of 1856, 

Owing to his financial troubles and those of the 
firm of Adams and Company, he was called upon to 
make several defences and explanations in the public 
papers. " His success in these and a consideration of 
the effect produced by his plain, direct, incisive, Anglo- 
Saxon sentences upon the public mind seem to have 
suggested to himself and some of his friends the feasi- 
bility of starting a newspaper. Accordingly he made 
the proper arrangements, and on the e\^ening of Monday, 
October 8, 1855, issued the first number of the Daily 
Evening Bulletin, a small sheet of four pages, ten by 
fifteen inches in size. In his salutatory, he said that 
necessity, not choice, had driven him to the experiment, 
and that no one could be more fully sensible than him- 
self of the folly of a newspaper enterprise as an invest- 
ment of money. " But," he continued, " we invest no 
money of our own (for we have none) ; and only a few 
hundred dollars, generously advanced us by a few 
friends, is all that we have risked in the enterprise. 
If successful, we shall be able to feed, clothe and shelter 
our family in San Francisco, where the school facili- 
ties are such as in justice to those who have claims upon 
us, we are unwilling to forego." 

Then began a series of attacks of the most fearless, 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 163 

direct, open and manly character upon every person, 
firm, institution, judge, senator, congressman, called 
by name, whom he regarded as guilty of dishonest, 
corrupt, wicked or fraudulent acts. He spared no one. 
" His language was not choice, nor his denunciations 
as well rounded and rhetorical as they might have 
been! But he was an honest man, a true patriot, and 
deadly in earnest to save the city and State he loved 
from being made the playthings of corrupt men, who 
desired nothing but their own unholy gain and ambi- 
tions." 

The result was the people had faith in him, and his 
paper bounded into a success and popularity that was 
as instantaneous as it was remarkable. As stated by 
himself: " Would the San Francisco public sustain a 
truly independent journal — one that would support 
the cause of morality, virtue and honesty, whether 
in public service or private life, and which, regardless 
of all conseqences, would fearlessly and undauntedly 
maintain its course against the political and social evils 
of the day?" 

" The answer Yes! was soon and loudly made, and 
enthusiastically echoed from every town and mining 
camp in the country." 

"A notorious and professed banking house, but which 
was virtually a political institution (that of Palmer, 
Cook and Co.), that had long overridden the constitu- 
tion, and made and unmade — against the will of the 
people, and by the most disreputable means — nearly 
every officer of the city and State, was assailed by the 
Bulletin in regular form; and its corruption, its inso- 



i64 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

lent and dangerous usurpation, and at the same time its 
inherent weakness, exposed. The wrongers and swin- 
dlers of the unfortunate creditors of Adams and Com- 
pany (the bankers with w^hom he had been connected), 
were pitilessly attacked and held up to the scorn and 
detestation of the people. The demoralizing system 
of bestowing Federal, State and city appointments 
chiefly on professional gamblers, duellists, rowdies and 
assassins — on the debauched, illiterate, idle, criminal, 
and most dangerous class of the mbced population of 
the country — was forcibly pointed out and indig- 
nantly condemned. A high standard of honesty was 
laid down for all public men. The law's cruel delay, 
the baseness and corruption of its ministers, the dis- 
honorable professional conduct of leading pleaders 
in the courts, all were made plain to the honest and 
unsuspecting, and properly stigmatized. In short, 
the glaring evils of the body politic, the denial and 
perversion of justice, and the unworthy personal char- 
acter and incapability of the general class of men who 
held office, or who were connected with the courts of 
law, were loudly and unsparingly denounced. Mr. 
King did not waste his energies by uttering smooth, 
general homilies on evil doings; he struck directly 
at the evil-doer. If a man whose conduct required to 
be publicly exposed were really a swindler, a gambler, 
or a duellist, a common cheat, a corrupt judge, or a 
political trickster, the Bulletin, standing alone in this 
respect among the timid, time-serving, or bribed city 
press, dared so to style him. But not only did Mr. 
King, in his paper, expose scoundrelism, vice and crime, 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 165 

and smite their votaries wherever he detected them; 
he also endeavored, and not in vain, to aid in whatever 
could restore and strengthen the moral tone of society. 
He urged the decent observance of the Sabbath; he 
recalled public attention to the plainest and most 
necessary dictates of religion; he encouraged the es- 
tablishment of public schools, and dwelt on the bless- 
ings of a sound and liberal education; he frowned on 
gambling, duelling, and wilful idleness; he sought to 
soothe and reinspire the desponding who had the desire 
but lacked the opportunity, and especially the energy 
and perseverance, to earn a li\'ing by the sweat of their 
brow; he strove to free the city from the unblushing 
presence of the lewd who had so long assumed inso- 
lently to follow, if not often to lead, the \irtuous and 
decent portion of the community. The political knave, 
the dishonest oflEice-holder, the gambler, swindler, 
loafer, and duellist, the base class of lawyers — in 
brief, the vicious, lewd and criminal of every kind, were 
in consternation; their unhallowed practice and gains 
were disappearing." 

Hittell declares: "No such new-spaper, or anything 
like it, had appeared in the city or country, and per- 
haps not in any other country before. It was an ideal 
fighting journal. It was heroic. Whatever might be 
its mistakes and its errors, it was sincere and it meant 
right. ... It was exactly what the people wanted and 
they responded unreser\'edly. In the fearful condition 
of public affairs, with fraud and corruption and crime 
and immorality of every kind and nature on every 
side, it formed a rallying point, towards which all the 



i66 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

elements of law, order, honesty, and integrity could 
converge, and around which they could arrange them- 
seh^es," 

Things thus continued until on Saturday evening, 
November 17, only a little more than a month after 
the Bulletin was started, the city was startled by the 
cowardly assassination of William H. Richardson, 
United States marshal for the district of California, 
by a gambler named Charles Cora. It cannot be denied 
that Richardson was not altogether an ornament to 
his high ofhce, but the murder was so flagrant, so 
cowardly, so despicable, that public feeling ran high, 
and there was an instant demand that the city officials 
do their duty. 

But Cora had protectors of financial strength in the 
class to which he belonged, and also in the fact that 
a dissolute woman of great wealth was his paramour. 
It soon became rumored that the most eloquent and 
able lawyers had been retained in his defense, and also 
that a corruption fund had been raised. At this, 
King's voice rang out clear. He demanded a full trial 
and a speedy one, and that if the officials failed in their 
duty the people should arise again in their majesty 
as the source of political power and with full observ- 
ance of justice duly try and punish these recreants and 
betrayers of the public trust. He mentioned the keeper 
of the city jail and the sheriff by name, and placed the 
responsibility for the murderer's safe-keeping where 
it belonged. 

The trial was had, the facts of the murder were clearly 
established, yet, as the public anticipated, the jury 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 167 

was hung, seven voting for a \'erdict of murder, one 
for manslaughter, and four for acquittal. The Bulletin 
that afternoon came out with a terrific onslaught on 
the disreputable element, on trickery of the law, and 
the veniality of the lawyers. Day after day, his sledge- 
hammer blows continued. People who professed to 
despise his paper, who had cause for fear, were in 
hourly dread lest their misdeeds should be made kno\Mi. 
King became the most powerful man in the State, 
because of his simple, direct, unpurchasable honesty, 
his fearlessness and his determination to expose those 
who were ruining the city he loved. 

There was but one result to be anticipated. Even 
in our day, with all the officials of our large cities 
ostensibly enrolled on the side of the cause of civic 
righteousness, it would be dangerous for a man to 
call by name those who were in high position and en- 
gaged in criminal or immoral pursuits. Whether a 
conspiracy was formed, as was alleged, or not, there 
is no doubt but that the forces of evil combined and 
it was determined to " put King out of the way." The 
occasion arose four months later, when King opposed 
the appointment of one Bagley to the position in the 
United States Custom-house, on the ground that he 
had, shortly before, engaged in a pistol fight with James 
P. Casey, one of the supervisors. But while Bagley 
was attacked, Casey was not spared, for the editorial 
continued (and it must be remembered that King's 
statements were true) : "It does not matter how 
bad a man Casey has been, nor how much benefit it 
might be to the public to have him out of the way, we 



i68 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

cannot accord to any one citizen the right to kill him, 
or even beat him, without justifiable personal provo- 
cation. The fact that Casey has been an inmate of 
Sing Sing prison in New York is no offense against the 
laws of this State; nor is the fact of his having stuffed 
himself through the ballot-box, as elected to the board 
of supervisors from a district where it is said he was 
not even a candidate, any justification why Mr. Bagley 
should shoot Casey, however richly the latter many 
deserve having his neck stretched for such fraud on 
the people." 

The upshot of this attack on Casey was that, after 
an interview between himself and King, when the 
latter ordered him out of his office, Casey shot him 
with the same cold-blooded deliberation that Cora had 
displayed in the murder of Richardson. For while 
King lingered six days, it was feared that his wound 
was fatal. This murder drove the city wild. The 
populace was now aroused, and woe betide any lawyer 
or official or judge who would dare, in the slightest, 
to obstruct the path of speedy justice. King was still 
in the hands of the physicians, when it was quietly 
rumored that the call for the gathering of the Vigilance 
Committee had been sent out. This rumor was prema- 
ture, but it was made a fact the following day. The 
next few days saw the committee reenroUed, fully 
organized in companies of one hundred, well-armed, 
in perfect control and under efficient leadership, and 
on the following Sunday morning, at noon, San Fran- 
cisco witnessed the quiet and orderly assembling of 
several companies of the Vigilantes, who, at a given 



JAMES KING OF WILLIAM 169 

moment, silently and solemnly marched to the old 
Broadway jail under the shadow of Telegraph Hill. 
" They came together," says Hittell, " with admirable, 
almost mathematical precision; and, as they fell into 
position, they of course understood what was intended. 
It was an extraordinary spectacle. The whole place was 
closely invested by armed men, not indeed in uniform, 
but with muskets and bayonets flashing in the brilliant 
sunlight. Some few had hunting rifles or shot-guns, 
and one tall Nantucket whaleman, besides a navy 
revolver in his belt, carried a harpoon and several 
fathoms of rope on his shoulder. Around and, as it 
were, hemming in all, crowding the streets, co\'ering 
the summit and vacant slopes of Telegraph Hill and 
the neighboring roofs, and filling the porticoes and 
windows, were dense masses of people, eager to see 
what was to be done, and hushed in expectation." 

The leaders of the Vigilantes demanded from Sheriff 
Scannell the surrender of the jail, and also the persons 
of the two prisoners, — Cora (who was being held for 
a new trial) and Casey. In due time they were both 
forthcoming, and were lodged in an impromptu jail 
provided by the Vigilance Committee at their head- 
quarters. 

The day of Cora's trial was set for Tuesday, the 
20th of May, and soon after it began the marshal an- 
nounced the death of King, which had just occurred. 
Cora was found guilty. Then Casey's trial took place, 
with the same result. Both men were sentenced to 
death, and, on Thursday, the twenty-second, at the 
time King's funeral was taking place, Cora and Casey 



170 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

were hanged at the Vigilance Headquarters on Sacra- 
mento Street. King was buried at Lone INIountain, 
while Cora and Casey were both entombed in the old 
Mission Dolores Cemetery, where their elaborate 
tombstones are still objects of interest to the curious. 

King was dead, but his memory still lives, and 
though corruption has since flourished in the city for 
which he gave his life, there can be no question but 
that the good he accomplished has continued to seed 
and will in the years yet to come bring forth good fruit. 



CHAPTER XIX 

THE ELOQUENT HERO OF PATRIOTISM, THOMAS STARR 

KING 

IT will be difficult for almost every young reader 
of this sketch of Thomas Starr King to realize 
to the full the significance of the statement that, during 
our Civil War, this Unitarian clergyman was, without 
question, the foremost citizen of California. To under- 
stand this term aright, even in a limited measure, it 
is necessary to make clear the condition California was 
in at the dawn of the rebellion. There was a large 
Southern population, and some of the important offices 
were held by open Southern sympathizers. Prior to 
i860 it might be said with truth that a large number of 
Californians were in favor of slavery and Southern 
principles in general. In the presidential campaign of 
i860 John B. Weller delivered a speech for the Breck- 
enridge, or so-called " chivalry " Democrats, in which 
he said: " I do not know whether Lincoln will be 
elected or not, but I do know that, if he is elected and 
if he attempts to carry out his doctrines, the South will 
surely withdraw from the Union. And I should con- 
sider them less than men if they did not." 

The Democrats of the State were widely divided 
in the i860 election, but there can be little doubt that, 
had they stood together, they would have carried the 



172 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

State by an overwhelming majority, the combined vote 
of the two sections of the party totalling about seventy- 
two thousand, while the Republican vote was only 
about thirty- nine thousand. And had the State had a 
Democratic governor and officials, there is no knowing 
what a struggle the loyalists would have had thrust 
upon them. As it was, the fight was sharp and severe, 
for while Governor Downey was a professed Unionist, 
he was " still hampered with old-time doctrines when 
slavery ruled unquestioned, and he did not receive and 
welcome soon enough the new light of freedom which 
had arisen in the land," The military commander of 
the Department of California was Brigadier- General 
Albert Sidney Johnston, a native of Kentucky, and a 
strong Southern champion. But he was relieved in 
favor of a Union general, went immediately South, 
and was killed while leading the secession army at the 
battle of Shiloh. Yet in July, 1861, — over three 
months after Fort Sumter had been fired upon, and 
the war was fairly begun, — a prominent lawyer named 
Edmund Randolph, who had been thought to be a 
staunch Unionist, made a speech at a Democratic 
convention in Sacramento in which he said: '* My 
thoughts and my heart are not here to-night in this 
house. Far to the east, in the homes from which we 
came, tyranny and usurpation, with arms in its hands, 
is this night, perhaps, slaughtering our fathers, our 
brothers, and our sisters, and outraging our homes in 
every conceivable way shocking to the heart of humanity 
and freedom. To me it seems a waste of time to talk. 
For God's sake, tell me of battles fought and won. 



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JAMES CAPEN ADAMS, FROM AN OLD WOODCUT. 



Page ISO 



THOMAS STARR KING 173 

Tell me of usurpers overthrown; that Missouri is 
again a free State, no longer crushed under the armed 
heel of a reckless and odious despot. Tell me that 
the State of Maryland lives again; and oh! let us read, 
let us hear, at the first moment, that not one hostile foot 
now treads the soil of Virginia! If this be rebellion, 
then I am a rebel. Do you want a traitor ? Then am I 
a traitor. For God's sake, speed the ball; may the 
lead go quick to his heart, and may our country 
be free from the despot usurper that now claims the 
name of President of the United States." 

Not so much was thought or said of this, as it was 
put down to the extravagance of excitement, but when, 
the following month, the leading Presbyterian clergy- 
man of San Francisco, who had come from New 
Orleans, began to preach secession to his congrega- 
tion (in which were many Unionists as well as Southern 
sympathizers), and to pray for " presidents and vice- 
presidents," the city and State were up in arms. 

Out over the tumult of the city at once was heard a 
trumpet call to duty that thrilled every heart. It was 
a comparatively new voice in California, and that of a 
man only about thirty-five years of age, yet it had al- 
ready been heard by delighted thousands on various 
topics of spiritual and ethical value. It was that of 
Thomas Starr King. He had already clearly shown 
his position in regard to the rebellion by lectures on 
Washington, Daniel Webster and the Constitution of the 
United States, Lexington and Concord, and by preach- 
ing a rousingly patriotic sermon entitled " The Great 
Uprising." In this sermon, " after emphatically de- 



174 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

daring that it is the duty of a Christian minister to 
feel no personal animosity to any human being, he 
distinguished between a wTong done to himself and a 
wTong done to the community. He illustrated the 
distinction in this reference to the President of the 
Confederate States: ' He is a representati\'e to my soul 
of a force of evil. His cause is pollution and a horror. 
His banner is a black flag. I could pray for him as 
one man, a brother man, in his private, affectional, 
and spiritual relations to heaven. But as President 
of the seceding States, head of brigand forces, organic 
representative of the powers of destruction within our 
country, — pray for him ! — as soon for Antichrist ! 
Never! ' It would, he added, be as incongruous for 
him as he prayed for Abraham Lincoln, as it would be 
for an English churchman, during the Sepoy rebellion, 
to have prayed for Queen Victoria and Nana Sahib 
in the same breath." The close of his sermon solemnly 
echoed the tone that rang through the paragraphs 
preceding it: " God bless the President of the United 
States, and all who serve with him the cause of a common 
country! God grant the blessing of repentance and 
return to allegiance to all our enemies, even the traitors 
in their high places! God preserve from defeat and 
disgrace the sacred flag of our fathers! God give us 
all the spirit of service and sacrifice in a righteous 
cause! " 

The effect of such clean-cut, direct patriotism was 
soon felt, not only in San Francisco and the State of 
California, but throughout the whole nation. In Cali- 
fornia, besides the large number friendly to the South, 



THOMAS STARR KING 175 

and the Unionists, there was a considerable army of 
the timid, the lukewarm, the " temporizers," • — those 
who doubted the wisdom or prudence of using force 
against the rebels. 

To convince these of their duty to the Union became 
Starr King's passion, and he went up and down the 
State, into cities, towns, lumber and mining camps, 
agricultural settlements, tiny villages and hamlets, 
anywhere, everywhere he could secure an audience, 
and cried aloud his message of patriotism and loyalty. 
In the words of a former president of the State Univer- 
sity, his own son-in-law, Horace Davis: "His power 
and influence were soon felt, and strong measures 
were used to force him out of the field. He received 
anonymous letters hinting at assassination. He was 
openly threatened with personal violence, and pistols 
were actually drawn on him in rude interior camps; 
but no persuasion, either of love or fear, could turn 
him from what he deemed his high privilege of defend- 
ing his country." 

After the elections had made all secure as far as 
official loyalty was concerned, he set forth with equal 
earnestness, vigor and eloquence to call upon the people 
of his adopted State to give real and practical, visible and 
tangible help to the cause, as well as their sympathy. 
The East was sending men and money. California 
was sending neither. He cried: "If the government 
thinks it best not to call on us for men, we can at least 
send our money for the wounded, the sick and the 
suffering." 

In Mr. Davis's words: " Mr. King entered into 



176 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

his movement with intense energy, for it appealed to 
his whole nature. . . . He traversed the State in its 
length and breadth, appealing to their love of country 
and their pity for the sick and wounded soldiers, or- 
ganizing committees everywhere to carry on the work, 
o\'er the Siskiyou Mountains by stage into Oregon, 
and on north to Puget Sound and Vancouver's Island. 
You know the result, the inestimable mercies and 
comforts that came to our soldiers from these gifts. 
The Pacific Coast gave nearly one and a half million 
dollars; and its gifts came at the most critical period, 
when they could do the greatest good. 

" The money thus raised was the ' Sanitary Fund,' 
supplying the * ammunition ' for the work of the 
Sanitary Commission, which cared for the sick and 
wounded soldiers and their wives and children; and 
California and the Pacific Coast, aroused by Starr 
King's stirring eloquence, raised for this work almost 
as much as the rest of the United States combined. 
He showed us it was our duty to do this, owing to our 
not sending any soldiers to participate actively in the 
conflict." 

At his death, one of our California poets and phil- 
osophers, James Linen, thus wrote: " Although physi- 
cally weak, Thomas Starr King was mentally strong, 
and the deep-toned thunders of his voice made the 
formidable fabric of political corruption tremble to its 
base. No man could wield intellectual weapons more 
vigorously, or like him carry by storm the convictions 
of an audience. By his warm and powerful appeals, 
stubborn prejudice melted away. His was never a 



THOMAS STARR KING 177 

puerile conflict, but a battle of moral strength. It 
was a warfare enlisted on the side of grand patriotic 
principles, which he proudly refused to compromise. 
His glowing eloquence threw a charm and splendor over 
all his controversies. His mind was liberal and com- 
prehensive. Free from arrogance and pride, he was 
affable and courteous in his manner. He was plain 
in appearance and gentle as a lamb among his friends. 
He was terrible, however, in his grand philippics 
against rebels and the abettors of treason. Viewing 
slavery as a moral, withering evil, an enemy of free 
institutions, and the cause of all his country's troubles, 
he sought its overthrow as a national curse, and con- 
sequently directed all the energies of his mental power 
against the demoralizing system. He lo\ed his country, 
and glorified in its starry flag, which gives assurance of 
protection to millions. 

" No one could question the lofty purity of his pa- 
triotism. While he regretted the existing rebellion, 
he nobly ad\'Ocated its speedy repression. His warmest 
sympathies were with the sacred cause of freedom, 
which he looked upon as the cause of God. His feelings 
were entirely on the side of Liberty and her brave de- 
fenders, the gallant soldiers of the North." 

Tireless in his efforts, sparing not himself in the great 
cause that was so dear to his heart, his feeble body felt 
the fearful strain. As one of his Eastern friends WTOte : 

" The soul of this Christian patriot seemed to kindle 
into an ever- increasing blaze with the fuel which the 
events of the war supplied, and it constantly broadened 
as it blazed. Indeed, the only question started by 



178 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

his admiring friends was this: How long will this un- 
wearied inward fire continue before it begins to con- 
sume the frail body which contains it ? " 

It was not long before the question was answered. 
Attacked by a throat disease, supposed to have been 
diphtheria, he was carried away so rapidly that his 
physician, when the distinguished patient demanded to 
know his condition, was compelled to answer that he 
did not think he could live another half hour. With 
bravery and calmness he heard this death-sentence, 
dictated and signed his will, sent messages to his East- 
ern friends, bade a loving adieu to his loved ones, 
and quietly and fearlessly took the hand of Death, 
and went into the presence of God. 

The Rev. William D. Simonds thus tersely states 
the effect of his life upon his own and succeeding gen- 
erations: " Scarcely forty years of age, a Californian 
only from i860 to 1864, he had in this brief period 
so won the hearts of men that jn honor of his funeral 
the legislature and all the courts adjourned, the na- 
tional authorities fired minute guns in the bay, while 
all the flags in the city of San Francisco and on the 
ships hung at half-mast. How Californians loved this 
man we can but dimly understand, the feeling was so 
tender, strange and deep. Men of the most diverse 
creeds, agreeing in little else, were united in calling 
Starr King the ' Saint of the Pacific Coast.' Not all 
the years that since have passed — years so fatal to 
many reputations — have hidden from the thought of 
the people the story of that saintly life. One of the 
giant sequoia trees of the INIariposa Grove bears his 



THOMAS STARR KING 179 

name, and a dome of the High Sierras near the Yosem- 
ite Valley is called Mount Starr King. Loving hands 
have made his grave under the shadow of that church 
which is his monument, and Golden Gate Park contains 
a splendid statue of the preacher and patriot — the 
man ' who saved California to the Union.' " 

WHITTIER ON THOMAS STARR KING 

" The great work laid upon his two score years 
Is done, and well done. If we drop our tears 
Who loved him as few men were ever loved, 
We mourn no blighted hope nor broken plan 
Wiih him whose life stands rounded and approved 
In the full growth and stature of a man. 
Mingle, O bells, along the western slope. 
With your deep toll a sound of faith and hope ! 
Wave cheerily still, O banner, half-way down, 
From thousand-masted bay and steepled town I 
Let the strong organ with its loftiest swell 
Lift the proud sorrow of the land, and tell 
That the brave sower saw his ripened grain. 
O east and west, O morn and sunset, twain 
No more forever I — has he lived in vain 
Who, priest of freedom, made ye one, and told 
Your bridal service from his life of gold." 



CHAPTER XX 

THE HEROIC HUNTER OF GRIZZLY BEARS, JAMES CAPEN 
ADAMS 

IN the early '50's and '6o's one of the picturesque 
figures of San Francisco was James Capen Adams, 
well known over the whole continent as hunter and 
tamer of grizzly bears, who had taught two great 
grizzlies to carry his packs for him when he went on 
his mountaineering trips. Indeed, so remarkable were 
his adventures, that Theodore H. Hittell, one of Cali- 
fornia's historians, wrote a dignified book of nearly 
four hundred pages giving a graphic account of his 
experiences. From this book the following extracts 
are made. 

Adams was born in Medway, Massachusetts, in 1807. 
He was whole-souled in whatever he undertook, so 
when he grew tired of shoe-making and engaged himself 
to capture wild animals for a company of showmen, he 
entered into his new enterprise with a will. While still 
a young man, the rash daring of his character revealed 
itself in his determination to conquer a Bengal tiger 
that had hitherto proven intractable. After entering 
its cage several times, he began to pride himself upon his 
success, when the treacherous creature fell upon him, 
swept him to the ground and drove his teeth and claws 
into him. He was rescued with the utmost difficulty. 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS i8i 

This disaster put a stop to Adams's hunting for some 
fifteen or more years; and for a time rendered it prob- 
lematical whether he would ever recover. 

When the California gold excitement broke out, 
Adams joined the great army of pioneers and reached 
the Golden State by way of Mexico in the fall of 1849. 
He had various experiences, until, in the fall of 1852, 
to use his own words, " disgusted with the world and 
dissatisfied with myself, I abandoned all my schemes 
for the accumulation of wealth, turned my back upon 
the society of my fellows, and took the road towards 
the most unfrequented parts of the Sierra Nevada, 
resolved henceforth to make the wilderness my home 
and wild beasts my companions." 

He became friendly with a near by band of Indians, 
and they helped him in various ways, showing him their 
method of tanning the skins of the animals he shot. 
He made for himself a complete suit of buckskin, and 
ever after this was his costume. When the Indians 
moved down the river to avoid the winter, Adams re- 
mained alone, and for months he did not see a human 
being. Yet he declares these to have been the happiest 
months of his life. He thus describes the grizzly king 
of the mountains: 

" The mountains are the favorite haunts of the 
grizzly bear, the monarch of American beasts, and, 
in many respects, the most formidable animal in the 
world to be encountered. In comparison with the lion 
of Africa and the tiger of Asia, though these may ex- 
hibit more activity and blood-thirstiness, the grizzly 
is not second in courage and excels them in power. 



i82 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Like the regions which he inhabits, there is a vastness in 
his strength which makes him a fit companion for the 
monster trees and giant rocks of the Sierra, and places 
him, if not the first, at least in the first rank of all quad- 
rupeds. 



" The grizzly bear of California, in the consciousness 
of strength and magnanimity of courage, alone of all 
animals, stands unappalled in the face of any enemy, 
and turns not from the sight of man. He may not 
seek the conflict, but he never flies from it. He may 
not feed upon royal meat, nor feel the flow of royal 
blood in his veins; but he is unapproachable, over- 
whelming. The lion and the tiger are like the desert 
with its fiery simoons and tornadoes; the grizzly bear 
of California like the mountains with their frosts and 
avalanches. . . . 

" He sometimes weighs as much as two thousand 
pounds. He is of a brown color, sprinkled with grayish 
hairs. When aroused, he is, as has been said before, 
the most terrible of all animals in the world to en- 
counter; but ordinarily will not attack man, except 
under peculiar circumstances. It is of this animal 
that the most extraordinary feats of strength are re- 
corded. It is said, with truth, that he can carry off a 
full-grown horse or buffalo, and that, with one blow 
of his paw, he can stop a mad bull in full career. When 
roused, and particularly when wounded, there is no 
end to his courage; he fights till the last spark of life 
expires, fearing no odds, and never deigning to turn 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS 183 

his heel upon the combat. It is to him that the appella- 
tions of science, ursus jerox and ursus horribilis are 
peculiarly applicable." 

Adams thus describes his camp : "It consisted 
merely of a con\'enient spot, where wood, water and 
herbage were near at hand. There we would unpack 
our mules, turn them out to graze, and build a large 
fire, which was seldom allowed to go down. In the day, 
this fire served for culinary purposes; at night, for 
warmth and protection. I slept invariably in my blan- 
kets, upon the ground; never in any house, or within 
any inclosure, unless the weather was rainy, when a 
few boughs, disposed into a kind of booth, would con- 
stitute all my shelter from the elements. On a few 
occasions, a blanket was spread to keep off the rain 
or dampness; but, as a general rule, my bed was 
entirely exposed." 

When Adams entered the mountains, it was with no 
intention of becoming a hunter of bears. This change 
came about owing to the fact that his brother dis- 
covered his whereabouts, came to see him, and finally 
urged him to enter into a partnership, by the terms 
of which he was to capture wild animals alive, or 
secure their skins, send them to his brother and 
receive a certain share of the proceeds. About this 
time he fell in with a man named William Sykesey, 
who for some time became a' sharer in his perils and 
dangers. 

One of his first experiences was to shoot a grizzly 
bear and then capture her two year-old cubs, both of 
which he tamed, and one of which became his insep- 



i84 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

arable companion and friend for many years, — the 
celebrated Lady Washington. 

After slaying the mother, he thought he could easily 
secure the cubs. Says he: " As I rushed at them, they 
retreated; as I pursued, they broke away, and, doub- 
ling, shot past with a rapidity of motion which de- 
fied all my skill. I chased a long time without success; 
and, finally, when they and I were nearly worn out, 
they suddenly turned and made so violent an attack 
upon me that I was compelled, for my personal safety, 
to betake myself to a tree, and was glad to find one to 
climb. Although but little more than a year old, I saw 
that they had teeth and claws which were truly formi- 
dable." 

For half an hour they kept him treed and then, not 
" understanding the art of starving an enemy " — 
as an older bear does — they went away. But he was 
now bent on their capture, and with the aid of some 
Indians finally succeeded in doing so by lying in wait 
for them at the spring where they came to drink. While 
awaiting their coming and a good opportunity to 
capture them, he shot and killed another grizzly, which 
supplied him with meat. Here is his account of his part 
of the capture. When the animals came he pursued 
one and the Indians the other: " My cub, which proved 
to be a female, bounded into the plain, and required a 
long chase. She ran quite a mile before it was possible 
for me to throw the lasso, which was no sooner over 
her head than she poked it off, and started on again. I 
followed several miles, and threw the lasso over her 
again and again, as many as seven times, before it kept 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS 185 

its place; but it did finally retain its hold, and she was 
mine. I immediately sprang from my horse, and, 
whipping out a muzzle and cords from my pockets, 
soon had her bound head and foot. She was so beau- 
tiful that I had to stop and admire her some time 
before going to see what my comrades had done. 

" They had been equally successful, though they 
had not come off so easily in the combat, having been 
pretty well scratched." 

Adams gives a long account of his experiences in 
taming Lady Washington and Jackson, as he respect- 
ively named his two cubs, and he contends that if 
the bear be taken early enough — even the dreaded 
grizzly — "he grows up a devoted friend, exhibiting 
such remarkable qualities of domestication as almost 
to lead one to suppose that he was intended, as well as 
the dog, for the companionship of man." 

Be this as it may, it certainly was not long before 
he had these cubs well-trained, and in the course of 
his narrative he tells us of Lady Washington's accom- 
panying him on his trips, carrying his packs, warning 
him of the presence of foes, sleeping by his side and 
saving him from cold, and of Ben Franklin — another 
grizzly which he captured later — saving his life, for 
he had taught Ben to go hunting with him. 

On one occasion he and Sykesey built a bear trap oppo- 
site a precipitous hill which was covered with chaparral, 
and appeared entii^ely overgrown with a thick and 
vigorous vegetation of creeping and branching vines 
which had become interwoven. Here let Adams tell the 
storv. 



i86 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" One evening as we were about gi\'ing over work 
for the day, my attention was attracted by a noise 
on this hUl; and, upon casting my eyes upward, I 
beheld a large grizzly bear coming down, back fore- 
most, allowing her weight to carry her, while she re- 
tarded what would otherwise have been too rapid a 
descent by holding on to the rocks and bushes with her 
claws. So ludicrous was this mode of progression, — 
if coming down tail foremost can be called progression, 
and so droll her movements in catching at every twig 
and branch in her course, that, but for the danger of 
my situation, I could have laughed outright. As, how- 
ever, laughing or any other noise, under the circum- 
stances, might have exposed us to immediate peril, 
I kept perfectly silent, and beckoned Sykesey to reach 
me my rifle, which was leaning against a tree near where 
he stood. As he did so, I whispered that we were in a 
dangerous situation, and that it would require all our 
coolness and nerve to escape destruction. At the same 
time, I cautioned him to reserve his fire and be ready 
in case my shot should prove ineffectual; and, at all 
events, to stand by me in case of extremity. I spoke 
thus, because the fellow seemed frightened; but this 
solemn talk frightened him still more; he, however, 
promised to obey my instructions, and stand by me like 
a man. 

" By this time the bear had slid down within shoot- 
ing distance; but, her position not presenting so fair 
a mark as was desired, and there not now being light 
enough to procure good aim, I was loath to fire; never- 
theless, feeling that it would be the only opportunity, 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS 187 

and trusting to good fortune, I blazed away. The smoke 
hardly lifted, and the echoes were hardly still, when, 
crack! went Sykesey's rifle too; and, upon looking 
around, I saw that he not only had fired, but had also 
taken to his heels, and was running as fast as his legs 
would carry him, leaving me to take the chances alone. 
There was, however, no time to reprove this cowardly 
conduct, for the bear now came down with a tumbling 
plunge, and I drew my bowie-knife in the expectation 
of an immediate conflict. Indeed. I braced myself for 
a deadly encounter, when, very unexpectedly, the 
bear rushed past, perhaps not seeing me, and bounded 
away for the dense thicket in the ra\ine below. Her 
motions, and a few drops of blood which stained her 
course, showed that she was badly wounded. Catching 
up my rifle, and reloading as quickly as possible, I 
pursued, in hopes of obtaining another shot and finish- 
ing the business; but before I was able to overtake 
her she gained the thicket, which was too dense, and 
it was now too dark, to attempt to enter." 

The following day, as they passed the spot where 
the bear disappeared in the chaparral, Adams taunted 
Sykesey and declared that if he would exhibit a little 
more courage than he had done on the preceding eve- 
ning he would enter the chaparral and look for the 
animal. On Sykesey protesting that he would " stand 
by him to the last drop of his blood," they entered the 
thicket and followed the track of the bear, only to find 
her dead in her den. 

Soon after this they saw several large black wolves 
in a ravine, while they were on the top of a high preci- 



i88 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

pice almost over them. Adams shot, killing two and 
wounding another in the shoulder. He says: 

" Having no thought of any difficulty, I dropped 
my rifle, drew my knife, climbed down the precipice, 
and gave the wounded wolf chase. Upon overtaking 
him I seized him by the tail and threw him upon the 
ground, with the object of stabbing him; but, by an 
unexpected turn, he snapped at my right forearm and 
completely penetrated it with his fangs, and so potent 
was the bite that the knife dropped from my unnerved 
hand. For a few moments the pain was excessive; 
but when the first paroxysm was a little over, I drew 
my revolver, and finished the beast by a shot in the 
heart. Upon turning up my buckskin sleeve, the 
blood flowed profusely, and the wound showed itself 
to be severe; one of much less severity, received from a 
coyote bite since my return from the wilderness, and 
the help of three surgeons, kept my arm in a sling eight 
months, and came near costing me my hand. 

" But, in the mountains, I acted as my own doctor, 
and practised the water-cure system with great success. 
I therefore merely directed my Indian, when he had 
loaded his rifle, and came up, to wet my handkerchief 
in cold water and wTap it tightly about the wound. In 
civilized life, when an injury of this kind is received, it 
is poulticed and bandaged; sometimes probed and 
lanced; and, frequently, very bad work indeed is the 
result; but experience has taught me that cold water 
and nature are apt to be better than salves and doctors ; 
and I would undertake to cure almost any bite, not 
poisonous, by simply dressing it with cold water. A 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS 189 

simple cut of the finger by nature heals rapidly, but, 
if plastered up, remains sore many days." 

While thus wounded he had to walk to his camp, 
several miles through an almost unexplored region, 
and on the way killed a coyote and had a good scare 
from a panther. The next morning, after more water 
treatment, his wound was free from soreness and soon 
healed. 

One day, as he was returning home, he gave his rifle 
to one of his companions, and with Lady Washington 
started to go alone. Tempted to shoot some antelope 
with his pistol, he got into thick chaparral, then sud- 
denly bethought himself that it might be dangerous, 
as there were signs of numerous grizzlies around. 
He finally decided to return and began backing out. 
" Suddenly," he says, " Lady Washington gave a 
snort and chattered her teeth. I wheeled around at this, 
and directly behind the Lady, full in sight, standing 
upon his hind legs and wickedly surveying us, stood a 
savage old grizzl)'. That he had hostile intentions, 
all his actions clearly showed; and there I was, almost 
without arms, and with the Lady as well as myself to 
take care of. 

" In this emergency, I seized the chain with which 
the Lady was usually tied, and which was now wrapped 
about her neck, and unwound it as noiselessly as pos- 
sible. I was then about to move to a tree which stood 
near, when the enemy dropped upon his all fours, came 
a little nearer, and rose again. Here was a dilemma. I 
knew from the nature of the beast that if I moved now, 
I was to expect him either to instantly attack or pre- 



ipo HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

cipitately fly, — but the former much more probable 
than the latter. I did not wish to hasten an unforeseen 
determination on his part, however, and therefore 
stood stock-still, with my pistol in my hand; and thus 
we both, motionless as stone, eyed each other. It is 
difficult to tell how long the bear w^ould have gazed 
without acting, — not long, probably ; but seeing his 
indecision, I resolved to turn it to my advantage; and 
suddenly discharging the pistol, rattling the iron chain, 
and at the same time yelling with all my might, I had 
the gratification of seeing the enemy turn tail and run, 
as if frightened out of his wits. Not satisfied with 
this, I follow^ed after him yelling and shouting, with the 
Lady growling, and the chain clanking. It seemed as 
if a thousand evil ones had sprung up all at once in the 
wilderness, and the old bear tore through the bushes 
as if each particular one was after him." 

One da}' he was chasing some buffaloes, when they 
dashed into a marsh. " Seeing them fairly in the mud, 
we sought low places in the bank, and rode after them; 
but, as the soil grew less and less firm, we soon dis- 
mounted, and pursued on foot. The animals plunged 
deeper and deeper, and, being hampered with their 
great bodies, completely mired; so that we easily 
reached them, and in a few minutes slaughtered four. 

" There was one lying in the mud a little further 
distant, and, as my rifle was discharged, I resolved 
to kill him with my bowie-knife. ... I approached 
without sufficient caution, for, upon getting close, with 
my knife drawn ready to plunge into his nei:k, he sud- 
denly made a mighty effort, lunged against me, and 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS 191 

laid me sprawling before him. He then, with his 
crooked horns, butted against my prostrate form, 
and pressed me deeply into the mire; so that I was in 
great danger from being drowned. The mud was soft 
and yielding, and my body sank deeply; but this turned 
out to be a fortunate circumstance; for, had the ground 
been harder, I should certainly have been ground to 
pieces. While thus going down into what threatened 
to be my grave, Kimball ran up, and, just as I was 
disappearing, sent a ball into the bull's body, which 
made him throw up his head. In this moment, I sprang 
to my feet, with the knife still in my hand, and stabbed 
the beast to the heart, and he soon expired." 

About a week later the whole camp was aw^akened 
by the presence of a grizzly which, however, retreated 
before a pistol shot. " This adventure excited the whole 
camp, and particularly Foster, who was of a chivalrous 
and impulsive character, and wished to go after the 
beast, even in the darkness. Such madness I would 
by no means allow; but, in the morning, we had hardly 
started upon the hunt, when we came upon a large 
grizzly with two large cubs. She was probably the 
visitor of the previous night; and Foster was almost 
beside himself for a shot. I cautioned him to go around 
with the rest of us to a wooded knoll beyond the animal ; 
but he thought he could kill a bear as easily as a buck, 
and determined to advance from where he was. 

" Seeing that he w^as bent upon his self-willed resolu- 
tion, we exacted only a promise that he would not 
fire until we reached the knoll; but, before getting upon 
the top of it, we were startled by the report of his rifle. 



192 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and, at the same time, one of those terrific roars which 
the grizzly makes when it rushes for a man. I knew, 
in an instant, there was danger, and sprang forward; 
but only in time to witness poor Foster's death. He 
had wounded the brute, and then ran for a tree; but, 
before he could climb out of reach, the bear seized his 
feet in her mouth, and dragged him to the ground, 
and later, with one blow, dashed out his life." 

Another time, in the Yosemite, — that grand moun- 
tain valley that stands unique as one of the most pic- 
turesque and varied in the world, and whose name, 
in the Indian, Yo-ham-e-te, signifies Grizzly Bear, — 
he waited for three days for a bear to come out of her 
cave, and when he grew impatient, went in, determined 
to bring the adventure to a close. " Before putting my 
plan into execution, I stuck my cap full of green twigs, 
and stationed myself in such a manner in the bushes 
that it would take a nice eye to discern my form, even 
though looking directly towards me. Having thus 
disposed myself, cocking and drawing my rifle, I uttered 
one of those terrific yells with which I have so often 
started a grizzly to his feet. It echoed like the roar of a 
lion up the canyon; and in a moment afterwards there 
was a booming in the den like the puffing and snorting 
of an engine in a tunnel, and the enraged animal 
rushed out, growling and snuffing, as if she could belch 
forth the fire of a volcano. She rose upon her hind 
feet, and exhibited a monster form, — limbs of terrible 
strength. She looked around in every du-ection; but 
in a few moments, seeing nothing to attack, she sat 
down upon her haunches, with her back towards me 



JAMES CAPEN ADAMS 193 

and her face towards the opposite side of the canyon, 
as if her enemy were there. 

" During these few minutes I stood as motionless as a 
statue, hardly breathing, waitmg and watching for an 
opportunity to fire. Had I met such an animal un- 
awares, in an unexpected place, her ferocity would have 
made me tremble; but after my long watch I was 
anxious to commence the. attack, and felt as steady 
as a piece of ordnance upon a battery. As I watched, 
I saw her turn her head towards the den, and, fearing 
she would retire, I gave a low, sharp whistle, which 
brought her to her feet again, with her breast fronting 
directly tow^ards me. It w^as then, having my rifle 
already drawn, that I fired; and in an instant, dropping 
the rifle, I drew my pistol in one hand and my knife 
in the other. The bear, as the ball slapped loudly 
in the fat of her body, staggered and fell backwards, 
and began pawing and biting the ground, — a sure 
sign of a deadly hurt. . . . The work was nearly done; 
but so anxious was I to complete it at once that I com- 
menced leaping over the bushes; when, gathering her 
savage strength, she arose, and, with one last, desperate 
effort, sprang towards me. The distance between us 
was only thirty feet, but, fortunately, full of brush, 
and she soon weakened with the prodigious energy 
requisite to tear her way through it. I discharged the 
six shots of my re^'olver, the last of which struck under 
the left ear, and laid her still for a moment; when, 
leaping forward, my knife gave the final stroke." 

Later, Adams captured a young grizzly cub, which 
he called Ben Franklin, and which he afterwards 



194 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

brought to San Francisco where it became as well- 
known as Lady Washington, It was not until he had 
had many years of such exciting adventure that he 
finally settled down, giving to others some of the pleas- 
ure that he himself enjoyed in the friendship and com- 
panionship of his tame grizzly bears, and telling 
with quaint humor the stories the historian has pre- 
served for those who will come to live in our State 
when a wild bear will be as rare as it now is in England. 



CHAPTER XXI 

THE MAIL-CARRYING HERO OF THE SNOW-CROWNED 
SIERRAS, SNOW-SHOE THOMPSON 

THERE are those whose daily deeds, if performed 
by men in a different sphere of life, would be 
heralded as worthy of the world's praise. Yet the men 
who engage in such occupations perform them without 
a thought of outside considerations, regarding the dis- 
charge of their duty as the chief thing to be considered. 
Doubtless many and various motives could be found 
which have induced such men to enter upon their 
adventurous careers, and where the desire to benefit, 
or bring comfort to their fellow men is a prime motive, 
disinterestedness must be added to the heroism they 
display. 

Such was the characteristic of " Snow-shoe Thomp- 
son," one of the pioneer heroes of California, who, 
though well-knowTi fifty years ago, is now almost 
forgotten. To William Wright, a compeer of Bret 
Harte, Mark Twain, Joaquin Miller, and the earlier 
writers of California, who wrote under the nom de 
plume of Dan de Quille, in the Overland Monthly of 
October, 1886, I owe the following interesting story. 

" The most remarkable and most fearless of all 
our Pacific Coast mountaineers was John A. Thomp- 
son, popularly known as ' Snow-shoe Thompson.' 



196 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

For over twenty years he braved the winter storms, as 
both by day and by night he traversed the high Sierra. 
His name was the synonym for endurance and daring 
everywhere in the mountains, where he was well- 
known, and was famous in all the camps and settle- 
ments. He was seldom seen in the valleys, or any of 
the large towns except Sacramento, where he only 
went when business called him. Notwithstanding 
that he seldom left his mountain home, there are but 
few persons of middle age on the western side of the 
continent who have not heard of ' Snow-shoe Thomp- 
son,' or who have not in times past read an occasional 
paragraph in regard to some of his many wonderful 
exploits. Before the completion of the Central Pacific 
Railroad, when he was regularly crossing the Sierra 
Nevadas during the winter months, with the mails 
strapped upon his back, more was heard of him, 
through the newspapers and otherwise, than during the 
last few years of his life, yet every winter up to the 
last he lived, he was constantly performing feats that 
excited the wonder and admiration even of his neigh- 
bors and friends, though for years they had been 
familiar with his powers of endurance, and his un- 
daunted courage. 

" These feats would have been heralded far and wide 
had they been performed in a more accessible or popu- 
lous region. He, however, thought lightly of the daring 
and difficult things he did. They were nearly all done 
in the course of his regular business pursuits. It was 
very seldom that he went out of his way to do a thing 
merely to excite astonishment, or elicit applause." 




JOHN A. THOMPSON. 

(" Snow-Slioe " Tliompson.) 



Page I'M 



SNOW-SHOE THOMPSON 197 

Thompson was born at Upper Tins, Prestijeld, Nor- 
way, April 30, 1827. Ten years later his parents 
moved to the United States, and for a year lived in 
Illinois, before pushing on further into Missouri. 
Then in 1841 they moved to Iowa, remaining there until 
1845, when they returned to Illinois. In 185 1 John, 
then twenty-four years of age, was allured by the 
gold call, and came overland to HangtowTi (now 
Placerville), at which place, and also at Coon Hollow 
and Kelsey's Diggings, he worked as a miner. He 
soon became dissatisfied with the labor of mining, so, 
in 1854-1855, he went to.Putah Creek, in the Sacra- 
mento Valley, and set up as a rancher. But his eyes 
were constantly turned to the mountains, which he 
ardently loved, and he waited, longing and hoping for 
the time when he could return. 

" Early in the winter of 1856, while still at work on 
his Putah Creek ranch, Mr. Thompson read in the 
papers of the trouble experienced in getting the 
mails across the snowy summit of the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains. At the time he was engaged in cutting 
wood on his ranch. What he heard and read of the 
difficuhies encountered in the mountains, on account 
of the great depth of the snow, set him to thinking. 
When he was a boy, in Norway, snow-shoes were ob- 
jects as familiar to him as ordinary shoes are to the 
children of other lands. He determined to make a 
pair of snow-shoes out of the oak timbers he was en- 
gaged in splitting. Although he was but ten years of 
age at the time he left his native land, his recollections 
of the shoes he had seen there were in the main correct. 



198 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Nevertheless, the shoes he then made were such as 
would at the present day be considered much too heavy, 
and somewhat clumsy. They were ten feet in length, 
were four inches in width behind the part on which 
the feet rest, and in front were four inches and a quarter 
wide, 

" Having completed his snow-shoes to the best of 
his knowledge, Thompson at once set out for Placer- 
ville, in order to make experiments with them. Placer- 
ville was not only his old mining camp, but was also the 
principal mountain town on the ' Old Emigrant Road ' 
— the road over which the. mails were then carried. 
Being made out of green oak, Thompson's first shoes 
were very heavy. When he reached Placerville, he 
put them upon a pair of scales, and found that they 
weighed twenty-five pounds. But their owner was 
a man of giant strength, and he was too eager to be up 
and doing to lose time in making another pair out of 
lighter wood. 

*' Stealing away to retired places near the town, 
Thompson spent several days in practising on his snow- 
shoes, and he soon became so expert that he did not 
fear letting himself be seen in public on his snow-shoes. 

" When he made his first public appearance, he was 
already able to perform such feats as astonished all 
who beheld them. His were the first Norwegian snow- 
shoes ever seen in California. At that time, the only 
snow-shoes known were those of the Canadian pattern. 
Mounted upon his shoes — which were not unlike 
thin sled runners in appearance — and with his long 
balance-pole in his hands, he dashed down the sides 



SNOW-SHOE THOMPSON 199 

of the mountains at such a fearful rate of speed as to 
cause many to characterize the performance as fool- 
hardy. Not a few of his old friends among the miners 
begged him to desist, swearing roundly that he would 
dash his brains out against a tree, or plunge over some 
precipice and break his neck. But Thompson only 
laughed at their fears. With his feet firmly braced, 
and his balance-pole in his hands, he flew down the 
mountain slopes, as much at home as an eagle soaring 
and circling above the neighboring peaks. 

" He did not ride astride his guide-pole, nor trail it 
by his side in the snow, as is the practice of other snow- 
shoers when descending a steep mountain, but held 
it horizontally before him, after the manner of a tight- 
rope walker. 

" Having satisfied himself in regard to what he could 
do on his snow-shoes, Thompson declared himself 
ready to undertake to transport the mails across the 
mountains. His first trip was made in January, 1856. 
He went from Placerville to Carson Valley, a distance 
of ninety miles. With the mail bags strapped upon 
his back, he glided over fields of snow that were in 
places from thirty to fifty feet in depth, his long Nor- 
wegian shoes bearing him safely and swiftly along upon 
the surface of the great drifts. 

" Having successfully made the trip to Carson Valley 
and back to Placerville, Show- shoe Thompson became 
a necessity, and was soon a fixed institution of the moun- 
tains. He carried the mails between the two points 
all that winter. Through him was kept up the only 
land communication there was between the Atlantic 



200 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

States and California. No matter how wild the storms 
that raged in the mountains, he always came through, 
and generally on time. 

" The loads that Snow-shoe Thompson carried 
strapped upon his back would have broken down an 
ordinary man, though wearing common shoes and 
traveling on solid ground. The weight of the bags he 
carried was ordinarily from sixty to eighty pounds ; but 
one winter, when he carried the mails for Chorpenning, 
his load often weighed over one hundred pounds. 

" In going from Placerville to Carson Valley, owing 
to the great amount of uphill traveling, three days were 
consumed; whereas, he was able to go from Carson 
Valley to Placerville in two days, making forty-five 
miles a day. Not a house was then found in all that 
distance. Between the two points it was a Siberia of 
snow. 

" While traveling in the mountains, Snow-shoe 
Thompson never carried blankets, nor did he even 
wear an overcoat. The weight and bulk of such articles 
would have encumbered and discommoded him. Ex- 
ercise kept him warm while traveling, and when en- 
camped he always built a fire. During the first year 
or two after he went into the business, he carried a re- 
volver. Finding, however, that he had no use for 
such a weapon, and it being of the first importance 
to travel as light as possible, he presently concluded 
to leave his pistol at home. 

" All that he carried in the way of provisions was a 
small quantity of jerked beef, or dried sausage, and a 
few crackers or biscuits. The food that he took into 



SNOW-SHOE THOMPSON 201 

the mountains was all of a kind that could be eaten as 
he ran. For drink he caught up a handful of snow, 
or lay down for a moment and quaffed the water of 
some brook or spring. He never took with him liquor 
of any kind. He was a man that seldom tasted liquor. 

" ' Snow-shoe ' never stopped for storms. He always 
set out on the day appointed, without regard to the 
weather, and he traveled by nights as well as in the 
daytime. He pursued no regular path — in a trackless 
waste of snow there was no path to follow ■ — but kept 
a general route or course. By day he was guided by 
the trees and rocks, and by night looked to the stars, 
as does a mariner to his compass. With the places of 
many stars he was as familiar as ever was Hansteen, 
the great astronomer of the land of his birth. 

" At the time Thompson began snow-shoeing in the 
Sierras, nothing was known of the mysteries of ' dope ' 
— a preparation of pitch, tallow, and other ingredients, 
which being applied to the bottom of the shoes, enables 
the wearer to lightly glide over snow softened by the 
rays of the sun. Dope appears to have been a Cali- 
fornia discovery. It is made of different qualities, and 
different degrees of hardness and softness. As Thomp- 
son used no dope, soft snow stuck to, and so clogged 
his shoes, that it was sometimes impossible for him to 
travel over it. Thus, it frequently happened that he 
was obliged to halt for several hours during the day, 
and resume his journey at night, when a crust was 
frozen on the snow. 

" Snow-shoe's night camps — whenever the night 
was such as prevented him from pursuing his journey, 



202 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

or when it was necessary for him to obtain sleep — 
were generally made wherever he happened to be at 
the moment. He always tried, however, to find the 
stump of a dead pine, at which to make his camp. 
After setting fire to the dry stump, he collected a quantity 
of fir or spruce boughs, with which he constructed a 
sort of a rude couch or platform on the snow. Stretched 
upon his bed of boughs, with his feet to his fire, and his 
head resting upon one of Uncle Sam's mail bags, he 
slept as soundly as if occupying the best bed ever made; 
though, perhaps, beneath his couch, there was a depth 
of from ten to thirty feet of snow. 

" When unable to find a dry stump, he looked for a 
dead pine tree. He always selected a tree that had a 
decided lean. If he could avoid it, he never made 
his camp beside a tree that was perfectly straight. 
For this there was a good reason. It very often hap- 
pened that the tree set on fire in the evening was burned 
through, and fell to the ground before morning. When 
he had a leaning tree, at the foot of which to encamp, he 
was able to make his bed on the safe side; but when the 
tree stood perfectly erect, he knew not on which side 
of it to build his couch. It not infrequently happened 
that he was aroused from sleep in the morning hours 
by the loud cracking of the tree at the foot of which 
he was reposing, and he was then obliged to do some 
fast as well as judicious running, in order to save his 
life. This was a bit of excitement that he did not 
crave when wearied with a hard day's travel. 

" However, he did not always camp by trees and 
stumps. He sometimes crawled under shelving rocks, 



SNOW-SHOE THOMPSON 203 

and there made his bed of boughs, building a small fire 
on the bare ground in front of it. At a place called 
Cottage Rock, six miles below Strawberry Valley, he 
had a small, dry cavern, in the shape of an oven, in 
which he was in the habit of housing, as often as he 
could make it convenient to do so. There, his bed of 
boughs was always ready for him. Curled up in his 
cavern — which was but little larger than an ordinary 
baker's oven — with a fire of blazing logs in front, he 
slept in comfort and safety. He only camped when he 
felt the necessity of obtaining sleep, and when suffi- 
ciently refreshed by his slumbers was in the habit of 
arising and pursuing his journey, whatever the hour of 
the day or night, provided that a blinding snowstorm 
and utter darkness did not prevail." 

In all of his experiences, through darkness and storms, 
fog and blizzard, he was never once known to have lost 
his way. He accounted for this by an intuitive sense. 
He used to affirm, not boastingly, but as a matter of 
fact: " I was never lost — I can't be lost. I can go 
anywhere in the mountains, day or night, storm or 
shine. I can't be lost." Then tapping his forehead 
with his forefinger, he continued: " There's something 
in here which keeps me right." 

It has often been remarked that " republics are 
ungrateful," and in Thompson's case the aphorism was 
well justified. As Mr. Wright says: 

" Snow-shoe Thompson was one of those unfortunate 
persons whose lot in life is to do a great deal of work 
and endure many hardships for very little pay. For 
twenty vdnters he carried the mails across the Sierra 



204 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Nevada Mountains, at times when they could have been 
transported in no other way than on snow-shoes. 
After he began the business he made his home in the 
mountains, having secured a ranch in Diamond Valley, 
when for five winters in succession he was constantly 
engaged in carrying the mails across the snowy range. 
Two years he carried the United States mails when 
there was no contract for that service, and he got 
nothing. On both sides of the mountains he was told 
that an appropriation would be made and all would 
come out right with him; but he got nothing except 
promises. 

" When Chorpenning had the contract for carrying 
the mails, Thompson turned out with the oxen from 
his ranch and kept the roads open for a long time; 
and when there at last came such a depth of snow that 
the road could no longer be broken, he mounted his 
snow-shoes and carried the mails on his back. Chor- 
penning failed, and Thompson never received a dime 
for his work. 

" First and last, he did a vast deal of work for noth- 
ing. Some seasons our overland mail would not have 
reached California during the whole winter, had not 
Thompson turned out on his snow-shoes and carried 
the sack across the mountains. He took pride in the 
work. It challenged the spirit of adventure within him. 
It was like going forth to battle, and each successive 
trip was a victory. This being his feeling, he was all 
the more readily made to believe that in case he turned 
in and did the work, he would eventually be paid. 
As Mr. Thompson approached his fiftieth year, he 



SNOW-SHOE THOMPSON 205 

began to thdnk that in his old age he ought to receive 
something from the government in reward for the 
services he had performed. He asked but six thousand 
dollars for all he had done and endured during the 
twenty years. His petition to Congress was signed by 
all the State and other officials at Carson City, and by 
everyone else that was asked to sign it. In the winter 
of 1874 he went to Washington to look after his claim, 
but all he got was promises. 

" Thompson was a man of splendid physique, stand- 
ing six feet in his stockings and weighing one hundred 
and eighty pounds. His features were large, but regular 
and handsome. He had the blond hair and beard, 
and fair skin and blue eyes of his Scandina\ian an- 
cestors, and looked a true descendant of the sea-ro\ing 
Northmen of old. Although he spoke English as well 
as a native-born American, one would not have been 
surprised to have heard him break forth in the old 
Norse. Had he lived in the days when his ancestors 
were carrying terror to all the coasts of Europe, he 
would have been a leader, if not a king, among them. 
On the sea he would have been what he was in the 
mountains — a man most adventurous, fearless, and 
unconquerable. 

" He died at his ranch in Diamond Valley, thirty 
miles south of Carson City, Nevada, May 15, 1876, 
after an illness of but a few days, and when he was 
but forty- nine years and fifteen days old. His tomb 
is in Genoa, where a stone, on the top of which 
is carved a pair of snow-shoes, was erected by his 
widow. 



2o6 HEROES OE CALIFORNIA 

" He was the father of all the race of snow-shoers 
in the Sierra Nevadas; and in those mountains he was 
the pioneer of the pack-train, the stage-coach and the 
locomotive. On the Pacific Coast his equal in his 
particular line will probably never again be seen. 
The times and conditions are past and gone that called 
for men possessing the special qualifications that made 
him famous." 



CHAPTER XXII 

THE MOUNTAIN-CLIMBING HEROES OF THE SIERRAS. 
CLARENCE KING AND RICHARD COTTER 

TN a certain library is one whole shelf of large books 
-*- in reddish binding titled Annual Reports of the 
United States Geological Survey. At the head of the 
row is a small — and compared with the others, insig- 
nificant — volume. It has no great intrinsic value, and 
yet, to some people, that volume is more interesting 
than any of the others, for the reason that it is the First 
Annual Report of the Geological Survey, and bears 
the name of a different director from any of the others. 
Clarence King was the first director of the great scien- 
tific institution that was afterwards fully organized 
by that one-armed science- hero of Gettysburg — Major 
J, W. Powell; and he is intimately associated with 
California and dear to Californians because, in 1871, 
he published a volume — Mountaineering in the Sierra 
Nevada — that is one of the classics of English literature. 
But, different from many classics, this book is pulsating 
with fresh life. It is full of red blood, and out-of-doors 
and climbing and riding and adventure that thrills one 
as he reads. One of California's living authors of 
renown says there is but one book in her library that 
she cares to read every year, and that book is King's 
Mountaineering. This book, to some readers, is full of 



2o8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

that unconscious heroism, where the true hero writes 
simply and naively of great deeds, dismisses them with- 
out a word of comment, and leaves you to discover 
them for yourself. Hence, some parts of it are worthy 
of being read many times a year, as a few quotations 
may prove. 

The Geological Survey of California came into ex- 
istence in 1 86 1, under the guidance of Professor Josiah 
Whitney. It worked for about eleven years and was then 
practically given up, — nor has it since been resumed. 

One morning in 1864 Professor Brewer and his 
assistant, Hoffman (after whom two majestic moun- 
tains in the Sierra are named), attempted to reach the 
highest point in the range. They returned at night, 
terribly fatigued. " For eight whole hours they had 
worked up over granite and snow, mounting ridge 
after ridge, till the summit was reached about two 
o'clock," \vrites Clarence King. 

" These snowy crests bounding our view at the east- 
ward we had all along taken to be the summits of the 
Sierras, and Brewer had supposed himself to be climbing 
a dominant peak, from which he might look eastward 
over Owen's Valley and out upon leagues of desert. 
Instead of this, a vast wall of mountains, lifted still 
higher than his peak, rose beyond a tremendous can- 
yon, which lay like a trough between the two parallel 
ranks of peaks. Hoffman showed us on his sketch- 
book the profile of his new range, and I instantly 
recognized the peaks which I had seen from Mariposa, 
whose great white pile had led me to believe them the 
highest point in California. 



KING AND COTTER 209 

" Their peak, as indicated by the barometer, was 
in the region of thirteen thousand, four hundred feet, 
and a level across to the farther range showed its 
crests to be at least fifteen hundred feet higher. They 
had spent hours upon the summit scanning the eastern 
horizon, and ranging downward into the labyrinth of 
gulfs below, and had come at last with reluctance to the 
belief that to cross this gorge and ascend the eastern 
wall of peaks was impossible. 

" Brewer and Hoffman were old climbers, and their 
verdict of impossible oppressed me as I lay awake think- 
ing of it; but early next morning I had made up my 
mind, and, taking Cotter aside, I asked him in an easy 
manner whether he would like to penetrate the terra 
incognita with me at the risk of our necks, provided 
Brewer should consent. In a frank, courageous tone 
he answered, after his usual mode, ' Why not ? ' Stout 
of limb, stronger yet in heart, of iron endurance and 
a quiet, unexcited temperament, and, better yet, de- 
voted to me, I felt that Cotter was the one comrade 
I would choose to face death with, for I believed 
there was in his manhood no room for fear or 
shirk." 

Brewer finally gave his consent, though not with- 
out reluctance, and the trip was successfully made. 
Several times, both on the ascent and the descent, they 
came to the places which try men's souls. They had 
lively work in crossing King's Canyon and came at 
last to a spot where, " Looking down over the course we 
had come, it seemed and I really believe it was, an 
impossible descent; for one can climb upward with 



2IO HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

safety where he cannot downward. To turn back was 
to give up in defeat ; and we sat at least half an hour, 
suggesting all sorts of routes to the summit, accepting 
none and feeling disheartened. About thirty feet over 
our heads was another shelf, which, if we could reach, 
seemed to offer at least a temporary way upward. On 
its edge were two or three spikes of granite; whether 
firmly connected with the cliff, or merely blocks of 
debris, we could not tell from below. I said to Cotter, 
I thought of but one possible plan : it was to lasso one 
of these blocks, and to climb, sailor-fashion, hand 
over hand, up the rope. In the lasso 1 had perfect 
confidence, for I had seen more than one Spanish bull 
throw his whole weight against it without parting a 
strand. The shelf was so narrow that throwing the 
coil of rope was a very difficult undertaking. I tried 
three times, and Cotter spent five minutes vainly whirl- 
ing the loop up at the granite spikes. At last I made a 
lucky throw, and it tightened upon one of the smaller 
protuberances. I drew the noose close, and very gradu- 
ally threw my hundred and fifty pounds upon the rope; 
then Cotter joined me, and for a moment we both hung 
our united weight upon it. Whether the rock moved 
slightly, or whether the lasso stretched a little we were 
unable to decide; but the trial must be made, and I 
began to climb slowly. The smooth precipice- face 
against which my body swung offered no foothold, and 
the whole climb had therefore to be done by the arms, 
an effort requiring all one's determination. When about 
half-way up I was obliged to rest, and, curling my feet 
in the rope, managed to relieve my arms for a moment. 



KING AND COTTER 



211 



In this position I could not resist the fascinating tempta- 
tion of a survey downward. 

" Straight down, nearly a thousand feet below, at 
the foot of the rocks, began the snow, whose steep, 
roof-like slope, exaggerated into an almost vertical 
angle, curved down in a long, white field, broken far 
away by rocks and polished, round lakes of ice. 

" Cotter looked up cheerfully, and asked how I was 
making it; to which I answered that I had plenty of 
wind left. At that moment, when hanging between 
heaven and earth, it was a deep satisfaction to look 
down at the wild gulf of desolation beneath, and up 
to unknown dangers ahead, and feel my ner\es cool 
and unshaken. 

" A few pulls hand over hand brought me to the edge 
of the shelf, when, throwing an arm around the granite 
spike, I swung my body upon the shelf, and lay down 
to rest, shouting to Cotter that I was all right, and that 
the prospects upward were capital. After a few mo- 
ments' breathing I looked over the brink, and directed 
my comrade to tie the barometer to the lower end 
of the lasso, which he did, and that precious instrument 
was hoisted to my station, and the lasso sent down 
twice for knapsacks, after which Cotter came up the rope 
in his very muscular way, without once stopping to 
rest." 

They reached the dividing ridge up which they had 
hoped to go to reach the summit, and found it impracti- 
cable. There seemed but one way open to them. 
That was to descend into Kern Canyon and make the 
ascent that way. 



212 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" One look at the sublime white giant decided us. 
We looked down over the precipice, and at first could 
see no method of descent. Then we went back and 
looked at the road we had come up, to see if that were 
not possibly as bad; but the broken surface of the 
rocks was evidently much better climbing-ground than 
anything ahead of us. Cotter, with danger, edged his 
way along the wall to the east and I to the west, to see 
if there might not be some favorable point; but we 
both returned with the belief that the precipice in front 
of us was as passable as any of it. Down it we miist 

go. 

" After lying on our faces, looking over the brink, 
ten or twenty minutes, I suggested that by lowering 
ourselves on the rope we might climb from crevice 
to crevice; but we saw no shelf large enough for our- 
selves and knapsacks too. However, we were not 
going to give it up without a trial; and I made the 
rope fast around my breast, and, looping the noose over 
a firm point of rock, let myself slide gradually down 
to a notch forty feet below. There was only room be- 
side me for Cotter, so I made him send down the knap- 
sacks first. I then tied these together by the straps 
with my silk handkerchiefs, and hung them off as far 
to the left as I could reach without losing my balance, 
looping the handkerchiefs over a point of rock. Cotter 
then slid down the rope, and, with considerable diffi- 
culty, we whipped the noose off its resting-place above, 
and cut oflf our connection with the upper world. 

" ' We're in for it now, King,' remarked my com- 
rade, as he looked aloft, and then down; but our blood 




THEODORE D. JUDAH. 



Page 223 





U1 











THK HIGH SIERRA, CAI IFORNIA, CROSSED BY THE CENTRAL 
PACIFIC RAILWAY. 

Page 223 




IHE HIGH SIERRAS SURVEYED BY THEODORE JUDAH. 



Page 223 



KING AND COTTER 213 

was up, and danger added only an exhilarating thrill 
to the nerves. 

" The shelf was hardly more than two feet wide, 
and the granite so smooth that we could find no place to 
fasten the lasso for the next descent; so I determined 
to try the climb with only as little aid as possible. Ty- 
ing it around my breast again, I ga\e the other end 
into Cotter's hands, and he, bracing his back against 
the cliff, found for himself as firm a foothold as he 
could, and promised to give me all the help in his 
power. I made up my mind to bear no weight unless 
it was absolutely necessary; and for the first ten feet 
I found cracks and protuberances enough to support 
me, making every square inch of surface do friction 
duty, and hugging myself against the rocks as tightly 
as I could. When within about eight feet of the next 
shelf, I twisted myself round upon the face, hanging 
by two rough blocks of protruding feldspar, and look- 
ing vainly for some further hand-hold; but the rock, 
besides being perfectly smooth, overhung slightly, and 
my legs dangled in the air. I saw that the next cleft 
was over three feet broad, and I thought possibly I 
might, by a quick slide, reach it in safety without en- 
dangering Cotter. I shouted to him to be very careful 
and let go in case I fell, loosened my hold upon the rope 
and slid quickly down. My shoulder struck against the 
rock and threw me out of balance; for an instant I 
reeled over upon the verge, in danger of falling, but, 
in the excitement, I thrust out my hand and seized a 
small Alpine gooseberry-bush, the first piece of vege- 
tation we had seen. Its roots were so firmly fixed 



214 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

in the crevice that it held my weight and saved 
rae. 

" I could no longer see Cotter, but I talked to him, 
and heard the two knapsacks come bumping along till 
they slid over the eaves above me, and swung down to 
my station, when I seized the lasso's end and braced 
myself as well as possible, intending, if he slipped, to 
haul in slack and hel}) him as best I might. As he came 
slowly down from crack to crack, I heard his hobnailed 
shoes grating on the granite; presently they appeared 
dangling from the eaves above my head. I had gath- 
ered in the rope until it was taut, and then hurriedly 
told him to drop. He hesitated a moment, and let go. 
Before he struck the rock I had him by the shoulder, 
and whirled him down upon his side, thus preventing 
his rolling overboard, which friendly action he took 
quite coolly. 

" The third descent was not a difficult one, nor the 
fourth; but when we had climbed down about two 
hundred and fifty feet, the rocks were so glacially pol- 
ished and water- worn that it seemed impossible to get 
any farther. To our right was a crack penetrating 
the rock, perhaps a foot deep, widening at the surface 
to three or four inches, which proved to be the only 
possible ladder. As the chances seemed rather des- 
perate, we concluded to tie ourselves together, in order 
to share a common fate; and with a slack of thirty feet 
between us, and our knapsacks upon our backs, we 
climbed into the crevice, and began descending with 
our faces to the cliff. This had to be done with un- 
usual caution, for the foothold was about as good as 



KING AND COTTER 215 

none, and our fingers slipped annoyingly on the smooth 
stone; besides, the knapsacks and instruments kept a 
steady backward pull, tending to overbalance us. But 
we took pains to descend one at a time, and rest where- 
ever the niches gave our feet a safe support. In this 
way we got down about eighty feet of smooth, nearly 
vertical wall, reaching the top of a rude granite stairway, 
which led to the snow; and here we sat down to rest, 
and found to our astonishment that we had been 
three hours from the summit. 

" After breathing a half minute we continued down, 
jumping from rock to rock, and having, by practice, 
become very expert in balancing ourselves, sprang 
on, never resting long enough to lose the aplomb; 
and in this manner made a quick descent over rugged 
debris to the crest of a snow-field, which, for seven or 
eight hundred feet more, swept down in a smooth, even 
slope, of very high angle, to the borders of a frozen lake. 

" Without untying the lasso which bound us to- 
gether, we sprang upon the snow with a shout, and 
glissaded down splendidly, turning now and then a 
somersault, and shooting out like cannon-balls almost 
to the middle of the frozen lake; I upon my back, and 
Cotter feet first, in a swimming position. The ice 
cracked in all directions. It was only a thin, trans- 
parent film, through which we could see deep into the 
lake. Untying ourselves, we hurried ashore in different 
directions, lest our combined weight should be too 
great a strain upon any point." 

There was plenty more of excitement before they 
reached the summit. When they did so. King says: 



2i6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" I rang my hammer upon the topmost rock; we 
grasped hands, and I reverently named the grand peak 
Mount Tyndall." 

Now came the descent. At one place " the rock 
was so steep that we descended in a sitting posture, 
clinging with our hands and heels. I heard Cotter say, 
' I think I must take off these moccasins and try it bare- 
footed, for I don't believe I can make it.' These words 
were instantly followed by a startled cry, and I looked 
round to see him slide quickly toward me, strugghng 
and clutching at the smooth granite. As he slid by, 
I made a grab for him with my right hand, catching 
him by the shirt, and, throwing myself as far in the 
other direction as I could, seized with my left hand a 
little pine tuft, which held us. I asked Cotter to edge 
along a little to the left, where he could get a brace 
with his feet and relieve me of his weight, which he 
cautiously did. I then threw a couple of turns with the 
lasso round the roots of the pine bush, and we were 
safe, though hardly more than twenty feet from the 
brink. The pressure of curiosity to get a look over 
that edge was so strong within me that I lengthened 
out sufficient lasso to reach the end, and slid slowly 
to the edge, where, leaning over, I looked down, getting 
a full view of the wall for miles. Directly beneath, a 
sheer cliff of three or four hundred feet stretched down 
to a pile of debris which rose to unequal heights along 
its face, reaching the very crest not more than a hundred 
feet south of us." 

There was still excitement ahead. They came to a 
place where King's River dashed, " a broad, white 



KING AND COTTER 217 

torrent, fretting its way along the bottom of an im- 
passable gorge. ... To the south of us, a little way 
up stream, the river flowed out from a broad, oval lake, 
three-quarters of a mile in length, which occupied the 
bottom of the granite basin. Unable to cross the tor- 
rent, we must either swim the lake or climb around its 
head. , . . 

" Around the head of the lake were crags and prec- 
ipices in singularly forbidding arrangement. As we 
turned thither we saw no possible way of overcoming 
them. At its head the lake lay in an angle of the vertical 
wall, sharp and straight like the corner of a room; 
about three hundred feet in height, and for two hun- 
dred and fifty feet of this a pyramidal pile of blue ice 
rose from the lake, rested against the corner, and 
reached within forty feet of the top. Looking into the 
deep blue water of the lake, I concluded that in our 
exhausted state it w^as madness to attempt to swim it. 
The only alternative was to scale that slender pyramid 
of ice and find some way to climb the forty feet of 
smooth wall above it. . . . 

" We found the ice-angle difficultly steep "... 
but finally reached its top. There " we found a narrow, 
level platform, upon which we stood together, resting 
our backs in the granite corner, and looked down the 
awful pathway of King's Canyon, until the rest nerved 
us up enough to turn our eyes upward at the forty feet 
of smooth granite which lay between us and safety. 
Here and there were small projections from the 
surface, little, protruding knobs of feldspar, and 
crevices riven into its face for a few inches. 



2i8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" As we tied ourselves together, I told Cotter to hold 
himself in readiness to jump down into one of these 
in case I fell, and started to climb up the wall, succeed- 
ing quite well for about twenty feet. About two feet 
above my hands was a crack, which, if my arms had 
been long enough to reach, would probably have led 
me to the very top; but I judged it beyond my powers, 
and, with great care, descended to the side of Cotter, 
who believed that his superior length of arm would 
enable him to make the reach. 

" I planted myself against the rock, and he started 
cautiously up the wall. Looking down the glare front 
of ice, it was not pleasant to consider at what velocity 
a slip would send me to the bottom, or at what angle, 
and to what probable depth, I should be projected into 
the ice-water. Indeed, the idea of such a sudden bath 
was so annoying that I lifted my eyes towards my com- 
panion. He reached my farthest point without great 
difficulty, and made a bold spring for the crack, reaching 
it without an inch to spare, and holding on wholly by 
his fingers. He thus worked himself slowly along the 
crack toward the top, at last getting his arms over the 
brink, and gradually drawing his body up and out of 
sight. It was the most splendid piece of slow gymnas- 
tics I ever witnessed. For a moment he said nothing; 
but when I asked if he was all right, cheerfully re- 
peated ' All right.' 

" It was only a moment's work to send up the two 
knapsacks and barometer, and receive again my end 
of the lasso. As I tied it round my breast, Cotter said 
to me, in an easy, confident tone, ' Don't be afraid 



KING AND COTTER 219 

to bear your weight.' I made up my mind, however, 
to make that cHmb without his aid, and husbanded my 
strength as I climbed from crack to crack. I got up 
without difficulty to my former point, rested there a mo- 
ment, hanging solely by my hands, gathered every 
pound of strength and atom of will for the reach, then 
jerked myself upward with a swing, just getting the tips 
of my fingers into the crack. In an instant I had 
grasped it with my right hand also. I felt the sinews 
of my fingers relax a little, but the picture of the slope 
of ice and the blue lake affected me so strongly that I 
redoubled my grip, and climbed slowly along the crack 
until I reached the angle and got one arm over the edge 
as Cotter had done. As I rested my body upon the 
edge and looked up at Cotter, I saw that, instead of a 
level top, he was sitting upon a smooth, roof-like slope, 
where the least pull would have dragged him over the 
brink. He had no brace for his feet, nor hold for his 
hands, but had seated himself calmly, with the rope tied 
around his breast, knowing that my only safety lay 
in being able to make the climb entirely unaided; 
certain that the least waver in his tone would have dis- 
heartened me, and perhaps made it impossible. The 
shock I received on seeing this affected me for a mo- 
ment, but not enough to throw me off my guard, and I 
climbed quickly over the edge. When we had walked 
back out of danger we sat down upon the granite for 
a rest. 

" In all my experience of mountaineering I have never 
known an act of such real, profound courage as this 
of Cotter's, It is one thing, in a moment of excitement, 



220 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

to make a gallant leap, or hold one's nerves in the iron 
grasp of will, but to coolly seat one's self in the door 
of death, and silently listen for the fatal summons, 
and this all for a friend, — for he might easily have 
cast loose the lasso and saved himself, — requires as 
sublime a type of courage as I know." 

It was in this fashion and by such men that the 
exploring of the mountains of California was accom- 
plished, and to read Clarence King's book is to bathe 
one's self, not only in the largeness of the wide land- 
scapes of California's out-of-doors, but also in the large- 
ness of heart of extraordinary men. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

THE ENGINEERING HERO OF THE SIERRAS, THEO- 
DORE D. JUDAH 

IN a gigantic enterprise there is often scope for the 
widest exercise of several varieties of genius. As 
the next chapter will show, the building of the Central 
Pacific Railroad developed a commanding genius of 
finance, — ^ Huntington; a genius of equal calibre as a 
constructor, — Crocker; another genius as a politician 
to remove obstacles, — Stanford; and still another, as 
a watch- dog of its own treasury, — Hopkins. Each 
man stands out conspicuous; and Huntington, Stan- 
ford and Crocker especially are more than local char- 
acters. They loom large as celebrities, and their names 
are already uTitten boldly and broadly in the nation's 
autograph album of great men. 

But another name, though less known, is equally 
entitled to this honor, in connection with the work of 
organizing the Central Pacific Railroad. The work of 
this man was earlier, and in many respects more exact- 
ing, more arduous, and required greater knowledge 
and greater skill in handling men. Not only that; 
it must also be recognized that his was the far-seeing 
vision, the prophetic soul that fired into life the com- 
mercial instincts of the other four geniuses who bore 
the burden of actually achieving what he had the 



222 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

daring to conceive, the ability to plan, and the wisdom 
to urge. This man, who for all time should stand as 
a moral hero to young Californians, was Theodore D. 
Judah. He was young when he died, for the toll of his 
years was but thirty-seven. Thirty-seven, and yet he 
had accomplished so much! Born in Bridgeport, 
Connecticut, he was induced to come to California in 
1853 to superintend the selection of a route and con- 
struction of a railroad from Sacramento to the northern 
mines. Sacramento, as the chief city at the head of 
navigation, was to be the starting-point, and the rail- 
way was to cross the Sacramento valley, strike the 
foot-hills of the Sierra Nevadas, and then proceed north 
to the mines. In the face of the great cost of labor — 
who was going to work making railroad grades for a 
few dollars a day when he might work at the mines 
and perhaps become a millionaire ? — and the equally 
great cost of materials, all of which had to be trans- 
ported from the East either around Cape Horn, or 
across the Isthmus, the first twenty-three miles was 
constructed to Folsom, and, with much rejoicing, on 
February 22, 1856, the opening ceremonies were 
held. But it stopped there! By 1856 the mines were 
less profitable than they had been in 1848, 1849 ^.nd 
1850, and the new railroad was not doing the business 
its promoters anticipated. 

In the meantime Mr. Judah was studying the field. 
In his native Connecticut he had never seen such moun- 
tains as these California Sierras. How they shouldered 
their way up to the sky! How they dominated the 
valley! How proudly their snow-crested summits 



THEODORE D. JUDAH 223 

fellowshiped with the sun! What a barrier they were 
between the here and the — what was beyond. By 
and by, their very presence became a challenge to 
Judah, and he determined to solve their mysteries, 
and to know what was beyond them; then his engi- 
neering pride was aroused, and he determined to find 
a way to scale them with a railroad. 

One day he secured a holiday and took a stage ride 
over to Nevada. He was such an indefatigable worker 
that his trip was a surprise to people. They wondered 
at Judah — of all men — taking a rest. But there was 
a great purpose in this seeming holiday. Several times 
Judah came near being left. He would leave the stage 
and take " short cuts," or would wander from the road 
to get outlooks from higher points. It was clear to 
an observer that he was a much interested man. On 
his return, the results of his trip became apparent in 
that new interests had been awakened in his soul. 
He began to talk of a rail way across the Sierras. Then — 
with his essentially practical mind — he began to work 
to find the route for it. He was only about thirty 
years old, but it was not long before he saw clearly 
that a railway could be built, and as soon as that was 
determined he threw himself, heart and soul, into the 
work of its accomplishment. Week after week, month 
after month, year after year, he tramped up and down 
canyons, slid down or wearily climbed up steep slopes, 
visited every possible pass, stood on every available 
summit, suffered heat and cold, rain, sleet, snow and 
storm, until he knew the Sierras, by heart. 

In 1859 — -September 20 — a railroad convention 



224 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

was held in San Francisco, of which John Bidwell 
was chairman, with delegates from California, Oregon, 
Washington and Arizona, for the purpose of taking 
such steps as should ensure the building of a trans- 
continental railway. Judah was present, and it is 
universally conceded that he was the best posted and 
most efficient delegate. Called upon for information, 
he freely poured forth his stored- up knowledge. An 
older man might have withheld much, for fear that 
others might forestall him and reap the advantage of 
his labor. Rut Judah never seemed to have had any 
fear of anything of this kind. He was too large-hearted 
to put a national scheme upon the basis of a proposition 
for personal profit. He was unanimously selected, 
therefore, to go to Washington as the representative 
of this convention, see the President of the United 
States, the heads of the various departments, the leaders 
of Congress and all others he might deem desirable, 
to the end that, by his influence, legislation would be 
set in motion for the furtherance of the transcontinental 
railway. 

With fidelity, knowledge and zeal he accomplished 
his part of the Washington mission, and I would that 
every reader of this sketch could read Judah's report 
of his labors. He failed in his mission, owing to the 
sectional jealousies between North and South, raging at 
their height, but his report is a model of clear, dis- 
passionate statement of facts, without prejudice or dis- 
couragement, and reaffirming his faith in the feasibility 
and practicability of the project and its ultimate con- 
summation. And then — lesson for the grafters of 



THEODORE D. JUDAH 225 

to-day — he enclosed a bill of expenses for forty dollars! 
His actual expenditures for stage fare, hotel bills, 
carriage hire, etc., had amounted to twenty-five hundred 
dollars, but that he would pay himself. The bill was 
for necessary printing, which was all he expected the 
convention officials to pay. 

During these years of hard and unremunerative 
work Judah attracted the attention and engaged the 
interest of the Sacramento men who afterWEtrds became 
the " Big Four " of the Central Pacific Railroad. If 
this young engineer from Bridgeport was so sure of the 
feasibility of building a railroad, why were they not 
interested? Leland Stanford was a dealer in groceries 
and pro\'isions, Crocker a dry-goods merchant, and 
Huntington and Hopkins sold hardware. None of 
them was rich, but they were "big" men, though 
neither they nor any one else knew it at the time. 

The building of a great railroad is a tremendous 
project; and its financing a great problem. When 
one considers the way millions are spent — loca- 
ting the route, surveying, grading, blasting, sho\'el- 
ing, filling, tunneling, bridging, cutting, the cost of the 
rails, transporting them from the mills to the road-bed, 
laying them, keeping them in order, the rolling stock, 
engines, passenger and freight cars, stations, depots, 
freight- houses, switches, side-tracks, offices, etc., • — 
the mind of the ordinary man is bewildered. To 
others, however, these matters are simple. They grasp 
the problems, see the needs, the compensations for the 
expenditures, and then, if they can but convince others 
that they see clearly, their success is assured. 



226 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Judah had seen these things very early, and he soon 
made the " Big Four " see them. They went into 
politics. Stanford was nominated for governor of 
California on the Republican ticket, and ten days later, 
June 28, 1861, the Central Pacific Railroad Company 
of California was organized, with Stanford as presi- 
dent, Huntington vice-president, Judah engineer, 
Hopkins treasurer, and James Bailey, a Sacramento 
jeweler, secretary. The capital stock was named as 
eight million five hundred thousand dollars, divided 
into eighty-five thousand shares of one hundred dollars 
each. The " Big Four " and Judah each subscribed 
for one hundred and fifty shares, and paid into the 
treasury ten dollars per share as a working fund. Judah 
was at once sent back to the mountains to complete 
his surveys and make a final determination of routes. 

What a history- making epoch! What an honored 
position and high responsibility for a young man! 
How much depended upon his wisdom and judgment, 
his care and thoroughness! 

Judah's report of 1861 (October i) should be re- 
garded a^ one of the Classics of California Historic 
Literature. It ought to be read by every intelligent 
man and woman, who to-day is enjoying the results 
of his thorough and careful work. 

Eleven days after the report was submitted, Judah 
was on the steamer, going to Washington, by way of 
Panama, as the Railroad Company's representative 
to Washington. A man who was to be of great service 
to the cause was on the steamer with him, and Judah 
at once set to work, with the same zeal that had won 




Q u 



THEODORE D. JUDAH 227 

him the passes of the Sierras, to win his adherence and 
helpfulness. This was Representative A. A. Sargent, 
who had just been elected and was on his way to take 
his seat in the House. Before he reached Washington, 
Judah had pumped him full of knowledge in regard 
to routes, costs per mile, tunnels, probable amount of 
tonnage freight, of passengers and everything else a 
Congressman ought to know, so that when the bill 
finally 'came before the House, he was able thoroughly 
and properly to present it. 

In New York he met United States Senator James 
A. McDougall, at whose request he prepared a bill 
for presentation to the Senate. 

Then he himself entered into the campaign of edu- 
cation in Washington. In this he was materially helped 
by both the gentlemen above named, and when the 
bill came up for action, they did valiant service in both 
the House and the Senate, and on July t, 1862, they 
had the pleasure of knowing that it had become a law. 

As soon as the bill was passed, Judah prepared 
and filed in the office of the Secretary of the Interior a 
map and designation of the route of the Central Pacific 
Railroad through California; whereupon, as provided 
by the act, lands to the distance of fifteen miles on each 
side of the route were withdrawn from private enter- 
prise, preemption or sale. He then proceeded to New 
York and began making provisional contracts for 
iron and equipments for the first fifty miles of the road. 
On July 21, having successfully accomplished the 
objects of his mission, he took the steamer from New 
York, carrying with him a testimonial from a large 



228 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

number of senators and representatives in Congress, 
thanking him for his assistance in aiding the passage 
of the bill, assuring him that his examinations and 
surveys had settled the question of the practicability of 
the route and enabled many of them to vote confidently 
on the great measure, and bearing witness to the value 
and effectiveness of his indefatigable exertions and 
intelligent explanations. He had indeed succeeded 
admirably; and, so far as seen, his success was due 
almost entirely to himself and achieved without soiling 
his hands or leaving a stain upon his name. 

Immediately upon his return to California, he began 
to show to the people the great advantages the govern- 
ment had conceded and the wisdom of aiding the work 
in every possible way. At the same time he bent his 
marvellous energies to the proper launching of the 
engineering end of the enterprise. The road to Folsom 
was abandoned, and he conclusively showed the reason 
why, so that even those who protested against it were 
left without argument. He also called especial atten- 
tion to every detail of the requirements of Congress, 
with a conscientious anxiety to meet every promise, 
and to keep all pledges made to the State of Nevada. 
Not only this, but he had experts at w^ork examining 
the minerals and rocks along the route, and these 
he exhibited with their reports. 

In October, 1863, Judah again started for Washing- 
ton, in order to be present at the sessions of Congress 
when new and additional railroad legislation was 
proposed. On the way he was stricken with fever, 
and died in New York on November 2, 1863, Hittell 



THEODORE D. JUDAH 229 

says: " In him perished a genius — one of the greatest 
in iiis important Hne — without whom the way over 
the Sierra would not have been found perhaps for many 
years. Like many other men of genius, his reward 
consisted chiefly in his own activity and the conscious- 
ness and satisfaction of doing noble work thoroughly 
and well. He made for others, or enabled them to 
make, uncounted wealth and to occupy places of 
first-class prominence in the world; but, for himself, 
he made in the way of money comparatively nothing; 
and in name and recollection, as new and inferior men 
took his place and easily continued in the path he had 
found and so clearly pointed out, he was in a short 
time substantially forgotten. While the railroad in 
its completed state, and its offspring and imitations, 
which now span the continent, ha\e changed the face 
of the globe, and engrossed to a greater or less extent 
the attention of courts and cabinets in almost every 
quarter of the earth, it is only in old records and reports 
that the name of Judah, the bright spirit that called 
them into being, is to be found. But whether remem- 
bered and recognized or not — and it is only to posterity 
and not to him that it can make any difference — his 
admirable work is his monument, and it must and will 
forever remain so." 

Can anything be added to these generous words? 
The fact that in the few short years since 1863 the 
name of Judah is almost forgotten, and his work is 
known to but few, is proof of the need of the proper 
instruction of our youth in the lives and work of such 
heroes of peace as he. To be a civil engineer, and 



230 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

personally conduct the sur\'eys; a practical builder 
of railways, so that he could intelligently estimate 
the cost of a new road; a superintendent of operation, 
so that he could equip and organize a force to run the 
railroad; a business man, so that he could let con- 
tracts; a promoter, so that he could — as Hittell says, 
" without soiling his hands or leaving a stain upon his 
name " — push a bill for such a gigantic undertaking 
and involving such \'ast millions, such princely gifts 
of the public domain, and affecting so many millions 
of people, through the halls of Congress; a financier, so 
that he could induce capital to help forward the plans; 
a conciliator, so that he was able, more than any other 
man the Central Pacific Railroad Company e^^er had, 
to calm the jealousies, soothe the opposition and con- 
vert the obstructionists who were determined to put 
every possible obstacle in the way of the project, — 
to be all these things and more, was to be abundantly 
blessed of God. And then, to use all these divinely 
bestowed powers — not to make wealth for himself, 
not to snatch at the paltry honors of the hour, but to 
devote them earnestly, consistently, sincerely and 
constantly, up to the hour of his death, for the benefit 
of his fellows, — this was to have lived the life of a 
hero and to have fully earned the hero's crown. 



CHAPTER XXIV 

THE BUILDING HEROES OF THE CENTRAL PACIFIC, 
HUNTINGTON, STANFORD, CROCKER AND HOPKINS 

T X 7ITHOUT railroads, what would California be 
" ^ to-day, as far as material prosperity is concerned ? 
When we think of the immense activity of all the differ- 
ent railways that now operate in California, the millions 
of tons of freight, both for the State and " in transit," 
and the hundreds of thousands of passengers carried 
each year, the mind is incapable of conceiving the 
chaos that would arise were the railroads to vanish at 
a word. 

And yet it is not long — comparatively speaking ■ — 
since there was not a mile of railway in California. 
Only forty years ago (May lo, 1869) the last spikes 
were driven that wedded the Union Pacific and Central 
Pacific Railways in the Salt Lake Desert near Prom- 
ontory, and that gave to the Pacific Coast its first 
transcontinental railway. 

" In this day of perfected transportation, with the 
civilized earth conquered and bound by innumerable 
cords of steel and wire, where the base of supplies 
is not so very far from the place of consumption, few 
can realize the problem before those intrepid men 
who, with little money and large hostility behind them," 
Started to build from the Pacific Coast back to the 



232 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

East. They had no base of supplies near at hand. Every 
pound of raib-oad steel and general supplies had to 
come nineteen thousand miles by water, around Cape 
Horn, from New York, and when, later, the Union 
Pacific Railway was built over Nebraska and Wyo- 
ming into Utah, they had to haul " their strenuously 
obtained subsistence and material over a thousand 
miles of poorly equipped road. They fought moun- 
tains of snow as they had never before been fought. 
They forced their weak, wheezy little engines up tre- 
mendous grades with green wood that must sometimes 
be coaxed with sage-brush gathered by the firemen 
running alongside of their creeping or stalled iron 
horses. There were no steel rails. Engineers worked 
unhelped by the example of perfected railroad building 
of later times. No tracks or charts of the man-killing 
desert! No modern helps, no ready, ever-eager capital 
seeking their enterprise! Only scepticism, hatred from 
their enemies, and ' You can't do it!' flung at them 
from friend and foe." 

So writes Mrs. Sarah Pratt Carr, whose father was 
Charles Crocker's principal reliance in the field, and 
who, herself, saw the daily fight against Nature and 
Time and Space. Yet what she here describes was the 
difficulty of the work years and years after the enter- 
prise had begun, and had received the official endorse- 
ment and financial help of the United States govern- 
ment. What of the time before this aid was secured? 
The whole story is one of bravery, daring, heroism, 
persistence and pluck that, in spite of whatever 
fault may be found with the railroad for some of 



THE BUILDING HEROES 233 

its acts, should never be forgotten by the youth of the 
State. 

And here, before I proceed further, let me make 
clear that while I am personally opposed to the system 
of land and bond grants that made the building of the 
transcontinental railway possible (as will be revealed 
in a later chapter), I do not condemn those who, at 
this early date, held a different opinion. Nor does this 
mental attitude render me indifferent to the exhibition 
of heroism the building of the railway manifested, as 
the remainder of this chapter will prove. 

As far back as 1836 John Plumbe, a Welshman by 
birth, an American by education and feeling, a civil 
engineer by profession, began to agitate, at Dubuque, 
Iowa, a project for a railroad from the Great Lakes 
across the Territory of Oregon to the Pacific Ocean. 
Other far-seeing men — some of our wiser statesmen — 
early recognized the possibilities, and one, Lewis 
Gaylord Clarke, in the Knickerbocker Magazine, 
prophesied its ultimate fulfilment. But neither the 
government, nor the country, at that early day, was 
prepared to undertake so gigantic a task, and even 
after the United States had acquired California, in 
1846, Asa Whitney's project to aid the construction 
of a Pacific Railway by a grant of alternate sections 
of land, for a width of thirty miles on each side, found 
few earnest advocates, though it must be confessed it 
attracted almost universal attention. 

When gold was discovered, things changed somewhat. 
The sea voyage, via Cape Horn, was too long and toodan- 
gerous. Even when the trip was broken at the Isthmus, 



234 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and a railway built there to speed the traveler, the time 
consumed was enormous; while the overland stage 
was equally objectionable, besides being tedious, expen- 
sive, and dangerous. Hence Congress, in March, 1853, 
made a first appropriation of one hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars to defray the expenses of searching 
for a practicable route. The War Department under- 
took the fitting out and equipment of six surveying 
parties, and, to Calif ornians, there are few papers issued 
by the Government that are so interesting as the thir- 
teen large volumes of Railroad Survey Reports, pub- 
lished between the years 1855-1860, when Jefferson 
Davis was Secretary of War, giving the results of these 
various explorations. 

The subject was agitated constantly by the Cali- 
fornia legislatures, one after another, that of 1853 
making quite an elaborate report and urging its im- 
mediate consideration upon the Federal go\-ernment. 
It called attention to the fact that " the distance from 
San Francisco to Washington, by way of Cape Horn, 
was nineteen thousand miles, or more than the entire 
circumference of the globe in latitude thirty-eight de- 
grees, the parallel of San Francisco, and that the 
distance by way of Panama or Nicaragua was as 
long as a direct line from Washington to Pekin. It 
urged the necessity of the road, not only in a 
business and social, but also from a military point of 
view." 

As the State most interested, California had the right 
to urge her claims. Later on she showed that her 
gold had contributed a wonderful stimulus to railroad 



THE BUILDING HEROES 235 

building in all the Eastern States, where the number of 
miles in operation increased from eight thousand five 
hundred and eighty-eight, in the year 1850, to thirty 
thousand five hundred and ninety-eight in i860. She 
showed how she was discriminated against by the lack 
of a railroad, in the fact that the money it would cost 
a family to reach her borders would settle them on a 
good farm in what was then called " the West." The 
transmission of a single letter by mail for a long time 
cost forty cents. But not until 1861 was anything 
practical in the way of actual preparation for real 
building accomplished, and that was done in Cali- 
fornia, as related in the preceding chapter. Stanford, 
Huntington, Crocker, Hopkins, Judah and a few others 
organized the Central Pacific Railroad Company, and 
in the most practical way proceeded to get the railway 
there had been so much talk about. 

Not one of these men had much money, — all told 
they were not worth half a million dollars, — and 
none of them was supposed to have much influence. 
Stanford, however, had just come into the lime- 
light, and revealed unsuspected power, by having 
gained the Republican nomination for governor. This 
latter fact helped considerably, but even that did not 
stop the torrent of abuse and ridicule that was poured 
out upon them for their audacity, their daring, their 
impudence, etc. But Judah's calm and serene con- 
fidence in his plans staggered the objectors, and Stan- 
ford's forceful conduct of public affairs after his elec- 
tion, in 1 86 1, soon began to demonstrate that these 
men knew what they were doing. They had power, 



236 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and regardless of all opposition they went forward to the 
consummation of their plans. 

Unfortunately — in one sense — these men were all 
Sacramentans, and San Francisco felt slighted. INIrs. 
Carr, in her Iron Way, makes Governor Stanford 
give expression to the following: "Poor San Fran- 
cisco! She sits on her shifting hills, snubbing Cali- 
fornia, tyrannizing Nevada, scorning the world. She 
thinks she's Earth's only golden daughter, that she 
has no need of the iron thread we ' shopkeepers ' are 
stringing across the Sierras. But our thread of iron 
shall become her chain of steel. The ' shopkeepers ' 
shall be the arbiters of her fate. Poor, short-sighted 
city! She shall see her trade divided, her r'wsih pros- 
perous. Where she should have been queen, she shall 
be vassal. Her children might be millions, — they will 
be only thousands. To-day she fights us, and throws 
away the chance of becoming America's greatest city." 

There is no denying that for a while the governor's 
remarks about San Francisco's attitude were justified, 
and it was long before the foolish opposition ceased. 
In time, howe\'er, wiser counsels prevailed, and San 
Francisco did her share nobly to help on the great 
work, which was to make her the gateway to the 
Orient. And yet perhaps the very fact that the bankers 
and capitalists of San Francisco were sceptical as to 
the ability of the " Big Four " to carry on their project 
and refused them financial help, led them to seek the 
specific aid of the government by subsidies of bonds. 
The land grants were all right as far as they went, but 
no one wanted to buy land that as yet was unknown and 



THE BUILDING HEROES 237 

unreached, and immediate help was required. Here 
the genius of Huntington came into play. It was no 
doubt owing to his financial ability that bonds were 
suggested. The government was prevailed upon to 
give, for every mile of road completed, sixteen one 
thousand dollar bonds, bearing six per cent, interest, 
and falling due in thirty years. 

Then Huntington in the East, and Stanford in Cali- 
fornia, bent their energies to raising the money neces- 
sary to meet the weekly pay-roll of graders, scrapers, 
drivers, engineers, track-layers, bridge-builders, tun- 
nellers, carpenters, blacksmiths, and the hundreds who 
were doing the actual work of reaching and scaling the 
Sierras. Acts were passed in the State legislature em- 
powering the various counties — Placer, San Francisco, 
Sacramento, San Joaquin — to issue bonds, when voted 
upon by the citizens, for the purpose of aiding the road. 
Then the State was to help with a contribution of half 
a million dollars. But enemies were at work. An at- 
tempt was made to repeal this latter act, and San 
Francisco placed obstacles in the way of the payment 
of its quota, which the courts did not remove until 1856. 

Never was there a great enterprise that had more 
opposition than did the Central Pacific Railroad. 
There is, perhaps, a doubt as to whether even the 
power of the Big Four could have coped vaih the ob- 
stacles, had it not been for Judah's wondrous capacity 
and serene confidence. He rendered it possible for 
Huntington to go to Congress with his later requests 
and secure what was absolutely essential for the life 
of the undertaking. And while, in the struggles that 



238 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

came after Judah's death, it must freely be confessed, 
the Big Four all developed into wonderful men, it is a 
question whether they would have had the opportunity 
so to develop had it not been that Judah's work car- 
ried them forward in the first arduous hours of the fight. 

Huntington found he could not raise the money fast 
enough for the needs of operation, — as the govern- 
ment had put a time limit upon the completion of the 
road. So another financial move was determined upon. 
A bill was presented in Congress, which finally passed, 
giving to the railroad the power and right to issue 
first mortgage bonds to the extent of its mileage, of the 
same amount and character as those that the govern- 
ment had issued or was to issue. This act doubled the 
bonding power of the road, gave the railway company's 
bonds the first claims, and thus made them more easily 
negotiable, and, at the same time, while in a measure 
lowering materially the security of the government 
bonds, did not prevent their being sold at about the 
same rate as before. 

Immediately a change took place in the finances of 
the company. Money now became as plentiful as 
hitherto it had been scarce, and the work was pushed 
with renewed vigor. The same act also increased the 
land grant from fifteen miles to twenty-five miles, 
alternate sections, on each side of the railway, and ex- 
tended the time for the building of the first fifty miles 
of road, and required only twenty-five miles to be 
built each year thereafter, provided, however, that the 
whole distance to the State boundary be finished in 
another four years. 



THE BUILDING HEROES 239 

The whole of the construction work in the field was 
relegated by Stanford, Huntington and Hopkins to 
Crocker. Indeed, the directors of the railway (of 
which Crocker ^^•as one) let the contract for the building 
of the railway to Charles Crocker and Company (of 
which firm they were the " Company "). 

From the counter and office of a small dry-goods store 
to the superintendency of a great railway building con- 
tract was a change that few men could safely undergo, 
but Charles Crocker made it as if by magic. He disap- 
peared from the one position to reappear fully equipped 
for the other. He seemed to have an eye instantly to 
detect or discover the superintendent of construction, 
foremen and bosses needed. Between himself and Pratt, 
the man he placed in charge of the w^ork in the 
field, there was a perfect understanding. Pratt was an 
Eastern man, who, with his wife and baby daughter, 
came west in time to enter into this work. With his 
whole heart and soul he bent his energies to it, devoting 
himself to Crocker and his interests with a fidelity that 
never swerved, and making the success of the Central 
Pacific his passion and his delight. His daughter, in 
her Iron Way, has done good service in her day and 
generation in picturing some of the scenes she lived 
among as a little girl. For her father, while retaining 
a home in California, was desirous of having his family 
with him, so he established them in a temporary, but 
comfortable home, which, as the work of building the 
railway progressed, was moved on along the right of 
way. 

At one time the " enemy " sent its emissaries into the 



240 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

working camps and persuaded the laborers that the 
" iron " — the rails — was being delayed, and that, if 
they pushed the work on, they would be laid off until 
it arrived. They were thus craftily urged to idle, to 
shirk, to " old soldier," and delay the progress. Men 
were bribed to wreck trains of supplies, for which the 
workers were waiting, and every conceivable obstacle 
that devilish cunning and craft could devise and fiendish 
ingenuity and coiirage execute. Was set in motion to 
harass, delay and dishearten those who had the work 
in hand. The modern-day strike was not then in- 
vented, but men were bribed to desert by wholesale. 
Rumors were diligently spread abroad, at times, of 
new and rich strikes in mining camps at far-away dis- 
tances, and laborers were thus inveigled to desert their 
work. Before they could find out they had been 
swindled, a week or two, or a month had gone by. 
Think of the heart-break of the railroad builders who 
were tied to time by their contract with the govern- 
ment, the State and the various counties. 

It was these tactics, and not because they wished it^ 
that led the Central Pacific officials to the use of Chinese 
labor. As early as 1862, in Governor Stanford's in-' 
augural, he had openly proclaimed against further 
Chinese immigration. Their presence in the mines had 
already demonstrated their undesirability, — accord- 
ing to his opinion, — and he urged the repression of the 
influx of the Asiatic into California, Yet, when white 
labor was found to be so unreliable, and the work was 
pressing, Stanford vv^as soon to learn that where the dfevil 
drives there is little choice. Crocker played a great 



THE BUILDING HEROES 241 

trick upon him in which he was compelled to acquiesce. 
Five hundred Chinamen were secretly marched from 
an incoming ship, loaded on a train and sent to the 
front before either they — the Chinamen — or any one 
else knew their destination, and when once they were 
set to work and their ability and reliability had been 
proved, there was no more talk against Chinamen on 
the part of railroad men who knew. 

Day after day, week after week, month after month, 
Crocker and Pratt went up and down the line like rest- 
less Lucifers, fired with that everlasting urge and push 
that drove the demons of laziness and inertia out of 
thousands of men. What a tribute to the power of soul 
over body that two men could so enliven, encourage, 
compel thousands that they would work to the utmost 
of their physical power, in order to accomplish the will 
of their leaders. 

Slowly but surely, the road crept up the western slope 
of the Sierras. Cape Horn was reached and fmally the 
summit. Then the down grade was begun — past 
Donner Lake, Truckee to Reno — and finally Ne- 
vada was happy in having rail connection with the 
Pacific Coast. Then the race across Nevada began. 

Two companies were to build the railroad from the 
Missouri to the Pacific, one working eastward, — the 
Central Pacific, — the other working westward, — 
the Union Pacific. Each was to be paid in bonds 
according to the miles of road built, and while the 
Union Pacific had the advantage of comparatively 
level country (fully five hundred miles) over a large 
part of its route to start with, the Central Pacific had 



242 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

to surmount the Sierras at the outset. The former 
road began at Omaha, Nebraska. When the North- 
western Railway reached Omaha, in December, 1866, 
the Union Pacilic was in direct railroad connection 
with its base of supplies, while the Central Pacific had 
to have its supplies transported nineteen thousand 
miles around Cape Horn. 

In spite of these terrific obstacles, work was pushed 
with tremendous energy. By midsummer of 1867 the 
Central Pacific was completed to the summit of the 
Sierras; fifteen tunnels, embracing a length of sk 
thousand two hundred and sixty-two feet, were being 
rapidly bored through the almost adamantine granite; 
while ten thousand men and thirteen hundred teams 
were working on the down grade of the eastern 
slope. Chinamen were now used by the thousands, 
and Charles Crocker was their general. They were 
organized into companies, with their officers, and 
drilled to obey the word of command exactly as do 
troops. 

As the road progressed, it began to do business on 
the completed portion. This brought in large sums 
of money from freight and passenger receipts to aid 
the building fund, hence no reasonable expense was now 
spared to push the railway ahead as fast as men and 
money could accomplish it. The rivalry between the 
Union and Central became keener and keener as the 
gap grew smaller, and when, at the end of 1867, the 
Central Pacific reached Reno, there was great rejoicing 
in its councils, for the race would now be far more to 
its advantage than to its rival. The Union was far 




JAMES LICK. 



Page 262 



THE BUILDING HEROES 243 

ahead, but it had four or five hundred miles of the 
Rockies to overcome, while the Central had only the 
comparatively smooth ground of the Nevada plateau 
to cross. 

What an exciting chapter could be wTitten on that 
race across Nevada, — hov^^ the enemies of the Central 
Pacific did not hesitate to resort to deception and fraud 
and even worse to hinder its progress ! But the impetus 
gained was now too great to be stopped. 

Over the desert the army of workers slowly pushed 
their way. The route was bustling with life. Thousands 
of employes built up numerous small towns as they 
advanced, some of which have totally disappeared, 
while others became the nuclei of permanent places, 
such as Wadsworth, Winnemucca, Palisade, Carlin, 
Saw mills were started in the Sierras to supply ties and 
lumber for buildings. Scores of axes echoed in the 
mountain forests, as they bit into the great trees. 
Where there were streams they were used to float the 
logs to the nearest available points. The excitement 
grew as the two gangs neared each other. One day the 
Central Pacific actually laid seven miles of track. 
Its directors were desperately anxious to reach Ogden 
at least, and the Union Pacific directors equally anxious 
to reach Monument Point, — west of the Salt Lake — 
though at one time they had declared it their intention 
to reach the California State line. But ultimately, on 
May 10, 1869, a clear, cloudless, glorious Nevada day, 
the "laurel" tie was placed, amid ringing cheers, the 
connecting rails were laid, the golden spike set, and 
the trans- American telegraph wire was adjusted. 



244 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

The prayer of thanksgiving had been offered. Then, 
amid breathless silence, Governor Stanford, with a 
special silver hammer, gave the gentle ticks that sent 
the news flashing across the continent — the Atlantic- 
Pacific railway is completed; one may now ride in 
comfort from one side to the other of our great country. 
It was a heroic achievement, a grand and glorious 
consummation of a sublime idea, and in its enjoyment 
the true Californian will never forget the silent tribute 
of his thanks and admiration to Judah and the Big 
Four whose pluck and heroism accomplished it. 



CHAPTER XXV 

THE BRILLIANT HERO OF INTELLECT, 
STEPHEN J. FIELD 

THERE are heroes and heroes. All are not of 
the same kind, or in the same class. One is a 
hero of physical courage, another of religious zeal, 
another of bravery in facing political corruption, an- 
other in preventing wrong to the helpless. Yet the 
study of the life of each one is of use to us. We can- 
not look upon the life of any true hero without being 
profited. 

In the case of Stephen J. Field we have the heroism 
of a man who devoted his gigantic intellect, with single- 
ness of purpose, to the arduous task of fitting the laws 
of the United States to an alien civilization incorpo- 
rated into our own, and where social and business con- 
ditions were entirely different from those found in any 
other part of the country. 

The Field family is a noted one, Stephen Johnson 
Field's three brothers all having attained honor and 
fame, — David Dudley, equally great with his younger 
brother as a jurist ; Cyrus West, as the sagacious, ener- 
getic and triumphant conqueror of space and ocean 
by his Atlantic cable; Henry Martyn, as a traveler, 
preacher and editor. 

Stephen reached California December 28, 1849, 



246 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" with hardly any funds, and with no resources except 
untiring energy and capacity for work, great intellec- 
tual ability, natural and cultivated, the well-laid foun- 
dation of legal learning, and the high hopes of opening 
manhood." He went to Marysville, was its first al- 
calde, and one Monday in January, 1851, took his seat 
in the assembly of the State legislature as the member 
from his county. In this assembly he demonstrated 
his high heroic patriotism by devoting the whole of his 
energies to the formulation of most important laws, the 
chief of which were in connection with the mining in- 
terests. Here was no wire-pulling pettifogger seeking 
his own advancement, no " log-roller," looking for 
financial gain in his legislati^•e action, but a hard- 
working, conscientious patriot, giving freely of his 
superlative mental powers that the chaotic condition 
of the mining industry might be changed to an orderly 
and legal method. 

It is hard for us, in this day of calm, settled, peaceful, 
community life, to realize the wild and confused con- 
dition of affairs during the first years after the discovery 
of gold. In the great rush there were a few men of high 
character, education and culture who were capable 
of being leaders. " A larger number were of less edu- 
cation and culture," says Judge Pomeroy, " but still 
were full of energy, and, coming from the United States, 
were inclined to be law-abiding, possessing at least 
some of the American feeling of respect for the law and 
love of justice. A third, and it must be confessed, a 
large class, consisted of the worst characters of the 
older communities, — rogues, knaves, gamblers, and 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 247 

professional criminals, acknowledging no laws, and 
defying all. 

"The law of the country was itself chaotic. The 
civil law, as formulated in Spanish codes, and modified 
by Mexican legislation, was in operation prior to the 
cession of California to the United States. Large 
tracts of land were held as grants under the Mexican 
law, and — when confirmed — gave rights of absolute 
possession to their owners. 

'' The mixed mass of immigrants had brought with 
them their own ideas of law, — ideas as diverse as 
were their facial characteristics, and naturally they 
wished to base their conduct upon the laws with which 
they had hitherto been familiar. The first legislature of 
the State of California had adopted as the fundamental 
law of the State the Common Law of England. But 
this did not meet the peculiar conditions existent 
here. It left the mining interests in as confused 
a condition as if there were no law. And these in- 
terests, it must be remembered, in those early days 
overshadowed all others in their magnitude and im- 
portance. 

" The mineral lands, as a whole, belonged to the 
United States, as a part of the public domain; but dif- 
ferent opinions prevailed with respect to the ownership 
of the minerals themselves while still remaining in the 
soil. Some persons maintained that they belonged to 
the United States, others that they were owned by the 
State; but the conviction was universal that neither 
the national nor the State government should assert 
any right of ownership, and that its assertion would 



248 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

greatly impair the development of the mineral wealth 
of the country." 

Some miners had taken advantage of the " State 
ownership " doctrine, and they asserted their right 
to carry on their mining, not only in the public lands, 
but also in all land. They even asserted this right 
with respect to private lands which were actually 
occupied by their owners, and were used by them for 
other purposes than mining, — for agriculture, for 
grazing, for residence. " This claim was not an empty 
theory; it was carried into actual operation. The 
miners entered upon private lands at will, used and 
occupied for farms, cattle-ranches, vineyards, etc., in 
search for silver and gold, heaving up the soil and doing 
great damage." 

In this condition of the country, the better class of 
miners had taken some important steps. They held 
meetings and passed rules and regulations which, to 
their own practical sense of right and justice, were 
feasible, — rules about priority of claims, extent of 
ground each person might appropriate, how he must 
work to keep it, and the like. These rules, once adopted, 
were enforced with that primitive A-igor and strictness 
with which Bret Harte has made us familiar. Short was 
the shrift and severe the penalty on all violators, yet 
seldom could it be charged that, in the main, injustice 
was done. Naturally the rules slightly differed in the 
different camps, yet there was a general similarity 
in them all. 

When elected to the State legislature, Mr. Field 
set himself to reduce this system to law. His keen and 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 249 

logical mind, and his personal observations among the 
miners had shown him the wise, proper and judicial 
thing to do. Casting aside all precedents, going right 
to the heart of the difficulty in a manly and fearless 
manner, based upon common sense and justice, he — 
in effect • — introduced a bill which, when passed, made 
into laws all the rules and regulations that the miners 
had voluntarily imposed upon themselves. 

When he was elected to the judicial bench, many 
cases came before him for settlement where the old 
codes were relied upon, and when rude, rough, danger- 
ous and desperate men, by force, even to the point of 
murder, were determined to gain their ends, right or 
wrong. As Professor Pomeroy has well said: " On the 
whole, the California judges were confronted by a task 
enormous in its difficulty and importance; wholly 
unprecedented in the legal and judicial history of the 
country; with little aid from the doctrines of juris- 
prudence prevailing in other States; and requiring to 
be grappled with, adjusted, and settled without delay, 
upon a just and solid basis. Their difficulties were 
enhanced by the character and dispositions of a large 
portion of the population. As was inevitable, the ab- 
sence of legal and social restraints had induced great 
numbers of persons to engage in the most extensive 
schemes of fraudulent acquisition, of grasping and 
accumulating property through an open disregard of 
others' rights, of asserting the most unscrupulous and 
unfounded claims, of overriding law, order, equity and 
justice in every possible manner, having the semblance 
of legal sanction. These persons were often influential, 



250 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and could control the newspapers and other organs 
of temporary public opinion. When their projects 
were thwarted by judicial decisions, they attempted 
to coerce the court by public attacks of the most bitter 
nature upon individual judges, attacks such as have 
ne\-er been known, and would never for a moment be 
tolerated in the Eastern States, but which the court was 
powerless either to prevent or punish. The most able 
and upright members of the court were made the 
objects of virulent abuse, the extent and fierceness of 
which we can hardly realize at the present day. It is 
true that, in course of time, the truth gradually asserted 
its power, the public mind appreciated the justice and 
integrity of the decisions, perceived their wisdom, and 
acknowledged their beneficial results." 

Taking the most independent and fearless course, 
Judge Field was perhaps the most often the victim 
of these unprincipled attacks. More than once was he 
threatened, and his life placed in actual jeopardy, 
yet it can truthfully be said, so far as a careful study 
of many of his decisions entitles me to speak wdth 
authority, that ne\'er once was he sw^erved from his 
sense of justice by threats or danger of any kind. When 
subtle bribes (and in many cases gold was almost 
openly used) w^ere placed before him, he adhered to 
his duty. This element of fearlessness will be referred 
to later in reference to another phase of his work. 

During his Assembly career, we ow^e to him another 
important and beneficent law. In the statutes of 
almost every State there have been trivial exemptions of 
personal property of debtors from execution, seizure 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 251 

and sale. He felt that, in the new State, a scheme of 
exemption should be provided that was more generous, 
beHeving that even the strictest justice and the claims of 
creditors would be better subserved thereby. Not only 
should a debtor have his bedding, clothing and house- 
hold effects preserv^ed to him, but the tools and imple- 
ments with which he worked. With these he might be 
able to secure employment and pay his debts; without 
them he was plunged into a morass of despair, which 
not only effectually prevented the payment of his debts, 
but possibly rendered him a burden to the community. 
Accordingly, he introduced a measure, which became 
law, exempting the implements, wagons, and teams 
of a farmer, the tools of a mechanic, the instruments 
of a surveyor, surgeon and dentist, the professional 
library of a lawyer and a physician, the articles used 
by the miner, the laborer, etc. 

As a judge, the same qualities of statesmanship soon 
became apparent. New conditions existed in Cali- 
fornia, and old legal methods could not be made to 
apply. Judge Field at once showed that he had the 
moral courage, the daring, to do what is most unusual 
and rare in a lawyer or a judge. He dared to strike 
out entirely new paths, enunciate fundamental and 
living principles as the basis of his decisions and relegate 
to the lumber heap all the accumulated trash of the 
centuries, which, under the awful name of " prece- 
dent," ties the hands, blinds the eyes, befogs the judg- 
ments of nearly all the men who sit upon our legal 
benches. His gigantic intellect, his ready grasp of 
principles, his persistent determination to get at all 



252 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the facts in the case, his indomitable energy and capacity 
for hard work enabled him, when backed up by his 
upright soul and fearless courage, to do the thing that 
to a lesser man would ha\e been impossible. 

For it cannot be denied that some of the men who 
were elevated to judicial positions in the early days 
of the State were totally unfit — from e\ery moral 
standpoint — to occupy their high and lofty places. 
Some of them were criminals and desperadoes, and 
hafl it not been for their high intellectual attainments 
they could not ha\e been imposed upon any com- 
munity for a single hour. Among such men Justice 
Field stood out preemmently in the isolation of his 
nobleness of character and purity of life. 

These qualities of soul soon began to reveal them- 
selves in some of the important decisions which he 
rendered. In litigation that affected but a few individ- 
uals it is comparatively easy to ignore the ill will of the 
defeated parties to the suit, but where a whole com- 
munity, a county, a State is involved, the temptation 
to temj)orize is much enhanced. It is well known that 
in California the Chinamen had few friends, especially 
in the days prior to, and at the time of the passing of 
the Exclusion x\cts. Judge Pomeroy declares that this 
State prejudice against the Mongolian has led to the 
enactment of both State and municipal legislation that 
violates the constitution and contravenes the treaty 
made between the United States and China. 

On several occasions Judge Field took occasion 
to show that the prejudiced and hostile acts of Cal- 
ifornia asainst the Chinese were neither good law 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 253 

nor good morals, and regardless of the stir his de- 
cisions provoked, calmly went on the e\cn tenor of 
his way. 

In 1874 a case came before him in which it was pro- 
posed to return to China a certain woman who had 
been denied entrance in accordance with the terms 
of the State law of 1872. The woman took out a \mt 
of habeas corpus, contending that she did not come 
under any of the classes that could justifiably be ex- 
cluded. In his decision Judge Field said, among many 
other good things: "I am aware of the very general 
feeling prevailing in this State against the Chinese, and 
in opposition to the extension of any encouragement 
to their immigration hither. It is felt that the dissimi- 
larity m physical characteristics, in language, in man- 
ners, religion and habits, will always pre\cnt any 
possible assimilation of them with our peoi)le. Ad- 
mitting that there is ground for this feeling, it does not 
justify any legislation for their exclusion, which might 
not be adopted against the inhabitants of the most 
favored nations of the Caucasian race and of the Chris- 
tian faith. If their further emigration is to be stopped, 
recourse must be had to the Federal Government, 
where the whole power over this subject lies." 

It was pleaded against the woman that she was 
immoral, but no proof was offered upon the subject, 
and only the commissioner's opinion was taken as 
sufficient justification to exclude her on that ground. 
Judge Field at once riddled that doctrine and defended 
the honor of the woman — even though a Chinese — 
against any but the most positive and legal proof. 



254 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Accordingly the woman won her suit and was duly 
discharged. 

In July, 1870, an ordinance of the city and county 
of San Francisco was passed for the regulation of 
lodging-houses. It was confessedly an attack on the 
Chinese, and in 1873 a large number of them were 
arrested and lined ten dollars each. The j)arties 
fined in most cases preferred to go to jail rather than 
pav the fme. By a law of the State, each day's im- 
prisonment discharges two dollars of the fine. The 
jails were crowded, and it was declared that the refusal 
to pay the fines was ordered by the heads of the Chinese 
Companies in order to make the city " sick " of feeding 
the Chinese in the city prisons. 

The city authorities thereupon enacted a new or- 
dinance, two provisions of which were avowedly against 
the Chinese, — though of course their name was not 
mentioned. These provided, first, that any person duly 
committed to the jail should have the hair of his head 
cut or clipped to the uniform length of one inch from 
the scalp, and second, that no person should remove or 
cause to be removed, from any cemetery or grave- yard 
wuthin the limits of the city and county, the remains of 
any deceased person or persons without the ^^Titten 
permit of the coroner. 

There was a great deal of discussion about this 
ordinance, and much opposition on account of its 
manifest injustice and discrimination against the 
Chinese. That it was " smart " and " clever " no 
one denied. In 1876 the State legislature was drawn 
into the matter and passed an act which, with a re- 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 255 

enactment of the hair-cutting ordinance, ^vas to "do 
the trick." 

A Chinaman, Ah Kow, was arrested under the ordi- 
nance, ordered to pay a fine of ten dollars, which he 
refused, was jailed and there had his queue cut ofif by 
the sheriff. Whereupon he sued the sheriff for ten 
thousand dollars damages. 

The case came before Judge Field. His decision 
is most interesting and instructive reading, and I com- 
mend it to the youth of the State as a model of clean-cut 
justice, vigorous though legal English, and pure mo- 
rality. Here are a few extracts: 

" The second objection to the ordinance in question 
is equally conclusi\e. It is special legislation, on the 
part of the super\isors, against a class of persons who, 
under the Constitution and laws of the United States, 
are entitled to the ecjual protection of the laws. The 
ordinance was intended only for the Chinese in San 
Francisco. This was a\'Owed by the Supervisors on 
its passage, and was so understood by every one. The 
ordinance is kno\\Ti in the community as the ' Queue 
Ordinance,' being so designated from its purpose to 
reach the queues of the Chinese, and it is not enforced 
against any other persons. The reason advanced for 
its adoption, and now urged for its continuance, is 
that only the dread of the loss of his queue will induce a 
Chinaman to pay his fine. That is to say, in order to 
enforce the payment of a fine imposed upon him, it is 
necessary that torture should be super-added to im- 
prisonment. Then, it is said, the Chinaman will not 
accept the alternati\e, A\hich the law allows, of work- 



256 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

ing out his fine by imprisonment, and the State or 
county will be saved the expense of keeping him during 
his imprisonment. Probably the bastinado, or the 
knout, or the thumbscrew, or the rack, would accom- 
plish the same end; and no doubt the Chinaman would 
prefer either of these modes of torture to that which 
entails upon him disgrace among his countrymen and 
carries with it the constant dread of suffering and mis- 
fortune after death. It is not creditable to the hu- 
manity and civilization of our people, much less to 
their Christianity, that an ordinance of this kind was 
possible. 

" The class character of this legislation is none the 
less manifest because of the general terms in which 
it is expressed. The statements of Supervisors in 
debate on the passage of the ordinance, cannot, it is 
true, be resorted to for the purpose of explaining the 
meaning of the terms used; but they can be resorted 
to for the purpose of ascertaining the general object 
of the legislation proposed, and the mischiefs sought 
to be remedied. Besides, we cannot shut our eyes to 
matters of public notoriety and general cognizance. 
When we take our seats on the bench we are not struck 
with blindness, and forbidden to know as judges what 
we see as men ; and where an ordinance, though general 
in its terms, only operates upon a special race, sect, 
or class, it being universally understood that it is to be 
enforced only against that race, sect, or class, we may 
justly conclude that it was the intention of the body 
adopting it that it should only have such operation, 
and treat it accordingly. . . . The complaint in this 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 257 

case shows that the ordinance acts with special severity 
upon Chinese prisoners, inflicting upon them suffering 
altogether disproportionate to what would be endured 
by other prisoners if enforced against them. Upon the 
Chinese prisoners its enforcement operates as * a cruel 
and unusual punishment.' 

" Many illustrations might be given where ordi- 
nances, general in their terms, would operate only upon 
a special class, or upon a class with special severity, 
and thus incur the odium and be subject to the legal 
objection of intended hostile legislation against them. 
We have, for instance, in our community, a large 
number of Jews. They are a highly intellectual race, 
and are generally obedient to the laws of the country. 
But, as is generally known, they have peculiar opinions 
with respect to the use of certain articles of food, which 
they cannot be forced to disregard without extreme 
pain and suffering. They look, for example, upon the 
eating of pork with loathing. It is an offense against 
their religion, and is associated in their minds with 
uncleanness and impurity. Now, if they should, in 
some quarter of the city, overcrowd their dwellings, and 
thus become amenable, like the Chinese, to the act con- 
cerning lodging-houses and sleeping-apartments, an 
ordinance of the Supervisors requiring that all prisoners 
confined in the county jail should be fed on pork, would 
be seen by every one to be leveled at them; and, not- 
withstanding its general terms, would be regarded 
as a special law in its purpose and operation. 

'' During various periods of English history, legis- 
lation, general in its character, has often been enacted 



258 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

with the avowed purpose of imposing special burdens 
and restrictions upon Catholics; but that legislation 
has since been regarded as not less odious and obnoxious 
to animadversion than if the persons at whom it was 
aimed had been particularly designated. 

" But, in our country, hostile and discriminating 
legislation by a State against persons of any class, sect, 
creed, or nation, in whatever form it may be expressed, 
is forbidden by the Fourteenth Amendment to the 
Constitution. That amendment in its first section 
declares who are citizens of the United States, and then 
enacts that no State shall make or enforce any law 
which shall abridge their privileges and immunities. 
It further declares that no State shall deprive any 
person (dropping the distinctive term citizen) of life, 
liberty or property, without due process of law, nor 
deny to any person the equal protection of the laws. 
This inhibition upon the State applies to all the instru- 
mentalities and agencies employed in the administra- 
tion of its government ; to its executive,legislative, and 
judicial departments; and to the subordinate legis- 
lative bodies of counties and cities. And the quality 
of protection thus assured to every one while within 
the United States, from whatever country he may have 
come, or of whatever race or color he may be, implies 
not only that the courts of the country shall be open 
to him on the same terms as to all others, for the se- 
curity of his person or property, the prevention or 
redress of wTongs, and the enforcement of contracts; 
but that no charges or burdens shall be laid upon him 
which are not equally borne by others, and that in 



STEPHEN J. FIELD 259 

the administration of criminal justice he shall suffer for 
his offenses no greater or different punishment." 

Then, speaking of the hostility to the Chinese, he 
says: " Thoughtful persons, looking at the millions 
which crowd the opposite shores of the Pacific, and 
the possibility at no distant day of their pouring over 
in vast hordes among us, giving rise to fierce antago- 
nisms of race, hope that some way may be devised to 
prevent their further immigration. We feel the force 
and importance of these considerations ; but the remedy 
for the apprehended evil is to be sought from the 
general government," 

In concluding his decision he affirmed: " Nothing 
can be accomplished by hostile and spiteful legislation 
on the part of the State, or of its municipal bodies, 
like the ordinance in question — legislation which is 
unworthy of a brave and manly people." 

As soon as this decision was rendered, the press and 
public of the State began a storm of abuse against 
Justice Field that was fierce and virulent. " It seemed 
as though, for the time, reason had fled from the minds 
of the people of the State." But regardless of it all, 
Mr. Field adhered to the principles he had laid down, 
and few lawyers of to-day will be found who will dissent 
from them. That it required moral courage to do this 
no one will doubt, when I assert what was well known 
at the time, viz., that had it not been for that decision 
and the " fierce opposition and hatred it engendered 
among the lowest and most ignorant of the political party 
with which he was connected," he would have re- 
ceived the support of his own State and undoubtedly 



26o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the nomination of the National Democratic Conven- 
tion for president. 

These are but some of the causes with which the 
name of Justice Stephen J. Field is inseparably con- 
nected. His life and work throughout were character- 
ized by the same devotion to principle, the same 
high sense of honor, the same fearless heroism in 
the discharge of his duty, hence it is well that he 
hold a high place on the roll of " the heroes of peace," 
who have added lustre to the fair fame of the State of 
his choice. 



CHAPTER XXVI 

THE SAVING HERO OF PHILANTHROPY, JAMES LICK 

THE term " miser " is one of opprobrium and 
obloquy, which no man of sensitive nature 
could wish to have apphed to himself. 

At the outset let it be distinctly understood that 
James Lick was not a miser of the usurer type. Instead, 
as will be shown later, he was at times so extravagant 
as to lead his neighbors to denounce his reckless ex- 
penditures. He was a strange mixture of penuriousness 
and open-handedness, and being a man of strong 
character, marked personality, unbending will, ap- 
parently caring for no friendships, almost morose and 
sullen in the presence of women, and confining his 
energies to his various business enterprises, there is 
little wonder at the many and conflicting statements 
current in regard to his life and its purposes. 

He was born at Fredericksburg, Lebanon County, 
Pennsylvania, August 25, 1796. As a youth he worked 
with an organ builder named Aldt, in Hanover, Penn- 
sylvania, and in 1819 found employment with Joseph 
Hishey, a prominent piano manufacturer of Baltimore. 
He was working there one day, when a young man came 
in seeking employment. Lick interested himself on 
his behalf, gave him breakfast, and secured him a 



262 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

position, thus forming a friendship which practically 
lasted for life, with Conrad Meyer, afterwards the 
noted piano maker of Philadelphia. 

In 1820 Lick left Hishey's and went to New York 
to start in business on his own account, but as things 
did not shape themselves to his liking, he left the 
United States, and for ten years engaged in piano- 
making at Buenos Ayres. In 1832 he surprised Meyer 
by returning with a forty thousand dollar cargo of 
hides and nutria skins, which he speedily dis- 
posed of at a profit, but, soon growing restless for 
the larger life and freedom of the newer country, he 
returned to South America. Here he wandered about 
somewhat, from Buenos Ayres to Valparaiso, Callao, 
and Lima. Working with his usual industry and 
energy, he accumulated a fortune. He remained 
eleven years in Peru, but the last two years of his stay 
his mind was much taken up with California. He 
purchased and read everything he could find descriptive 
of the land, and became well informed as to its advan- 
tages. The inopportune seizure of California by 
Commodore Jones was an act which called the atten- 
tion of the world, and especially of South America, 
not only to California, but also to the possibility that, 
some day, the United States might seize and firmly 
hold it. And when the news spread that Commodore 
Sloat had placed the United States flag upon the public 
buildings of Monterey — the capital city of California 
— James Lick came to the conclusion that it was there 
to stay, and decided that he would embark for the new 
country. To get away he had to sacrifice his stock, 



JAMES LICK 26, 







which inventoried nearly sixty thousand dollars, for 
thirty thousand dollars. This sum was paid to him in 
doubloons, and to transport it in safety, he bought 
an old safe, embarked with it, and landed in San 
Francisco in the ship Lady Adams in the end of 1847. 
His first purchase in San Francisco was of the large lot 
and an adobe house on the northeast corner of what 
are now Montgomery and Jackson Streets, for which 
he paid five thousand dollars. 

It will be recalled that, in the spring of 1848, San 
Francisco contained a population of barely a thousand 
inhabitants. Upon the discovery of gold came an 
unprecedented influx of population from all parts of 
the globe. The majority, both of the newcomers and 
of the older inhabitants of the town, flocked to the 
mines, while a sagacious and shrewd minority stayed 
behind. Of this latter class was James Lick. Even 
then he foresaw the possible growth of San Francisco, 
and determined to profit by it. In those days the 
waters of the bay reached up as far as the site of the 
Palace Hotel and Montgomery Street, and the southern- 
most street was California Street. Where Market 
Street now is was a high ridge of sand, and all the way 
from California Street to Happy Valley, Montgomery 
Street wound and straggled through irregular and 
various-sized sand dunes. The rude wharves ran up 
to Sansome Street on the east; Telegraph Hill was 
dotted over with tents and shanties; and passengers 
were " dumped " rather than landed, almost as the 
skipper of the vessel willed, anywhere from Clark's 
Point to the Potrero. 



264 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Lick carefully went over the ground, determined 
what seemed to him to be the natural direction for 
the new city's growth, and then quietly expended a 
large part of his capital in the purchase of sand hills, 
chaparral-covered dunes, and so-called city blocks, 
which even the most sanguine scarcely deemed worthy 
of acceptance as a gift. 

In 1852 he bought a fine property near San Jose, 
and erected thereupon the flour mill which made his 
name world-famed. Hitherto his expenditures had 
been so carefully made, and he was so scrupulous about 
every cent in a transaction, no matter how large, that 
he had gained a reputation for parsimoniousness, yet 
in the erection of this mill, he was most extravagant. 
He finished it throughout with solid mahogany, polished 
with the same care and skill that he used to bestow 
upon the piano cases of his earlier days, and it is 
affirmed it cost him fully two hundred thousand dollars. 
It was known as the " Mahogany Mill " and also as 
" Lick's Folly." Yet, as it turned out the finest flour then 
made in California, it was a paying investment, and 
its product commanded the market of the whole 
coast. Around the mill he planted an orchard of fruit 
trees with his own hands, and this, in itself, soon 
proved to be a fortune. It was owing to his peculiar 
and individualistic ideas as to fruit culture that another 
story of his miserliness became current. He had a 
theory that all trees were materially improved by the 
presence of bones around the roots. Accordingly 
he went around the town, to the restaurants and 
private houses, securing all the stray bones he could 



JAMES LICK 265 

find, which he then carefully buried around the roots 
of his trees. As he offered no explanation of his peculiar 
request, all kinds of stories were spread as to the uses 
to which the bones were placed. 

But he had other and larger interests in San Fran- 
cisco, and was also interested in the work of the Paine 
Memorial Society of Boston, so he donated the mill 
and orchard on January 16, 1873, to this society, one- 
half of the proceeds of the sale to be used for building 
a Memorial Hall, and the other half to sustain a lecture 
course. It scarcely needs to be added that he was highly 
disgusted when an agent of the Boston society came to 
California, sold the property, without consulting him, 
for eighteen thousand dollars cash, and returned with 
the money to the city of culture. 

To this day the older residents of San Jose tell of 
Lick's careful mode of living, while owning the palatial 
mill. He lived in a small cottage, meagrely and simply 
furnished, and drove an old rattletrap wagon, tied 
together with rope, and with a harness that could only 
be called leather through a courteous remembrance of 
its early days. He was careless about his clothing, 
unsociable in his nature, and never entertained man 
or woman at his own table. Naturally such a man 
was regarded as " queer," and his indifference to dress 
and general appearance was put down to miserliness. 
Yet James Lick proceeded on the even tenor of his 
way, planting rare and beautiful trees, which he im- 
ported from all parts of the world at great expense, and 
as the result of large correspondence. Indeed, it can 
safely be affirmed that to him, more than to any other 



266 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

person up to the day of his death, California owes its 
wealth of imported trees and shrubbery. 

As soon as San Francisco began to grow, Lick erected 
what was, in its day, the most elaborate, magnificent 
and palatial — in the truest sense of that much abused 
word — hotel in the world. It was ahead of its time, 
yet in a city of such marvellous growth and profligate 
expenditure as San Francisco, it was soon surpassed. 
The dining-room was fashioned after that of the palace 
of Versailles, the floor alone being composed of many 
thousands of pieces of inlaid rare and costly woods, 
all polished like a piano case. With his own hands he 
carved some of the rosewood frames of the mirrors, 
and he engaged the leading California artists to paint 
their best pictures for panels around the room. 

At the age of seventy-seven he found himself in failing 
health, possessed of several millions of dollars, with 
practically no one dependent upon him. For some time 
he had contemplated giving to the California Academy 
of Sciences a piece of land on Market Street, for the 
erection of a building for a museum and office pur- 
poses. This gift was largely brought about through 
the wise suggestions made to Mr. Lick by William H. 
Knight, then in charge of the California books of the Ban- 
croft store, a member of the Academy, and later the presi- 
dent of the Southern California Academy of Sciences. 
Professor George Davidson, of the Coast Survey, then 
president of the Academy, called to thank him for 
his gift, and in the conversation that followed, Mr. 
Lick disclosed his intention of leaving a large sum of 
money for the erection of the most powerful telescope 



JAMES LICK 267 

yet constructed. His ideas were unformed, his knowl- 
edge of the science exceedingly limited, and he was self- 
willed to a degree. Yet so earnest was he in his de- 
termination to found the Observatory that Professor 
Davidson held many conferences with him from Feb- 
ruary, 1873, to August, 1874, in regard to the subject. 
Of these he says: 

" James Lick originally intended to erect the Ob- 
servatory at Fourth and Market Streets (San Francisco). 
His ideas of what he wanted and what he should do 
were of the very vaguest character. It required months 
of careful approaches and the proper presentation of 
facts to change his views on location. He next had a 
notion of locating it on the mountains overlooking his 
mill-site, near Santa Clara, and thought it would 
be a Mecca, — but only in the sense of a show. 

" Gradually I guided his judgment to place it 
on a great elevation in the Sierra Nevadas, by placing 
before him the results of my experimental work at 
great elevations, as well as the experience of other high- 
altitude observers. At the same time, by my presenta- 
tion of facts and figures of the cost and maintenance 
of other observatories, he named the sum of one million, 
two hundred thousand dollars in one of his wills, as 
the sum to be set aside for founding the James Lick 
Observatory, and for its support." 

On July 16, 1874, he made an agreement, or really 
a deed of trust, turning over to certain well-known 
citizens of San Francisco, the California Academy of 
Sciences, and the Society of California Pioneers, his 
vast estate, to be by them used for the various scientific 



268 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and philanthropic purposes specified. The gifts to his 
relatives in all amounted only to twenty-four thousand 
dollars, but for the Observatory he set aside seven hun- 
dred thousand dollars, the same to contain a " powerful 
telescope, superior to and more powerful than any 
telescope ever yet made," which was to be located on a 
site he had already purchased on the borders of Lake 
Tahoe, Placer County, California. 

The trustees named took possession of the property 
in accordance with the trust deed, sold some of the 
property and were duly proceeding to carry out the 
provisions of the deed when Mr. Lick changed his 
mind and wrote them the following letter. It was dated 
San Francisco, March 24, 1875. 

" When I executed the instrument in which you are 
named as my trustees, I supposed I had a very short 
time to live, and that if my intentions of founding an 
observatory and other public institutions were ever to 
be carried out, it would be through you. I was there- 
fore induced, hastily and without due and proper con- 
sideration, to execute the instrument referred to. It is 
still my intention, and ever will be, to carry out the 
general purposes therein expressed, but I now find 
upon a cool and careful study of the provisions of that 
instrument which my improved health has enabled 
me to make, that there are many and serious mistakes 
and errors of detail in it which ought to be corrected. 
One of the most serious of these is, that by the terms 
of the said instrument, the execution of the great works 
which I have contemplated is virtually postponed until 
after my death — a result that I certainly never in- 




THE SUMMIT, LICK OBSKRVATORY, MT. HAMILTON, CALIFORNIA. 

Page 270 




MAIN BUIl.DINC;, LICK O liSL RVATORV, MT. HAMILTON, CAL. 




3= r: 




u 
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X P 



JAMES LICK 269 

tended. Another serious objection is that some of the 
beneficiaries (whose claims upon me I perhaps did not 
sufficiently consider) have declined to accept its terms, 
and this fact, as I am advised, will indefinitely delay, 
if not entirely prevent, the carrying out of the plans, 
for the execution of which you were appointed my 
trustees and agents, 

" Under the circumstances, and as I desire while I 
still live to see the works contemplated at least started, 
and as I am advised and am entirely satisfied that the 
instrument referred to does not and cannot accomplish 
the purposes desired by the public, as well as myself, 
I respectfully ask you, and each of you, to resign or to 
revest in me the subject of the trust, so that by the exe- 
cution of other papers better calculated to carry out 
my plans, the works contemplated from the beginning 
may at once be commenced and carried on to com- 
pletion without delay." 

I have thus quoted this letter in full for two important 
reasons. One is that it shows that James Lick was 
willing, openly, to confess that he had been too hasty; 
and the second is, that he saw clearly that the way to 
have his wishes carried out was to get them well started 
while he was alive. 

Three days after the date of this letter the board 
of trustees acceded to his request, and a complete revo- 
cation of the trust deed was filed with the recorder. 

This action caused a vast amount of unfavorable 
comment by those who were not willing to believe 
in Mr. Lick's good faith, but it made no difference 
whatever to him. He called conferences with his 



270 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

heirs, finally settled with them as to their wishes, and 
received signed releases against his estate and pledges 
that they would not contest his will. Then, free from 
all fear of disturbance, he conferred afresh with scien- 
tists, men of affairs, philanthropists and others, made 
a fresh trust deed (dated September 21, 1875), ap- 
pointing five new trustees, of which his son, John H. 
Lick, was one. There were a few minor changes in 
the benefactions, but in the main they remained as he 
originally wrote them. 

But this second board was not entirely satisfactory, 
and a third one was selected in 1876. On the first of 
October of this year he passed away, and though 
several legal complications hampered the carrying out 
of the provisions of the trust for some three years, 
they were ultimately set in motion and have all been 
successfully completed. 

The chairman of this third board, Captain R. S. 
Floyd, and the vice-chairman, Mr. J. S. Sherman, 
afterwards placed in my hands many letters and papers 
of James Lick, from which some interesting facts were 
gleaned. The Tahoe site for the Observatory was given 
up on account of the winter cold. Mount St. Helena 
was considered, but it was not until his old henchman 
and confidential man of business, Thomas E. Fraser, 
assured him that Mount Hamilton, overlooking his 
former home at San Jose, was over four thousand feet 
high, that he decided to locate it there. In impetuous 
haste he sent Mr. Fraser that same day to ride or climb 
to the summit and see whether it was possible to 
build an observatory there, and on his return with a 



JAMES LICK 271 

crude plan, showing that after certain leveling was 
done it would be a very favorable site, and would still 
be over the stipulated height, he made a proposition 
to the Board of Supervisors that if they would build a 
good wagon road to the summit, he would pledge himself 
to erect there the great Observatory that should contain 
the largest telescope yet made. 

This road, twenty-six miles long, was built in 1876 
at a cost of seventy-eight thousand dollars, and the 
Observatory duly established there, and many thou- 
sands from all parts of the world have since visited it. 
It should not be forgotten, however, that Mount Hamil- 
ton was on government land, therefore, in June, 1876, 
an act was passed by Congress, granting the site to the 
University of California. 

His greatest benefactions are those which have 
helped the poor and needy; the free baths, where not 
only all may " wash and be clean," but where laundries 
with drying grounds and rooms are provided for the 
poor, where they may do their laundry free of expense, 
and thus remove the discomfort of it from their small 
homes; the Old Ladies' Home, where women with few 
or no friends may spend their declining years at least 
free from sordid cares; gifts to the orphans of San 
Francisco and San Jose; to the Society for the Pre- 
vention of Cruelty to Animals; and the School of 
Mechanical Arts, which has aided thousands of 
youth of both sexes to gain practical knowledge 
giving them an upward step in life. 

That James Lick was an eccentric man none will 
deny. That his gifts were the result of varied and mixed 



272 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

motives is also true. But the main facts of his life 
stand out boldly and clearly. These are, first, that he 
was indifferent to the ill will of those who assumed 
that he was a miser, and, second, that he bore them 
no malice for this false assumption. He gave of his 
vast fortune for the benefit of the people, many of 
whom, doubtless, had cast animadversions upon him. 
These two facts denote him a man of large soul and of 
heroic character, and one whom the youth of California 
and elsewhere may well admire and emulate. 



CHAPTER XXVII 

THE TENACIOUS HERO OF THE COMSTOCK, 
ADOLPH SUTRO 

'nr^O further any large and legitimate enterprise which 
-'- engages the labor of a great number of people 
and confers benefits on many is a praiseworthy under- 
taking, but to father an enterprise by new and hitherto 
untried methods, which produce these beneficent 
results, is heroic. Such was the work of Adolph Sutro, 
one time mayor of San Francisco, the creator of Sutro 
Heights, the planter of the Sutro Forest, the builder 
of the Cliff House and the Sutro Baths; and the pro- 
jector of the San Francisco which is now growing up 
in that immediate neighborhood. The work to which 
I refer was the planning and construction of the Sutro 
Tunnel, in connection with the celebrated Comstock 
mines in Nevada. Few people of this generation can 
recall the heroic battle fought by Mr. Sutro, but as it 
was a turning point in his own life and led to his be- 
coming a leader in good work for the benefit of the com- 
mon people, it is worthy of an important place in this 
California Hero book. 

Born in Aix-la-Chapelle, Germany, April 29, 1830, 
of well-to-do parents, whose house, still standing, is an 
indication of their prosperous position, young Adolph was 



274 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

given a fair education and early set to work. At six- 
teen he was superintendent of his father's cloth factory, 
and at eighteen was sent to estabUsh and then manage a 
branch factory at Memel, in Eastern Prussia. In 1847 
his father died, leaving a large family of young children. 
The Revolution of 1848 ruined his business. x\s all of 
his sons were too young to cope with the great diffi- 
culties that arose, Mrs. Sutro decided to come to the 
United States, where she thought her boys would have 
a better chance in life. She accordingly left for Balti- 
more, but, on the arrival of the family in New York, 
that city was found to be in the exciting throes of the 
first news of the California gold discovery. This 
decided young Adolph, so leaving his mother and the 
rest of the family to proceed on their way, he immedi- 
ately reembarked for San Francisco, where he arrived 
November 21, 1850, with a fortune which consisted 
solely of " health, hope, courage, ambition and in- 
domitable energy." To this category should be added 
character, for without that he never could have attained 
to what the future had in store for him. 

The first nine years of his life on the Pacific Coast were 
devoted to petty trade, — the buying and selling of 
anything that assured a profit. In 1856 he married. 
Three years later he felt a similar thrill to that which 
had allured him to California, caused by the discovery 
of the afterwards world-celebrated Comstock lode in 
Nevada. 

Immediately the mining and speculative world ran 
to the scene, and the activity displayed was marvelous. 
Shafts ^vere dug, mines opened, mills erected, with all 



ADOLPH SUTRO 275 

the necessary camp accompaniments, with incredible 
speed, and when the silver and gold began to pour into 
the mints and markets of the country, the excitement 
and exodus Nevada ward increased. Among those 
caught in this enlarged flood was Adolph Sutro. He 
went to Virginia City, and in a very short time his 
practical and trained mind saw that the clumsy and 
old-fashioned methods being followed in mining were 
both inadequate to the needs and frightfully expensive. 
The shafts of the mines were deep, as low as fifteen 
hundred feet; the temperature in the lower levels high, 
ranging even to 110° Fahrenheit; great volumes of 
water were encountered, and pumping fifteen hundred 
feet was expensive; the air was foul and poisonous, 
and like an inspiration the thought flashed through the 
visitor's mind: Why not drain and ventilate those 
mines ? 

That was the beginning of a new era, not only in the 
Comstock mines, but in Adolph Sutro's life. Before 
this is considered, however, let us take a survey of the 
field and learn somewhat of the interesting history of 
this noted mining region. 

Silver had possibly been mined on Mount Davidson 
before the discovery of the Comstock lode, though 
it is not certain. Two brothers, Hosea B. and Edgar 
Allen Grosch, sons of a Universalist minister of Utica, 
New York, as early as 1852 mined, or at least pros- 
pected, for silver, and there seems to be an impres- 
sion that they found it, though the Groschs were very 
reticent about their doings. They did not associate 
with the other prospectors, and seem to have been of 



276 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

a very superior class, rumor crediting them with an 
extensive Hbrary in their cabin, which stood near where 
Sih-er City later was located. 

In January, 1859, H. T. P. Comstock and others, 
among whom was a man named John Bishoj), went 
prospecting from Johnstown, and reached a hillock in 
Gold Canyon, where they found a little gold in the 
quartz. Their prospect pans gave them gold as fme 
as flour and only small amounts, but as there was plenty 
of water near by to work the placers with, they decided 
to locate the area, and call it Gold Hill. Among these 
miners were Peter C Riley and Pat McLaughlin. They 
located well up at the head of the ravine, but their 
" diggings " did not " pan out " quite as well as those 
lower down, — only about one dollar and a half to 
two dollars per day, and they soon began to feel dis- 
couraged. Water was scarce, so they decided to dig 
a hole to make a reservoir. At a depth of about four 
feet they struck into the rich decomposed ore of 
what afterwards was known as the Ophir mine. It was 
queer looking stuff, — a great bed of black sulphurets 
of silver filled with spangles of native gold. The gold, 
however, was of a much lighter color than that hitherto 
found, and for awhile they were uneasy lest it were 
not pure metal. But they were glad for any kind of 
a " change of luck," and now they found the bottoms 
of their rockers covered with gold as soon as a few 
buckets of the new dirt had been washed. Soon they 
were taking out a thousand dollars' worth of gold a day, 
with the rockers alone. Then they took the harder 
lumps left on the screens, and pounded them in a com- 



ADOLPH SUTRO 277 

mon hand mortar, and one of them thus took out one 
hundred dollars a day in gold. 

The day the disco\-ery was made, Comstock hap- 
pened upon the scene, and on seeing the unusual quality 
of the ore coolly told the two miners that they were 
working on his land, — that he had " taken up " one 
hundred and sixty acres as a ranch, and that he also 
owned the water they were using. There seems to have 
been some doubt expressed later whether Comstock 
had posted up the notices required by the law before 
he could legally claim the one hundred and sixty acres 
and the water, but, at the time, he thoroughly con- 
vinced the two miners and refused to allow them to 
work unless he and his friend Penrod were admitted 
to an equal share in the claim, with an additional 
hundred feet for the use of the water. After some 
haggling, his terms were agreed to, and these four men, 
and another named J. A. Osborne, commonly known 
as " Kentuck," became the recorded locators of the 
world-famed Ophir mine, which in about ten years 
yielded nearly five millions of dollars' worth of gold and 
silver. 

These original miners, however, had no idea that 
the blue-looking, heavy rock, which sank to the bottom 
of their pans and bothered them so, was of any value. 
They cursed it, and wished the gold were not found 
in such unworkable company. Not only did they not 
save this rock and its shattered particles, but they most 
conscientiously got rid of it as rapidly as possible. 
Its worth was not discovered until a gentleman from 
the Truckee meadows visited the spot, and picking up 



278 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

a piece of this " cursed blue rock," took it with him, 
merely as a curiosity. He gave it to Judge James Walsh 
of Grass Valley, who took it to the assay office of 
Melville Atwood, which happened to be not far from 
his own. To the blank astonishment of all concerned, it 
was found that this ore yielded at the rate of several 
thousand dollars per ton in gold ami silver. As soon 
as this fact was known, excitement took full possession 
of the town, and in less than twenty-four hours there 
began an exodus from California to these new mines, 
the locators of which were quietly washing out the 
gold, and throwing away the silver, perfectly content 
that they had the " biggest thing on earth " as it was. 

When the newcomers arrived, they began to swarm 
over the hills like grasshoppers. Soon the original 
prospectors were so lost in the crowd that they were 
hardly known or recognized. But the reports of the 
new finds soon brought men of understanding, and 
under their direction the mining began to be done 
in a more scientific manner, and the world learned that 
a real " bonanza " had been found. 

The location of these mines is on Mount Davidson, 
a forbidding peak of a range of hills that runs east of, 
and parallel with, the Sierra Nevada. The country 
slopes down to the valley of the Carson River, and it 
was this slope towards the Carson that led Adolph 
Sutro to formulate his Tunnel Plan for working the 
Comstock mines. As we have seen, he visited the 
mines soon after the discovery of their great wealth, 
and had seen some of the ore brought out. Says he: 
" I had expected to see an extraordinary deposit, but 




o I 



ADOLPH SUTRO 279 

I was astonished at the magnitude and importance of 
the discoveries that had been made. At that time only 
forty tons of ore had been taken from the mines and 
sent to San Francisco. Their reduction yielded a sum 
in the gross of one hundred and sixty thousand dollars, 
or an average of four thousand dollars to the ton — • 
the most profitable forty tons that have ever been 
worked from that lode." This was in March, i860. 
On the twentieth of April a letter that he had \\Titten 
appeared in the San Francisco Alta Calijornia, in 
which he said: 

*' The working of the mines is done without any 
system as yet. Most of the companies commence 
without an eye to future success. Instead of running a 
tunnel from low down on the hill, and then sinking 
a shaft to meet it, which at once insures drainage, ven- 
tilation, and facilitates the work by going upwards, 
the claims are mostly entered from above and large 
openings made, which require considerable timbering, 
and expose the mine to all sorts of difficulties." 

Here was the inception of the idea of the Sutro 
Tunnel. In 1861 Mr. Sutro erected a mill for the 
reduction of the ores, so that it would not be necessary 
to ship them to San Francisco, and then he began to 
work for the tunnel. In 1864 he went to the State 
Legislature of Nevada and petitioned it to do all that 
could legally be done to give him a right of way for the 
tunnel, which was done, section two of the act defi- 
nitely stating " that the object of the said tunnel is 
for the purpose of draining the Comstock lode, and 
all other lodes along its line of direction or course, 



28o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and for the discovery and development of other lodes 
through which the same may pass." 

In spite of the fact that the Nevada legislature passed 
this act, many of the members thought Mr. Sutro was 
hopelessly insane to propose anything of the kind, and 
that it could never be accomplished. They seemed to 
act upon the theory that as he could not possibly use 
the franchise, it could do no harm to grant it, and 
anyway they would get rid of him and his importu- 
nities. 

But they did not know their man. With this franchise 
he organized a company, the president of which was 
United States Senator Stewart, — a man of great 
force of character as well as shrewd business ability. 
He now began to make contracts with the mines on 
the Comstock lode, but was met on every hand with 
the indifference of men who were used to mining in 
one fashion, and who could see neither sense nor 
reason in any new plan. With tireless energy, and 
never-flagging faith in his scheme, howe\er, he worked 
on, and at last succeeded in closing a number of con- 
tracts by which the Mining Companies bound them- 
selves to pay the Tunnel Company two dollars a ton 
on each and every ton of ore that might be extracted 
for all time to come. This royalty at the time was 
deemed a small sum, if the advantages Mr. Sutro 
promised were actually manifested. 

With these contracts in hand, it should now have 
been an easy matter for the Tunnel Company to have 
raised all the money they needed for the construction 
of the tunnel. But to their amazement a sudden hos- 



ADOLPH SUTRO 281 

tility, secret and powerful, seemed to have developed, 
and capitalists fought shy of the project. 

An Act of Congress was now applied for, granting 
to !Mr. Sulro the right to construct the tunnel through 
government territory, and to enjoy the profits from any 
mines that might be discovered in the dri\ing of the 
tunnel. It also gave the privilege of buying some land 
at the mouth of the tunnel, and confirmed the royalty 
rate of two dollars per ton to be paid by the Mining 
Companies, and made the patents of companies there- 
after obtained subject to the payment of the same 
royalty. It was thought necessary by all concerned 
to have these two latter clauses made compulsory, 
or else it might be possible that after the tunnel was 
built, at tremendous expense, and the mines drained 
and ventilated thereby, some company would rei)udiate 
its contract, and thus get all the benefits, while refusing 
to share in any of the expense. 

Now began a fight that for virulence and persistency 
has had no equal on this coast. The most powerful 
monied interests of California and of Nevada, led by 
the Bank of California, determined to prevent the 
building of the tunnel. Mr. Sutro openly claimed their 
opposition arose because they were now alive to its 
importance, and to the financial return that would 
come from it, which they were determined to secure 
for themselves, and history clearly supports his con- 
tention. A lesser man would have given up the fight 
in disgust, and have died broken-hearted. But not so 
Adolph Sutro. He proved " a born fighter," and with 
a simple directness that looked like folly, and yet 



282 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

could not have been bettered by a political genius, he 
began to tight his opponents right on their own ground, 
where their authority was supreme, their word law, their 
acts unquestioned, and their arrogance and insolence 
unbounded. 

He had worked on his plan for several years, ex- 
pended all his own money and all the capital he could 
interest in securing Congressional action, had been 
several times to Washington and to Europe at great 
expense, and now found the most powerful interests 
of California and Nevada blocking his further progress. 
They stopped his credit throughout the banking world, 
going so far as to send disparaging telegrams to New 
York and European banks; and they owned or con- 
trolled all the newspapers on the coast and in Nevada, 
so that he could not print any explanation or appeal 
about the tunnel, even though he paid for it. They 
were sure they had him cornered. The very perfection 
and completeness (apparently) of their plans was the 
secret of Sutro's ultimate success. He had a large 
number of sensational announcements printed, and 
thoroughly distributed simultaneously through every 
street of Virginia City and all the adjacent mining 
camps, calling a mass-meeting of the miners, and tell- 
ing that he wished to lay before them the whole of his 
plans and ideas in regard to the Sutro Tunnel. When the 
hour arrived, the miners were there en masse. They 
admired the pluck of the man ; they knew the power of 
the interests he was fighting, and they were well aware 
that it was " on the cards " that Sutro was to be crushed, 
and the Sutro Tunnel then built by his opponents. 



ADOLPII SUTRO 283 

I have the speech that Mr. Sutro delivered on that 
occasion before me now as I \\Tite. How it rings with 
the natural oratory of pure democracy. How plain and 
outspoken it was. Here was no political trimming, no 
straddling the fence, no vagueness, no uncertainty, 
no temporizing. The speaker used Christ's own 
method: " Let your yea be yea, and your nay, nay." 
He said exactly what he meant, and meant what he said 
to be understood by his hearers exactly as he said it. 
And they accepted it in that same spirit. Of course his 
enemies called it the speech of a demagogue, and 
claimed that he had tried to incite his hearers to vio- 
lence. In a hearing of the Sutro Tunnel Commission, 
afterwards appointed by Congress, quotations were read 
from this speech to prove this claim. Here is one of the 
quotations so used: 

" Rouse up, then, fellow citizens. You have no 
Andrew Jackson among you to crush out the bank 
which has taken your liberties, but you have the power 
within yourselves. I do not mean to incite you to any 
violence; I do not mean to have you assert your rights 
by riot, force and threats. That would be unwise, un- 
necessary, and would only recoil upon yourselves. But 
I do mean to say that you can destroy your enemy by 
simple concert of action. Let all of you join in together 
to build the Sutro Tunnel ; that is the way to reach them. 
They do already tremble lest you will act; they know 
you will form a great monied power, and that you will 
own the mines; they know it will cement you to- 
gether." 

The whole speech is a document that should be 



284 HEROES OE CALIFORNL'X 

preserved. It is full of historic and scientific data in 
regard to these and other mines that are invaluable 
to the student. But most of all is it useful as a revela- 
tion of the spirit of a man of growing power; a man, 
who, unconsciously, was preparing himself to be a 
Voice for the common people. True! there are times 
when liis indignation asserts itself, and this indignation 
is exercised against those who would crush out his 
great plans, — or absorb them for their own private 
advantage. Yet one cannot but admire the pluck, 
the courage, the daring that nerved this one man, 
single-handed, in the very stronghold of the enemy, to 
say such words of them as these : 

" It became evident to me that the ring entertained 
the opinion that their combined efforts must soon 
crush me out and use me up financially, physically and 
mentally in such an unequal contest. But they had 
got hold of the uTong man; I was not so easily to be 
disposed of. When I found that these traitors, after 
having signed contracts, after having urged and helped 
me on to expend mine and my friends' money, after 
having induced me to labor almost day and night for 
several years, which I did with zeal and enthusiasm — 
I say, when I found that they were determined to rob 
me of my labors, I made up my mind that they should 
not succeed in their efforts. I was determined that this 
base, unscrupulous and mercenary combination should 
not carry out its purposes, and made a sacred vow that 
I would finish this work if I had to devote the whole 
balance of my life to it, and defend my rights as long 
as the breath of life was in me." 



ADOLPH SUTRO 285 

But he did not stop here. While he was about it 
he determined to become aggressi\e, as well as de- 
fensive. He took the war right into their own camp 
and attacked them where he knew they would feel it 
worse than anywhere else, viz., their pockets. He 
exposed what every miner present knew full well, — 
their nefarious business methods, as well as their 
absolutely dishonest and wicked gambling system, and 
the amazed miners listened as he unfolded in clearest 
English plots and schemes that, as a rule, were never 
referred to, save in whispered tones. Here is a small 
part of this expose. 

" There is still another way by which you are vic- 
timized. Supposing the superintendent and foreman 
of a mine are pliable tools in the hands of these cormo- 
rants, how easy it is, when a rich body of ore is dis- 
covered, to keep it secret, and instead of taking it out 
start the miners going in the wrong direction, taking out 
inferior ore or bed-rock, sending it to the mills, in- 
volving the mine in debt, necessitating assessments, 
and thus depreciating the stock. And how simple is it 
for the ring to gobble it all up again quietly, while it is 
down, and after a large amount of it is secured, to set 
all the men to work that can find room and take out 
the good ore, make a great noise over it, declare large 
dividends, send up the stock, and then quietly sell out 
and pocket a million or so. 

" How many of you have been bitten in this manner ? 
What show have you when the cards are thus stacked 
on you ? Have you ever seen a cat play with a mouse ? 
It lets it run a little piece and then catches it again, 



286 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and repeals the experiment a number of times, to its 
great delight and amusement; but did you ever know 
it to fail that the cat ate up the mouse in the long run? 

" A few of you make a good strike once in awhile 
by sheer accident; that keeps up the excitement, and 
so you keep on gambling in stocks, pay your assessments, 
and in the end you will all be eaten up like the poor 
mouse. There is no guess-work about it; it is a sure 
thing." 

The results of this address were many. It gained 
for him the confidence, respect, adherence and financial 
support of the miners, so that he was enabled to go ahead 
on the work in a modest way, regardless of the so-called 
" financiers." It naturally gained for him the in- 
creased enmity and hostility of those opposed to his 
projects, and he was startled and doubtless somewhat 
alarmed, soon after, to receive a telegram from Wash- 
ington urging him to hasten there, as the agents of the 
Bank of California were seeking to persuade Congress 
to repeal the bill granting certain rights and concessions 
to the Tunnel Company. He went at once, and there, 
as elsewhere, found strong men ready to stand behind 
him. General Blair, of Michigan, in the House of 
Representatives, declared that a representative of the 
Bank of California " took me in his buggy and carried 
rae to his crushing mills, and showed me the line of the 
new railroad he was building, or rather had got the 
people to build for him. He took me to his mines, to 
the very bottom of them, showed me all about them, and 
told me he was determined this Sutro Tunnel business 
should be stopped." Then, closing his speech, he 



ADOLPH SUTRO 287 

said: " Sir, this bank has waved its hand over the 
Comstock lode and ordered Sutro away. That is the 
whole of this transaction, as it seems to me." 

A full discussion of the matter in Congress led to the 
appointment of a Commission. Before this Commission, 
Mr. Sutro acted as his own lawyer, examining and 
cross-examining witnesses, and more than holding his 
own against the clever and skillful lawyer sent by the 
Bank of California to harass and defeat him. 

More than this, it showed how earnestly he had gone 
to work thoroughly to master the subject in which he 
was interested. The opposition had the superintendents 
of two of their mines present, and they sought to 
confuse the Commission and Mr. Sutro with their 
superior knowledge. But they had misjudged their 
man. Sutro proved himself to be a thorough engineer ; 
he had the laws of force and motion " at his finger 
ends;" in figures his calculations were accurate and 
made with lightning-like rapidity; he demonstrated his 
familiarity with geology, orology, topography, metal- 
lurgy, hydrostatics, mechanics, and engineering, and 
convinced the Commission that he knew more about 
the ventilation and drainage of mines than either the 
theoretical experts or the " practical men." The 
report of the meetings of this commission is fascinating 
in the extreme. Every page shows the watchfulness, 
the vigilance, the resourcefulness, the eternal per- 
sistence of this man of new and large ideas. For once 
money could not purchase mental power enough to 
dominate and control. This one man was more than 
a match for them all. 



288 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

The whole story in detail should be told, but there 
is not a tenth part room in this book for that purpose. 
The enemies of the Tunnel were indefatigable and 
powerful. It seemed as if they could never be defeated. 
They bought up senators and representatives, but Mr. 
Sutro's clear course had won him so many friends in 
Washington that when these hirelings sought to intro- 
duce bills that would nullify his work for the Tunnel, 
they invariably detected the nefarious plots, and suc- 
ceeded in having amendments passed to these bills 
providing "that nothing herein shall be construed to 
affect the rights of the Sutro Tunnel Company." 

This was one of the first great fights by an individual 
against corporate greed and corruption. Sutro's was 
the voice of common humanity against the man who 
would ride upon its shoulders and exploit it for his own 
financial advancement. It was an epoch-forming 
fight, for from that day to this, more earnestly than 
ever before, graft, greed, corporate selfishness and 
corruption ha\'e been attacked and punished. The 
fight is not yet ended. Many a year's battles are yet 
to be fought, but each year the common people are 
learning more and more about their " inalienable 
rights," and clear-eyed, pure-souled teachers, prophets 
and warriors are arising from their ranks to educate, 
inspire, and battle for their fellows. For his work in 
this regard on the Comstock, Adolph • Sutro deserves 
the heartfelt thanks of all the generations that will 
come after him on the Pacific Coast, and not only in 
this limited area, but throughout the world. His fight 
was successful. His fearless firmness and bulldog 



ADOLPH SUTRO 289 

persistence ultimately won. " He fought the bank to 
a finish," , — as a Nevada State official recently ex- 
pressed it, and the tunnel was finally completed in 
October, 1878. Three years later I went through it, 
and from that day to this my admiration for its creator 
has increased. The tunnel is ten feet high, twelve 
feet wide, twenty thousand five hundred feet long, with 
north and south branches having one thousand two 
hundred feet in the aggregate, making its entire length 
more than five miles. 

And there is one important thing that must not 
be forgotten. Not only did Mr. Sutro battle for his 
tunnel in Congress, and in Virginia City, not only did 
he meet experts, and lawyers, and commissioners, and 
"politicians, not only did he go to Europe and learn 
of engineers and scientists and political economists, 
not only did he finance this great project by interesting 
the capitalists of Europe in his undertaking, but, 
when work was to be done at the Tunnel he was there, 
ready, if necessary, to do his share side by side with the 
common man. As Hittell well says: " As a pusher of 
tunnel construction he was something like Charles 
Crocker as a driver of railroad building; he threw off 
his coat, rolled up his sleeves and took right hold, 
wherever he could help, encourage or hasten the work. 
He did not hesitate to strip and go to the front. Flying 
dirt and smoke, heat and foul air, dripping slush over- 
head and sticky mud underfoot had no terrors for -him. 
He went in with the grimy, half-naked miners; and, 
while he was with them, he was of them — a man of 
immense will power, of extraordinary executive ability, 



290 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the right sort of a man for the place and the labor while 
it lasted." 

Soon after the tunnel was completed Mr. Sutro 
disposed of his interests to his associates and retired 
to San Francisco. He arrived at a time of great de- 
pression. People were losing faith in the " destiny " 
of the city by the Golden Gate. Mr. Sutro at once 
gave practical evidence of his state of mind. He 
bought land by the hundreds, nay thousands of acres. 
He purchased the place now known as Sutro Heights 
and the region overlooking the world-famous Seal 
Rocks. He built the Cliff House, enlarged the old 
house on the hill and made it most homelike and 
comfortable, and then proceeded to fashion the garden 
that has added to his fame and carried the name of 
Sutro Heights to the ends of the earth. To hold the 
sand from blowing to and fro, and thus convert it 
into sites for future homes, he introduced the Bermuda 
and Bent grasses, and planted the Sutro Forest, at the 
same time collecting the great Library which he placed 
so generously at the disposal of students of every 
class, character, and nationality. Then he took upon 
himself the leadership in the great fight made against 
the Funding Bill of the Central Pacific Railway by 
which it is claimed he saved to the people of the United 
States upwards of a hundred millions of dollars. Next 
was a fight for a five cent fare, with transfers, for the 
city of San Francisco, which he triumphantly won. 
This led the people to elect him to the office of mayor, 
which office he honorably filled in the interests of all 
the people. 



ADOLPH SUTRO 291 

Thus his life stands, a monument of pluck, persever- 
ance, fighting against wTong, upholding the cause of 
the people, seeing great things, dreaming great visions, 
accomplishing great things, a truly heroic character, 
one whose memory true-hearted men and women will 
never let die. 



CHAPTER XXVIII 

THE FAR SIGHTED HERO OF THE ORANGE COLONY, 
JOHN WESLEY NORTH 

^TT^O go into a strange country, take a barren and 
-■- almost useless tract of land, experiment and dis- 
cover new methods or objects of agriculture and horti- 
culture and in less than forty years transform the 
desert into one of the richest cities — per capita — in 
the world, establishing upon a firm and permanent 
foundation a new industry, is an achievement sufficient 
to justify the enrolment of any man's name upon the 
list of his State's or nation's heroes. Such a man was 
John Wesley North, a native of New York State, 
who, on March 17, 1870, issued a circular from Knox- 
ville, Tennessee, where he then resided, entitled A 
Colony jor Calijornia. 

Before I proceed to give the history of the develop- 
ment of this colony, let me draw a rapid picture of it 
as it appears to-day, — in the year 1910. Stand with 
me on the top of Mount Rubidoux, which is located at 
the western boundary of Riverside. We reach this 
summit in an automobile, up a specially constructed 
road, built by the people of Riverside and Henry E. 
Huntington, the railway magnate. It is one of the best 
pieces of automobile mountain-road in the world. 
At the foot of the mountain is the ancient Indian trail, 



J. W. NORTH 293 

over which Indians traveled prior to the advent of the 
Caucasian race, and where, later, the venerable Junipero 
Serra passed, with others of his Franciscan band, as 
they journeyed from San Diego to the Mission of 
San Gabriel the Archangel, The striking cross, near 
which we stand, was erected as a memorial to the 
pioneer Franciscan. 

Before us, reaching for miles and miles, stretch the 
orange groves of the city of Riverside, and the thousands 
of acres of the rich farming land of the Santa Ana 
valley. On the one hand, an ocean of rich, deep green, 
tinged with the vivid gold of the orange, and lashed 
into sparkling foam \^ith the exquisite cream of the 
myriads of blossoms, the odor from which rises as 
sweet-smelling incense to the very heavens. On the 
other, the many varied lighter greens of the fertile 
fields, while surrounding all as a massive and rugged 
frame for a perfect picture are the majestic mountains, 
with their snow-clad summits piercing the blue, at 
altitudes ranging from ten to thirteen thousand feet. 

Now let us seek to obtain a more /intimate view of 
the details. The municipal limits embrace a large 
proportion of the orange groves, about fifty-sLx square 
miles in extent. The city was incorporated in 1883. 
Churches and schools are prominent, there being 
twenty-five of the former and fifteen of the latter, be- 
sides a kindergarten and a good business college. 
Many of these buildings are of a superior order of 
architecture and substantially built. The striking 
building, from whose tower sweet chimes ascend, is 
the Glenwood Mission Hotel, one of the noted hotel 



294 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

structures of the world, and close by is the Carnegie 
Library, in similar style of architecture. In the near 
future a Federal building of the same style, to cost 
one hundred and ten thousand dollars, will be erected 
opposite to it, and on another corner, the City Hall. 
Not far away is the new Young Men's Christian Asso- 
ciation building, and all are surrounded by elaborate 
grounds, where lawns of richest emerald vie wdth the 
varying greens of the tropical shrubbery to delight 
the eye and rest the senses. 

Railway trains of three great transcontinental sys- 
tems shuttle back and forth in every direction, as well 
as electric cars. The long avenue is the world-famed 
Magnolia Avenue, a double drive, shaded by euca- 
lyptus, palm, and other majestic trees, and extend- 
ing for miles through the orange groves. On this 
avenue, about six miles from the civic centre, is Sher- 
man Institute, the government Indian school — the 
largest in the United States. Here, many hundreds of 
the Indian youth of both sexes are being educated, 
and Sherman is to the West what Carlisle is to the East. 

Near by is the newer Victoria Avenue, equally 
beautiful, also a double drive, with its surrounding 
groves and cultivated lands. Winding around from 
the mountains to the Pacific is the Santa Ana River, 
from which is drawn, in numerous radiating canals, 
the life-giving water, without which, in a short period 
of time, all these richly cultivated acres would revert 
to primeval desert. 

The population of this city is in the neighborhood 
of fifteen thousand people. Its assessed valuation is 




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J. W. NORTH 29s 

about twelve million dollars. In the orange season 
of 1 908- 1 909, it shipped nearly six thousand car-loads 
of oranges and lemons, which brought back to the pro- 
ducers three million dollars. These people, both in the 
city and country, are so averse to the saloon, that for 
many years there has not been a know^n liquor-shop, 
and the orderly character of the city, and its small 
criminal business in the Superior Court of the county, 
is proof of the wisdom of their action in thus banishing 
the saloon from their borders. 

The domestic water supply of the city is secured from 
artesian wells, supplied to the consumer under heavy 
pressure, and the canals of two great systems supply 
the irrigation water for the orange groves. 

For years the city operated its own electric light and 
power plant by water power, but a short time ago it 
sold forty thousand dollars' worth of four per cent, 
bonds at a premium, with which it put in a new steam 
plant to supplement the water-operated plant. 

This, in simplest outline, is the city that sprang from 
the modest circular, issued by Judge North, in 1870, 
Part of this circular read as follows : " Appreciating 
the advantages of associative settlement, we aim to 
secure at least one hundred good families who can 
invest one thousand dollars each in the purchase of 
land; while at the same time we invite all good, 
industrious people to join us who can, by investing 
a smaller amount, contribute in any degree to the 
general prosperity." The advantage of co-operative 
over individual settlement was thus forcefully ex- 
pressed. " Experience in the West has demonstrated 



296 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

that one hundred dollars invested in a colony is worth 
one thousand dollars invested in an isolated locality." 
The circular also stated: 

" We do not expect to buy as much land for the 
same amount of money in Southern California as we 
could obtain in the remote parts of Colorado or Wy- 
oming ; hut we expect it will he worth more in proportion 
to cost than any other land we could purchase in the 
United States. 

" We expect to have schools, churches, lyceum, 
public library, reading-room, etc., at a very early 
date, and we invite such people to join our colony as will 
esteem it a privilege to build them." 

In the summer of 1870, Judge North, together with 
Dr. James P. Greves of Marshall, Michigan, Judge 
E. G. Brown of Belle Plaine, Iowa, and other gentlemen 
interested in the proposed colony, visited Southern 
California and examined various locations offered as the 
site for the proposed colony. San Bernardino County 
was not then considered as possessing many attractions 
to settlers. It was the largest county in the State, con- 
taining over twenty-three thousand square miles, and 
contained but one town, San Bernardino, which was the 
county seat and was but little more than a village. 
That which is now Riverside was then included within 
the limits of San Bernardino County, but the entire 
county did not contain more than a fraction of the 
population, or of the assessed valuation, now contained 
within the municipal limits of the city of Riverside. 
There was no railroad within four hundred miles of 
San Bernardino, except a short road leading from Los 



J. W. NORTH 297 

Angeles to San Pedro, and practically all the travel 
to San Bernardino County was by steamer from San 
Francisco to San Pedro, and by team from Los Angeles 
to San Bernardino. The chief business of the county 
was the raising of sheep and cattle, and such general 
farming as provided for the necessities of the settlers 
themselves. 

The Riverside plain was then a dry, uncultivated 
mesa, which had never seen a civilized habitation, nor 
been disturbed by the hand of man. Over it ranged 
herds of cattle, and its sole product was the natural 
growth of alfilerilla upon which the stock fed. In ap- 
pearance it was much like the great stretches of desert 
the transcontinental traveler sees in passing through 
Arizona. The lands had a valuation of seventy-five 
cents an acre, and the Mexican who owned them 
laughed in his sleeve at Judge North's folly in purchas- 
ing them, for the Southern California Colony Asso- 
ciation, at two dollars and a half and three dollars and 
a half an acre, while he pocketed his receipts with de- 
light. 

And certainly it required the greatest faith, the 
clearest ideas, and a large amount of real moral her- 
oism to induce scores of people to leave their Eastern 
homes, take the long transcontinental journey — it 
was not as easy nor as cheap then, as now — and 
settle on this barren land. What if the plan should 
fail? What if the pessimistic prophecies of those who 
had owned the land for three-quarters of a century did 
come true ? It is easy enough now to see that the colo- 
nists were acting wisely, — wiser even than they knew, — 



298 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

but it was not clear then, save to the one or two brave 
and fearless souls, whose courage, enthusiasm, brains, 
foresight and practical common sense had to keep the 
rest in countenance while the experimenting was still 
going on, and the results were somewhat in doubt. 

Rightly to understand the success of Riverside, it is 
essential that we grasp at least a reasonably satisfactory 
idea of the character and personality of Judge North, 
and of the life behind this new experience, that led so 
many people, of such a superior order, to throw in their 
fortunes with him. 

His parents were old-fashioned Methodists, who 
lived on a farm, and who brought up their boy — 
named after the great founder of Methodism, John 
Wesley — in the strictest and most orthodox fashion. 
He worked hard as a farm hand for nine months in the 
year, and the other three he spent in the district school. 

He began to teach school himself at fourteen, and 
at sixteen he entered the Wesleyan University, at 
Middletown, Connecticut. Before he had reached the 
years of manhood, his soul was fired with the wrongs of 
the helpless slave, and he took their cause upon his heart 
and tongue with all the courage, fervor and intensity 
of his strong nature. He allied himself with the two 
Tappans (Arthur and Lewis), H. B. Stanton, William 
Goodell, William Lloyd Garrison, Gerritt Smith, 
Samuel J. May, and the good Quaker poet, John G. 
Whittier, He lectured in every town (save one) in 
Connecticut, going to and fro as a flaming brand, 
debating the question with any and all who disputed 
his facts or opposed his conclusions. 



J. W. NORTH 299 

When he was thirty years old he entered the legal 
profession, but his nature was not suited to monotony 
of office routine. He was essentially a pioneer, and 
in 1849, the year after his marriage, he took his young 
wife with him and settled at the Falls of St. Anthony, 
in the territory of Minnesota. From his cabin on 
Hennepin Island, he saw the first house erected on the 
site where now stands the wonderful city of Minneapo- 
lis. St. Anthony (now a part of Minneapolis), soon 
after his arrival, was a prosperous town of some three 
thousand inhabitants. Here North gained a good repu- 
tation and excellent practice as a lawyer, but he was 
not content long. With a few others he moved to a 
location sixty miles south, and founded the town of 
Fairbault, and, as soon as the mills, etc., were well 
at work, he sold out, moved again, and this time, un- 
aided and alone, founded what is now the prosperous 
city of Northfield. 

So far, everything had gone well with him; what- 
ever his hand touched seemed bound to succeed. But 
now came adversity. The financial panic of 1857 
swept over the whole country. The Minnesota boom 
fell as flat, as, twenty years later, did that of Southern 
California. Town lots were valueless, for, with the 
absence of ready money, immigration into the country 
practically ceased. From being accounted a rich man, 
Judge North found it difiicult to pay his debts, but 
before he left Northfield every obligation was met, 
though to do this meant the sacrifice of all the property 
he held. 

He was an enthusiastic Republican and entered 



300 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

heartily into the Fremont and the Lincoln campaigns. 
His fierce anti-slavery principles, his absolute famil- 
iarity with the subject, gained in his earlier years while 
lecturing, and his marvellous power as a debater, made 
him both hated, feared and respected by his opponents, 
and almost adored by his followers. He was made 
chairman of the Minnesota delegation to the RepubHcan 
Convention of i860 that nominated Lincoln, and was 
one of the notifying committee. When Lincoln was 
elected, he appointed Judge North to the position of 
surveyor-general of the Territory of Nevada, then in 
the very whirl of the excitement consequent upon the 
discovery of the Comstock lode. With the remarkable 
adaptability he afterwards displayed in such wonderful 
degree, he soon erected a stamp mill, and then, when 
his office was abolished, he returned to the practice of 
law, until the Bar of the territory recommended him 
to a Judgeship of the Supreme Court, to which Presi- 
dent Lincoln appointed him. This office he held until 
Nevada became a State. He was also president of the 
first Constitutional Convention of Ne^'ada. 

Then, at the close of the war, in 1865, his restless 
energies sent him down into the South to help in the 
work of reconstruction. He believed that Northern ideas 
and Northern capital would aid the South materially, 
and he had some of both, for his life and work in 
Nevada had been remunerative. February, 1866, there- 
fore, found him at Knoxville, Tennessee, owner of an 
iron foundry and machine shop. He knew nothing of 
the business, but that was no real difficulty, for he soon 
learned it. One thing, however, he could not learn, — 



J. W. NORTH 301 

and that was to keep his Northern tongue from ex- 
pressmg his Northern ideas. This to the Tennesseans 
was so objectionable that they not only made living 
with them unpleasant, but they added to the obstacles 
which the whole South was suffering from, as the imme- 
diate result of the war, and he was finally compelled, by 
the loss of all his capital, to abandon the enterprise and 
look elsewhere. 

It was at this time that he issued his famous Southern 
California Colony circular. He had never been in 
Southern CaUfornia, but had read much about it, had 
talked about it with Governor Fremont and others 
familiar with its climatic charms and horticultural 
possibilities. 

From what has already been shown of Judge North's 
career and character, the reader can now understand 
how he was able to secure such a high class of settlers 
to go with him into a country not one of them knew 
anything about. The repHes were numerous and 
speedy, and that same year saw him in San Francisco, 
seeking to engage capital to carry on his new enter- 
prise. His plan was to buy a large tract, divide it 
into blocks of two and a half acres, and farm lots of 
twenty acres, and then sell, with the right to water 
for irrigation from the ditches to be constructed by 
the owners. Even his own friends thought the plan 
chimerical, and, while not openly opposing it, they did 
nothing to help it along. Yet with fahh unbounded, 
the indefatigable and optimistic pioneer camped on the 
trail of the capitalists, until — possibly to get rid of 
him and his persistency — the Hon. Charles N. Felton 



302 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

agreed to furnish the money to buy the land and put 
in the irrigation canals. Full of joy, he started for 
Southern California, speedily investigated and decided 
upon the purchase of portions of the Jurupa Rancho 
and Rubidoux Rancho. These comprised the original 
Riverside colony, but in later years the bounds of 
the city have extended far beyond these limits. 
Riverside was laid out and surveyed and was 
then known as Jurupa, ' a name soon changed, 
however, to Riverside, as more euphonious and 
having reference to the Santa Ana River, from which 
the water supply of the new colony was derived. 
The construction of an irrigating canal was immedi- 
ately begun, and was completed as far as the town 
site in the summer of 1871. 

But what were the new colonists to engage in as a 
profitable business ? Here Judge North's foresight and 
sagacity stood the infant settlement in good stead. 
He carefully investigated the orange orchards of the 
old mission San Gabriel and the asistencia of San 
Bernardino. He found that oranges thrived with few 
setbacks, and, knowing the value of the fruit, saw 
a large commercial future for it. At that time there 
was so small a demand for oranges, nearly all large 
ranches having their own trees, that the industry may 
be said to have had no existence. A few orange trees 
had been raised from seed (in addition to those 
growing at the Missions), and were producing fruit 

' Jurupa is an Indian name, and was given to the " seven 
leagues of grazing land ; a little more." granted to Juan Bandini 
on September 28, 1838, by Juan B. Alvarado, Mexican Governor 
of California. 



J. W. NORTH 303 

ill a few isolated localities, usually upon low lands and 
not upon the high mesas, the irrigation of which was 
more difficult and costly, and which have since proved 
the best for orange-growling. The early settlers of 
Riverside met with many discouragements. They were 
remote from markets where they could either buy or 
sell to advantage; there were no adequate means of 
communication or transportation, and the country 
was necessarily of slow growth. There was no money 
to be had upon any kind of security or at any kind of 
interest. Those who had lived longer in the country, 
and had brought into bearing the few seedling trees 
referred to, insisted that the enterprise upon the River- 
side mesa could not possibly be successful; that the 
mesa land was not fit for cultivation; that it certainly 
would not produce oranges; that even if orange trees 
would grow upon it, they would not bear anything; 
and that even if they should bear, the hundreds of 
acres, which it was then expected to plant, would so 
overstock the market that oranges would not sell at 
any price, and orange gro\'es w^ould be worthless. 

Under these discouragements but cheered by the 
clear view^s of Judge North, the handful of people at 
Riverside worked steadily on. They knew nothing 
at that time of any of the improved or budded varieties 
of oranges, and knew of no way to produce the fruit 
except by bringing the seedling trees into bearing. 
There were no young trees in nursery nearer than Los 
Angeles, and a few were brought from there and 
planted. By far the greater number, however, were 
raised from the seed at Riverside. Decayed Tahiti 



304 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

oranges were purchased at San Francisco by the barrel 
and shipped to Riverside, where the seed was separated 
from the pulp by hand and planted in seed beds, finally 
making nursery and orchard trees. 

The Australian blue-gum, or eucalyptus, was then 
being introduced into California, and, thinking to raise 
some of these trees for the use of the settlement, an order 
was sent to a San Francisco seedman for five pounds 
of the seed. The answer was returned that there were 
not five pounds of the seed in the United States, but that 
one ounce of the seed would be sent for five dollars. 
That quantity was purchased, and from this ounce of 
seed the first eucalyptus trees of the colony were grown. 

It was not known at that time that a seedling lemon 
root was not a healthy or fit root for any citrus fruit, 
and great quantities of lemon seeds were planted and 
seedling lemon trees raised. These were found, after 
coming into bearing, to be so inferior and unhealthy 
that they were finally cut down and destroyed. The 
China lemon also, a very inferior variety, was raised 
from cuttings, making a tree or bush so wholly useless 
that it also was destroyed. Limes were raised from 
seed, and many extensive lime orchards were brought 
into bearing, only to find the fruit unprofitable; these, 
too, in turn were destroyed. 

Many acres of raisin vineyard were planted, and 
were so successful that large sums were realized by the 
settlers from the raisins. In fact. Riverside laid the 
foundation for the raisin industry in California. In 
later years, however, it was found that in the warmer 
valley of the San Joaquin, where the nights were warm 




PARENT WASHINGTON NAVEL ORANGE TREE, COURT OF THE GLEN- 
WOOD MISSION INN, RIVERSIDE, CAL. 
Transplanted by President Roosevelt. 

Page 305 



J. W. NORTH 305 

and the grape reached its maturity much earlier than 
in Riverside, the raisins could be cured before the 
beginning of the rainy season. Raisin growers found 
the true home of their industry in that region, and the 
Riverside raisin vineyards were almost entirely rooted 
out and replaced with more profitable fruit. 

In the early seventies occurred an incident which 
created slight interest at the time, but which proved 
to be fraught vdth incalculable good, not only to 
Riverside, but to the entire orange-growing industry 
of California. This was the receipt, by one of the 
settlers at Riverside, from a friend in the city of Wash- 
ington, of two orange trees, which had been brought 
to the Agricultural Department from the city of Bahia 
in Brazil. These were of the variety then knov/n as the 
Bahia orange, but which by reason of its peculiar 
appearance, remarkable success, and wide propagation 
in Riverside, has been since known as the Riverside 
Navel Orange. Buds were taken from these trees and 
inserted in the stocks of then growing orchards, and the 
variety has since been propagated from tree to tree until 
it is the best known, most extensively raised, and most 
profitable variety of orange produced in the United 
States. It is entirely seedless, and can only be propa- 
gated by budding or grafting. 

Perhaps the greatest discouragement in the whole 
history of this industry was that arising from the in- 
troduction and ravages of those small insects known as 
the red scale, and the white, or cottony cushion scale. 
These small insects multiplied so rapidly, and their 
presence upon the tree and effect upon the fruit was so 



3o6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

disastrous, that the orange growers saw ruin staring 
them in the face. At that time, however, science came 
to their aid. Scientific men were sent to remote parts 
of the globe in search of insect enemies of the red and 
white scale. Such enemies were found, were brought 
from Australia in small numbers, were colonized in 
the infected groves and orchards of Southern California, 
and their energetic and faithful work has proved a 
great protection against the scale insects. 

The whole growth of the industry which has made 
Riverside famous has been a long continued, earnest 
and persistent struggle to produce the finest fruit, 
to produce it in large quantities, to seek extended 
markets, to secure paying prices, to protect those mar- 
kets by adequate tariffs from foreign competition, and 
to provide, by means of co-operative packing and mar- 
keting associations and exchanges, for returning to the 
producer the largest possible share of the proceeds. 
It can be safely said that no industry in the country 
affords a better example of intelligent and thorough 
co-operation and complete success. 

At the same time it must not be understood that the 
whole project was carried out on the co-operative basis, 
as originally planned by Judge North. The initial 
expense of the irrigation works was so great that, as 
we have seen, a private company was compelled to 
take over both the land and the water. It spent some 
fifty thousand dollars on the first canal, and then, with 
water actually on the land, sold it to the colonists at 
twenty-five dollars an acre. This included the right 
to purchase a certain amount of the water, at a small 



J. W. NORTH 307 

annual charge, which originally was about a dollar 
an acre. As the demand for water grew, requiring the 
enlargement of the irrigation facilities, this annual 
charge grew to ten dollars an acre. But, at the same 
time, the value of the land thus irrigated leaped into 
figures hitherto undreamed of. In a few years the 
sheep ranch of Jurupa, still unimproved, save for the 
presence of the water, sold for from three to five hundred 
dollars an acre, while the growing orange orchards 
could not be purchased for less than one to two thou- 
sand dollars an acre. 

Devoting his energies unselfishly and energetically 
to the upbuilding of the community, Judge North was 
too busy helping others and directing municipal affairs 
to become a money-maker. He who founded the 
colony, and started the enterprise, had every oppor- 
tunity to " get in on the ground floor " and make great 
wealth, but resolutely turned his face in the other di- 
rection. He had learned years ago, in the old Methodist 
homestead, — and his many years of association with 
every class of men had confirmed the truth of the Christ 
statement, — that "Ye cannot serve God and mam- 
mon." He regarded faithful service to the people as 
service to God, and refused to be a money-getter for 
himself. Hence in none of his ventures did he reap a 
large pecuniary reward. When he left Riverside in 1880 
to go to Fresno County, he took very little money with 
him, though his wisdom and foresight had enabled 
many other people to accumulate competencies. 

In the later years of his life, I knew him well. He 
had seen that vast areas of land in the San Joaquin 



3o8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Valley, owing to its longer period of summer heat, were 
better adapted for the growth and curing of raisins 
than was Riverside. Accordingly he had established a 
colony there, near Fresno, in which he lived. Just as 
he had seen Riverside spring into a prosperity that no 
necromancy ever surpassed, so he saw Oleander and 
its surrounding colonies become one of the greatest 
raisin- producing centres of the world. 

Could he not, in his declining years, look out over 
the battle-fields of his life, and see where he had 
grappled with the forces of nature, and conquered and 
subdued them for man's benefit ? Could he not see 
where he had met an army of his fellows, grappled 
with their prejudices, their ignorance, their pessimism, 
their indifference, and routed these evils, and then, by 
the clear light of his own practical wisdom, steady 
foresight and boundless enthusiasm, guided his en- 
lightened friends into prosperity, happiness, content ? 
As he faced the setting sun, and its beams kissed the 
hoary locks of his honored old age, he entered upon 
his new adventure, fearless and unafraid, as he had 
worked on earth, as true and brave a hero as ever re- 
ceived the plaudits of his fellow men. 



CHAPTER XXIX 

THE OUTSPOKEN HERO OF THE PUBLIC SERVICE, 
J. W. POWELL 

MUCH is said and written about the veniality of 
men in high official positions, yet there are many 
heroes of truth and honor among them, and there is no 
doubt but that the great mass, both of the superior 
ofhcials and the rank and file, are honest, true and 
patriotic. Once in a while, however, public officials 
are brought face to face with large temptations, and, 
if there is promise of financial profit without fear of 
detection or any great loss of self-respect, there is 
reason to fear that too many yield their consciences 
and accept the emolument. To their honor, also, be 
it said with gladness, there are those to whom such 
temptations have no power. Such an one was Major 
John Wesley Powell, the organizer and director of those 
two great branches of the scientific work of our United 
States government, viz., the Geological Survey and the 
Bureau of American Ethnology. While Major Powell 
was not a Californian, he was essentially Western 
in his spirit and methods, and as this event transpired 
in California, and pertained as much to this State as 
almost any other, it seems appropriate that it should 
find place in this volume. 
To those of this and succeeding generations who are 



3IO HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

familiar with the gigantic irrigation schemes of the 
United States Reclamation Service, and the wonderful 
constructive work they have engineered and carried 
through, it will seem almost impossible to realize that 
it is only within a couple of decades that this marvelous 
reclamation work has been accomplished. 

The active propaganda of the benefits of irrigation 
had already been taken up, as elsewhere related in 
these pages, by Mr. William E. Smythe and others. 
These men were conscientiously working for a desirable 
end, and honestly seeking to improve the condition 
of the common man, but the land speculators were 
carefully watching their actions, and preparing to 
use their honest enthusiasm in innocently furthering 
plans by which they could financially profit in a most 
extravagant manner. Major Powell believed that 
these plans depended entirely upon blinding the peo- 
ple as a whole, and the national legislators espe- 
cially, to the available amount of water for irrigation 
purposes. Through extensive researches conducted 
under Major Powell by the experts of the United States 
Geological Survey, — men of trained observation and 
scientific deduction, — he had come to the conclusion 
that while immense areas of the arid lands could be 
reclaimed, there was only a certain amount of water, 
under any circumstances and after the most rigid con- 
servation, available for this purpose. He saw that 
immense tracts of land, in the aggregate amounting to 
hundreds of millions of acres, had already passed from 
the government into the hands of private (or cor- 
porate) parties, who, naturally, would wish to sell 



J. W. POWELL 311 

this land, when the time arrived, at as large a price 
as possible. He also saw that, with the limited available 
water supply, there was not enough water to irrigate 
these private lands and at the same time have water 
sufficient to irrigate the arid lands that still remained 
in the government'' s possession, and which, alone, were 
open to homesteading or other preemption by the 
common people for actual occupancy. 

He saw, therefore, that if the national government 
could be induced to spend millions upon millions of 
dollars for the building of immense dams, securing 
all the water and snow-fall of vast localities, instituting 
reservoir systems and conservation plans over immense 
areas, constructing hundreds of miles of canals and 
laterals for the supply and distribution of the life- 
giving fluid to the arid lands, and that if the great land 
speculators could then control this irrigation and con- 
servation work so that the water could be diverted 
upon their lands instead of upon the arid govern- 
ment lands, the former would be marvelously en- 
hanced in value, while the latter would be left in their 
original barren and almost valueless condition. 

Then, with prophetic eye, this servant of the people 
looked into the future. He saw, what these conscience- 
less speculators also saw, that the population of the 
United States was rapidly increasing and that in a 
comparatively short space of time hundreds of thou- 
sands of families of financially poor people would be 
seeking farms for homes. But while financially poor, 
he knew that the majority of these seekers were rich 
in energy, rich in industry, rich in morality, rich in all 



312 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the virtues that go to make up the very best parts of a 
great nation's citizenship. He therefore determined 
that if there were to be any conflict in this tremendous 
work of conservation and irrigation (which he clearly 
saw the government would be compelled soon to 
undertake and carry to a completion at a fabulous 
expenditure of money), he would ally himself on the 
side of the poorer, common people, rather than on 
the side of the land speculators who wished to fur- 
ther exploit the common people to their own enrich- 
ment. 

The plan of the speculators, as Major Powell under- 
stood it, was to allow the honest and enthusiastic 
conservationists and irrigationists to go ahead in their 
convention soon to assemble in Los Angeles and urge 
the government to carry out their plans, while they 
themselves stood aside until the work was well ad- 
vanced, then they intended to step in and assume control 
and so shape legislation that they could divert the water 
thus conserved, at the expense of the nation ^ to their 
own lands, and to their own vast enrichment. 

It appeared that their only hope to accomplish this 
was to silence Major Powell. They knew that the 
enthusiastic workers for irrigation were too honest to 
see their schemes, and not politicians enough to sus- 
pect anything, or circumvent them if they did, but they 
had had experience enough to know that Major Powell 
could not be hoodwinked or blinded. He was as keen- 
eyed to detect a political " job," as he was to grasp 
a scientific principle. They therefore determined that 
there was but one thing to do, and that was to bribe 



J. W. POWELL 313 

him. How should this be done and by whom? An 
open bribe they knew would be scorned. A mere sug- 
gestion that he cease his watchfulness would be tread- 
ing upon dangerous ground. They knew his honor, 
they knew his vigilance, and yet they thought they 
could " reach " him, as they had done many a public 
official before. Their offer would have to be a sugar- 
coated pill ; they would have to wrap the alluring sweet 
of sophistry around the bitter dose of bribery ere they 
couJd induce Major Powell to swallow it. Could they 
do it? They determined to try. They would offer 
him, at a low price, a share in a syndicate they had 
already organized, in order that they might have the ad- 
vice and counsel of his farseeing intellect. Then, once 
in the syndicate, they intended to prevail upon him, not 
openly to further their plans, but, not to do anything. 
He was simply not to do, to remain passive, to keep 
his hands off, and say nothing. They would shape 
matters as they desired them. His business was to see 
that all the available water supply of the United States 
was conserved. It was none of his business how those 
waters were used, or where they went to, upon whose 
lands they were conveyed. And they intimated that, 
just as soon as the work was begun, and legislation 
shaped their way, that they — the syndicate — -would 
— if he desired to convert his holdings into cash — 
repurchase his interests at a price that would net 
him over a million dollars. The one thing they feared, 
however, was that he would enlighten the world, and 
the legislators, upon this matter of water supply, and 
thus render the defeat of their schemes certain. They 



314 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

particularly wished him to be silent on this point at the 
national convention, and urged his absence. 

The offer was made, but in so careful and subtle a 
manner that even Major Powell's clear brain did not, 
at first, perceive the moral delinquency it implied on 
his part. Some of those nearest and dearest to him, 
to whom he communicated the offer, and his rising 
scruples and suspicions concerning it, ridiculed the 
latter and urged his immediate acceptance. Here was 
a life's competence; men of high position and who were 
regarded as models of integrity were making fortunes 
in less scrupulous ways; why should he be so particular ? 

Then, in telling me this story himself, — and Major 
Powell asserted at the time that his soul's battle had 
never before been revealed to a human soul, — he 
said: " I was tempted for a while to let the thing go. 
I wanted to do the best I could for my friends and 
family. I didn't want to be quixotic and tilt at a 
windmill. I didn't want to hamper my future work 
by making an army of such powerful enemies, but what 
was it my duty to God and the people to do ? My 
men were working up in the Sierra Santa Monica, 
some twenty miles from Los Angeles. I said to myself : 
' I'll go up there and leave these politicians to fight it 
out by themselves. I'll neither approve nor disapprove! ' 
I went, but that night I could not even go to bed, much 
less sleep. Conscience and brain alike were extra 
alert. Both were as clear as was the California sky 
above me, which made the stars seem close and so 
penetrating that I felt they were peering into my 
very soul, and their purity demanding a like purity 




JOHN W. POWELL. 



Page 309 





S t; 



J. W. POWELL 315 

of me. I got up and marched back and forth. The 
sweat poured from m}' face in the agony I suffered 
and I learned to believe that a man can sweat 
blood in his soul's struggles. But I could not 
stifle either my mind or my conscience. My duty 
was clear. I was not only the head of a great 
government department to do my scientific work and 
let others determine what the outcome of it should be, 
but I was there as the representative of the people, — 
the poor, the homeless, the struggling, the helpless, — 
who did not know, and could not know, and would be 
helpless even if they did know, — of the assault that 
was being made upon the land, which, in reality, 
should be theirs. I could not stand it any longer. 
Without breakfast, or a word to my men, I hurried down 
to Los Angeles, and kept the appointment that had been 
made me, — to speak on this subject at a certain hour. 
Those who had approached me fully expected me to 
avoid the dangerous line of thought I had suggested. 
But — you know all the rest." 

I was present and heard his address, and I heard 
and saw the hubbub and uproar that followed. The 
good men and true of the convention did not believe 
his statements — and the conspirators knew they 
would not — so even the honest and unbribable ele- 
ments of the convention (which were in a large majority) 
innocently joined the scheming minority in their con- 
demnation. They shouted and stormed and even sought 
to prevent his continuing his address; for a time it 
seemed as if the convention had become a howling 
mob, showing by face, gesture, action and word their 



3i6 HEROES OE CALIEORNIA 

desire to down the one-armed man, who, now thai his 
own battle of soul was fought and won, stood calmly 
and indifferently facing them, as long before he had 
faced the armies of the South, and the dangers of the 
unknown Grand Canyon. In vain the chairman bat- 
tered with his gavel. For a long time uproar reigned, 
but finally he was allowed to proceed, and he said his 
say. During the remainder of the convention he was 
openly and covertly attacked. His ideas were denied 
and ridiculed. To this day there are some members who 
honestly believe that his ideas were wrong. Be that 
as it may Major Powell firmly believed them; so much 
so that he deliberately threw away the equivalent of a 
million dollars in defence of them. His expose blocked 
the plans of the schemers. They were silenced, at 
least for the time. The principles laid down by Major 
Powell have been carried out, in the main, and, what- 
ever the future has in store, he kept his soul pure. 
His active work on earth is ended, and he, brave war- 
rior for the highest morality in public life, has gone to 
his reward in the wonderful advancement that all 
souls receive when thev are victors in life's conflicts. 



CHAPTER XXX 

THE PRACTICAL HERO OF INVENTION, ANDREW SMITH 
HALLIDIE 

/^NE of the essential features of the California spirit 
^^ is the ability to think for oneself, to refuse to be 
held by the thoughts and methods of the past, to meet 
new problems in new ways. This spirit was well exem- 
plified by the way A. S. Hallidie, of San Francisco, 
grappled with the transportation problem. The city 
of the Golden Gate is a very hilly city, and yet some 
of the finest building sites are on the steep slopes or 
summits of these hills. Even to-day, when millions of 
dollars have been spent in cutting and paving streets 
on these hills, it would be almost an impossibility to use 
many of the best sites if there were no cheap and easy 
means of public transportation. The ordinary horse- 
car could never have scaled these steep grades, and 
even had horses been found capable of ascending them, 
it is doubtful whether passengers could have been found 
brave enough to risk their lives in making the descent. 
Something had to be invented to meet the necessity, for, 
as yet, the powers of electricity were not applied to the 
street-car as they are to-day. At this juncture Mr. 
Andrew Smith Hallidie turned his inventive energies 
to the problem, and those who knew him realized that 
it was as good as settled, for both he and his father were 
natural inventors, and both were interested in the solving 



3i8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

of just such problems. As early as 1835 his father had 
patented his invention of making ropes and cables 
from iron and steel wire, and in 1855, when Andrew 
himself was but nineteen years old, he had shown his 
own power by designing and constructing an aque- 
duct, suspended on a wire, with a span of two hundred 
and twenty feet, across the middle fork of the American 
River. In the mines there was a growing demand 
for wire rope, and Andrew determined to supply it. 
In June, 1856, he extemporized hand machinery for 
making wire rope, and produced the first wire cable 
made on the Pacific Coast. The following year he es- 
tablished a manufactory for wire ropes in San Fran- 
cisco. 

Then, for several years, he built wire suspension 
bridges, as well as made cables for use in the mines, — 
where it was found far more reliable than ordinary rope 
to haul up the cars loaded with ore and miners from the 
depths. In 1867 he took out a patent for a rigid sus- 
pension bridge, and the same year invented and put 
into use another contrivance for conveying freight over 
a mountainous country by means of an overhead con- 
tinuous wire rope. This was soon known as the " Hal- 
lidie Rope- way," and is largely in use throughout the 
country. By its means timbers, fuel, tools, provisions 
and all kinds of supplies are transported to the mines, 
and in the returning cages or buckets ore is sent to the 
mill. Mr. Hallidie's genius had many problems to 
solve in making this rope- way the complete and satis- 
factory thing it is to-day, one of the chief of which was 
the grip pulley. By means of this pulley, — which, 



ANDREW SMITH HALLIDIE 319 

as its name implies, grips the cable, — power is ap- 
plied to move the cable, and then, if its speed becomes 
too great, the same power becomes a brake to restrain 
it. Another important feature is the gearing, which 
allows the heavy loads of ore descending to pull up the 
supplies, etc., ascending, in this way utilizing all the 
natural power possible. 

One of the longest rope-ways in use is four miles 
long, between stations two miles apart. At Mineral 
King the stations are six thousand feet apart, and the 
mine is one thousand nine hundred feet above the mill. 
In one place the span is seven hundred feet between 
posts, and the cable crosses a canyon six hundred feet 
above the bottom. 

While thus busy constructing these rope- ways, Mr. 
Hallidie was daily seeing the need of improved street 
railway transportation in San Francisco. Horse-cars 
were in use up some of the lesser inclines, and almost 
daily his heart was wrenched by witnessing the painful 
efforts of the struggling horses to drag their loaded cars 
up these hills. Accidents happened with alarming 
frequency, for sometimes the horses would lose their 
footing and the brakes being unable to hold the load, 
the cars would either rush forward upon them, or drag 
them back as their weight took them to the foot of the 
hill. But an endless cable, carrying moving cages of 
rock, in the country, was an entirely different thing from 
an endless cable, carrying moving cars, filled with 
human passengers, suspended in the streets of a city 
The feature of suspension must be eliminated, and the 
principle of the endless wire cable applied to a railway 



320 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

on the street level. It was in 187 1 that the idea was 
clear to Mr. Hallidie how it might be done. A model 
was made and patented. Then came the long, tedious, 
and often disheartening time spent in experimenting 
and perfecting his invention. Three capitalists in San 
Francisco generously came forward and supplied the 
needed funds for the purpose, by subscribing twenty- 
two thousand dollars each, and in two years' time, a 
cable was successfully laid in an underground conduit, 
propelled by powerful machinery at a fLxed station, and 
street cars moved by it. This was the Clay Street Gable 
Railroad. The grips are quite common now, but they 
required many months of trying experiment before they 
were perfected. It is no light strain to have a grip 
attached to a street-car, heavily loaded with passengers, 
even on a level track, much less up a steep incline, 
suddenly seize a moving cable, fasten on to it, and thus 
overcome the inertia and take the car along. Grips 
used to break and cables wear out with alarming 
rapidity before the present method was adopted. On 
August I, 1873, the Clay Street Railway was set in 
successful operation, and at once demonstrated a 
success. The Hallidie method became known and was 
used throughout the world. It worked a complete 
revolution in street-car service, and indeed was the 
most important of all inventions applied to street 
transportation until the electric car came upon the 
scene. 

When Professor Lowe constructed the Mount Lowe 
Railway, the question arose as to how the steep sixty- 
two per cent, grade of the incline should be overcome. 



ANDREW SMITH HALLIDIE 321 

Here Mr. Hallidie's genius, combined with that of Pro- 
fessor Lowe, designed the balanced cars on the endless 
cable and the grip sheave, with its seventy jaws, each of 
which automatically seizes the cable as it revolves. 
The result is a perfectly successful and safe device 
which has now been in operation, without the faintest 
suggestion of an accident, since 1893. The operation 
of this cable incline is entirely different from that of 
a cable street railway. In the latter the cable is gripped 
from the car, and the movement of the car depends 
upon the security of the grip's hold upon the cable. 
On the Mount Lowe incline, on the other hand, the 
cable and the car are built together, — the one firmly 
fastened to the other; the machinery above merely 
moves the cable, the latter taking the two cars along 
as it moves. 

As Mr. Hallidie's invention w^as designed to meet 
peculiar California necessities, and it is in most suc- 
cessful operation, with a variety of local adaptations, 
in the State, I have thus preferred to take and use it 
as an example of inventive skill used for the benefit 
of the people, rather than some other and more general 
application of inventive power. 



CHAPTER XXXI 

THE INTREPID HEROES OF A GENTLE SCIENCE, JOHN 
GILL LEMMON AND SARA PLUMMER LEMMON 

A T first thought, there might not appear anything 
■^^ of the heroic about the hfe and work of any 
botanist. How can a mere gatherer of flowers be a 
hero ? 

Yet one has but to read the Ufe and work of such 
men as Fremont (who did not despise his work as a 
botanist), Douglas, who early studied California's 
trees and flowers and after a most heroic life died tragi- 
cally in the Hawaiian Islands, John Muir, whose 
studies of the trees and flowers of the high Sierras 
often led him into great danger, and many others, to 
realize that even in the mere gathering of plants there 
may be a high purpose which can be carried out only 
by a truly heroic soul. 

Such heroes undoubtedly were John Gill Lemmon 
and his noble wife, formerly Miss Sara A. Plummer, 
whose herbarium in Oakland, California, has long 
been the Mecca of visiting botanists from all parts of the 
globe. 

Professor John Gill Lemmon first saw the light of 
day in a large, comfortable log cabin in the forest- 
bordered wilds of Lima, Michigan, January 2, 1832, 
and was carefully reared by wise parents. In time he 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 323 

was sent to the best public and private schools, then 
to the Michigan State Normal School, from whence, 
well equipped for his work as a teacher, he went forth, 
soon, however, to be made superintendent of schools. 
His ambition not yet being satisfied, he entered 
the State University of Michigan, but before gradu- 
ation, stirred by the deeply patriotic impulse of 
a true-hearted man, he dropped pen and books 
and volunteered for three years or as long as 
the strife should last. He entered the Fourth 
Michigan Cavalry June 8, 1862, and served with 
honor in thirty-six engagements in Kentucky, 
Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia, until captured, 
August 26, 1864. He was thrust into Andersonville 
and Florence prison-pens and kept there during the 
last sLx months of the war, and w^as one of the hundred 
and thirty-five who could stand alone, out of the five 
thousand prisoners, when release came. But he was 
almost a physical wreck, and his mother, with her 
family, brought him to California in 1865, with the 
mournful expectation of merely making his few last 
days as peaceful and comfortable as possible. His 
home was made in a little cottage in Sierra Valley, and 
here he slowdy began to revive to an interest in the 
things of this life. 

One day, as he lay in the shadow of his cottage, 
scarcely able to move, he saw in the near distance an 
odd little clover. Not all his strenuous experiences in the 
war, and the cruel hardships of his prison life had been 
able to kill his love for the amiable science of botany, 
and the sight of this quaint and strange clover aroused 



324 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

afresh in his soul all his interest. Slowly he rolled 
over and crept towards the strange flower. He gathered 
it with a quickly beating heart, for he had never seen 
just such a clover before. Near by were other strange 
flowers, and his delighted eyes feasted upon them 
as he eagerly gathered them and returned to his 
cot. Then he plucked up strength and courage 
enough to write to good Asa Gray, the great Har- 
vard botanist, who wrote back : " You have discovered 
seven new plants — new to science. Good ! Send some 
more! " 

This letter was like new wine to the worn out 
man. His soul revived under the stimulus of the 
kindly encouragement. In time he enlarged the 
scope of his daily walks, and soon was able 
to go out for a whole day's ramble. He found 
enough new specimens to keep him constantly inter- 
ested, and his collection of California flora rapidly 
grew in size and importance. Scarcely a month passed 
without his contribution of some valuable addition 
to the knowledge of the Eastern and European botan- 
ists in regard to the flora of the Golden State. 

Though never again to be the strong man that, in 
the full glory of youth, had taken up arms for the good 
of his beloved country, he recuperated sufflciently to 
feel that he had a life's work ahead of him. He began 
systematically to explore, not only California, but the 
adjoining states and territories, from Alaska down 
to Old Mexico, and as far east as the western base of the 
Rocky Mountains. 

It was on one of these explorations, nearly twenty- 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 325 

five years ago, that I first met him, and was immediately 
attracted by his lovable, gentle nature. How fascinat- 
ing were the stories of his experiences : climbing snowy 
mountains, dodging hostile Indians, camping with 
friendly ones, sliding down canyon precipices where 
only the mountain goat had hitherto trailed, sleeping 
beneath the giant redwoods and sequoias, scorched on 
the alkali flats of the below-sea-level areas of our west- 
ern deserts. Pathos and comedy, tragedy and humor 
rubbed elbows with each other during those years of 
happy labor, made sweeter and more precious by the 
companionship and dear comradeship of his wife. It 
was the love of botany and nature science that brought 
these two spirits together, and they were married in 
Oakland in 1880, after an acquaintance of four years, 
during which they were fellow members of a botanical 
club in Santa Barbara, organized by Mr. Lemmon. 

Henceforth these two traveled together. Their 
wedding journey was into the wilds of Arizona and New 
Mexico, and the habit once formed was kept up through 
life. Year after year they went, with their ponies, or 
wagon, or burros, happy in themselves and in their 
w^ork. 

Nothing in the floral line escaped their eager search : 
cactuses of a hundred varieties, yuccas by the score, 
the tiny creeping gilias, and the giant suaharos and 
sequoias, trailing seaweeds, floating lilies, and the 
shrinking orchids of the dense forests where sunlight 
seldom enters. Year after year added to their store 
of plants and knowledge. These botanists lived with 
the objects of their study; they watched them grow 



326 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

from seed, slip or bud, and visited them again and 
again in their wild, almost inaccessible natural habitats, 
until they were able to speak of them with authority. 
Every new trip gave them new triumphs for their 
flower-presses laden wdth new species of plants. Each 
of them, husband and wife, has had the highest honor 
accorded them that can befall botanists, viz., the 
dedication of a new genus of plants to them. These 
are known throughout the world as the Lemmonia and 
Plummera. For more than a quarter of a century Mrs. 
Lemmon took her water colors and sketch pad along 
and made field sketches, in color, of the plants in their 
native haunts. 

In the year 1881 Arizona was not the peaceable, 
quiet, hospitable country it now is. In those days 
Apache raids and massacres were frequent. Even the 
most hardened Indian campaigner knew that an order 
to advance into the Apache country meant no tender- 
foot's picnic, and yet, in this year, this gentle-hearted 
student of the plants, accompanied by his wdfe, urged 
only by the desire to hunt down the so-called " Irish " 
potato in its native habitat, hitched up the team to their 
camping wagon, and aimed right for the Indian region. 
Two years previously Colonel Charles D. Poston had 
assured them that he was confident wild potatoes could 
be found in Southern Arizona. With eager zeal Pro- 
fessor Lemmon and his wife had searched for two 
seasons, but in vain, and now they were going to try 
again. They arrived at Fort Bowie, in the famous 
Apache Pass, just after the summer rains had brought 
forth a most abundant and interesting flora, but their 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 327 

hearts were bent on finding potatoes, so they pushed 
forward into the Chiracahua Mountains, where one 
of the most feared bands of Apaches had long had its 
stronghold. When every one else was fleeing the 
country, these scientists boldly went, with sublime 
unconsciousness, where all expected they would meet 
their death. Instead of that they found what they had 
so eagerly been seeking — the wild potato. But here 
let Professor Lemmon tell the story himself. 

" One day in September, while searching for ferns 
in the clefts of one of the highest peaks north of the 
Pass, there was discovered, under a tangle of prickly 
bushes and cacti, a solitary little plant perceived at 
first glance to be a Solanum; but query: Was it bulb- 
bearing? Carefully the little stranger was uprooted, 
when lo, a tuber! an undoubted representative of the 
true potato family. 

" The plant proved to be a specimen of Solanum 
Jamesii, of Torrey. Great was my disappointment 
when, after diligent search day after day in that lo- 
cality of various features of plain, canyon, and peak, 
not another plant was to be detected. Time and again 
the little scrap of a plant was examined, but it was so 
meagre and dejected by age that it had but few char- 
acteristics which reminded one of the rank potato vines 
of our gardens. With great care and kindling interest 
I dissected its organs and compared its characters with 
the meagre descriptions at hand. How much more 
my emotions would have been aroused, had I then 
knovni that it was probable that from this very species, 
rather than from any other of the thirty-six known, our 



328 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

first potatoes sprung, according to the researches and 
reasonings of Humboldt. 

" We were prevented from making a thorough ex- 
ploration of the southern portion of the Chiracahuas 
— to which we removed in September — by the rumors 
that reached us day by day of Indian outrages in the 
mountains to the north of us; culminating at last in 
the startling intelligence brought us by a friendly 
cowboy, who rode all night to warn us, that Juh and 
his whole band of Chiracahua Apaches had broken 
out of the San Carlos Reservation at four o'clock the 
morning before, and were fleeing directly towards 
their old haunts, the very valley in which we were 
peacefully botanizing. 

" We took refuge in the cabin of a queer old hermit, 
Dr. Monroe, who had been there for four years, and 
who had prepared for such emergencies by digging a 
tunnel one hundred and twenty feet long through the 
sharp point of a long ridge projecting into the valley 
between two creeks. Midway of the ridge the tunnel 
was constructed with a double elbow, enlarged to 
eight feet by ten, and six feet high, to which one could 
retreat with his supplies and weapons, and could shoot 
out towards either end of the tunnel at his foes in the 
light, while himself shrouded in the darkness by the 
elbow. In case of overpowering numbers, he could 
light a fuse leading to a magazine concealed in the 
cobbles at each end of the tunnel, which, when ignited, 
must blow everything to atoms in the vicinity. 

" The mouths of the tunnel, opening out on the sides 
of the ridge, were each artfully concealed by a cabin 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 329 

made of shakes and brush, one of which was generously 
assigned to us. While we were there for eleven days, 
in momentary expectation of attack, Juh and his band, 
split up into squads of half a dozen to fifty warriors, 
scoured the country, torturing and killing all the whites 
in their path. 

" One large band passed along by the mouth of 
Rucker Valley, and no one knows why they did not 
ascend to their familiar haunts, as there was not the 
slightest obstacle to such a course, although the full- 
garrisoned Fort Bowie was but forty miles away, and 
the Apaches passed near it on the way; followed, to 
be sure, two days later, by two companies of well- 
mounted cavalry, majestically marching along by twos, 
accompanied with baggage wagons and other com- 
fortable military equipage. 

" In October we returned to Oakland to pass the 
winter in closet-work over our varied treasures from 
Arizona. Last May (1882) we again joyfully prepared 
our simple outfit for an extended exploration of the 
other mountains of Southern Arizona, determined 
that we would find more of that wild potato if it took all 
summer — and it did." 

Professor Lemmon then recounts the long and ardu- 
ous search for the potato. After being duly settled in a 
tent at Fort Huachuca, kindly provided by the com- 
manding officer: 

" Every third day, equipped with flower press, 
pick, and luncheon, I climbed slowly and wearily, as 
perforce I must, over one ridge after another, and up 
to spur upon spur of the high peaks; hastily culling 



330 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the rare flowers and ferns by the way, and putting 
them, carefully displayed, into the portable press; 
taking note of habitat and peculiarities to be recorded 
on return. Generally the unseen peril of rattlesnakes 
and centipedes, together with the open attacks of cacti 
and yucca, were added to the intense heat of the sun, 
jeopardizing life and limb. The level rays of sunset 
usually found me at the top of a mountain ten to twenty 
miles from camp. Fortunately the declivity favored 
the return trip. You slid perhaps for rods at a plunge, 
down with splintered shales and volcanic cinders, knee- 
deep, to a bush-covered landing, where you must pass 
along the side of the mountain until another shat- 
tered vertical ledge of slate or trachyte is reached. 
When the moon favored, late returns by her lovely aid 
were always calculated upon. 

" Whenever Mrs. Lemmon could not accompany 
me on these extra laborious trips, she was busily 
occupied in making paintings of the flowers in the 
vicinity of the camp, or in changing dryers within the 
many packages of plants collected on previous explora- 
tions. 

" Sometimes we took long journeys on our horses, 
going round the bases of dividing ridges between 
canyons, or climbing by perilous zigzag trails over 
them. From the highest points, the peculiar features 
of a flat, desert country, interspersed with island 
mountains dancing in a heated atmosphere, bounded 
our horizon. 

" These long trips occupied from three to five days' 
time, and often included the circuit of half the range; 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 331 

at times we passed across the Mexican boundary at the 
risk of being deprived of our animals by Mexican 
officials, little better than Italian bandits; or worse, 
being cut off altogether by Apaches, several tribes of 
whom were again on the war-path under the notorious 
chieftain, Juh, still at large. During one of these trips 
we passed over the locality where recent massacres 
had occurred; and, as appeared afterward, while on 
one of the high southern ridges, near Cave Canyon, 
an Apache massacre was being perpetrated upon two 
Americans and three Mexicans, only five miles below 
us — a fate which we narrowly escaped by happening 
to choose the upper trail." 

But heat, cacti, yucca, rattlesnakes, Gila monsters, 
Mexican bandits, and the criminals of the United States 
and Mexico who plied their nefarious business on both 
sides of the border, and Apaches combined could not 
restrain the search or dampen the ardor of these two 
devoted servants of science, and finally their efforts 
were triumphantly rewarded. Three species were 
found, the last of which required longer search than 
the others: 

" The third kind of wild potato of Arizona was not 
so easily found. It was only after a long day's climb 
... that I reached the summit of the highest peak 
of the Huachuca, a little over ten thousand feet alti- 
tude. This peak is steep and rugged, besides being 
beset with a dense clothing of thorny bushes covering 
most of its surface. In the shade of the north side 
a spire of timber, sharply defined at the sides, ascends 
to the very top. Here, in this very highest point, under 



332 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the shade of fir, pine, and poplar trees, kept moist by 
mehing banks of snow for a great part of the year, 
were found several plants of this little species. 
Widely scattered among the rank herbage, they were 
bravely lifting their mostly simple and nearly orbicular 
leaves and nodding balls of seed from under the golden- 
rods and brilliant asters." 

Every reader of these pages should finish the whole 
story, which well might be termed " The Romance of 
the Irish Potato." It may be found in The Overland 
Monthly, for April and May, 1883, and is well worthy 
a place among the true classics of California literature. 

A later Overland — that of September, 1888 — con- 
tains an exquisitely written, graphic and vivid descrip- 
tion of the San Francisco Moimtains, near Flagstaff, 
Arizona, and of a visit Professor and Mrs. Lermnon 
paid to the Grand Canyon, by way of Peach Springs 
and Diamond Creek, a route now almost forgotten 
since the railway to El Tovar was built. They aimed 
to reach the height of Agassiz, the extinct volcano that 
forms the highest peak of this beautifully chiseled 
mountain-range. 

" On the way our noiseless vehicle allowed us often 
to approach quite near herds of graceful antelope 
feeding in the secluded parks, before their watchful 
sentinels, stamping the earth with heavy strokes, started 
the herds off with long bounds. 

" The peak, nearly devoid of timber for its upper 
three thousand feet, was furrowed by several ravines 
yet partially filled with snow, and their dazzling white- 
ness, lit up by the declining sun as we approached, 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 333 

contrasted very effectively with the variegated tints 
of red, yellow, brown, and black scoriae displayed in 
stripes and blocks on the bare projecting ribs; while 
beneath all the supporting meadow of rich grasses held 
up long reaches to the very banks of melting snow. 

*' We pitched our tent for the night near the spring 
and cabin of a sheep-herder. Next morning we were 
occupied till late, as usual after a day's travel in such 
a rich botanical region, in drying out the botanical pads; 
several of the plants, too, were strangers and tempted 
examination, so it was ten o'clock before we got off for 
the peak. 

" The first three or four miles being a gradual rise 
covered with grass, we decided to drive the wagon up to 
a convenient spot near the snow and picket the mules 
for the day, while we prosecuted the further ascent on 
foot, — designing to return and make camp at that 
point for the night and go on eastward next day. 

" But no water could be found for the mules. In 
vain we searched an hour among the ravines; the 
water from the melting banks sank at once into the 
scoriae and volcanic ashes; so we were forced either 
to abandon the trip altogether, or to hasten up, leaving 
the animals securely tied to suffer a little for water 
until our return, when we would hurry down to the 
herder's spring. 

" We chose to make the ascent,' — in fact the nearness 
and detail of the monster cone piercing the sky a mile 
or so above us was simply irresistible." 

Then follows a graphic description of the ascent 
and the view from the summit. Professor Lemmon 



334 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

here seems to have been inspired. His prose-poems 
can only be compared to those equally inspired pro- 
ductions of the poet-geologist, Clarence Button, written 
on the brink of the Grand Canyon at Point Sublime. 
A touch of solid prose, however, ends the poetic 
rhapsody. Here it is: 

"Is it any wonder that we did not leave the spot 
until the scene-shifter shut off the light ? Ah ! but that 
was almost a fatal delay for us. 

" Hastening down the steep by long strides and 
slides in the loose scoriae, we found our animals pull- 
ing at their ropes in great fright. No doubt a brown 
bear — somewhat plentiful in the region — had visited 
our camp, and of all wild beasts a bear will give most 
alarm to a mule. Hurriedly attaching the mules to the 
wagon, w^e mounted, put on the brakes, and began the 
descent towards the light in the herder's camp. 

" But in the darkness the large boulders and blocks 
of scoriae, large as modern stove-ranges, that were 
easily seen and avoided on the up-trip, were unseen 
now, and the way seemed full of them. The mules, 
tleeing from a frightful spot, refused to obey the curb- 
reins, though I drew upon them with all my strength. 

" Over the obstacles we bounded; now this side of 
the vehicle w^as elevated nearly to the point of over- 
turning, now the other. My wife threw herself into 
the bottom of the wagon, and resigned herself silently 
to her fate; while I wrapped the lines about my hands, 
pressed the brake-bar hard down, and steered the 
frightened animals, now at full speed, directly down 
the steep. As the mules flew along, the little wagon 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 335 

seemed to be almost upon their backs; the wheels 
hitting only the tops of the rocks, and veering from 
side to side as the mules dodged the larger boulders. 

" By the most marvelous series of accidents the 
occupants of that little wagon escaped, for a few min- 
utes of this breakneck speeding brought them safely 
to the camp of the frightened herder, who held his 
lantern up to their blanched faces, but could only 
wring from them the exultant explanation of the clat- 
tering sound, that they had been to the top of the peak 
and had looked over into the Grand Canyon." 

An adventure of quite a different character befell 
Professor and Mrs. Lemmon on one of their earlier 
visits to the Canyon. They reached " Peach Spring at 
two o'clock in the night, and experienced a reception 
characteristic of new railroad towns of the period. We 
were conducted by a brakeman to Farley's tent, the 
only habitation known as a hotel in the town, and were 
quartered in a portion of it curtained off by cheap 
calico. 

" Scarcely had we lost consciousness, when pistol 
shots were heard, and a loud, querulous female voice 
outside announced that two gamblers in an adjoining 
saloon had been quarreling, and that ' Jem Smith 
was shot full of holes.' 

*' Some of the bullets passed through and over our 
tent, causing us to lie awake shivering until daylight, 
while thinking of the then unrealized safety we en- 
joyed when in the hermit's tunnel of the Chiracahua, 
and the miner's stone cabin of the Huachuca." 

After twenty years of such arduous and yet delightful 



336 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

explorations, Professor Lemmon was appointed botan- 
ist by the California Board of Forestry, and his wife was 
made botanic artist. This gave them a great oppor- 
tunity to do pioneer work in California in such a way 
as to give a strong impetus to the study of forestry. Their 
work was so excellent that the Department of Botany, 
at Washington, D. C, in one of the Annual Reports, 
states that the written results of Professor Lemmon's 
labors and the illustrations which accompanied them 
were by far the best that had ever been recorded. 

Indeed, it may safely be affirmed that this pair of 
pioneer botanists were the first forestry conservationists 
of the State, for as early as 1882 they fought for the 
preservation of our noble forests. In 1 886-1 889 the 
State published their reports, in which the conservation 
of the forests is urgently insisted upon ; and later, at their 
own expense, they issued books and pamphlets, illus- 
trative of the subject, educative and informing in the 
highest degree. In those days only the very few in the 
land saw the dangers that are now so well understood, 
and only here and there, like voices crying in the wilder- 
ness, could those be found with courage and persistence 
to protest against the destruction of our never-to-be- 
replaced forests for mere commercialism. 

Mrs. Lemmon was as earnest and energetic as her 
husband. For three years she was Chairman of the 
Forestry Committee of the California Federation of 
Women's Clubs, and with pen and voice never ceased 
pleading for the noble trees she loved so well. One of 
her pleas was an eight-page brochure, Some Hints on 
Forestry, and this was followed by a seventy-page 



J. G. AND SARA P. LEMMON 337 

booklet, with many illustrations, entitled How to tell 
the Trees, in which her husband wTOte an admirable 
chapter on the grand forest endowment God had be- 
stowed upon California. 

Thus, hand in hand, shoulder to shoulder, these 
sweet-spirited, amiable, and devoted heroes have lived 
and worked, quietly benefiting a people, many of whom 
were never even aware of their existence. In November, 
1908, the beckoning fmger called Professor Lemmon to 
new and better fields of labor, leaving his loving com- 
rade to issue the book upon which his latest energies 
were spent, — a work describing and fully illustrating 
all the native trees of California, — a fitting and appro- 
priate closing chapter in memory of the flowering 
pathways they trod together for fully thirty years. 



CHAPTER XXXII 

THE STUDIOUS HERO OF THE MOUNTAINS, 
JOHN MUIR 

IN an earlier chapter has been given the story of 
Clarence King's mountaineering and the heroism 
of his endeavors. Soon after the time that Clarence 
King did the work there recorded, a young man, whose 
name was to be even more inseparably connected with 
the mountains of California, was working his way from 
Madison, Wisconsin, through the South towards the 
Pacific Coast, though when he started he had no inten- 
tion to make that the end of his journey. His name was 
John Muir, — a well-known Scotch name, but as yet 
almost unknown in American annals. Now, by the life 
and work of this one man, the name of Muir is known 
throughout the world. 

Rightly to understand and appreciate this life, one 
should read an article in The Outlook, of June 6, 1903, 
in which Ray Stannard Baker shows how the lad 
Muir prepared himself unconsciously and unknow- 
ingly for the work of the man Muir. It is a wonderful 
example of that self- discipline I have endeavored 
to inculcate in the chapter on Junipero Serra. Here 
are a few quotations to show the spirit of the lad; 

" This one of the boys of the Muir family was am- 
bitious, often taking his mathematical problems with 



JOHN MUIR 339 

him to the fields and working them out on chips from 
the trees that he felled; and though he knew that his 
father's rules were like those of the Medes and Per- 
sians, never changeable, and that he could not hope 
for more time to read in the evening, he was finally 
told that he might get up as early as he liked in the 
morning. Though accustomed to sleep ten hours every 
night, he now broke off sharply to live hours by sheer 
force of will. 

" ' It was winter,' he said; ' a boy sleeps soundly 
after chopping and fence-building all day in frosty air 
and snow; therefore I feared I would not be able to 
take any advantage of the granted permission. For 
I was always asleep at six o'clock when father called, 
the early-rising machine was not then made, and there 
was no one to awake me. Going to bed wondering 
whether I could compel myself to awake before the 
regular hour and determined to try, I was delighted 
next morning to find myself early called by will, the 
power of which over sleep I then for the first time 
discovered. Throwing myself out of bed and lighting a 
candle, eager to learn how^ much time had been gained, 
I found it was only one o'clock, leaving five hours all 
my own before the work of the farm begun. At this 
same hour, all winter long, my will, like a good angel, 
awoke me, and never did time seem more gloriously 
precious and rich. Fire was not allowed, so to escape 
the frost I went down cellar, and there read some 
favorite book or marked out some invention that 
haunted me.' 

" John Muir's career may be said to have had its 



340 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

beginning on the day that he set forth, a raw country 
boy, to conquer the world, hope in his heart and an 
odd bundle of whittled wooden machinery on his 
shoulder. He had made a thermometer out of the 
end rod of his father's wagon, so fastening it to the side 
of the house that the expansion of the iron in varying 
degrees of heat was indicated on a large dial. He had 
invented and built an automatic saw-mill, and several 
wooden clocks, one of them in the form of a scythe 
hung on a burr-oak sapling, representing the scythe 
of old Father Time — a good timekeeper, indicating 
the days of the week and month, and having at- 
tachments for other inventions — for lighting fires and 
lamps, a bedstead that set the sleeper on his feet at 
any desired time, and so on. He had also invented an 
automatic arrangement for feeding horses, a bathing- 
machine, barometer, pyrometer, hydrometer, safety 
locks, etc., all original, even the clocks, he never at 
that time having seen the works of any sort of time- 
keeper." 

In i860 his neighbors prevailed upon him to exhibit 
his wonderful inventions at the Wisconsin State Fair, 
to be held at Madison. Since he had come to the farm 
from Scotland (when he was eleven years old) he had 
never been more than six miles from home and had not 
ridden on a railway, yet a glimpse at his sackful of 
machinery so interested both conductor and en- 
gineer that they allowed him to ride on the engine. 
When he reached Madison the superintendent of the 
Fair was " only too pleased at the prospect of exhibiting 
his marvels, and they soon occupied a prominent 



JOHN MUIR 341 

place in the fine- arts hall, where Muir, too shy to pose 
as the inventor, mingled with the crowd and heard 
the admiring comments of the spectators. Though 
suddenly finding himself a celebrity, he refused, 
quaintly enough, to read the accounts of his inven- 
tions which appeared in the newspapers, for his 
father had always warned him of the deadly poison of 
praise." 

" For four years he was a student (at the State 
University), supporting himself largely by working in 
the harvest-fields, by teaching school, and doing all 
manner of odd jobs." 

" It is related that where he once taught school he 
fitted up a machine which lighted the fire for him every 
morning, so that he did not have to reach the school- 
house so early." 

Thus he was unconsciously preparing himself to 
begin his real life work. Through what battlings and 
strugglings a man attains. In 1866, when he was 
twenty-seven years old, he writes: 

" I have been keeping up an irregular course of 
study since leaving Madison but with no great success. 
... A lifetime is so little a time that we die ere we get 
ready to live. I would like to go to college, but then 
I have to say to myself ' you will die ere you can do 
anything else.' I should like to invent useful machin- 
ery, but it comes ' you do not wish to spend your life- 
time among machines and you will die ere you can do 
anything else.' I should like to study medicine that I 
might do my part in lessening human misery, but again 
it comes ' you will die ere you are ready, or able to do 



342 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

so.' How intensely I desire to be a Humboldt, but 
again the chilling answer is reiterated. But could we 
but live a million of years then how delightful to spend 
in perfect contentment so many thousand years in 
quiet study in college, so many amid the grateful din 
of machines, so many among human pain, so many 
thousands in the sweet study of Nature among the 
dingles and dells of Scotland, and all the other less 
important parts of our world. Then perhaps might 
we, with at least a show of reason, shuffle off this mortal 
coil and look back upon our star with something of 
satisfaction. ... In our higher state of existence we 
shall have time and intellect for study. Eternity with 
perhaps the whole unlimited creation of God as our 
field should satisfy us, and make us patient and trust- 
ful, while we pray with the Psalmist: ' So teach us to 
number our days that we may apply our hearts unto 
wisdom.' . . . What you say respecting the littleness of 
the number who are called to * the pure and deep com- 
munion of the beautiful all-loving Nature ' is particu- 
larly true of the hard-working people with whom I now 
dwell — in vain is the glorious chart of God in nature 
spread out for them. ' So many acres chopped ' is their 
motto, so they grub away amid the smoke of magnifi- 
cent forest trees black as demons and material as the 
soil they move upon. ... In my long rambles last 
summer I did not find a single person who knew any- 
thing of botany, and but a few who knew the meaning of 
the word; and wherein lay the charm that could con- 
duct a man who might as well be gathering mammon, 
so many miles through these fastnesses to suffer hunger 



JOHN MUIR 343 

and exhaustion was with them never to be discovered. 
. . . That ' sweet day ' did, as you wished, reach our 
hollow, and another is with us now. The sky has 
the haze of autumn and excepting the aspen not a tree 
has motion. Upon our enclosing wall of verdure new 
tints appear. The gorgeous dyes of autumn are too 
plainly seen, and the forest seems to have found out 
that again its leaf must fade. Our stream too has a less 
cheerful sound and, as it bears its foam-bells pen- 
sively away from the shallow rapids in the rocks, seems 
to feel that summer is past." 

Let us now go back to the earlier portion of this letter 
and reread it. Here are four distinct aims that moved 
Muir's soul at this time. Study of nature, machinery, 
the healing work of the physician and to be a Humboldt. 
He bitterly regretted the shortness of human life that he 
could not take up and master all four departments. 
An accident soon after this date for the time being 
injured his eyesight so severely that he feared he had 
lost sight in his right eye for ever. Here is what he 
wTOte at the time. His letter is dated April 3, 1867. 
" I felt neither pain nor faintness, the thought was so 
tremendous that my right eye was gone, that I should 
never look at a flower again. The sunshine and the 
winds are working in all the gardens of God, but I, I 
am lost. I am shut in darkness." 

Three days later he writes: " I believe you that 
* nothing is without meaning and purpose that comes 
from a Father's hand,' but during these dark weeks 
I could not feel this, and as for courage and fortitude, 
scarce the shadows of these virtues were left me. The 



344 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

shock upon my nervous system made me weak in mind 
as a child." 

Little by little his sight began to return and on June 
gth he writes: " I am thankful that this affliction has 
drawn me to the sweet fields rather than from them." 
As soon as he was able he started, with a plant press 
on his back, and three books in his pocket, — the New 
Testament, Burns and Milton, — for a tramp through 
the South. Glad and thankful to be out-of-doors, he 
tramped, often footsore, weary and hungry, over a 
thousand miles, to Florida. Then he crossed to Cuba 
and botanized there. 

On this trip he slept out-of-doors most of the time, 
both as a matter of preference and economy, but it was 
unwise, for in the Florida swamps he contracted a 
a fever which again brought him to despair — but the 
accident to his eyesight and the fever were blessings in 
disguise. 

Here are parts of two letters he wTOte while on his 
Southern trip. " Among the Hills of Bear Creek, 
seven miles southeast of Burkesville, Kentucky, 
Sept. 9th. I left Indiana last Monday and have 
reached this point by a long, weary, roundabout 
walk. I walked from Louisville, a distance of one 
hundred and seventy miles, and my feet are sore, but 
oh, I am paid for all my toil a thousand times over. 
. . . The sun has been among the tree tops for more 
than an hour, and the dew is nearly all taken back and 
the shade in these hid basins is creeping away into 
the unbroken strongholds of the grand old forest. I 
have enjoyed the trees and scenery of Kentucky ex- 



JOHN MUIR 345 

ceedingly. How shall I ever tell of the miles and miles 
of beauty that have been flowing into me ? These lofty 
curving ranks of rolling, swelling hills; these concealed 
valleys of fathomless verdure and these lordly trees 
with the nursing sunlight glancing on their leaves upon 
the outlines of the magnificent masses of shade em- 
bosomed among their wide branches. These are cut 
into my memory to go with me forever. 

" I am in the woods on a hill top with my back 
against a moss- clad log. I wish you could see my last 
evening's bedroom. 

" It was a few miles south of Louisville where I 
planned my journey. I spread out my map under a 
tree and made up my mind to go tlirough Kentucky, 
Tennessee, and Georgia to Florida, thence to Cuba, 
thence to some part of South America. But it will be 
only a hasty walk. I am thankful, however, for so 
much." 

The second letter is dated Cedar Keys, November 
8th. 

" I am just creeping about, getting plants and 
strength after my fever. I do not yet know which point 
in S. America I had better go to." 

Then suddenly his purpose changed. California was 
suggested. He decided to accept the suggestion. He 
came by way of the Isthmus of Panama, and in April of 
1868 stood in the streets of the active, bustling, exciting, 
gold-loving San Francisco. One would have supposed 
this new and stirring city of the Pacific shore would have 
aroused his curiosity and desire to know all of its 
wonders and mysteries. But not a nerve thrilled 



346 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

to any call the wonderful city made. Far to the south 
and east were the Sierra Nevada — those peaks of the 
great snowy range that separate California from Nevada 
— with their deep canyons, glacier-formed domes, 
fearsome precipices, dense forests, all sending out 
thrills of allurement. He knew next to nothing about 
what he was going to see ; he anticipated nothing of the 
great discoveries that were to make him famous, yet 
the mysteries and wonders of this portion of great 
Nature called to him with many voices that could not 
be withstood, and, with but one day given to the at- 
tractions of the city, he fled to the mountains. 

It was the ^'oice of his fate, his love, calling to him. 
He could not have resisted it had he tried, and he did not 
try. He went, he saw, and was conquered. Since then 
he has wandered over many thousands of miles of the 
earth's varied surface, yet he has never lost his first love 
for the Sierra Nevada. 

With all this after knowledge before us, it is inter- 
esting to read in a letter dated " Near Snelling, Merced 
Co., California, July 26th, 1868. Fate and flowers 
have carried me to California and I have reveled and 
luxuriated amid its plants and mountains nearly four 
months. I am well again. I came to life in the cool 
winds and crystal waters of the mountains, and were it 
not for a thought now and again of loneliness and 
isolation, the pleasure of my existence would be com- 
plete. I will remain here eight or nine months." 

That was in 1868. It is now 1910; forty-two years 
later, and John Muir is still within sight and reach and 
smell of his beloved Sierras. 



JOHN MUIR 347 

But at this distance it is more than interesting to read 
a few passages from Ms first letter descriptive of the 
wonders of CaUfornia. 

" After a delightful sail I arrived in San Francisco 
in April, and struck out at once into the country. I fol- 
lowed the Diablo foothills along the San Jose valley 
to Gilroy — thence over the Diablo Mountains to the 
valley of San Joaquin by the Pacheco pass, thence 
down the valley opposite the mouth of the Merced 
River, thence across the San Joaquin, and up into the 
Sierra Nevadas to the mammoth trees of Mariposa, 
and the glorious Yo-Semite — thence down the Merced 
to this place. 

" The goodness of the weather as I journeyed towards 
Pacheco was beyond all praise and description — 
fragrant, and mellow, and bright, the sky was perfectly 
delicious. Sweet enough for the breath of angels, every 
draught of it gave a separate and distinct piece of pleas- 
ure. I do not believe that Adam and Eve ever tasted 
better in their balmiest nook. The last of the coast range 
foothills were in near view all the way to Gilroy; their 
union with the valley is by curves and slopes of in- 
imitable beauty, and they were robed with the greenest 
grass and richest light I ever beheld, and colored and 
shaded with myriads of flowers of every hue, chiefly 
of purple and golden 3'ellow, and hundreds of crystal 
rills joined song with the larks, filling all the valley 
with music like a sea, making it Eden from end to end. 

" The scenery too, and all of nature in the pass is 
fairly enchanting, — strange and beautiful mountian 
ferns, low in the dark canyons, and high upon the 



348 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

rocky sunlit peaks, — banks of blooming shrubs, and 
sprinklings, and gatherings of garment flowers, precious 
and pure as ever enjoyed the sweets of a mountain 
home. Oh what streams are there beaming, glancing, 
— each with music of its own, singing as they go in 
shadow and light, onward upon their lovely changing 
pathways to the sea. And hills rise over hills, and 
mountains over mountains, heaving, waving, swelling, 
in most glorious overpowering, unreadable majesty — 
and when at last stricken and faint like a crushed in- 
sect, you hope to escape from all the terrible grandeur 
of these mountain powers, other mountains, other oceans 
break forth before you, for there, in clear view, over 
heaps and rows of foothills is laid a grand, smooth, out- 
spread plain, watered by a river, and another range 
of peaky, snow-capped mountains a hundred miles in 
the distance. That plain is the valley of the San Joa- 
quin, and those mountains are the great Sierra Ne- 
vadas. The valley of the San Joaquin is the floweriest 
piece of world I ever walked — one vast, level, even 
flower-bed — a sheet of flowers — a smooth sea, rufifled 
a little in the middle by the tree- fringing of the river, 
and here and there of smaller cross streams from the 
mountains. Florida is indeed a land of flowers, but 
for every flower creature that dwells in its most de- 
lightsome places, more than a hundred are living here. 
Here, here is Florida. Here they are not sprinkled 
apart with grass between as in our prairies, but grasses 
are sprinkled in the flowers ; not as in Cuba, flowers piled 
upon flowers, heaped and gathered into deep glowing 
masses, but side by side, flower to flower, petal to 



JOHN MUIR 349 

petal, touching but not entwined, branches weaving 
past and past each other, but free and separate — 
one smooth garment, mosses next the ground, grasses 
above, petaled flowers between. 

" Before studying the flowers of this valley, and their 
sky, and all of the furniture, and sounds, and adorn- 
ments of their home, one can scarce believe that their 
vast assemblies are permanent, but rather that, actu- 
ated by some great plant purpose, they had convened 
from every plain, and mountain, and meadow of their 
kingdom, and that the different coloring of patches, 
acres and miles, marked the bounds of the various 
tribe and family encampments." 

In 1876 he joined the United States Coast and 
Geodetic Survey in order to know something of the 
deserts and mountain ranges on the other side of the 
Sierras, For three years he worked, mainly in Ne- 
vada and Utah, enlarging his knowledge, and coming 
into contact with many interesting and unconven- 
tional people in the States of Sage Brush and Mor- 
mons. 

Then he went back to his glacier studies in the 
Sierras, and in 1879 determined to explore the glaciers 
of Alaska. There he discovered the great glacier that 
bears his name, as well as Glacier Bay, into which it 
flows. He traveled thousands of miles up and down 
the streams of Alaska, often alone, sometimes with 
Indians, many hundreds of miles in the company of 
Rev. S. Hall Young, a Presbyterian missionary. In 
1 88 1 he was a member of the Cor win expedition which 
went in search of De Long and the ill-fated Jeannette, 



350 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and thus was afforded another opportunity of extend- 
ing his glacial studies in the Behring Sea and along the 
coast of Siberia. The continuity and persistence of his 
interests may be seen from the fact that he personally 
explored and studied the most notable ice-rivers of 
North America, as well as the work of the ancient 
and extinct glaciers, and then, in 1893, went to Norway 
and Switzerland in order to compare what he had seen ' 
on this continent with the conditions there. 

In person he is tall, wiry, of slight build, but pos- 
sessed of the muscles, nerves and sinews of a trained 
athlete. Dressed in black conventional costume, he 
looks more like a minister than the hero of moun- 
tain climbing adventures and daring glacier- explor- 
ing. 

Muir's later work has been mainly in the West. 
He has been a persistent and tireless worker. Hun- 
dreds of pages in magazines, scientific journals, news- 
papers testify to his indomitable energy, and his two 
books, The Mountains of Calijornia and Our National 
Parks, are prose poems full of meat for scientist, orator 
and wTiter. Everything he writes is worth reading. 
He always has something to say and says it well, be- 
cause he writes unaffectedly and simply. But when his 
heart is bounding with joy he does not refram from 
expressing it, — he pours it out with enthusiasm and 
thus communicates the same delightful emotions to 
his readers. He has written only one other book, — 
a beautiful story of a dog, Stickeen. 

To give a little of Muir's flavor, his literary style, 
as differentiated from his letters, let me quote an ex- 



JOHN MUIR 351 

perience from the iirst- named book, in the chapter 
entitled, " A Near View of the High Sierra." 

" I made my bed in a nook of the pine-thicket, where 
the branches were pressed and crinkled overhead like a 
roof, and bent down around the sides. These are the 
best bedchambers the high mountains afford — snug 
as squirrel-nests, well ventilated, full of spicy odors, 
and with plenty of wind- played needles to sing one 
asleep. I little expected company, but, creeping in 
through a low side- door, I found five or six birds 
nestling among the tassels. The night-wind began to 
blow soon after dark; at first only a gentle breathing, 
but increasing toward midnight to a rough gale that 
fell upon my leafy roof in ragged surges like a cascade, 
bearing wild sounds from the crags overhead. The 
waterfall sang in chorus, filling the old ice-fountain 
with its solemn roar, and seeming to increase in power as 
the night advanced — fit voice for such a landscape. 
I had to creep out many times to the fire during the 
night, for it was biting cold and I had no blankets. 
Gladly I welcomed the morning star." 

His objective point was Mount Ritter — one of 
the glorious snow-clad peaks of the Sierras. 

" There, immediately in front, loomed the majestic 
mass of Mount Ritter, with a glacier swooping down 
its face nearly to my feet, then curving westward and 
pouring its frozen flood into a dark blue lake, whose 
shores were bound with precipices of crystalline snow; 
while a deep chasm drawn between the divide and the 
glacier separated the massive picture from everything 
else. . , . After gazing spellbound, T began instinctively 



352 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

to scrutinize every notch and gorge and weathered 
buttress of the mountain, with reference to making 
the ascent. The entire front of the glacier appeared as 
one tremendous precipice, sHghtly receding at the top, 
and bristHng with spires and pinnacles set above one 
another in formidable array. ... I could not dis- 
tinctly hope to reach the summit from this side, yet 
I moved on across the glacier as if driven by fate. 
Contending with myself, the season is too far spent, 
I said, and even should I be successful, I might be 
storm-bound on the mountains; and in the cloud- 
darkness, with the cliffs and crevasses covered with 
snow, how could I escape? No; I must wait till next 
summer. I would only approach the mountain now, 
and inspect it, creep about its flanks, learn what I 
could of its history, holding myself ready to flee on 
the approach of the first storm-cloud. But we little 
know until tried how much of the uncontrollable there 
is in us, urging across glaciers and torrents, and up 
dangerous heights, let the judgment forbid as it may. 

" I succeeded in gaining the foot of the cliff on the 
eastern extremity of the glacier, and there discovered 
the mouth of a narrow avalanche gully, through which 
I began to climb, intending to follow it as far as pos- 
sible, and at least obtain some fine wild views for my 
pains. Its general course is oblique to the plain of the 
mountain-face, and the metamorphic slates of which 
the mountain is built are cut by cleavage planes in such 
a way that they weather off in angular blocks, giving 
rise to irregular steps that greatly facilitate climbing 
on the sheer places. I thus made my way into a wilder- 



JOHN MUIR 353 

ness of crumbling spires and battlements, built to- 
gether in bewildering combinations, and glazed in 
many places with a thin coating of ice, which I had 
to hammer off with stones. The situation was gradu- 
ally becoming more perilous; but, having passed several 
dangerous spots, I dared not think of descending; for, 
so steep was the entire ascent, one would inevitably 
fall to the glacier in case a single misstep were made. 
Knowing, therefore, the tried danger beneath, I be- 
came all the more anxious concerning the developments 
to be made above, and began to be conscious of a 
vague foreboding of what actually befell; not that I 
was given to fear, but rather because my instincts, 
usually so positive and true, seemed vitiated in some 
way, and were leading me astray. At length, after 
attaining an ele\ation of about eight hundred feet, I 
found myself at the foot of a sheer drop in the bed of 
the avalanche channel I was tracing, which seemed ab- 
solutely to bar further progress. It was only about 
forty-five or fifty feet high, and somewhat roughened 
by fissures and projections; but these seemed so slight 
and insecure, as footholds, that I tried hard to avoid 
the precipice altogether, by scaling the wall of the 
channel on either side. But, though less steep, the walls 
were smoother than the obstructing rock, and repeated 
efforts only showed that I must either go right ahead 
or turn back. The tried dangers beneath seemed even 
greater than that of the cliff in front; therefore, after 
scanning its face again and again, I began to scale it, 
picking my holds with intense caution. After gaining 
a point about half-way to the top, I was suddenly 



354 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

brought to a dead stop, with arms outspread, clinging 
close to the face of the rock, unable to move hand or 
foot either up or down. My doom appeared fixed. 
I must fall. There would be a moment of bewilder- 
ment, and then a lifeless rumble down the one general 
precipice to the glacier below. 

" When this final danger flashed upon me, I became 
nerve-shaken for the first time since setting foot on 
the mountains, and my mind seemed to fill with a 
stifling smoke. But this terrible eclipse lasted only 
a moment, when life blazed forth again with preter- 
natural clearness. I seemed suddenly to become pos- 
sessed of a new sense. The other self, bygone ex- 
periences. Instinct, or Guardian Angel, — call it what 
you will, — came forward and assumed control. Then 
my trembling muscles became firm again, every rift 
and flaw in the rock was seen as through a micro- 
scope, and my limbs moved with a positiveness and 
precision with which I seemed to have nothing at all 
to do. Had I been borne aloft upon wings, my 
deliverance could not have been more complete. 

" Above this memorable spot, the face of the moun- 
tain is still more savagely hacked and torn. It is a 
maze of yawning chasms and gullies, in the angles of 
which rise beetling crags and piles of detached boulders 
that seem to have been gotten ready to be launched 
below. But the strange influx of strength I had received 
seemed inexhaustible. I found a way without effort, 
and soon stood on the topmost crag in the blessed 
light." 

There are five things in John Muir's career that stand 



JOHN MUIR 355 

out with boldness as landmarks for the guidance of 
young men who would attain in their sphere, as he 
has attained in his. These are: i. His determinate 
and careful selection of the work he deemed worthy 
the energy of his life. In John Muir, the author of 
that much praised book — The Simple Life — would 
find a living example of his teaching. No man can love 
Nature as Muir does and not become simplified in tastes, 
requirements, needs. And thus it is that a man lives. 
Muir knows no policy, no diplomacy ; follows no man- 
made charts of life, has no fear as to what other 
people think, feel, act or do. He does his own chosen 
work bravely, fearlessly, reverently, and knows, with 
Emerson, that God's Spirit within a man will never 
guide him far wrong. Here is a short extract from one 
of his own frank expressions upon this subject: "I 
am glad to know by you and Emerson, and others, 
living and dead, that my unconditional surrender to 
Nature has produced exactly what you have foreseen • — 
that, drifting without human charts through light 
and dark, calm and storm, I have come to so glorious an 
ocean." 

2. The result of this selection was a concentration 
of power that was bound to produce results. Muir 
eliminated all distracting influences. He subordinated 
his desires for lesser good to the good he deemed 
highest for himself, — his complete abandon to a study 
of Nature. 

3. Everything he did, he did thoroughly. He was a 
born questioner. What people said and believed was 
" so " did not necessarily make it so. Muir was a phi- 



356 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

losopher. He reasoned that as errors have been made 
by taking things for granted in the past, such errors 
will continue to be made, and, therefore, in his moun- 
tain and glacier work he would question everything, 
and then demand an answer. This meant a steady, 
persistent thoroughness, a resolute patience that tries 
and tests men. It does more, too. If they stand the 
test it develops them. And so Muir was developed. 
You cannot determine the flow of glacial ice in a day, 
or a week, or a month, or a year. You cannot resolve 
questions of geology in an hour. Theories are not 
changed into scientific certainties by chance. Let 
Muir tell in one of his letters how he studied glaciers 
and came to his conclusions. Says he: " Although I 
was myself thus fully satisfied concerning the real 
nature of these ice masses I found that my friends re- 
garded my deductions and statements with distrust, 
therefore I determined to collect proofs of the common 
measured arithmetical kind. 

" On the 2ist of August last, I planted five stakes in 
the glacier of Mt. McClure, which is situated east of 
Yosemite Valley near the summit of the range. Four 
of these stakes were extended across the glacier in a 
straight line, from the east side to a point near the 
middle of the glacier. The first stake was planted 
about twenty-five yards from the east bank of the 
glacier, the second ninety-four yards, the third one 
hundred and fifty-two, and the fourth two hundred and 
twenty- five yards. The positions of these stakes were 
determined by sighting across from bank to bank past 
a plumbline made of a stone and a black horse hair. 



JOHN MUIR 357 

On observing my stakes on the sixth of October, or 
in twenty-six days after being planted, I found that 
stake No. i had been carried down stream eleven inches, 
No. 2 eighteen inches, No. 3, thirty- four. No. 4, forty- 
seven inches. 

" As stake No. 4 was near the middle of the glacier, 
perhaps it was not far from the point of maximum 
^'elocity, forty-seven inches in forty-sLx days or one inch 
per day. 

" Stake No. 5 was planted about midway between the 
head of the glacier and stake No. 4. Its motion I found 
to be in forty-six days forty inches. Thus these ice 
masses are seen to possess the true glacial mo- 
tion. Their surfaces are striped with bent dirt bands. 
These surfaces are bulged and undulated by inequal- 
ities in the bottom of their basins causing an up- 
ward and downward swedging corresponding to the 
horizontal swedging as indicated by the curved dirt 
bands. 

" The Mt. McClure Glacier is about one- half mile 
in length and about the same in width at the broadest 
place. 

"It is crevassed on the southeast corner; the crev- 
asse runs about southwest and northeast and is several 
hundred yards in length. Its width is nowhere more 
than one foot in width. 

" The Mt. Lyell Glacier, separated from that of 
McClure by a narrow crest, is about a mile in width 
by a mile in length." 

4. From this and other of his letters it is evident that 
no second-hand knowledge was ever of service to him. 



358 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

He learned everything at first hand. The world is 
deluged to-day with Nature books. But no man knows 
Nature who only reads about her. He must live with 
her, personally commune with her. Muir having done 
so for many years, his words, when he either writes 
or speaks, have weight. When he first began to tell 
of what he had discovered of the living glaciers in the 
Sierra Nevada, the scientists laughed at the presump- 
tion of a " sheepherder " to question the determina- 
tions of such great scientists as Whitney, King, Le 
Conte, and Hoffman. These men knew there were no 
living glaciers in the Sierras. They knew the Yo- 
semite Valley was formed by a great cataclysm which 
had split open three thousand feet of solid granite 
and yawned so vastly that the bed of the valley had 
dropped in to that depth. Who was Muir, that he dare 
challenge these long-accepted theories of the scientists? 
Muir was nothing, save in that he w-as the human in- 
strument of careful observation, thorough reflection, 
and accurate recording of the facts; and he lived to see 
every scientist in the world hastening to declare his 
belief that he was right and his fellow- scientists of the 
past wrong, 

Muir never would have changed the knowledge of 
the world from error to truth had he been content to 
accept other people's ideas. He must know for him- 
self. And thus must every person do who would really 
know. This lesson Muir learned early and has taught 
grandly to the world. The slow accumulation of facts, 
the resolute hunting down of an idea, the persistent 
determination that things must prove themselves ere 



JOHN MUIR 359 

he accepted them, ultimately made of him a great 
scientist, 

5. Nor is this all that Nature made of Muir. She 
made him a poet and a man of power. To many people 
these two things do not harmonize — poetry and power. 
Yet every true poet is a man of power. The poet is 
one who sees and knows, who understands and inter- 
prets. Power is not always measured by pounds and 
tons, kilowatts and other material indications. The 
power of initial thought can seldom be measured or 
estimated, yet one thought properly given has some- 
times changed the whole current of history. The power 
of thought is well seen in the lives and works of such 
men as Luther, Mahomet, Patrick Henry, Lincoln, 
Herbert Spencer, Darwin and Muir. And in no way 
does one lose power in becoming a poet. The poet is 
one who sees below the actual or material surfaces 
of things, and understands their spirit, then has the 
ability to tell what he sees in the most perfect way, so 
that you also see. The poet, then, is an enlarger of other 
people's visions. He broadens, widens, deepens, 
heightens their outlook upon the things that surround 
them. Is this an occupation unworthy the energies of 
the manliest of men? Nay, but rather should all men 
seek to be poets if thereby they might heighten the joy 
of living in themselves and their neighbors. It is the 
poet in them that makes of men artists, painters, 
sculptors, architects, writers. And according as they 
get their inspiration so is their power. The man who 
gets his inspiration from Nature, from the basic things, 
from the primitive sources, is filled with a basic, primi- 



36o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

tive power that is dominating, overwhelming. Such 
was the power of Michael Angelo, of Shakspere, of 
Millet, of Rodin. Such is the power of Muir. Such 
power is for all time; it lasts as long as man lasts. It is 
permanent, because the good in human nature is 
permanent, persistent, divine. 



CHAPTER XXXIII 

THE TENDER HEROINE OF INDIAN FRIEND- 
SHIP, HELEN HUNT JACKSON 

T T 7HEN the pioneers came to California, they found 
' ^ many Indians living in dug-outs in the sides of 
the mountains, or in the rudest kind of mud houses, 
so they called them Diggers and wTOte home that they 
were the most degraded and worthless human beings 
they had ever seen or known. Even those who thought 
they knew something of them, and studied them, came 
to the conclusion that they were a good-for-nothing, 
wretched, useless race, cumbering the earth, and that 
the sooner they could be gotten rid of the better. In 
time a saying became as common here as it was else- 
where, viz., " the only good Indian is the dead In- 
dian," and many white people quoted this as a justifi- 
cation for all kinds of evil and dishonest treatment 
of the Indian. Throughout the whole country there 
were but few to defend this helpless race, and those 
who did were berated for their waste of sympathy. 
The cruelties of the Indians in warfare were brought 
up, their occasional outbreaks, and the murder, with 
atrocious details, of helpless women and children. But 
it was overlooked and forgotten that these outbreaks 
were caused, in every case, by the wicked and cruel 
treatment the Indians had received at the hands of 



362 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

white men. On every hand this treatment was common. 
From the government down to the meanest hunter, 
miner and squatter, no one felt that the Indian had 
any rights that needed to be respected. We wanted 
the land the Indians roamed over, we wanted the forests 
they lived in during the summer, we wanted the game 
they hunted for food, we wanted the streams in which 
they fished, we wanted springs, especially in the desert 
and arid regions, from which they secured water 
for themselves and their flocks and herds; indeed 
we wanted everything they possessed that we thought 
we could use, for were we not " the superior race," 
and had not God given to us this great country to use 
simply and solely for our own benefit? 

What to us was the doctrine of the Fatherhood of 
God? What cared we about the brotherhood of man? 
Those doctrines applied only to our own race, our 
own people; and these Indians were bronze- skinned 
and only " savages." Because they were bronze- 
skinned and wore the rude robes of their forefathers, 
the dressed pelts of animals; because they did not 
herd themselves in cities, in crowded streets and tene- 
ment and apartment houses, and build hotels and 
court-houses and churches in which to live and practise 
" law " one upon another, and have some one teach 
them " religion," they were necessarily " heathen " 
and lawless and religionless. Hence why spare them? 
They were dreadfully insistent at times that they had 
" rights." They didn't like to have their springs 
taken away; they resented being told that they must 
no longer hunt over the plains where their ancestors had 



HELEN HUNT JACKSON 363 

hunted before ever a white man trod the continent; 
they resisted when they were driven from their corn- 
fields by civilized white men. They had the impu- 
dence to be angry when members of this great, noble, 
and Christian white race corrupted their wives and 
daughters. They were foolish and simple-hearted 
enough to expect white men — especially officers of the 
army and government — to speak the truth when they 
pledged their words of honor, even in solemn treaty, 
that they — the Indians — should be protected in all the 
rights they had enjoyed from time immemorial. Their 
old men thought they were patriotic when they pleaded 
with the representatives of the white race to prohibit 
the selling of alcoholic liquors to their young men and 
their women; they saw the havoc the deadly fire- 
water was causing and wished to stay its insidious 
influence; but we were a great commercial nation and 
could not interfere with the vested interests of our 
brewers and whisky distillers, simply to please a few 
" brutal, ignorant savages." What did the ruin 
of the bodies — never mind the souls — of a few 
thousands of Indians amount to, compared with the 
commercial interests of " our great and wonderful 
country ? " The Indians had a kind of an idea that the 
land they had used for centuries belonged to them, 
but it was left for a California court of justice — 
confirmed by the Supreme Court of the State and 
afterwards by the Supreme Court of the United States 
— to show them the foolishness of such an idea. 

Helen Hunt Jackson saw all these things, and being 
a good and noble woman, with red blood coursing 



364 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

through her heart, and ability to use her own brain, 
regardless of what others said, she came to the con- 
clusion that no matter what we called oursehes, or the 
Indians, our conduct towards them was not Christian, 
was not honest, was not true, was not civilized, was not 
anything, in fact, that was good, decent, honorable 
and commendable, but, on the other hand, was fiendish, 
monstrous and cruel in the extreme. 

In this she was not alone. There were large num- 
bers of men and women in the land who had discovered 
the same things, and some of them were trying to stem 
the tide of evil treatment of our helpless wards. But 
Mrs. Jackson had not only a large heart, she had a 
clear brain and a determined soul, and she swore a 
large oath that, God helping her, she would do some- 
thing that should help stop these great wrongs. 

First she wTOte a book entitled The Century oj Dis- 
honor, which recited our government's wicked treat- 
ment of the Indian in the open and cruel violation of 
treaties; and she gave " chapter and verse " of these 
treaties and quoted government officials' reports to show 
the grievous wrongs that constantly were being com- 
mitted. 

This book produced somewhat of a sensation, but 
it was as a handful of sand thrown into the ocean. 
This aroused her to see that something more must be 
done. Enough had been said to prepare the country 
for her message, and she began to give it in clear, 
womanly tones, yet insistently, forcefully, and relent- 
lessly. Her mind was keenly logical; she was an 
indefatigable and tireless worker; she saw what the 



HELEN HUNT JACKSON 365 

people ought to know, and her literary gift enabled 
her so to set things forth that she had the open sesame 
to many powerful and influential papers. Her en- 
thusiasm was unbounded, and she compelled atten- 
tion by the seriousness of her charges, the logical 
ability with which she prepared them, and the per- 
sistence with which she pressed them. Evaded on a 
point, she brought the evader's attention to it from 
another standpoint. She compelled a complete reve- 
lation of the hands of the officials; they shuffled and 
quibbled, shirked and tried to elude, but, with a power 
no one ever dreamed her to possess, she led them on 
to unmask their batteries, disclose their secret pol- 
icies, and either defend or abandon them. Her con- 
troversy with Carl Schurz, the Secretary of the Interior, 
is as interesting as the combat between an able lawyer 
and an equally able witness; and when she had forced 
him clearly to declare his attitude, she did not hesitate, 
with equal clearness, either to condemn or have it 
condemned by the leaders of the New York press. 

Here, then, is the woman, who, in 1882, came to 
Southern California to study on the ground itself the 
Franciscan Missions and the Indians for whom they 
had been founded. Her careful researches made in 
the Astor Library, New York, in 1880, had informed 
her of some of the wrongs perpetrated upon them, 
and with a heart fired by the constant injustices done 
to Indians generally, who were denied by " the powers 
that be " any standing in court, and were therefore 
at the mercy of all the hangers-on and politician- 
vultures who sought to fatten on their very flesh and 



366 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

blood, she was ready to take up their case just as soon 
as its urgency was made clear to her. 

The Century Magazine had given her a commission 
to wTite a series of articles, — what, they hardly knew, 
save that they were to be on the Missions and the 
Indians of California, and with characteristic energy 
and clear-sightedness she began to go right to the 
heart of the subject. 

She secured letters to the Catholic bishop and 
priests who might be able to help her ; she made friends 
with old Spanish families and sought their aid; she 
visited the Missions themselves, and in the spell of 
their presence sought to live again in the time of their 
greatest activities. She consulted original records 
and gathered a vast fund of information, which she 
transmitted into delightfully interesting literature in 
her Century articles. First she wrote about Junipero 
Serra and the Missions he and his successors founded 
and conducted. Then she took up the existent con- 
ditions of the Mission Indians. 

What she then saw led her to resolve to attempt 
to move the government to do something, honestly 
and really, not by mere resolutions and reports and 
red tape and verbal flimflam, but by action, to preserve 
to these poor creatures some portion of the homes that 
were " legally " being wrested from them. 

Accordingly, on July 7, 1882, she was instructed 
by the Indian Department, " to visit the Mission 
Indians of California, and ascertain the location and 
condition of the various bands; whether suitable 
land in their vicinity, belonging to the public domain, 



HELEN HUNT JACKSON 367 

could be made available as a permanent home for 
such of those Indians as were not established upon 
reservations, and what, if any, lands should be pur- 
chased for their use." 

She visited the various tribes in company with the 
Hon. Abbott Kinney, — later known as the founder 
of Venice, a beautiful seaside resort near Los Angeles, 
— and made her report to the government, but, to her 
amazement, next to nothing was done. Then she saw 
that her appeal must be a direct one to the hearts of 
the American people. She realized that politicians 
would do little or nothing unless compelled to act by 
the direct demand of their constituents, so, fired to 
the very depths of her heart, she determined to write a 
novel, — a book that should compel attention and teach 
Americans that Indians were human beings as capable 
of high emotions, of beautiful ideals, of noble lives as 
they themselves were. November 8, 1883, she wrote 
the following letter from Colorado Springs (her home), 
to two of her Spanish friends in Los Angeles, who had 
taken her to their hearts and aided her in her research 
work among the Indians: 

" My dear Friends, Mr. and Mrs. Coronel: I send 
you herewith the very bad picture of myself, which I 
think you will wish you had never seen. If you do, 
you are quite at liberty to burn it up. 

" I had forgotten that I paid you the five dollars 
for the work done by the Indian woman. Keep it, if 
you please; there may be something to come from 
Father Ubach to pay expressage on, or there may be a 



368 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

box to be made to hold all my stone mortars, etc., 
which Mr. Bliss is going to get for me one of these years. 
It may be well for you to have a little money of mine 
on hand to meet these possible charges. I have asked 
Father Ubach to send to me in your care the old 
looking-glass frame which I forgot to put into the box 
he sent here; it was really one of the things I cared 
most for of all the relics promised me, and I was ex- 
ceedingly sorry to forget it. He, however, did much 
to atone for this by putting into the box a piece of one 
of the old olive trees from the San Diego Mission. I 
shall present part of it to Archbishop Corrigan. I 
think he will value a piece of one of the fruit trees 
planted by Father Junipero. I am sure you will have 
rejoiced at the removal of Lawson from the agency of 
the Mission Indians. I hope the new man will prove 
better; he hardly can prove worse, I wish we could 
have selected the new agent ourselves; but it was a 
political appointment, of which we knew nothing until 
it was all settled. Our report has been favorably 
received, and its recommendations will be incorporated 
in a bill before Congress this winter. I hope the bill 
will pass. But I know too much of Washington to be 
sanguine. However, if we had accomplished nothing 
more than the securing the appointment of Brunson 
& Wells, Los Angeles, as United States attorneys, to 
protect the Indians' rights to lands, that would be 
matter of gratitude. I suppose you have heard of 
that appointment. I hope through their means to 
save the Saboba village, San Jacinto, from being 
turned out of their home. Now, I am as usual asking 



HELEN HUNT JACKSON 369 

help. I will tell you what my next work for the In- 
dians is to be. 

" I am going to write a novel, in which will be set forth 
some Indian experiences in a way to move people's 
hearts. People will read a novel when they will not 
read serious books. The scenes of the novel will be 
in Southern California, and I shall introduce enough of 
Mexicans and Americans to give it variety. The thing 
I want most, in the way of help, from you, is this: I 
would like an account, written in as much detail as you 
remember, of the time when you, dear iSIr. Coronel, 
went to Temecula and marked off the boundaries of 
the Indians' land there. How many Indians were 
living there then ? What crops had they ? Had they a 
chapel? etc. Was Pablo Assis, their chief, alive? 
I would like to know his whole history, life, death, and 
all, minutely. The Temecula ejectment will be one 
of the episodes in my story, and any and every detail 
in connection with it will be of value to me. I shall 
also use the San Pasquale Pueblo History, and I have 
written to Father Ubach and to Mr. Morse, of San 
Diego, for their reminiscences. You and they are 
the only persons to whom I have spoken of my pur- 
pose of wTiting the novel, and I do not wish anything 
said about it. I shall keep it a secret until the book 
is about done. 

" I hope very much that I can succeed in writ- 
ing a story which will help to increase the interest 
already so much aroused at the East in the Indian 
question. 

" If you think of any romantic incidents, either 



370 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Mexican or Indian, which you think would work well 
into a story of Southern California life, please write 
them out for me. I wish I had had this plan in my 
mind last year when I w^as in Los Angeles. I would 
have taken notes of many interesting things you told 
me. But it is only recently, since writing out for our 
report the full accounts of the different bands of Indians 
there, that I have felt that I dared undertake the 
writing of a long story. 

" I am going to New York in a few days, and shall 
be busily at work there all winter on my story. My 
address will be, ' The Berkeley,' corner Fifth Avenue 
and Ninth Street. 

" I hope you are all well, and enjoying the same sun- 
shine as last year. Mr. Jackson is well, and would 
send his regards if he were at home. 

" Yours, always cordially, 

" Helen Jackson." 

When once this thought of writing a novel had 
entered her mind, she was totally absorbed by it. Every 
energy was bent towards its accomplishment. All 
her fervor, literary ability, powers of research, observa- 
tion and enthusiasm were harnessed in the one cause. 
Her researches had given her a wonderful familiarity 
with all the details, so picturesque, so unusual, so 
pathetic, so romantic, for the details of the book, and 
her life of travel and \^Titing about what she had seen 
rendered her peculiarly fitted to set forth the exquisite 
beauty and grandeur of Southern California as the 
background of her story. Then, too, so many real 



HELEN HUNT JACKSON 371 

incidents were ready to her hand to fit into the novel. 
These she gathered from every available source, Don 
Antonio Coronel and his noble wife opened up the 
rich treasure-house of their well-stored minds, and re- 
vealed the deep and loving sympathies of their profound 
natures and poured forth facts and suggestions innumer- 
able. 

From Miss Sheriff, who had for years been a teacher 
at Saboba, Mrs. Jackson heard the story of the slaying 
of the Indian, Juan Diego, in the mountains near by, 
by Sam Temple, who accused him of stealing his horse. 
Mrs. Sheriff, now Mrs. Fowler, still lives at San Jacinto. 
From Mrs. Jordan, who was personally familiar with 
all the facts, she heard the corroboration of the story, 
learned the absolute truth of Juan Diego's attacks of 
" loco," the taking of Temple's horse, and gained the 
character of Aunt Ri. 

From Juan Diego's wife, whose actual name is 
Ramona Lubo, she heard the story of how Temple 
came and shot down her husband at close range as he 
came out of their little cabin, and of Ramona's flight 
to Cahuilla. 

From Don Antonio and certain Los Angeles lawyers 
who were interested in the Indians, as well as from 
the government records and the lips of the Indians 
themselves, she heard of the evictions at Temecula 
and San Pasqual. 

With her literary friends, chiefly Mrs, Jeanne C. 
Carr, of Pasadena, she consulted freely about the 
story, and no one will ever be able to estimate the 
influence IVIrs, Carr's clear mind, artistic conceptions^ 



372 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and deep loving nature, fully given over to the In- 
dians, exercised upon the gro^\'ing novel. 

All that was now needed was her framework, the 
skeleton of the story, the plot. She had studied the 
^lissions, the old Spanish days, the Indians in their 
humble homes, Southern California in general, as no 
other person had ever done. 

She created the plot and little by little the story 
assumed shape. Mrs. Jackson had seen enough of 
Southern California to have absorbed its spirit, its 
sunshine, its glo-^ing atmosphere, and now, filled 
vnth. facts about the Indians over which she had 
deeply brooded, until they had become vivid pictures 
engraved upon her very soul, she began to ^^Tite. 
Once the pen was in her hands, a divine frenzy seized 
her. She A^TOte as one possessed. Indeed she ^^TOte 
to her publisher that it was only the physical impos- 
sibility that prevented her from finishing it at a sitting, 
for, said she: "I have the whole story at my finger 
ends." 

Its publication formed an epoch. When it appeared, 
in 1884, many critics hailed it " the great American 
novel." Throbbing ^^•ith emotion, palpitant with 
life, vivid in its picturing of all the scenes, whether of 
inanimate or animate nature, realistic in its delinea- 
tions of human character, sympathetic in its dealings 
with the despised and dov,-ntrodden Indians, outspoken 
in its denimciation of the wrongs perpetrated upon 
them; recognized at once as an authoritative picture 
of the Spanish California life of the time, it sprang with 
a bound into public favor. It was not widely heralded 



HELEN HUNT JACKSOX 373 

by advertising as a great novel, but it won its way by 
its ovm. power. Few, indeed, of the popular novels that 
are " the greatest sellers " for a few ueeks or months 
are remembered after a year or two are gone, but 
Ramona is as widely read, and almost as widely pur- 
chased to-day, as when it was in the full da^^•n of 
its first popularity. Only the other day I stood by 
the desk of a " baggage smasher " in one of the bag- 
gage rooms of a railway depot. In one of the pigeon- 
holes, ready at hand for a spare moment or at lunch- 
time, was a well- worn copy of Ramona. " That's 
the buUiest story I ever read in my life," said the rude- 
handed son of toil, in response to my comment. And 
I could not help but feel : How is it possible for one to 
read this story and not feel its humanizing influence ? 
Thus the good work goes on. The book is a constant 
missionary, ever silently, but potently, preaching the 
beautiful doctrine of the humanity of all men, regard- 
less of the color of their skin, and the Universal Father- 
hood of God, 



CHAPTER XXXIV 

THE PERSISTENT HERO OF A GREAT HISTORY, 
HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT 

CALIFORNIA and the Pacific Coast region have a 
history more varied, more strange, and more ro- 
mantic, perhaps, than that of any country in the world. 
Speaking for Cahfornia alone, during the sixty 
years of its existence, its history is unequaled, full 
of dramatic surprises, changes and evolutions. Origi- 
nally occupied by two classes of Indians, — the peace- 
able fishers, trappers, hunters and basket-makers of 
the coast and interior valleys, and the more warlike 
tribes of the mountains, — prior to its entry into the 
sisterhood of the United States, it had several important 
epochs. First came that of Spanish discovery, then its 
missionization by the Franciscan padres, when the 
striking mission buildings were erected, followed 
by its separation from Spain, its government as a 
province of Mexico, and a rather large influx of Ameri- 
can hunters, trappers, shippers and coast traders. 
Then came the military invasion of Fremont, Sloat, 
and Kearny's " Army of the West," the seizure from 
Mexico, the discovery of gold, and the establishment 
of a State government. It saw its mines add to the gold 
supply of the world fabulous amounts in a short space 
of time, and had barely settled down to a recognition 




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HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT 375 

of its own life when it was again thrilled through and 
through by the discovery of the mines of the Comstock 
Lode in Nevada. It occupied a unique position during 
the Civil War, and developed the overland stage lines 
and pony express to a higher degree of efficiency than 
had ever before been known. It started an epidemic 
of railroad building all over the country by the com- 
pletion of its transcontinental railway, and quickened 
rapid transit in many cities by the development of its 
cable street-railways. It has had its heroic epoch — 
the days when cattlemen were its kings — and its 
pomological and agricultural developments. Its growth 
in irrigation has been a revelation to the world, and its 
transformed deserts are now among the garden spots 
of Western America. Its oil discoveries, and the use of 
oil for fuel in houses, manufactories, and steam engines 
have revolutionized the fuel problem on the Coast, 
and made possible wonderful advancement in manu- 
facturing. Its scenic and climatic environment has 
been an increasingly potent factor in its attractiveness 
to settlers from all parts of the world, and, in con- 
clusion, it has developed a civilization peculiarly its 
own, which is destined to influence the future history 
of the world far more than its most far-seeing prophets 
realize. 

Naturally the written records of a country grow 
scarcer and more valuable the further Time carries 
back the hour of their occurrence, while the unwTitten 
history of the participants in any particular epoch can 
be obtained only while they are still alive. 

To undertake to gather these ^vritten records, pub- 



376 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

lished and unpublished (the latter found in private or 
official documents, often of the highest value), and to 
collect the many personal and unwritten stories, vi^as 
a task that might have engaged the undivided attention 
of a government bureau, w^ith unlimited means at 
its disposal, and a large band of trained experts under 
its control. 

But this work was left for an ordinary business man, 
a publisher and seller of books, a man who made no 
pretension to expertness in gathering historical material 
and who had no literary training, but who had the 
perspicacity to clearly perceive the urgent need of the 
case, and who had the daring and patriotism to say: 
" Since no one of the many who are qualified, financially 
and intellectually, to accomplish this needful work 
seem disposed to undertake it, I will do my best at it, 
even though I fail in the attempt," Failure, however, 
was not destined for such men as Hubert Howe Ban- 
croft. He called upon his subordinates to gather every- 
thing bearing upon California history of every nature. 
Nothing was too great, nothing too small to be ignored. 
Slowly and then more rapidly the material grew. The 
area of the field also grew, for it was found that Cali- 
fornia was inextricably connected with Mexico, the 
north Mexican States, the Pacific States, Arizona, New 
Mexico, and Utah, until, instead of covering one State, 
twenty had to be considered. 

Look well at this man, at the time of this determina- 
tion, and see if he is not a true hero. An ordinary 
business man, with little or no literary training or ex- 
perience, whose whole life had been spent in the ardu- 



HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT 377 

ous labors of guiding and directing a rapidly growing 
bookselling, printing and publishing business, for 
which he had to make the capital as he went along. 
Even had he done the work poorly and inadequately 
he would have deserved the laurel wreath with the 
applause not only of his compeers but of the studious 
of his State and nation for all time. But he did not 
do it poorly. The necessities of the case led him to 
innovations in history-writing that have subjected 
him to much and severe criticism, yet the prime purpose 
was accomplished and well accomplished. He gave 
to the world as the result of his efforts and those of his 
co-workers thirty-nine volumes, which present in read- 
able, historic form — and much of it with literary 
fluency and grace — the varied and stirring history of 
this great region. As the years go by, the stupendous 
vastness of his work and the wisdom of his methods 
in its accomplishment will be the more recognized 
and appreciated. 

Hubert Howe Bancroft was born in Granville, Ohio, 
May 5, 1832, of x\shley Bancroft and Lucy Howe, the 
fourth in a family of six children. To the hard work 
of the farm as well as to an excellent heredity he freely 
attributes the sturdy physique and ability to work hard 
that has been his endowment through life. 

When the California gold excitement broke out, 
Bancroft's father left for the gold fields, and a year 
later, December, 1851, the future historian decided to 
follow him, with a consignment of bocks and station- 
ery, with which he would enter into business. There 
was no intention in his mind at this time to make Call- 



378 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

fornia his permanent residence, but though he jour- 
neyed back and forth eleven times over the Panama 
route, prior to the building of the transcontinental rail- 
way, he always returned to the land with which he 
was afterwards to become so remarkably identified. 

When he finally decided to settle down to business 
in California it was not long before he began to build 
up the great business which afterwards afforded the 
sinews of war for the life-work in which he engaged. 
As a business man and money-maker he was a 
marked success, and in sixteen years it was acknowl- 
edged that his business, which now included the manu- 
facturing and publishing as well as the selling of 
books, was one of the largest not only in the West 
but in the world. 

He was not yet forty years old; he had acquired a 
competency, and it was natural that with his restless 
and unconsciously ambitious temperament he should 
turn his attention to some larger and more important 
field. For ten years or more this field had slowly been in 
a state of preparation for him. It all arose from a re- 
quest by one of his employees, Mr. William H. Knight, 
for certain books on California and the West, which he 
needed for a Handbook he was then engaged in pre- 
paring. These books were placed by Mr. Knight on 
shelves near his desk, and as they accumulated, the idea 
of forming a collection of Western material slowly 
evolved itself in Mr. Bancroft's mind. Herein was the 
germ of the great library that afterwards made possible 
the greater history. Begun casually, it soon became 
a hobby, a personal pastime, though in it all, at first, 



HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT 379 

was a business man's idea, held vaguely, that, as a col- 
lection, it could readily be sold to some library or other 
institution. 

In 1862 it amounted to about a thousand volumes, 
and Mr. Bancroft began to feel satisfied that he had 
about completed his labors, when he made a visit to 
Europe. Here his eyes were opened, and he discovered 
that when he had multiplied his books by five instead 
of completing his collection he had but begun. Then 
the real passion took hold of him, and in 1866 he 
returned to Europe, made a historical survey of the 
field, and, for the first time, realized that a collection of 
books on California must necessarily include Mexico 
and all the larger Pacific Coast territory, including 
Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, and 
the whole Northwest. 

London, Paris, Burgos, Madrid were in turn visited 
and explored for treasures. The search continued 
through Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Holland 
and back to Paris and London. " Everywhere I found 
something and seized upon it, however insignificant, 
for I had long since ceased to resist the malady. Often 
have I taken a cab or a carriage to drive me from stall 
to stall all day, without obtaining more than perhaps 
three or four books or pamphlets, for which I paid a 
shilling or a franc apiece. Then again I would light 
upon a valuable manuscript which relieved my pocket to 
the extent of three, five, or eight hundred dollars." 

When ten thousand volumes had been collected, 
he felt sure his collection must be reasonably complete, 
when one day there came a pamphlet in his mail, which 



38o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

proved to be a catalogue of seven thousand books direct 
from Mexico. " A new light broke in upon me. I had 
never considered that Mexico had been printing books 
for three and a quarter centuries — one hundred years 
longer than Massachusetts — and that the earlier works 
were seldom seen floating about book-stalls and auction- 
rooms." The history of this particular collection was 
romantic in the extreme, and the value of the books 
no less marked than their story was interesting. It 
was impossible for Mr. Bancroft to reach Leipsic, 
where they were to be sold, in time for the auction. 
Says he: " Shutting my eyes to the consequences, I 
telegraphed my agent in London five thousand dollars 
earnest money, with instructions to attend the sale and 
purchase at his discretion." The result was that three 
thousand of the volumes offered were bought and 
shipped to San Francisco. 

That same year another valuable collection was 
bought, and this was but the beginning of library 
buying on a large scale. The list of important pur- 
chases alone would fill every page of this chapter and 
yet be incomplete. In 1880 he bought at one sale — 
that of the Ramirez library — nearly thirty thousand 
dollars' worth of most valuable books, without which 
his later work would have been impossible. 

The gathering of the personal material was equally 
fascinating and far more romantic. The story of how 
it was accomplished reads like a novel, but with the 
thrill of actuality in it. The jealousies to meet, the 
apathy to overcome, the suspicions to allay, the egotism 
of would-be historiographers to dispel, the vanity of 



HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT 381 

every kind of human nature to satisfy — what a story 
it is. Vallejo, Alvarado, Sutter, Bandini, Arguello, 
Pico, Sepuh^eda, Hayes, Wilson, Ubach, Robinson, 
Warner, Coronal, Widney, and a host of others to in- 
terview, interest, and then settle down to the actual writ- 
ing or dictation of their experiences. Thousands upon 
thousands of pages of manuscript were thus obtained by 
incalculable labor, incredible devotion, and no incon- 
siderable expense. Then there were the archives of 
all the Missions and towns, all of which had to be copied 
on the spot, as no one would allow them to be removed. 

The San Francisco archives alone, gathered from 
all parts of the State, bound in nearly four hundred 
volumes of from seven to nineteen hundred pages each, 
would have required the work of an ordinary copyist 
about a hundred years, working continuously and faith- 
fully. Under the direction of an expert, fifteen Span- 
iards were set to work, told what and how to copy, and 
in a year, at a cost of eighteen thousand dollars, all 
that Mr. Bancroft needed was placed in his library 
ready for his reference. 

In no brief chapter like this can anything more than 
the merest suggestion of the incredible labor and travel 
undertaken be given. And yet when all of this was 
done it can readily be seen that only the first step had 
been taken towards the preparation of a history of 
California and the whole Pacific region. Any other than 
a master mind, a natural genius for organization would 
have simply sat down dazed and baffled by the very 
immensity of the material that had been brought to- 
gether. 



382 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Little by little, however, while the library had been 
collecting, Mr. Bancroft and his able and devoted as- 
sistants had been formulating a system — evolved 
out of many systems — of indexing, cataloguing and 
preparing all this chaotic mass for literary purposes. 
At the same time Mr. Bancroft had been preparing 
himself for the task of writing and superintending the 
writing of others. 

It required heroism of a peculiar sort to make the 
library, but how much more heroic was the daring that 
led to the writing of the history must be left to those 
of poetic imagination and some literary experience to 
estimate. 

Let it be freely granted that Mr. Bancroft had de- 
voted help from his able lieutenants, Oak, Nemos, 
Savage, Cerruti, Mrs. Victor and others. Give them 
each all the credit they claim, justly or unjustly, and 
then the achievement stands forth as the conception, 
the work of a genius, a general, a great director. 

But Mr. Bancroft's work did not end here. The 
library gathered, the history written, who would dare 
undertake the printing and publishing of so elaborate 
a work ? Thirty-nine volumes of almost eight hundred 
pages each, full of names that must be correct and notes 
that must be verified was of itself a task to stagger the 
best established publishing house in the world. Then 
to publish and circulate — sell — such a work was an 
added task before which ordinary courage would falter. 
Yet, after various experiments, the historian shouldered 
the whole of this work himself and, what is more, car- 
ried it through to a successful and triumphant issue. 



HUBERT HOWE BANCROFT 383 

There was a time, however, when it seemed as if 
an adverse fate would triumph and arrest the work when 
it was but half completed. Mr. Bancroft and his wife 
were in San Diego when he received a telegram that 
his store was burning. Half an hour later came another 
saying that absolutely nothing had been saved but the 
account books. " Twenty volumes had been issued, and 
the firm was still two hundred thousand dollars behind 
on the enterprise. There was not a book left ; there was 
not a volume of history saved; nine volumes of history 
plates were destroyed, besides a dozen other volumes 
of plates; two carloads of history paper that had just 
come in, and twelve thousand bound volumes were de- 
voured by the flames. There was the enterprise left, 
and a dozen volumes of the history plates in the library 
basement, and that was all." 

It took time to find out whether the firm could go 
on or not, and what anguish in the waiting, what re- 
grets, what retrospections 1 Had he been content 
merely to make money one-fourth the energy ex- 
pended on the history had made him ten times a mil- 
lionaire, for money always came to him easily. And 
to face not so much financial failure, as the loss of 
twenty or more years of life spent in the most arduous 
and brain-racking of labors was enough to have dis- 
couraged even so dauntless a soul as Mr. Bancroft 
had proven himself to be. But, rising to the situation, 
his unconquerable soul asserted itself. The firm was 
reorganized, the store rebuilt, a separate structure 
erected for the prosecution of the work on the History, 
and the wheels set in full motion again. 



384 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

And they continued until success crowned his ef- 
forts. The great work was accompHshed, and in many 
a library there stands upon the sheh^es the product of 
Mr. Bancroft's indefatigable and unprecedented ef- 
forts, — a monument alike to his remarkable fore- 
sight as an observer, indomitable energy and courage 
as a collector, sagacity and genius as a historian, and 
daring as a publisher. The West owes him a debt 
it can never pay; the world will reap where he has 
sown for all time. To me, personally, Hubert Howe 
Bancroft stands forth as the greatest historian the 
world has ever known, not only because of what I have 
here so inadequately recounted, but because of the 
fearless impartiality, the just integrity and the al- 
together honest methods followed in presenting facts 
to the world. His footnotes alone are the positive evi- 
dences of his truth and integrity. They point ex- 
actly to all his sources of information, thus giving 
to the readers a check upon his every statement, his 
every conclusion. No other historian has ever at- 
tempted to do what he has done, and because of this 
great achievement and the spirit in which it has been 
accomplished, Hubert Howe Bancroft is one of the 
California heroes we should delight to honor. 



CHAPTER XXXV 

THE PATIENT HERO OF AGRICULTURE, LUTHER 
BURBANK 

THE year 1849 was a memorable year in California 
history. It was the year of the great influx of the 
gold pioneers from all parts of the world, and it was also 
the year of the birth of Luther Burbank. 

He first saw the light in Lancaster, Worcester County, 
Massachusetts, March 7, in that memorable year. 
He was the thirteenth (lucky number) of fifteen chil- 
dren, born to Samuel Walton Burbank by three mar- 
riages. He came to California in 1875, — deliberately 
chose it as his future home, and ever since then has 
been in every sense of the word a true and devoted 
Calif ornian. 

It is not my purpose here to enter into any explanation 
of Burbank's wonderful horticultural, floricultural and 
pomological achievements. These have been fully 
written about by Harwood, De Vries, David Starr 
Jordan, Professor Wickson, and the experts of the 
Carnegie Institution. It is of his moral heroism, ex- 
ercised quietly, unseen, unnoticed through a long and 
active life, — until the electric glare of the past few 
years, — that I wish particularly to write. Emerson 
and Goethe, and other philosophers, often called at- 
tention to the fact that the things a man unconsciously 



386 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

writes into his life, paints into his pictures, erects into 
his buildings, carves into his statues, are by far the 
most important of all the things that he does. Anyhow 
they are the things that reveal, that betray the real 
man, be the things revealed good or bad. It is this 
unconsciously written story whose lines are here re- 
traced. 

In his earliest years Luther Burbank was a quiet, 
shy lad, making playmates of plants rather than of 
other children. His doll — strange prophecy — was 
a cactus plant, fondly carried about until an accident 
shattered the plant and a young heart at one operation. 

As a boy he was put to work in the shops of the Ames 
Plough Company. Though he longed for the open air, 
and the companionship of the trees, the plants, the 
flowers, the clouds, the sky and the free open, such 
was his conception of duty that he suppressed all his 
longings and doubly concentrated his mind with de- 
liberate purpose upon the work he was set to do. 

When the time came, however, Burbank gladly left 
the shops for the fields, discovered his vocation and 
the Burbank potato, and soon thereafter circum- 
stances, not gold, forced him to California. 

He reached Santa Rosa in 1875. Then misfortune 
came to him in the shape of illness, which quickly 
robbed him of his small hoard of dollars. He was glad 
to take refuge in an empty chick en- house, and accept 
whatever odd jobs he could get. One day, as I drove 
with him from Santa Rosa to his proving grounds at 
Sevastopol, we passed a buggy driven by a man who 
responded very elaborately to Mr. Burlmnk's friendly 



LUTHER BURBANK 2>^^ 

nod and simple salutation. After we had passed, with 
a whimsical smile upon his face, he turned to me and 
said: " I never see that man but I am reminded of an 
incident of those days of my poverty and distress, when 
I was glad to do anything that came to hand. One day 
I heard that that man was building a house. I went 
to him and asked him for the job of shingling it. He 
asked me what I would do it for. The regular price 
was two dollars and a half a thousand, but I was so 
anxious for the work that I offered to do it for one 
dollar and seventy-five cents. ' All right,' he said, 
' come and begin to-morrow.' But I had no shingling 
hammer and all the cash I had in the world was sev- 
enty-five cents, which I at once expended in purchasing 
the necessary hammer. Next morning when I reached 
the job, my new hammer in hand all ready to go to work, 
I was surprised and — what shall I say — dismayed, 
to find another man already at work, while the owner 
calmly came to me and said: ' I guess you'll have to 
let that job go, as this man here has undertaken to do it 
for one dollar a thousand.' 

" How disappointed I was! I had spent my last cent, 
had a hammer that was no use to me now, and no job. 
But I kept a stiff upper lip and work soon came, and 
I've never been quite so hard up since." 

Harwood, in speaking of this period of Burbank's 
life, graphically says: " The man who was to become 
the foremost figure in the world in his line of work, and 
who was to pave the way by his own discoveries and 
creations for others of all lands to follow in his foot- 
steps, was a stranger in a strange land, close to starva- 



388 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

tion, penniless, beset by disease, hard by the gates 
of death. And yet never for an instant did this heroic 
figure lose hope, never did he abandon confidence in 
himself, not once did he swerve from the path he had 
marked out. In the midst of all he kept an unshaken 
faith. He accepted the trials that came, not as a matter 
of course, not tamely, nor with any mock heroics, but 
as a passing necessity. His resolution was of iron, his 
will of steel, his heart of gold; he was fighting in the 
splendid armor of a clean life." 

Slowly he regained his health, doing odd jobs as he 
was able, and at last had money enough to secure a 
small plot of ground, begin a nursery, and, at the same 
time, carry out the plan formed years ago, — become 
an improver and creator. 

Yet, in all his experimenting he was innately modest. 
There was no blare of trumpets. Note this well, young 
men and women. He went his own way; followed the 
vision that he alone saw; but he did it reverently, re- 
spectfully, modestly. There were no loud declarations 
as to the ignorance of the horticulturalists of the past ; 
no open defiance of the horticulturalists of the present ; 
but simply a quiet, calm, silent, modest sailing of his 
own ship over the unknown sea. Too often the young 
want to do as Burbank did, but they spoil their lives 
by the blatancy of their methods, the immodesty of their 
self-conceit, and the rudeness of their criticisms of 
those whose lives have demonstrated that they were 
real benefactors to the race. In a speech made at the 
banquet in Luther Burbank's honor, given by the 
California Board of Trade in San Francisco, California, 



LUTHER BURBANK 389 

John P. Irish beautifully referred to this quality in 
Burbank's character: 

" Mr. Burbank has conferred upon California the 
imperishable honor of association with his name and his 
work. That work has been prosecuted by him with a 
devotion that thought of no personal gain. The fame of 
it has gone forth to the world. His life has been so 
quiet, his absorption so complete, that Californians 
know him only by his creations, whose benefits they 
enjoy. A gentleman who is here tells me that when 
in London, entertained hospitably by an English 
gentleman, his host talked only of Luther Burbank, 
and the Californian was ashamed to admit that he had 
never met Mr. Burbank and did not know the location 
of his wonder-working efforts. When he left he asked 
his host what he could do to repay his great hospitality, 
and the Englishman said: ' Send me a branch from 
one of Luther Burbank's plums, from his own nursery, 
that I may graft it on a stock in my garden, and you 
will more than repay all.' " 

And, while it is somewhat running ahead of the story, 
it is appropriate that it should here be noted that, in the 
words of one of his own neighbors. Judge Burnett: 
" It is pleasing to reflect that the distinction which 
has come to him unsought has not disturbed the splendid 
equipose of his nature. The current of his life flows 
on with the same serenity, purity and sweetness that 
characterized his youth and early manhood." 

Note well, then, his modesty when he began his 
work, and also when, success attained, that work 
brought him world-wide fame, honor, wealth, and 



390 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the plaudits of the great minds of earth. When I first 
visited him in his home, this was the earliest impression 
I received. As I then wTOte: 

" Though honored by kings and princes, by scientists 
and leaders of men the world over, he is the simplest 
kind of man at home. There is none of the haughtiness, 
or pride, or self-conceit that would have taken pos- 
session of a smaller man, and that would ha^'e shown 
itself in his daily intercourse with his subordinates. 
While they all revere and respect him, honor and 
obey him, they all feel his simplicity of character, the 
pure democratic soul within him, and one and all speak 
to him, and of him, in the everyday name of ' Boss.' 
But it is when you hear the sweet intonation of the 
voices of the maids in the house and the men in the 
fields as they thus speak, that you feel and compre- 
hend the friendliness of the man. 

" His neighbors in Santa Rosa (where he lives) and 
Sevastopol (where his testing grounds are), and on the 
seven-mile drive thither, have the same warm, kindly, 
democratic feeling towards him, and he responds as 
cheerily to the salutation of the wood-hauler and the 
potato-digger as he does to that of the banker or rail- 
way magnate, and we met all kinds as we drove from 
Santa Rosa to Sevastopol and back." 

On the occasion of my visit referred to, I wTOte: 

" When night-time came, he invited the ' help ' to 
the lawn at the rear of the house that I might tell them 
a few experiences among the Indians, and as we sat 
there the telephone bell rang. He answered it, and 
on returning, called out as he approached : ' I've 



LUTHER BURBANK 391 

prevented that thing from annoying us again by taking 
off the bell.' Then, as happy and joyous and free as a 
boy, he threw his hat on the grass, went down on his 
hands and knees, and came to us turning a somer- 
sault." 

Here is an unspoiled king, the true democrat, the 
man who actually lives his belief in the brotherhood 
of man. Here is no false dignity, no pomp, no cere- 
mony. His dignity is in his life. He commands respect 
by his inherent power, and needs none of the haughtiness 
of the factitious dignity that is not sure of its position. 
His humble attitude is the sign of his soul's self-con- 
scious supremacy, — a supremacy which sees the 
dignity of every other soul. 

Early in his nursery career in California, he dis- 
played that daring of mind, and audacity of execution 
that are inseparably connected with the independent 
thinker — another manifestation of the true California 
spirit. Harwood tells an illustrative story: 

" One day there came to the young nurseryman 
an order . , . from a man who was going to start a 
large prune ranch. He wanted twenty thousand young 
trees to set out. It would take, in the ordinary course 
of events, from two and a half to three years for a 
nurseryman to raise the trees, but this was a hurry-up 
order; if it was to be filled, it must be filled in nine 
months. 

" He took the order. With all haste he scoured the 
country for men and boys to plant almonds. It was 
late in the season and the almond seed was the only one 
which would sprout at that time among all the trees 



392 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

that were suitable for his plans. It grows very rapidly, 
too, and this was taken into account. In a compara- 
tively short time the young shoots were big enough for 
budding. Twenty thousand prune buds were in 
readiness, were budded into the growing almonds, and 
the young trees started forward in their race for the 
prize. When the nine months were up, the twenty 
thousand prune trees were ready. Nature had been 
outwitted, or, better put, had been led to outdo herself ; 
the fruit-grower was delighted; the young nurseryman 
was a good many dollars in pocket. To-day, twenty 
years afterward, one of the finest prune orchards in 
California or the world is growing from these trees." 

Another of the marked characteristics of Luther 
Burbank is his readiness to acknowledge his ignorance. 
I have heard questions put to him again and again, 
to which the questioners undoubtedly expected the 
answer of knowledge. Without any more hesitation 
or consciousness than when he is able to answer, he 
promptly replied: "I do not know!" "I cannot 
tell," and thus, again, revealed the innate greatness of 
his soul. 

While he was able to make money rapidly, and did so, 
he was absolutely uninfluenced by any monetary con- 
sideration in the carrying out of his larger plans. As 
a nurseryman he had a keen eye to business, as any 
honest man ought to have. But when it came to his ex- 
periments, even his few friends who knew, deemed him 
reckless almost to the point of censure. For instance, 
he personally assured me that he had burned over half 
a million plum trees in the production of the wonderful 




LUTHER BURBANK S OLD HUME, SANTA ROSA, CAL. 



Page 391 




LUTHER BURBANK S NEW HOME, SIDE VIEW, SANTA ROSA, 
CALIFORNIA. 

Page 392 




PROFESSOR AND MRS. T. S. C. LOWE. 



Page ilO 



LUTHER BURBANK 393 

trees that bear his name. Most of these trees could 
have been sold, and they were passably good trees. 
But passably good was not good enough. His aim was 
high, and he would not, for mere money, lower that 
aim in any one thing, for if lowered at all, the standard 
necessarily was lowered, and to keep that standard at 
its maximum of elevation was the meaning of life itself 
to Luther Burbank. 

Perhaps at this point some curious reader may ask: 
" How does Mr. Burbank actually determine what trees 
he will keep and what destroy ? " As I have had the 
gratification and pleasure of seeing him at work in this 
very task, I will explain. It must be borne in mind that 
the process of weeding out, of selection, takes years 
to complete. For instance: Out of a thousand trees 
examined this month, a hundred may be retained, the 
others destroyed. Of this hundred, the weeding out 
process next year may leave only ten, and the year later, 
only one, or perhaps not even one. Two assistants fol- 
lowed us, as we passed down the row. Before we 
began, he rapidly suggested to me what he was aiming 
at. First of all the tree as a whole must be shapely — 
it must look well. Its leaves must be possessed of 
certain qualities, for thus he determined its climatic 
hardihood. The skin of the fruit must be of good color, 
perfect and suitable shape, and of the proper strength. 
The inside of the fruit must be firm, juicy, sweet and 
of good flavor. 

One glance, and all the first requirements were 
examined into. A representative plum was plucked, 
perhaps two or three, and while I was tasting, Mr. 



394 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Burbank had decided all he wanted to know. One 
glance determined the skin qualities, a feel, and a taste 
the interior fruit qualities, and almost as quickly as 
I can write it, he passed the trees one after another 
saying, after testing the fruit, "Kill!" "Kill!" 
"Keep!" "Kill!" etc. A white string tied to the 
tree by the assistant signified " Keep!" a black one 
"Kill!" 

While watching this process, I learned another of 
Mr. Burbank's California characteristics. He is the 
man of absolute authority. He does not delegate to 
any one what he himself has to determine. He knows 
what he is doing, and he does it, with fearless self- 
confidence. As his long-time friend, Professor Wick- 
son, says, speaking of his innate modesty and how easy 
it is for the casual observer to misunderstand this: 
" Those who meet ^Ir. Burbank but casually are . . . 
apt to magnify his reticence until they see in it timidity, 
self-depreciation, inexperience, embarrassment, and 
the like. All these forms of weakness are absent from 
the man. He is self-confident but not self-assertive. 
He is fearless and not to be easily turned from the way 
he expects to go, but he does not insist that others 
shall go his way. He seldom errs in his judgment of 
men and he usually gives the loud and effusive visitor 
the right of way in conversation, studying him mean- 
time with a wondering eye." 

His reticence is really the reticence of genius. How 
can he talk with those who do not understand? 

Another revelation came to me as we walked through 
the proving-grounds at Sevastopol. I noticed that 



LUTHER BURBANK 395 

none of his men smoked or used tobacco in any form, 
and commented to Mr. Burbank upon the fact. 
" That," said he, " is imperative in our work. The 
processes of Nature sometimes are so delicate and 
fine that, if we would aid her, the nerves must be of 
the steadiest, and under the most perfect control. 
This, I speedily found out in the beginning of my work, 
was impossible with the tobacco user. I have never 
used the weed myself, and it cannot be used by any of 
my helpers! " 

I scarcely deem it necessary to say that this heroic 
soul is inflexible in his honor and truthfulness. No 
one ever bought a single plant from him and was con- 
sciously deceived by him as to its qualities or name. 
Here was no sharp practitioner, willing to sell anything, 
even his own honor, if he could get a price. It is too 
well known that in California, as elsewhere, nursery- 
men (and others) have sold inferior stock, or ^^Tong 
varieties rather than lose a sale. Never once, in Bur- 
bank's whole career, was such a thing knowingly done. 

It was by such faithfulness to principle that he ulti- 
mately built up his business so that it was paying him 
an annual income of not less than ten thousand dollars 
a year. Here was an abundant fortune for a man of 
his modest requirements. Why not retire and take 
an easy time, travel, see the world, see what other 
horticulturalists have done, visit Kew and other noted 
gardens? Some men might have done this, but not 
Luther Burbank. Though constantly experimenting 
as far as his time and opportunities allowed he was ever 
looking forward to the day he could give up his purely 



396 HEROES OF CALIEORNIA 

commercial work as a nurseryman and devote the 
whole of his life to the one work to which he was so 
earnestly consecrated. He knew the price he would 
have to pay, but he resolutely faced that. Herein, 
again, he showed his possession of that long-patient, 
never- wearying California spirit, that sees its object far, 
far ahead, and unswervingly works, through every 
difficulty, over every obstacle, towards it. 

He sold his business and resolutely set to work to 
carry out his experiments at the expense oj his fortune. 
He not only used up all the interest he got from his 
invested money, but he soon began to eat into the prin- 
cipal. Year after year he worked, steadily sticking to 
his costly experiments, and seeing his fortune dwindle 
and melt like snow in the afternoon sun, but never for a 
moment did he falter. He determined to keep on as 
long as his money held out, then, said he, in talking to me 
about this period: " I was willing to begin over again. 
I felt sure I could then earn enough to live on, and if 
not, — if I had grown too old and feeble, the good God 
would see that I was cared for in some way." And he 
said it reverently, for, though he no longer holds to the 
old Puritan faith of his childhood as far as creeds and 
doctrines are concerned, his nature is essentially rev- 
erent and religious. 

It was while he was thus unselfishly and quietly using 
up his fortune, though scarce any one knew what 
he was doing, for he never told of his work for the 
benefit of the world, that the recognition from the 
scientific world came that ultimately led to the placing 
of his fortunes on a solid financial footing. 



LUTHER BURBANK 397 

It has often been said that Burbank is no scientist. 
Nonsense! Listen to the judgment of one of the great- 
est of America's pure scientists, David Starr Jordan: 
" It seems to me that Mr. Burbank, while primarily 
an artist, is, in his general attitude, essentially a man 
of science. Academic he doubtless is not, but the 
qualities we call scientific are not necessarily bred in 
the academy. Science is human experience, tested and 
set in order. Within the range of moulding plants, 
Mr. Burbank has read carefully, and thought carefully, 
maturing his own generalizations and resting them on 
the basis of his own knowledge. Within the range of 
his own experience, he is an original and logical thinker, 
and his conclusions are in general most sound. . . . 
In his field of the application of our knowledge of 
heredity, selection and crossing in the development 
of plants, he stands unique in the world. No one else, 
whatever his appliances, has done as much as Burbank, 
or disclosed as much of the laws governing these phe- 
nomena. Burbank has worked for years alone, not 
understood and not appreciated, at a constant financial 
loss, and for this reason, — that his instincts and pur- 
poses are essentially those of a scientific man. . . . 
In his own way, Burbank belongs in the class of Farady 
and the long array of self-taught great men who lived 
while the universities were spending their strength 
on fine points of grammar and hazy conceptions of 
philosophy." . . . 

Then Dr. Jordan closes with these strong words: 
" If his place is outside the temple of science, there are 
not many of the rest of us who will be found fit to enter." 



398 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Other recognized scientists, like Hugo de Vries 
and Professors E. J. Wickson, Loeb and Vernon L. 
Kellogg, confirm Dr. Jordan's assertions, after pro- 
longed studies of Burbank and his methods, hence any 
charge of charlatanism is both ungenerous and untrue. 
He is a practical, as opposed to a theoretical, scientist. 

Herein is another of the elements of the California 
spirit, through and by which the academic world is to 
be influenced. Crystallization in a living organization 
is the precursor of death. The California spirit is 
full of life. It refuses to crystallize, — to state finals, 
to assert definite, fixed ultimates. Life is tentative, 
changeable. The settled of to-day (in the minds of 
men) is proven to be the unsettled of to-morrow. The 
academic spirit, however progressive, too often is cock- 
sure. The California spirit says " Wait awhile! It is 
not necessary to state ultimate conclusions yet!" In 
this spirit Burbank has done his work. Therefore he 
has transcended the conservatives. Yet such has been 
his thoroughness, his skill, his well-balanced judgment, 
his results, that, in spite of themselves, the narrow- 
minded and jealous, even among academicians, have 
been compelled to recognize his scientific mastership. 

And here let me call attention to another result of 
Burbank's work. Though his methods have been 
known to scientists for years, and practised in a measure 
by many, his achievements have so directed the popular 
attention to the subject that he has awakened more 
minds to the possibilities of plant mutation than all 
the scientists of the world combined. This, surely, is an 
object to be desired, to awaken, to stimulate, to broaden 



LUTHER BURBANK 399 

the intellect of the masses. The California spirit is 
essentially democratic. It believes in no other special 
privileges than those that come to a man by natural 
inheritance or hard work. It would have all men enjoy 
all there is to enjoy, — know all there is to know, — 
be all man can be. The knowledge of what Burbank 
has done, spread abroad among the children of the poor, 
has done more to quicken the general intellect of the 
race, to produce those soul- visions that lead to mental 
and spiritual uplift, than time can ever tell. The benefit 
is as far-reaching as the life of the race. 

And yet few know or dream that all this outer work 
of Burbank's has only been the preparation for a larger 
work upon which, in early life, his heart was intensely 
set. Plants and flowers have been the means to that 
end. His real object has been to fmd out ho^v the 
great God worked for the improvement of plant life, 
and then, when those secrets were discovered, he hoped 
he could find the ear and attention of his fellow- men 
to show how these same principles could be applied 
to the improvement of the human race. 

He felt that if he became an acknowledged expert — 
recognized throughout the world as a practical master 
of the laws governing the development and improve- 
ment of plants, he could " speak as one having au- 
thority," and the world would listen and heed in regard 
to the improvement of the human race. 

During the years of his life the cries of the ill-born 
have been sounding in his ears, the groans of the sick, 
the moans of the crippled and diseased, the deformed, 
the lame, the halt, the palsied, the blind. He knew 



400 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

that these groans and cries of anguish, these wails of 
agony and despair were not part of the plan of the Al- 
mighty and Loving Father of men. He knew it was 
never the intention of the Allwise that so many innocent 
children should be born to a few months of speechless 
agony and then a horrible death. So, with a heart full 
of love to humanity, with his ears ever open to the 
cry of the poor and suffering, he determined to do all 
he could to teach men that such pain and suffering were 
unnecessary and unnatural, that they could be pre- 
vented, and that the first care of humanity was the 
breeding of a healthy, strong and happy race. 

When the California Board of Trade tendered him 
a complimentary banquet in San Francisco, where 
governors, United States senators, college presidents, 
judges and other notables assembled to do him honor, 
this was the theme upon which he spoke. His words 
were a great surprise. Up to that time not even his 
intimate friends had known what was in his thought. 
But the words then spoken will continue to echo around 
the world, quickening the hearts of men and women to 
a higher idealism in the cultivation of the human plant. 

Here, then, to me, is Luther Burbank's greatest 
proof of heroism and deep spirituality. He has not 
worked for fame, for honor, for applause, for wealth. 
He has worked for his fellow- men, and particularly for 
the child, the unborn child, that, when it was born, 
it might have the joy, the happiness, the perpetual 
pleasure of being welcome to this life, and as well born 
as knowledge, science and love combined could accom- 
plish. 



CHAPTER XXXVI 

THE SYMPATHETIC HERO OF LAND REFORM, 
HENRY GEORGE 

/^NE may count upon the fingers all the religionists, 
^^ scientists, lawmakers or philosophers who have 
materially changed the current of the thought of the 
world. To those, even of powerful intellect, the task of 
giving a new trend to the thoughts and actions of men 
must appear either hopeless or impossible. First the 
reformatory, revolutionary idea must be found, and 
then it must be so presented that it takes possession 
of the mind of the world. If a man declares that he 
has such a thought, he is liable to be charged by his 
fellows with an overweening vanity, an arrogance 
that stamps him with a great moral weakness. On the 
other hand, if he have such an idea and fails to give it 
to the world, it can have no reformatory effect, 

Henry George was born September 3, 1839, in Phila- 
delphia, Pa., but it was not until he had become a 
printer and was working in San Francisco that the 
" flaming idea " took full possession of his soul, though 
for years he had been pondering the subject. When only 
eighteen years of age the question had been aroused 
in his mind in conversation with an old miner, who had 
suggested that as the country grew in population and 
material prosperity, the condition of those who had 



402 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

to work for a living would grow, not better, but worse. 
Or, later, as he himself states it: "Like a flash it 
came upon me that . . . with the growth of population, 
land grows in value, and the men who work it must pay 
more for the privilege." 

This was the beginning of the thought that was to 
grow and expand until it changed the destinies of 
nations. In the year 1868 he wrote an article for the 
newly founded Overland Monthly, of which Bret 
Harte was editor, entitled " What the Railroad Will 
Bring Us." It is a ten-page article, some seven 
thousand words in length, and reveals the student and 
thinker. Here, in his first notable contribution to 
literature, he shows the growing power of his idea. 
In stating what the building of the Union and Central 
Pacific Railways will bring to California, he says: 
" The sharpest sense of Americans — the keen sense 
of gain, which certainly does not lose its keenness in 
our bracing air — is the first to realize what is coming 
with our railroad. All over the State land is apprecia- 
ting; fortunes are being made in a day by buying and 
parcelling out Spanish ranches; the government 
surveyors and registrars are busy; speculators are 
grappling the public domain by the hundreds of thou- 
sands of acres, while for miles in every direction around 
San Francisco, ground is being laid off into homestead 
lots." 

In concluding his article, which, in the main, is a 
wise appreciation of the good the railroad would do, 
he still reverts to the theme that was ultimately to 
take full possession of his soul, for he declares: " The 



HENRY GEORGE 403 

truth is, that the completion of the raihoad and the 
consequent great increase of business and population 
will not be a benefit to all of us, but only to a portion. 
As a general rule (liable of course to exceptions), 
those who have, it will make wealthier; for those who 
have not, it will make it more difficult to get. Those 
who have land, mines, established businesses, special 
abilities of certain kinds, will become richer for it, 
and find increased opportunities; those who have only 
their own labor will become poorer, and find it harder 
to get ahead — first because it will take more capital 
to buy land or to get into business; and second, be- 
cause, as competition reduces the wages of labor, this 
capital will be harder for them to obtain. 

"What, for instance, does the rise in land mean? 
Several things, but certainly and prominently this: 
that it will be harder in future for a poor man to get a 
farm or a homestead lot. In some sections of the State, 
land which twelve months ago could have been had 
for a dollar an acre, cannot now be bought for less 
than fifteen dollars. In other words, the settler who 
last year might have had at once a farm of his own, 
must now either go to work on wages for someone else, 
pay rent, or buy on time; in either case being com- 
pelled to give to the capitalist a large proportion of the 
earnings which, had he arrived a year ago, he might 
have had all for himself. And as proprietorship is 
thus rendered more difficult and less profitable to the 
poor, more are forced into the labor market to compete 
with each other, and to cut down the rate of wages — ■ 
that is, to make the division of the joint production 



404 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

between labor and capital more in favor of capital 
and less in favor of labor," 

Other effects of the centralization of wealth are 
forcefully presented, and it is clear to see that the 
young writer by no means regarded the incoming of 
the railway as an unmixed good. When, a little later, 
he saw the actual results he had prophesied and, in 
addition, realized that the railroad was becoming more 
grasping and determined upon absolute control of the 
State, he began to speak out even more clearly against 
the system which made this possible. While he could 
see clearly enough that the railway builders had un- 
dertaken herculean labors, and that they were striving 
with bravery even to heroism to accomplish them, 
he also saw that the land grants and subsidies of both 
State and nation were incorrect in principle, for they 
saddled the people of the future with burdens they had 
no right to bear. Accordingly, as he had already 
graduated from the typesetter's case to the editorial 
chair, and was sending out forceful articles both East 
and West, he began to attack the railroad policies 
with characteristic energy and determination. This 
required a courage and independence rare in young 
men, — he was but thirty years of age. For, as his 
son well states in his Life of Henry George: " The 
Central Pacific had become the overshadowing in- 
fluence in California. It owned or controlled most 
of the press, swayed the legislature, bent the courts, 
governed banks, and moved as a mighty force in 
politics. It was quick to recognize talent, and as 
quick to engage or reward it. Out of imperial coffers 



HENRY GEORGE 405 

it had fortunes to bestow. With a word it could make 
men, and so far as the masses were concerned, could 
as easily break men. Of those who could not, or would 
not serve, it asked only silence, merely immunity from 
attack." 

But George could neither be bought nor silenced. 
For a time he edited an Oakland paper, and then he 
was made editor and given a fourth interest in the 
Sacramento Reporter. Into the work of this paper he 
threw himself heart and soul. The Central Pacific 
Railway had already received from State and nation 
large grants of lands, bonds, and subsidies, but they 
were calling for more. Viewing things as he did, 
George could do no other than oppose them, which 
he did forcefully and constantly. Finding he could 
not be silenced, the railway quietly bought control of 
the paper, thus taking away from him the organ in which 
he expressed and disseminated his ideas, compelling 
him to sell out his interest and seek a new method 
of sending his surging thoughts broadcast. For some 
time past he had ceased to take his opinions unques- 
tioned from books. He had learned to do his own 
thinking. Ideas were rapidly formulating themselves 
into a clear philosophy. 

He saw the public lands of the United States, which 
seemed so vast as to be practically illimitable, being 
given away with a reckless disregard of the future. 
He saw that the ultimate result of this would be that 
in a comparatively short time much land would be in 
few hands. This he regarded as unjust and contrary 
to true political economy. The result was that as 



4o6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

soon as his thought became clarified in his own mind, 
— after several pubhc lectures upon the subject, — 
he issued the first of a series of works that were ma- 
terially to influence the thought and political action 
of the larger part of the civilized world. This pamphlet 
is composed of forty-eight pages and cover, printed in 
small type, and bears the title: Our Land and Land 
Policy, National and State, and its date is 187 1. An 
original copy of this brochure is now worth its weight 
in gold. 

In this pamphlet Henry George discusses the ex- 
tent of the public domain, the prospective value of land, 
the land policy of the United States, public sale and^ 
private entry, and donations of public lands, especially 
with relation to the railroads. 

He then proceeds to a statement of the specific 
conditions that existed in California at that time in 
regard to the monopolization of land, first through the 
Mexican land grants, then the railroad grants, and 
the private entry and scrip locations. He fearlessly 
exposes the manifest injustice to the great masses of 
the people in these monopolizations, and then pro- 
ceeds to an arraignment of the State for its manage- 
ment of State lands, swamp lands, etc., and makes 
specific charges against certain land grabbers who, he 
claims, by fraud secured from twenty thousand acres 
to over one hundred thousand acres each. Then, 
after giving a short list of those who own some " two 
million acres apiece," others three or four hundred 
thousand acres, one firm four hundred and fifty 
thousand acres, " around one patch of which, 



HENRY GEORGE 407 

alone, they have one hundred and sixty miles of 
fence," and so on, down to those who hold but the 
small amount of from eighty thousand to twenty 
thousand acres, he says, speaking of this latter 
class: " They are so numerous, that, though I have a 
long list, I am afraid to name them for fear of making 
invidious distinctions." Then he continues: "These 
men are the lords of California — lords as truly as 
ever were ribboned dukes or belted barons in any 
country under the sun. We have discarded the titles 
of an earlier age, but we have preserved the sub- 
stance. . . . They are our Land Lords just as truly. 
If they do not exert the same influence, and wield the 
same power, and enjoy the same wealth, it is merely 
because our population is but sLx hundred thousand, 
and their tenantry have not yet arrived. Of the mil- 
lions of acres of our virgin soil which their vast domains 
enclose, they are absolute masters, and upon it no 
human creature can come, save by their permission 
and upon their terms. From the zenith above, to the 
centre of the earth below (so our laws run), the uni- 
verse is theirs." 

That ]Mr. George was not a blatant demagogue 
closing his eyes to facts is proven by the concluding 
paragraphs to this portion of his argument. He says: 
" Let me not be understood as reproaching the men 
who have honestly acquired large tracts of land. As 
the world goes they are not to be blamed. If the 
people put saddles on their backs, they must ex- 
pect somebody to jump astride to ride. If we must 
have an aristocracy, I would prefer that my children 



4o8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

should be members of it rather than of the common 
herd. While as for the men who have resorted to 
dishonest means, the probabilities are that most of 
them enjoy more of the respect of their fellows, and 
its fruits, than if they had been honest and got less 
land." 

The balance of his pamphlet is then devoted to the 
philosophical discussion that later eventuated in his well- 
known land theories, which it is not my purpose to 
discuss in these pages, save, later, to state merely 
their broad, general principles. 

His theories once given to the world, he was called 
upon frequently to expound and enlarge upon them, 
both in public and private, by voice and pen. His 
first formal speech on the subject was given in August, 
1876, at Dashaway Hall, San Francisco, when he was 
thirty-seven years old. He saw therein another en- 
larged opportunity for propagating his ideas, and from 
that time forward deliberately trained himself as a 
public speaker. The following year he was invited 
to lecture at the University of California on Political 
Economy. He steered clear of all unsettled questions, 
and stated that what he had to say was more suggestive 
than didactic. Yet he did not hesitate, in his direct 
and unmistakable fashion, to condemn the writers 
of text-books on political economy for their conscious 
or unconscious upholding of the whole capitalistic 
system, thus antagonizing the feelings and prejudices 
of those who had most to gain by a study of such 
books. 

Said he: " The name of political economy has been 



HENRY GEORGE 409 

constantly invoked against every effort of the working 
classes to increase their wages or decrease their hours 
of labor. . . . Take the best and most extensively 
circulated text-books. While they insist upon freedom 
for capital, while they seek to justify on the ground 
of utility the selfish greed that seeks to pile fortune 
on fortune, and the niggard spirit that steels the heart 
to the wail of distress, w^hat sign of substantial promise 
do they hold out to the working man save that he 
should refrain from rearing children? 

" What can we expect when hands that should 
offer bread thus hold out a stone? Is it in human 
nature that the masses of men, vaguely but keenly 
conscious of the injustice of social conditions, feeling 
that they are somehow cramped and hurt, without 
knowing what cramps and hurts them, should wel- 
come truth in this partial form; that they should 
take to a science which, as it is presented to them, 
seems but to justify injustice, to canonize selfishness 
by throwing around it the halo of utility, and to present 
Herod rather than Vincent de Paul as the typical bene- 
factor of humanity ? " 

Speaking of the simplicity of the science, he must 
have made the learned professors feel quite uncom- 
fortable : 

" For the study of political economy you need no 
special knowledge, no extensive library, no costly 
laboratory. You do not even need text-books nor 
teachers, if you will but think for yourselves. All 
that you need is care in reducing complex phenomena 
to their elements, in distinguishing the essential from 



4IO HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the accidental, and in applying the simple laws of 
human action with which you are familiar. Take 
nobody's opinion for granted; ' try all things; hold 
fast that which is good.' In this way the opinions of 
others will help you by their suggestions, elucidations, 
and corrections; otherwise they will be to you but 
as words to a parrot. . . . All this array of professors, 
all this paraphernalia of learning, cannot educate 
a man. They can but help him to educate himself. 
Here you may obtain the tools; but they will be useful 
only to him who can use them. A monkey with a mi- 
croscope, a mule packing a library, are fit emblems of 
the men — and unfortunately, they are plenty — 
who pass through the whole educational machinery 
and come out but learned fools, crammed with knowl- 
edge which they cannot use, all the more pitiable, all 
the more contemptible, all the more in the way of 
real progress, because they pass, with themselves and 
others, as educated men." 

This university address was followed by a Fourth 
of July oration devoted to " Liberty," which, in view 
of his later teachings, can only be regarded as one of 
the opportunities offered him for clearer formulation 
of his thought. It was a scathing denunciation, though 
veiled to many who heard it in the flowers of rhetoric, 
of those who apostrophized Liberty with their tongues, 
but in their lives worshipped only that god that gave 
them liberty to tyrannize over their fellows. 

Now occurred a period of great financial depression 
throughout the whole country, and California felt it 
keenly. To Henry George it brought distress and 



HENRY GEORGE 411 

poverty for a time, yet out of that distress was born 
the book Progress and Poverty that was to give an 
upHft to the political morals of the world. He began 
to write in September, 1877. His original intention was 
to prepare a magazine article dealing with the fact 
that, as humanity progressed materially, it seemed 
unable to prevent increasing poverty. Writing about 
the thoughts of his heart with a daring courage, he 
attacked the " most gigantic vested right in the world," 
— land monopoly. At the same time he seemed bathed 
in an atmosphere of his own creation which carried 
sympathy for his fellows wherever he went. As his 
biographer says; " Sympathy was, perhaps, Henry 
George's predominant trait of character. It had made 
him heartsick at sight of the want and suffering in the 
great city; it had impelled him to search for the cause 
and the cure. In the bonds of friendship it carried 
him into the other's thoughts and feelings. Intuitively 
he put himself into the other man's place and looked 
at the world through those other eyes. . . . He had 
not studied man from the closet. He had all his rugged 
life been at school with humanity, and to him the type 
of humanity was the common man. Civilization built 
up from the common man, flourished as the common 
man flourished, decayed and fell with the common 
man's loss of independence. He himself had climbed 
out on swaying yards like the commonest sailor, car- 
ried his blankets as a prospector and common miner, 
felt something of the hardships of farming, tramped 
dusty roads as a pedlar, had every experience as a 
printer, and suffered the physical and mental tortures of 



412 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

hunger. Learning and pride and power and tradition 
and precedent went for little with him; the human 
heart, the moral purpose, became the core thing." 

For a year and a half he thought and studied, wrote 
and rewrote. None knew that he was working on a 
book that should shake the greed of the world; he 
himself only knew that he was declaring what he felt 
was a higher truth than man had yet seen; and to 
not a soul did he explain that his writing was the result 
of a vision and a vow to which his soul demanded that 
he be true. When the book was finally completed, he 
flung himself upon his knees in his solitude and wept like 
a child, committing the results to God. This was learned 
after his death from a letter he wrote to a religious friend. 

Now came the task of finding a publisher. The 
Appletons, Harpers and others refused it on various 
grounds, but mainly because it was too revolutionary. 
So at last he and his friends went to the cases and set 
it up themselves, had plates made, and the first edition 
was printed in San Francisco under the title : Political 
Economy of the Social Problem. An interesting fact 
in connection with this home-made edition is that 
his closest friend and helper, both at the type stand and 
the desk, was Dr. Edward Robeson Taylor, poet and 
humanitarian, later the reform mayor of San Fran- 
cisco after the downfall of Schmitz. Mr. James H. 
Barry, for many years the editor of the San Francisco 
Star, also helped him set type and print this edition. 

Two weeks after he sent a copy of the San Francisco 
edition to his father in Philadelphia, the Appletons wTOte 
that they were now ready to publish it on a royalty basis. 



HENRY GEORGE 413 

Among letters received from notable men to whom 
he sent his first edition was one from Sir George Grey 
of New Zealand, the country which afterwards based 
its land policies entirely upon the principles George 
had enunciated. Sir George wrote: "I have already 
read a large part of the book. I regard it as one of the 
ablest works on the great questions of the time, which 
has come under my notice. It will be of great use to me. 
... It has cheered me much to find that there is so able 
a man working in California, upon subjects on which I 
believe the whole future of mankind now mainly hangs." 

While the book is a large book of over five hundred 
pages, it is mainly an exemplification of the matter 
presented in "his pamphlet of 1871 — Our Land and 
Land Policy — already discussed. Poverty and its 
causes, the present distribution of wealth, and the 
effect of material progress upon such distribution, 
bring the reader to the presentation of the remedy. As 
he says in his Introduction: "This identification of 
the cause that associates poverty with progress points 
to the remedy, but it is to so radical a remedy that I 
have next deemed it necessary to inquire whether there 
is any other remedy. Beginning the investigation again 
from another starting-point, I have passed in examina- 
tion the measures and tendencies currently advocated 
or trusted in for the improvement of the condition of the 
laboring masses. The result of this investigation is 
to prove the preceding one, as it shows that nothing 
short 0} making land common property con permanently 
relieve poverty and check the tendency 0} wages to the 
starvation- point, ' ' 



414 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Whatever one may think of this conclusion, the book 
is a wonderful book. It is a classic as cogent and 
powerful as Adam Smith's Wealth oj Nations, or John 
Stuart Mill's Political Economy, with far more of 
red blood, human sympathy and democratic principle. 
Some chapters, especially the last, on " The Problem 
of Individual Life," are thrilling in the extreme, and 
call upon the laggards, the selfish and the indifferent 
with trumpet tones for higher, nobler, better living. 

At first it won its way slowly into public favor, and 
then with bounds and leaps. It was later followed with 
other contributions upon the same subject, and as 
George himself grew more sure — not of his subject, 
but of his method of public presentation • — he became a 
platform propagandist of great power. 

It was some time before the common people knew 
their prophet, and the truth he had enunciated for 
their deliverance, but when they did learn it, their 
confidence and affection knew no bounds. 

It needed that some one of themselves, not trained 
in the schools and universities, not warped by the 
ideas of divine right, superior class, and preservation 
of the existing order, not imbued wdth the wholly 
materialistic idea of the survival of the fittest, or logical 
corollary that the strong physically or intellectually, 
have the right, because they have the power, to control 
the weak, one who did not accept Pope's dictum that 
" Whatever is, is right," but one who believed in the 
teaching of Him who said: " All things whatsoever 
ye would that men should do to you, do ye even so 
to them; " I say it needed that some one who had 



HENRY GEORGE 415 

not been brought up to regard wealth and its con- 
sequent luxury as his " divinely ordered " right, but 
one who was poor and lowly and a worker should 
become their champion. How else could their cause 
be presented save by one who knew it as his every-day 
life ? No man can knowingly wTite on all the phases 
of political economy who does not himself belong or 
has not belonged to the great working masses of the 
people. 

Henry George was truly one of the masses. His great 
heart throbbed as did that of the Master's to the woes 
of the needy and oppressed, and when they knew him 
" the common people heard him gladly." 

There is not space in this chapter to record his 
journeyings and lecturings to and fro in America, 
Canada, England, Ireland, Australia, and " around 
the world." He li\ed to see thousands of philosophers 
and statesmen converted, in the main, to the doctrines 
he had enunciated, and to-day the governments of 
New Zealand, New South Wales, and other English- 
speaking peoples are largely conducted on those prin- 
ciples. The great political conflict that raged in England 
in the winter of 1909-1910 was practically upon the same 
ideas, and the speeches of Lloyd George, the English 
Chancellor of the Exchequer, were thought for thought 
on the lines laid down by his great American name- 
sake. 

Writing, lecturing, and entering the political arena 
that he might further propagate his truth, Henry 
George used up his vitality and power, until, in the 
mayoralty campaign in New York, in 1897, he was 



4i6 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

stricken with apoplexy, October 28, and passed on 
to his reward. 

At once, from all parts of the world, came words of 
appreciation, — none truer than these from one of the 
New York City papers that had strongly opposed his 
candidacy: " He was a tribune of the people, poor for 
their sake, when he might have been rich by merely 
compromising; without official position for their sake, 
when he might have had high offices by merely yielding 
a part of his convictions to expediency. All his life 
long he spoke and wrote and thought and prayed and 
dreamed of one thing only — the cause of the plain 
people against corruption and despotism. And he 
died with his armor on, with his sword flashing, in the 
front of the battle, scaling the breastworks of intrenched 
corruption and despotism. He died as he lived. He 
died a hero's death. He died as he would have wished 
to die — on the battlefield, spending his last strength 
in a blow at the enemies of the people. Fearless, 
honest, unsullied, uncompromising Henry George! " 

On the tablet that covers his grave in Greenwood 
Cemetery are placed these words from Progress and 
Poverty, that he had written years before: 



" 'T'HE truth that I have tried to make clear 
will not find easy acceptance. If that 
could be, it roould have been accepted long ago. 
If that could be, it would never have been ob- 
scured. But it will find friends — those who 
will toil for it; suffer for it; if need be, die for it. 
This is the power of Truth." 



CHAPTER XXXVII 

THE INVENTIVE HERO OF MOUNT LOWE, 
THADDEUS S, C. LOWE 

TN this age of wealth- worship it is a great thing for 
-*- a man of inventive genius to devote his wonderful 
powers to the good of his fellow- men; to bring to them 
at a small cost added comfort, joy, ease, content. It 
is a greater thing to so control his inventions that rich 
corporations cannot monopolize them and thus use 
them for their own enrichment. A man who can and 
does achieve both these results is surely one whom the 
great world should delight to honor. And such an one 
is Professor Thaddeus S. C. Lowe, who, from a child- 
hood of hardship and poverty, won his way to a place 
ot honor in the world's regard by his inventive genius, 
the results of which he resolutely devoted to the good 
of the common people. 

It is given to but few men to do as much for their 
fellows in so many ways as has fallen to the lot of 
Professor T. S. C. Lowe, now of Pasadena, California. 
Born August 20, 1832, at the little town of Jefferson 
Mills. New Hampshire, he endured a greater share of 
hardships than most poor suffered in those early days. 
He was one of several children, and his father, owing to 
untoward circumstances over which he had no control, 
was compelled to leave the brave and stout-hearted 



4i8 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

mother lo bring up the Httle flock. With a love as 
wise as it was tender she did all she knew how to keep 
the wolf from the door and to train her children in 
virtue and honest labor. But the struggle was too 
hard to be maintained alone, so, after many bitter 
tears on her part, it was decided that Thaddeus must 
be " bound out " to a near by farmer. Thaddeus, a 
sturdy, thoughtful, fearless youngster, zealously anxious 
to relieve his mother of any extra burden, made light 
of her fears and anxieties and refused to see any great 
hardship in having to leave home and go out to work for 
a neighbor. But he rested too much in the expectation 
that others would treat him with the same gentle and 
kindly consideration that his noble mother had ac- 
corded him. It was a rude awakening to the high- 
strung lad to find that honest work was not all that 
some men required of their " hands." Abuse and 
rudeness must be expected and quietly suffered, for 
kindness and sympathetic friendliness were opposed, 
in the minds of such men, to good discipline and to a 
preservation of the proper distance that should exist 
between " master " and " servant." But such ideas 
were as poison to the clear brain of the democratic 
young Thaddeus. He punctured the claims of caste 
as readily as he was ultimately to puncture the old- 
fashioned claims of certain scientists, for one early 
morning, after talking the matter over with his bosom 
friend, Nathan Perkins, afterwards recognized as one 
of New Hampshire's distinguished and noble sons, he 
started away from his native village, his whole worldly 
possessions wrapped up in a handkerchief, and his 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 419 

whole fortune of eleven cents hidden deep in his 
pocket. 

To recount all his early struggles, failures and tri- 
umphs is here impossible. His early history reads like 
a romance, and is full of instructive lessons to the 
growing youth of our land. Step by step, in the face 
of great obstacles, he worked his way upward and 
onward. Nothing daunted him. Ever alert, ever will- 
ing to do any good and honest work, he was not content 
to do things as others did them, and early revealed 
that inventive genius that has since been turned to such 
good use for the benefit of mankind. Every available 
moment outside of the time required for his duties 
was expended in study, and soon his knowledge of 
herbs, of chemistry and anatomy, and of practical 
surgery learned from his wise old grandmother, was 
called upon by the simple-hearted neighbors, and he 
gained quite a reputation as a healer of disease and 
a mender of broken bones. 

Before his twentieth year he had saved enough to 
gratify his desire for seeing more of the world than or- 
dinarily falls to the lot of a poor lad; and for his wedding 
trip — he married young — he journeyed from Zanes- 
ville, Ohio, down the Muskingham and Ohio rivers, 
into the Mississippi and to New Orleans, Louisiana, 
giving lectures on the way, and incidentally studying 
the country and people of the South. 

When he returned to New England, it was to resume 
his studies of chemistry with greater fervor than before, 
and in connection with this study he soon saw an op- 
portunity to gratify a desire that was one of the earliest 



420 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

emotions of his young and active mind. Even as a young 
child the wonderful movements of the clouds, and the 
changes of the weather had ever interested him. Born 
right in the heart of the White Mountains, Mount 
Washington and all the Presidential Range being in 
sight from his mother's door, he watched the floating 
clouds of both winter and summer, saw them at times 
sail away, at another hang like banners to the mountain 
summits, then again, discharge their contents as hail, 
sleet, snow or rain, while at still other times they were 
dissipated into impalpable mist by the heat of the 
summer sun ; and he came to the conclusion that there 
were wonderful secrets of the upper air that he would 
like to penetrate, that would doubtless explain these 
wonderful, though common and everyday phenomena. 
As a chemist, he learned the properties of gas and saw 
how a balloon could be best constructed and filled, 
and, no sooner was his vivid imagination stirred by vis- 
ions of ascending into the upper atmosphere and study- 
ing the conditions he found there, than he proceeded 
to the construction of a balloon. Soon he was making 
regular ascensions. Then the failure of the Atlantic 
Cable gave him another inspiration. Why not use 
the balloon to cross the Atlantic, and thus give to mer- 
chants and others the news they so urgently needed. 
Distinguished people in Philadelphia, whom he had 
interested, including such men as George W. Childs 
and Professor John C. Cresson, suggested that he apply 
to Professor Joseph Henry, of the Smithsonian Institu- 
tion, for aid in furthering this laudable and practical 
project, and in a number of interviews the distinguished 



THADDEUS S. C LOWE 421 

savant made himself fully cognizant of young Lowe's 
far-reaching ideas. He saw that here was a mind 
different from the ordinary, and found great delight 
in drawing him out. He discovered that the young 
aeronaut had already learned some things of the upper 
atmosphere, and that he believed there existed a steady 
upper air current that invariably moved eastward, no 
matter how diverse, opposite or complex the wind 
movements on the earth's surface might be. 

" Prove to me the existence of that eastward current, 
without risking your life on the Atlantic ocean," said 
Professor Henry, " and I'll find you the means of 
crossing the Atlantic in your balloon." 

"How shall I do it to satisfy you?" queried the 
urgent young student. 

" Go a thousand miles inland, wait until all the earth 
currents are blowing westward. Then make an ascent 
in a small balloon, and travel eastward and I'll be 
satisfied," responded the savant. 

Young Lowe didn't wait an hour. He went to 
Cincinnati as quickly as he could go, taking with him 
a balloon of the size needed for the experiment. The 
telegraph ser\'ice was placed at his disposal and reports 
of wind conditions regularly made to him. The balloon 
was filled with gas and anchored ready to make the 
ascent at a moment's notice. Day after day passed. 
One evening he was at a banquet given in his honor by 
Mr. Potter, the owner of the Cincinnati Commercial, 
at which Murat Halsted, the distinguished editor, 
and many of Cincinnati's notable men were present, 
when the welcome news was brought that the wind cur- 



422 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

rents were all blowing weshuard. Without waiting to 
change his society clothes for those more appropriate 
for a balloon ascent, and still wearing his silk hat, he 
hurried down to the balloon, accompanied by his fellow 
banqueters, Mr. Halsted bringing down with him 
a large demijohn filled with hot coffee. At Mr. Potter's 
request, Mr. Halsted \^TOte a brief notice of the ascension 
and Professor Lowe waited until three o'clock in the 
morning to allow the pressmen to insert this notice 
in the Commercial and run off two or three hundred 
copies which he could carry away in the balloon. It was 
fortunate for him that this was done, as a few hours 
later it sa\'ed him from being shot as a Federal spy, 
as I will soon relate. 

In the meantime, when the Cincinnati people read 
their morning papers, they were amused by the state- 
ment that " Professor Lowe's balloon, which had as- 
cended to prove the existence of a perpetual current 
blowing to the east, w^hen last seen was rapidly traveling 
westward.^' 

But the darkness of the early morning didn't allow 
the newspaper men to see long enough. While the 
balloon did travel very rapidly to the west when it 
first ascended, it was not long before it reached the 
eastward current, and then Professor Lowe made the 
historic trip for which he will ever be remembered. 
When he struck the Alleghany Mountains he bounded 
over a mile into the upper air, and then, striking the cur- 
rent between this range and the Blue Ridge, he was 
drawn slightly to the south and descended at noon on 
the coast of South Carolina, having traveled a distance 



THADDEUS S. C LOWE 423 

of eight hundred miles in nine hours. Returning inland 
a little distance, by means of a westerly current, he 
landed among some of the " Clay Eaters," who, as the 
war had just broken out, vowed he was a spy from Fort 
Pickens. It required both nerve and persuasive power 
to convince those people of their error, but they finally 
consented to take him to Unionville, twenty-five miles 
away, which was the nearest railway point. When the 
wagon came it was drawn by sbc mules. Professor 
Lowe asked why they brought six animals for so small 
a load, and they said that when they saw the balloon 
(in its inflated condition) they thought it would require 
at least that number of animals to draw so ponderous a 
thing. They were wonderfully surprised to see it in its 
collapsed condition. Seated on the balloon (to ease 
the jolting of the rough roads), wdth his silk " tile " 
upon his head, Professor Lowe began to laugh at his 
own comical appearance, but laughter soon ceased when 
a dozen or more men, each armed with a revolver and 
Winchester rifle, grimly and silently surrounded the 
wagon. He saw he was still regarded as a spy and that 
any suspicious movement would mean instant death. 
On his arrival at Unionville, however, he fell among 
friends. One of them, seeing the newspapers which 
Professor Lowe finally handed to him, explained. 
" This settles it all right. This paper is still damp from 
the press. It's a strange story. Eight hundred miles 
in nine hours, but we're compelled to believe it." Ac- 
cordingly the " spy " was released and sent on his way 
to Columbia. Here he was again arrested and jailed, 
and would have had an awkward time had it not been for 



424 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the friendly interference of the president and professors 
of the college, who were acquainted with the purely 
scientific nature of Professor Lowe's work, and knew 
that it had absolutely nothing to do with the war. 

His adventures, however, at this time, were thrilling 
and exciting enough to stir the blood of the most slug- 
gish, and they undoubtedly turned his active brain into 
the very direction for which the southern men had 
arrested him. It was now that his dominant genius be- 
gan to assert itself. He was but twenty-eight years old, 
yet while the fires of hatred were being fanned by the 
wild utterances of men who did not realize the horrors 
of such a fratricidal war, he, with a soul full of zeal for 
the preservation of the Union, began to exercise his 
intellect to the utmost to formulate a plan whereby his 
knowledge of ballooning might be made of service to his 
beloved country. For he was a patriot, in the larger, 
truer sense, from his birth. Every fibre of his being 
thrilled with the joy of true democracy. He was him- 
self of the common people; he believed in them, if they 
had a fair chance; he saw that if the principles of the 
founders of this country were carried out, the poor and 
lowly would here have as large and good opportunitesfor 
improvement as the high, the educated and the rich, if 
they chose to work hard to utilize them, hence he burned 
with an intense, zealous earnestness to do his part in 
helping preserve the Union, to which his whole heart 
and mind were so devotedly attached. Professor Henry 
and President Lincoln sent for him as soon as his return 
to Cincinnati was known, and the upshot of their con- 
ferences was that this young man, self-taught and self- 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 425 

reliant, was given power to organize the first Balloon 
Corps for military operations in the field that the world 
had ever seen. For months he operated for the different 
commanding generals under the direct auspices of Presi- 
dent Lincoln, making daily and nightly ascents, witness- 
ing many skirmishes and battles and gi^'ing most valu- 
able information as to the movements of the enemy that 
could not possibly have been gained from any other 
source. He invented and set into successful operation 
methods by which he could telegraph from his balloon 
to the tent of the commanding general in the field below, 
thus giving accurate and detailed description of events 
actually transpiring at the moment the news was re- 
ceived. 

His chemical studies and inventive powers also came 
into most valuable play. He soon realized that the 
old and antiquated methods of generating gas for filling 
his balloon were absolutely impossible, if it were to 
become a practical and feasible instrument of aid in 
active warfare. The exigencies of war demanded that 
the balloon be transferable at will to any part of the 
field, or even to distant parts. To transfer it, filled with 
gas, was impracticable, yet to empty it, transfer it and 
then generate the gas for refilling was equally im- 
practicable. So many hours were required to generate 
gas by the old methods that any ordinary conflict would 
begin, be fought out and the armies moved, before so 
large a balloon could have been filled. So Professor Lowe 
invented and constructed retorts on wheels, which 
could be drawn anywhere, and by means of which 
the making of sufficient gas was the work of but a few 



426 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

minutes. Thus he was able to make ascensions almost 
at will and in many and diverse parts of the scene of 
operations. At all hours of the day and night he was 
ready. Many a time the movements of the enemy were 
detected by this novel and vigilant watcher, and the 
Confederate generals made desperate efforts both to 
destroy the balloon and either kill or capture the bal- 
loonist. Consequently Professor Lowe was given 
extraordinary powers by his commanding officers, and 
he and his balloon also became objects of great interest 
to the enemy. Time and again their sharp-shooters, 
both of the infantry and artillery, directed their fire 
upon him, but while they were getting his range he 
went on coolly making his observations, knowing that 
he was perfectly safe for some time, and that the mere 
pulling of a string would release the gas valve, and allow 
him to descend a little, or that the throwing out of a bag 
of sand ballast w^ould send him up higher, the changed 
position in either case putting him out of range of the 
enemy's guns. 

He operated thus, working day and night at the be- 
hest of the commanding generals, until the overwork, 
the hardships of the field and the malaria combined 
to produce a condition of ill health, which drove him 
home and well-nigh killed him. Even to this day, 
in spite of his well spent and abstemious life, he still 
suffers from physical ailments fastened upon him during 
that time. With that keen foresight, however, which 
is one of his most marked characteristics, he had pre- 
pared for just such an event by carefully training his 
subordinates to carry on his work. This they did to the 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 427 

best of their capacity, so that, while Professor Lowe 
lay on his bed of pain and affliction, his mind was at ease 
with the assurance that the plans he had so carefully 
formulated were being carried out with a reasonable 
measure of success. 

Before he had recovered his health the war was 
brought to a successful close. He immediately turned 
his inventive genius to work, and built and equipped a 
floating refrigerator, the first steamship in the history 
of the world designed for the purpose, which made sev- 
eral trips from Galveston, Texas, to New York, loaded 
with Texas beef, etc. This was the origin of the re- 
frigerator in actual commerce, and the benefit to the 
people of this invention can never be estimated. By 
it meats and fruits and other perishable food products 
are now transported from one part of the world to 
another, either by land or sea, without injury or detri- 
ment. The surplus cattle of Texas are converted into 
beef and shipped wherever needed, the strawberries 
of Georgia are sent to the North, and the oranges of 
Florida and California to every town and hamlet in 
in the country, as well as to ports all over the civilized 
globe. 

And yet this invention was, at the time of Professor 
Lowe's presentation of it to the world, so far in advance 
of people's knowledge of its value, that he personally 
not only derived no benefit from it, but actually suffered 
most heavy financia'l loss. 

It was equally so with his valuable invention for the 
making of artificial ice. He set in operation several of 
these machines, on the same principle that they are 



428 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

now working, viz., the compression of ammonia, etc., 
and thus made it possible for the housewife in her small 
refrigerator, as well as the chefs of the most luxurious 
hotels, to keep milk sweet, butter hard and fresh, meats 
and vegetables cool and pure, no matter how hot the 
weather might be. It seems impossible to measure the 
benefit this invention has been to the human race, yet 
I feel that the world should know that, owing to its being 
in advance of its time, when Professor Lowe figured 
up his profits and losses on the giving of this product 
of his genius to the world, he was eighty-seven thousand 
dollars in debt, independent of his long months of time 
and exhaustive labor, and this debt was subsequently 
paid by him out of the profits of one of his later inven- 
tions. 

It is this invention to which attention is now called. 
Disappointed and chagrined at his experiences in trying 
to bring the commercial and home w^orld to a realization 
of the benefit of his refrigerator and ice inventions, 
he vowed he would never again invent things ahead of 
his times, so he turned his attention to the improvement 
of present methods of gas supply. In this field he is the 
recognized master of the world. His varied inventions 
for the making of gas alone entitle him to the undying 
gratitude of his fellow men. For not only has it light- 
ened the labor of millions of the toiling women of earth; 
not only has it reduced the heating of a room, the making 
of a fire for the cooking of a meal to the mere turning of a 
gas cock and striking a match, but it has been done 
in such a way that, while immense fortunes have been 
made by thousands of men as the result of investments in 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 429 

the invention, it has brought down the prices of this 
useful and necessary commodity so that the poorest of 
the poor can now practically have light and heat suffi- 
cient for all purposes. 

Allured by the " glorious climate of California " 
Professor Lowe now settled down in the beautiful home 
city of Pasadena, but his restless energy soon compelled 
him to another enterprise which has endeared him to 
hundreds of thousands of tourists and travelers, as well 
as to the nature lovers of his own state. In sight of the 
magnificent home that he had built on Orange Grove 
Avenue are the beautiful peaks of the Sierra Madre 
range of mountains, reaching from five thousand to 
eleven thousand feet in snow-clad majesty from the foot- 
hills to the clear blue of the Southern California sky. 
Save for a few steep and almost impracticable trails all 
these glorious heights were inaccessible to the majority 
of people. Knowing their sublime beauty and re- 
membering the enjoyment of the thousands who yearly 
ride up the railway of his native Mount Washington, he 
resolved to scale, with a railway, the most salient of 
the higher peaks near Pasadena. With characteristic 
energy his surveyors were sent into the field. Three 
different parties reported it impossible by any ordinary 
or known method of engineering — except at prohibitive 
expense — to build a railway to the peaks he had chosen. 
But to Professor Lowe, as to Napoleon, the word " im- 
possible " is unknown. He determined the impossible. 
He took one of the surveys that reached from Altadena 
into the heart of the most picturesque canyon of the 
range and graded and built the railway to a natural 



430 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

amphitheatre, where he completely bridged the canyon, 
erected a novel structure, which combined hotel, dan- 
cing pavilion, offices, banquet hall, etc., and then made 
a mile or more of the canyon accessible by means of 
plank walks and stairways, leading to fernbeds, moss 
grottos and several exquisite and charming waterfalls. 
The next desired elevation was thirteen hundred 
feet above, on the summit of Echo Mountain. How to 
reach it was the question. The engineers said " im- 
possible," unless Professor Lowe w^as willing to spend 
a fortune in cutting out a winding shelf to and fro 
on the steep slopes. But this determined and clear- 
sighted man, taking the problem into his own hands, 
did the same as the great Alexander of Russia, when, 
dissatisfied with the engineers' survey, he took a ruler 
and drew a straight line on the map from St. Petersburg 
to Moscow, exclaiming: " There is the route of my 
railway. Now proceed to build it." Professor Lowe 
instructed his engineers to grade an incline up the almost 
perpendicular slope from Rubio Pavilion to the top 
of Echo Mountain. They knew nothing of his plans, 
but simply obeyed orders. When the grade was com- 
pleted he ordered ties laid, wide enough for three rails, 
except midway up the incline, where a wider track 
would be required for a short distance. While the 
grading had been going on he had planned a three- 
railed track, upon which two balanced cars should ride, 
one ascending, the other, descending, with an auto- 
matic and fixed turnout in the centre, and this was now 
put in place. A perfect hoisting machine had been 
designed, which, as it revolved, gripped the inch and a 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 431 

half steel wire cable to which the two cars were built, 
and thus the Great Cable Incline became an assured 
fact, and for seventeen years it has been operated, with- 
out the stoppage of a single day, and without accident 
or injury to any person whatsoever. 

Still interested in his meteorological researches, Pro- 
fessor Lowe now secured and placed upon Echo 
Mountain the largest search light in the world, intend- 
ing to use it for purposes of study of cloud movements 
and wind currents. Then, a few hundred feet higher 
up, he built and thoroughly equipped the Lowe Astro- 
nomical Observatory, which he placed under the charge 
of the eminent astronomer, Dr, Lewis Swift, who has 
discovered and recorded more nebulae than any other 
astronomer since the Herschels. 

To give to thousands the enjoyment of the expansive 
view from Echo Mountain he built two fine hotels, the 
Chalet, and Echo Mountain House, and here guests 
were entertained and privileged to gaze upon one of the 
most beautiful and varied scenes in the world, including 
the orange, lemon and other orchards of the San Gabriel 
Valley, with the score of towns and villages that dot its 
surface, the mountains, foot-hills, further valleys, sea- 
beach, islands and placid-faced ocean. 

Now his genius determined to reach greater heights, 
and the Alpine Di\-ision of the Mount Lowe railway 
was cut out of the solid granite mountain sides, 
equipped and set in operation. This division opened 
up to public enjoyment the great canyons of the Sierra 
Madre and reached an elevation of five thousand feet 
on the shoulders of the mountain that the officers 



432 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

of the Geological Survey decided should be named 
Mount Lowe. Here, another large, picturesque and 
well- equipped hotel, Alpine Tavern, was erected, in 
the heart of a forest of pines, spruces and sycamores. 

From this point it was Professor Lowe's intention 
to extend the railway about three more miles, to the 
summit of Mount Lowe, six thousand one hundred 
feet above sea-level, where another hotel, built of the 
solid granite of which the mountain itself is composed, 
would have been erected. He also expected to estab- 
lish an institution for the furtherance of pure and com- 
mercial science, parts of which would have been an- 
other astronomical observatory, with the largest tele- 
scope which could be made, and a chemical laboratory 
equipped fully for every department of analytical and 
experimental work. Then, over the deep and mile wide 
canyon separating Mount Lowe from the San Gabriel 
(or Observatory) peak, a swinging cable railway was 
planned. Timid and doubtful people could not realize 
that such a railway is both practical and safe. From 
suggestions and plans furnished by Professor Lowe 
several of such aerial railways are now in successful 
operation. Perhaps the most wonderful of them all is in 
California, plying over the great canyon of the American 
River, which passengers on the Central Pacific Railway 
will remember as the abyss they gaze into as the 
trains round Cape Horn. Here, cars loaded with logs, 
weighing scores of tons, are hourly swung across the 
canyon, where trains are made up and the logs drawn 
to the saw-mill. The empty cars are returned by the 
same method. 




THE GREAT INCLINE ON THE MOUNT LOWE RAILWAY. 



Page 1,^2 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 433 

These latter plans, however, were arrested by the 
financial panic of 1893, at which time Professor Lowe 
relinquished control of the railway. 

Since then he has devoted himself to the perfect- 
ing of another great invention, now successfully 
installed in a working plant and more than fulfill- 
ing his most sanguine expectations. By means of 
this plant he takes the heavy crude petroleums 
and refines them for practical uses. Thirty-five 
per cent of the crude oil is thus made to pay the 
original cost of the whole amount and the working 
expenses of the refining process. The residue is now 
made to yield an amount of asphaltum which more 
than again pays the original cost of the whole 
amount of oil. In the processes of refining, large 
amounts of tar and lamp-black are extracted, and 
these have hitherto been regarded as almost worth- 
less. By this new process a mixture of these worth- 
less by-products is converted, in nineteen hours, to 
the most hard, solid and perfect metallurgical coke 
known. Here then is one plant performing three 
successive operations with the same crude product (in 
diilerent stages of manipulation), each one of which 
pays the whole cost of the operations and of the original 
product, viz., refining the oil, the making of asphaltum, 
and the production of coke. But in these various 
processes another product of great value has been 
generated in vast quantity. To produce the results 
aforementioned a terrific heat has had to be created 
and maintained. At this great temperature not only 
are the gases in the oil decomposed, but also the gases 



434 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

of the water that is injected into the ovens. These gases 
are collected, forced through a washer which retains 
the heavy carbons, known as lamp-black, and through 
the scrubber, which removes the tar. They are then 
condensed and purified and thus become the purest 
and best of illuminating and fuel gas ready for distribu- 
tion through mains and pipes to the various consumers 
of a large or small city. The gas is thus practically 
a free gift to the operators of the plant. 

But this is only a part of the story. In all coke- 
oven systems and other similar plants, where immense 
heat must be secured and maintained, it has been found 
impossible hitherto to prevent a large loss of heat 
through the flues and chimneys necessary for the draft, 
without which the heat could not be obtained. By an 
ingenious, practical and thoroughly well-tested system, 
Professor Lowe has now arrested this loss of heat, and 
turns it to good account by generating steam which 
operates large engines, produces electric power, runs 
an ice-making and also a refrigerating plant, and also 
gives to the operators a large amount of steam and 
electric power for sale. 

By means, therefore, of this plant, a large or small 
city can make its own hard fuel (Lowe anthracite coke), 
asphaltum, ice, refrigeration and gas, and supply all the 
steam and electric power needed, and the whole thing 
be run under one management, under one roof and at 
one expense. 

Hence, in looking over this one man's life, we find 
he has invented and given to the world the following 
beneficial and useful inventions and institutions. 



THADDEUS S. C. LOWE 435 

1. The use of balloons during war for observations 
upon the movements of the enemy. 

2. Artificial refrigeration of steamships, and rail- 
v^ay cars for the transportation of perishable food 
products. 

3. Artificial Ice. 

4. Cheaper and better illuminating gas. 

5. The Mount Lowe Railway. 

6. The Lowe Observatory. 

7. A later invention, which reduces the cost of 
illuminating and fuel gas to the minimum. 

Is it any wonder then, that, in his native village of 
Jefferson Mills (now Riverton, New Hampshire) his 
seventy- fifth birthday was made the occasion of a 
wonderful demonstration in his honor. The selectmen 
and citizens of the town extended invitations to the 
whole countryside, and on August 20, 1907, a salute of 
seventy- five guns was fired from a battery under 
the control of the veterans of Lancaster and neigh- 
boring cities. After appropriate exercises, when a 
great flag, twenty by thirty feet, sent by Professor 
Lowe, was presented to the town, and raised upon 
the newly erected flagpole, the enthusiasm was 
immense among the many thousands who were as- 
sembled. Thus New Hampshire royally honored 
its distinguished native son. Though a native of 
New Hampshire, Professor Lowe is essentially a 
Californian in spirit. For over twenty years he has 
made it his own State. His noble and cultured 
wife, who, as a scientist, is almost as well-known 
as her husband, has borne him thirteen sons and 



436 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

daughters, nine of whom are still living. He is 
many times a grandparent and his sons are markedly 
men of affairs. 

Favored with opportunities to know Professor Lowe 
and his work in most intimate fashion, I regard him as 
one of the world's great heroes. His chief character- 
istic has been and is a desire to benefit and bless the 
common man. He is now working upon plans for an 
airship outlined while he soared in the upper air 
during his balloon experiences in war times. Were 
he thirty or even twenty years younger, one might 
well prophecy that in six months he would be roam- 
ing from one capital of the world to another, travel- 
ing at will in the upper heavens, carrying not one or 
two solitary passengers, but taking twenty, thirty or 
more, in as great comfort as is now enjoyed by pas- 
sengers on the most palatially-appointed trains, and 
with less risk of accident. 

A hero of war, he has been no less a hero of peace, and 
in the years to come his fame will increase as the world 
becomes better acquainted with his beneficent achieve- 
ments. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII 

THE RECLAMATION HEROES OF THE COLORADO 
DESERT, — WOZENCRAFT, ROCKWOOD AND CHAFFEY 

^"P^HERE have been few changes in Cahfornia — 
-"- that landof remarkadleand wonderful changes — 
so remarkable and wonderful as that which, in less than 
a single decade, has changed a portion of the arid, 
desolate, awe-inspiring solitudes and wastes of the 
Colorado Desert into a great empire, forming a new 
county, proudly bearing the suggestive name — Im- 
perial. In other chapters the marvels of irrigation have 
been presented, but thgre is nothing in the whole 
history of the subject that deals with such dramatic 
changes as those that concern the Colorado Desert 
and Imperial County. 

A few hundred years ago this desert was an arm 
of the Gulf of Cahfornia. Let the reader glance at a 
good map of California and endeavor to see the salt 
waters of this gulf extending northward to the San 
Bernardino range of mountains and covering all the 
country now occupied by Yuma, Imperial, etc., up to 
Indio and Palm Springs. The beaches of the gulf 
shore line are still in evidence, and may be followed for 
hundreds of miles. 

The Colorado River was the instrument that changed 
this arm of the sea into a desert. Every year it brought 



438 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

down millions of tons of sand, silt and rock-debris in its 
swirling and swiftly flowing waters and ejected them 
from its mouth to settle and sink and slowly fill up 
the contiguous sea-bottom. In one year recently, scien- 
tific calculations were made, and it was found that, 
in that short time, about one hundred and twenty mil- 
lions of tons of sand and silt were thus carried in solu- 
tion and suspension by the Colorado River ; and this did 
not take into account the small rocks and pebbles that 
were rolled along on its bottom. With this suggestive 
fact as a basis of calculation, the mind soon staggers 
under the burden of figuring what ten, twenty, fifty 
centuries have accomplished. Millions of millions of 
tons removed bodily by the storms, cataclysms, world- 
making throes from the plateaus of Wyoming, Utah, 
Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona to be redeposited in 
the bed of the gulf, and thus build up new land for 
the occupancy of man in ages yet to come. 

This is the process, and it is even now being carried 
on. The mouth of the Colorado each year is slowly 
being forced further south, the body — the banks — 
of the river being elongated to correspond to the south- 
ward movement of the mouth. 

In leaving the country high and dry, however, certain 
singular conditions were brought about. For instance, 
a little below vv'here Yuma is now located, the river made 
a sudden bend to the west. The result was it ejected its 
sand and silt transversely across the gulf to the great 
mountain range, which rose abruptly from the waters 
and formed the backbone of the peninsula of Lower 
California. In course of time, this portion of the gulf 



THE RECLAMATION HEROES 439 

was so filled up that at low water one could walk across 
the ridge formed by the deposits from Yuma to the 
mountains. This detached the portion of the gulf above 
this ridge from the main body, and thus made an 
inland salt lake, that reached up to the foot of the San 
Bernardino range to the north. Little by little, this 
lake filled up and evaporated, until, in the course of 
many years, it became dry land, only a small part of it 
remaining below sea-level. 

Thus it was when the eyes of the white man first 
saw it. When Melchior Diaz and Juan de Ohate — 
old Spanish explorers — gazed upon it, they doubtless 
expressed the feeling of countless later thousands when 
they declared it " God- forsaken." So, too, undoubtedly 
felt Captain Juan Bautista de Anza, who conquered its 
tracklessness and took the colonists for the soon-to-be- 
founded San Francisco over its sun-scorched horrors. 
But fifty years ago a man of vision saw it. His eyes 
closed, and he looked fifty years — a hundred ■ — 
ahead, and dreamed the dreams that such men often 
dream, while the prosaic and wide-awake world looks 
on and calls them " impractical fools." Then this 
dreamer began to set in motion the wheels that he 
hoped might help to make his dream come into the realm 
of the practical. He appealed to the State legislature 
and received a grant of all the State's interest in the 
lands named. The State legislature also instructed 
California representatives and senators in Congress to 
support a bill granting sixteen hundred square miles 
to him and his associates in consideration of their 
reclaiming the same by means of water diverted from 



440 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

the Colorado River, The House Committee on Public 
Lands, in reporting favorably on this bill, said in part: 

" This tract embraces (according to Lieutenant 
Brigland) about sixteen hundred square miles in the 
basin of what is now and must remain, until an ener- 
getic and expensive system of reclamation is inaugu- 
rated, and brought to successful completion, a valueless 
and horrible desert. . . . 

" From the report of the several reconnoitering parties 
sent out by the government, from United States sur- 
veyors Avho have made extended government surveys 
over it, and from the reports of army officers, who have 
frequently traversed it, comes the concurrent and uni- 
versal testimony of its utter aridity and barrenness." 

This dreamer was Dr. O. M. Wozencraft, of San 
Bernardino, California, and his plan was to take the 
stream that had made the desert and compel it to 
nourish and sustain the desert by irrigation, until it 
would fulfil the Biblical prophecy and blossom as the 
rose. This gentleman was a practising physician of 
culture and refinement, for a while the Indian agent 
of Southern California, who died in the nineties hon- 
ored and respected. His great desert plan, however, 
while gaining the sanction of Congress, was swept aside 
by the turmoil of the Civil War, and it was left for 
others to carry it to ultimate success. 

In 1892, John C. Beatty, a company promoter, and 
described as " of the Colonel Sellers type of man," took 
up the project and formed the Colorado River Irriga- 
tion Company, securing the services of Mr. C. R. 
Rockwood as engineer to make surveys and report 



THE RECLAMATION HEROES 441 

on the feasibility of the undertaking. Rockwood made 
surveys in 1892 -1893 from a proposed heading on the 
Colorado River known as Pot Holes, situated about 
twelve miles north of Yuma, and a mile below the spot 
where the United States Reclamation Service has since 
built the great Laguna Dam. Beatty interested a large 
number of people, from a member of the Cabinet 
to hotel bell boys, in purchasing the stock of his com- 
pany, but no actual construction work of any kind 
was done. 

For three years Beatty struggled, then practically 
abandoned the project. But Rockwood had now 
become interested, and he determined to try to carry it 
through to success. He organized a company, with 
the aid of others, and continued to endeavor to interest 
capital to carry it through to completion. 

But to most men it seemed too chimerical, too prob- 
lematic, too risky, to venture large sums of money 
upon. " Capital " is always conservative, unless it 
is practically assured of large and certain return. 
And gigantic schemes of this nature never would be 
carried out, unless there were a few men in the world 
who have, in addition to the poet's vision, sufficient 
capital to enable them to carry out their plans. 

Such a man w^as now found to actualize what others 
had dreamed about, in the person of George Chaff ey, 
a Canadian, born in the year of the California gold ex- 
citement (1848), whose experiences especially fitted 
him for just such a work. Mr. Chaffey was a practical 
engineer ■ — one who had actually done things, who had 
come to Southern California in 1880, and the following 



442 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

year had purchased one of the old Spanish ranches 
a few miles from San Bernardino. With his brother, 
W. B. Chaff ey, he constructed a water system, which 
brought the water from the near-by mountain canyon 
and conveyed it to the ten-acre lots into which he sub- 
divided the land. These watered lots were then sold 
to settlers, and the town of Etiwanda started. This 
was one of the first of the settlements of Southern Cali- 
fornia that have since changed the country from a vast 
cattle ranch into contiguous groups of successful fruit 
farms. 

Etiwanda was such an instantaneous success that 
the following year the Chaffey brothers purchased a 
portion of the old Cucamonga Rancho; subdivided it 
as before; named it Ontario, after their native prov- 
ince; and placed it on the market. 

In the meanwhile he had done other useful public 
services, which it is not out of place to mention here. 
First, in far-reaching importance, was the perfecting, 
in association with ]\Ir. L. M. Holt of Riverside, of the 
mutual-company system of water distribution, which 
has since formed the basis of all methods. Hitherto 
each land-owner claimed a certain amount of water 
from a certain stream or supply. If a ditch had to be 
constructed, all he cared about was to see that the 
water, in sufficient quantity, reached his land. In 
early days, when there were few claimants for water, 
this plan was fairly successful, but when a hundred 
claimants were clamoring for water, and found its use 
imperative to make their lands cultivable and preserve 
their newly planted orange and lemon trees alive, some 



THE RECLAMATION HEROES 443 

more generally efficient system was found necessary. 
For it can readily be seen that if there were, say, forty 
claimants to the water, those that were near to the 
source, or to the distributing ditch, would have a great 
advantage over the others who were further away. 
If the first class received all the water their lands needed, 
they would not be apt to care very much about those 
of the second class. Hence, if the ditch banks broke, or 
the service was in any way impeded, it became a case 
of each man caring for himself and the " de'il caring 
for the hinder mdst," 

By the mutual method devised and put into practical 
operation by Messrs. Chaffey and Holt at Etiwanda 
and Ontario, the company as a whole became respon- 
sible for the distribution of water to the lands of the 
most remote and inaccessible as well as to those near by. 

In that same year of 1882, Mr. Chaffey started the 
first electric light plant run by water power in Southern 
California, and also installed an electric light system 
in Los Angeles, making that city the first municipality 
in the United States exclusively lighted by electricity. 
Some of the high masts then erected by Mr. Chaffey 
are still standing in Los Angeles, shedding their light 
over the new conditions as they did thirty years ago 
over the old. 

These things are referred to as showing the active 
and practical bent of Mr. ChafTey's mind and his 
ability to seize upon the unapplied forces of nature and 
utilize them for man's benefit. 

Ontario grew rapidly. Euclid Avenue — a magnifi- 
cent road that stretched across the entire valley — 



444 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

was planted out, a college endowed and started, and 
another innovation, the first tunnel for water, was con- 
structed under the bed of San Antonio Canyon to tap 
the underground flow of water which was found to exist. 
This was another idea that has revolutionized the con- 
servation of water in Southern California, such towns 
as Pasadena securing the major portion of their water- 
supply by this tunneling method. Ontario was soon 
covered with a system of cement and iron pipes for the 
delivery of water, so that irrigation could be system- 
atized and thorough, and thus render fruit culture 
independent of rainfall. 

Such thorough and practical work soon made On- 
tario known as the " model colony." Its success was 
heralded far and wide. It barred out saloons and fos- 
tered only the progressive and helpful, and when, in 
1904, the United States government wished to exhibit 
to the world what it regarded as a model colony, On- 
tario was the one selected. Hundreds of thousands of 
people saw that model exhibit, and saw the concrete 
results of Mr. Chaffey's foresight, skill and practical 
endeavor. 

But he was not yet prepared to undertake the great 
task Dr. Wozencraft had in mind. Though the " vi- 
sionary " urged him to take it in hand, it, as yet, seemed 
utterly impracticable. So, as if in unconscious working 
out to an unseen and divine plan, in 1885, a royal com- 
mission appointed by the government of Victoria, 
Australia, visited California for the purpose of studying 
and reporting on irrigation methods. In due time they 
reached Etiwanda and Ontario, and came in touch 



THE RECLAMATION HEROES 445 

with Mr. Chaffey. They were so impressed with what 
they saw, and the man who had been chiefly instru- 
mental in achieving it, that they immediately made 
arrangements with him and his brother to under- 
take certain reclamation projects by irrigation in 
Australia. The history of the colonies of Mildura 
in Victoria, and Renmark in South Australia, read like 
a fairy tale, which I should much like to recount in 
these pages, but which can only briefly be touched 
upon because they gave to Mr. Chaffey the personal 
experience of the perfect practicability of reclaiming 
desert land in the hottest kind of a climate, which led 
him ultimately to revise his earlier adverse decision 
about the reclamation of the lands of the Colorado 
Desert. 

Riches and honor in full measure were assured to 
him in this land of his latest endeavor, had he cared 
to remain, but the allurements of his beloved California 
were too great to be long resisted, and as soon as he 
saw the early fruition of his labors in Australia and 
found his brother willing to superintend them, he 
returned to the Golden State. 

Now he was ready for the greatest achievement of 
all. Mr. Rockwood and his associates were almost in 
despair. Financiers fought shy of their plan because 
of the great initial expense, and the altogether unprom- 
ising appearance of the land to be reclaimed. All the 
surveys and estimates hitherto made had placed the 
first cost of the canals at not less than one million 
dollars, and it seemed a hopeless task to raise so large 
a sum. At last Mr. Chaffey was appealed to by Messrs. 



446 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Rockwood and Ferguson, as twenty years before he 
had been called upon by Dr. Wozencraft. But now 
his eyes were opened. He made a thorough examina- 
tion of the water supply and the soil of the desert, 
taking into consideration all the physical and climatic 
conditions. He now saw the merit of the proposition, 
and his mind leaped to the gigantic nature of the task. 
He threw himself, soul and body, into its accomplish- 
ment. At the outset he determined to abandon all the 
surveys that had hitherto been made and follow a 
new line which he saw was feasible. Given a free hand, 
with characteristic push and energy, guided by his 
large experience, he went to w^ork. Morning, noon 
and night he was personally in the field, directing 
operations and seeing that they were carried out 
as he desired. Thus the heading was built and 
the main canal constructed. Yonder in the desert 
Mr. Rockwood was surveying laterals, distributing 
canals, and getting them dug ready for the water that 
Mr. Chaff ey promised in a few months. In May, 1901, 
water was on the desert. Settlers began to pour in. 
The land was government land, free, or nearly so, for 
the taking, by those who were willing actually to live 
upon it. The water only was charged for, and a number 
of mutual-water companies were organized, each to 
control its own district, and each to have a certain 
amount of responsibility and control of the parent 
company w'hich supplied water to them all. But all 
did not go with proverbial smoothness. And, while it 
is not my purpose to enter into any dispute or argument, 
it does seem to me necessary to a clear understanding 




A CAMP OF DITCH-MAKERS IN IMPERIAL VALLEY, I90I. 

Page .'fSO 




EGYPTIAN CORN, IMPERIAL VALLEY, IN igO/. 



Page i,r,l 



THE RECLAMATION HEROES 447 

of Chaffey's heroic character that I state a few of the 
extra difficulties he had to overcome in addition to those 
necessarily incident to his great undertaking. 

When Mr. Chaffey contracted to construct the head- 
ing and canals, and supply water to the Imperial 
Valley (Colorado Desert) lands, he was made president 
of the California Development Company, and given full 
control, both of the company's finances and its engi- 
neering. But the books of the company were in New 
York, and he was not fully aware of the actual condi- 
tion of affairs as was later revealed. 

At this time he was under the impression — which 
his contract clearly justifies ■ — that the company owned 
one hundred thousand acres of land in Mexico, through 
which the water alone could be conveyed to the dis- 
tributing canals in the Imperial Valley, and also owned 
an option for the purchase of the necessary land at the 
site chosen for the heading on the Colorado River, where 
it was now determined to divert the water. The con- 
trol or ownership of these two pieces of property was the 
key to the situation, and supposing that the company 
controlled them, Chaffey began work and called for 
settlers to come and take the land he would soon make 
valuable. Realizing what he had done at Etiwanda, 
Ontario, Mildura and Renmark, many people came 
and took up land, actually preparing to settle upon it 
and cultivate it as soon as the water commenced to 
flow. Then, to his chagrin, Chaffey found that his 
company did not own the Mexican land, that the option 
had expired on the land needful for the Colorado River 
heading, and also that the Attorney General of New 



448 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Jersey had commenced suit against the company 
for the annulment of its charter on the ground that it 
had not paid its annual tax. That, in fact, the Cali- 
fornia Development Company was in a moribund 
condition, on the verge of legal dissolution, and that all 
connected were on the point of abandoning it to its fate. 

A weaker man would have thrown up his contract 
and washed his hands of the whole affair. But not so 
Chaff ey. On the strength of his representations and 
because of his reputation for honorable dealing and 
accomplishment of his undertakings, innocent men 
and women had invested their little all and made the 
great move of their lives upon the Imperial lands. 
He practically began at the beginning again — secured 
the Mexican lands and the land for the head -gates 
on the Colorado River by actual purchase, and freed 
the charter from jeopardy by payment of the unpaid 
taxes, thus putting the company upon a sound finan- 
cial basis. He also accepted a burden of liabilities 
to the amount of four hundred thousand dollars, 
principally in the form of script, interchangeable for 
water rights at its face value, which had been dis- 
posed of by the earlier promoters of the company at 
a ridiculously small percentage, every cent of which 
had been swallowed up in promotion expenses. Not 
a spadeful of earth had been turned, or any other 
work done, save the making of the surveys some 
of which he had been compelled to abandon on ac- 
count of the prohibitive expense of carrying them out. 

These were some of the difhculties that Mr. Chaffey 
overcame. The water was given to the Imperial Valley 



THE RECLAMATION HEROES 449 

and its reign begun. With his later relationship to the 
project it is not necessary here to speak. 

But a few words must be said descriptive of the 
County of Imperial, which is made up entirely of this 
land, that less than ten years ago was virgin desert. 

The new county was formed in 1906. It is practi- 
cally the whole western end of what was San Diego 
County, and embraces an area of four thousand square 
miles. As already shown it is a part of the great basin 
into which the sand and silt of the Colorado River was 
emptied for centuries, hence is composed of a soil whose 
richness, fertility and depth no man can estimate. And 
as if to provide for all future ages the Colorado River 
— the Nile of America — continues to bring down in its 
waters rich fertilizers, which the government experts 
claim have a market value of about $3.50 per acre 
foot. As the actual cost of the water to ranchers, for 
irrigation purposes, is about fifty cents an acre, the 
value of the river to the settler can well be understood. 

It may be stated without fear of contradiction, that 
the Imperial Valley is one of the fertile spots of the 
world. There is scarcely anything that can be grown 
anywhere that does not thrive and do well here. Even 
bananas and dates — those fruits that require great 
heat to ripen them, and plenty of water to soak their 
tree roots — do remarkably well, and such crops as 
sweet potatoes, Bermuda onions, Smyrna figs and canta- 
loupes are already bringing large returns. Kaffir, 
Indian and Egyptian corn, sorghum, and alfalfa are 
raised, not by the hundreds of acres, but by the hun- 
dreds of thousands of acres, as feed for stock. Alfalfa 



450 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

regularly gives from six to nine crops annually, and 
yields from a ton to a ton and a half at a cutting. 
Grapes, oranges, and all citrus fruits, as well as apri- 
cots, peaches, and other deciduous fruits, thrive as well 
as in any part of California, and scores of car loads, 
both green and dried, are shipped from the valley every 
season. Last year, 1909, a successful experimental 
farmer had one thousand acres of cotton come to 
maturity, and after thorough testing it is found to be of 
the finest quality the United States has yet produced. 
Among some of the finest samples is one grown from 
Egyptian seed, which repeated experiments have dem- 
onstrated will not grow in the South. Here it has de- 
veloped even better than in its original habitat, and 
large quantities are already planted for next season. 

The close proximity of the Imperial Valley to San 
Diego and Los Angeles renders transportation and 
sale of all its commodities comparatively easy, and, 
as there are satisfactory indications that the oil field — 
which has revolutionized the fuel and manufacturing 
problems of Southern California — extends into the 
Colorado Desert and practically surrounds Imperial 
County, it is a reasonably safe prophecy that ere long 
mills will be established in the very heart of the new 
cotton belt and thus use up the product on the spot. 

The growth of this remarkable young county — al- 
ready full-fledged, powerful, thriving and with a recog- 
nized influence — is no less a testimony to the heroic 
work of George Chaffey than to the foresight of Dr. 
Wozencraft and the persistent promotion of C. R- 
Rockwood. 



CHAPTER XXXIX 

THE POET HERO FOR HUMANITY, EDWIN 
MARKHAM 

^~1~^HE world has ever honored the bravery of the 
-*- warrior. Its plaudits and favors have been show- 
ered upon those it has been pleased to call its " heroes." 
Indeed so wedded has heroism become with militarism 
in the minds of the masses that if one speaks of a hero 
he is almost immediately asked: What battle did he 
fight ? What victory did he win ? 

Yet, while physical courage should be commended, 
it is only the lowest order of which man — the living 
soul — is capable, — there is mental courage, and, 
higher still, spiritual courage. It is of this latter quality 
that Edwin Markham in writing and publishing his 
poem, The Man with the Hoe, gives us a noteworthy 
example. At the time this poem was published, Mark- 
ham was the principal of a grammar school in Oakland. 
He had worked his own way up from the plow and the 
forge to an honored position in one of California's 
largest cities. Naturally he was ambitious, and his 
poetic gifts were slowly coming to be recognized. Being 
a man of discernment, he knew full well that those who 
have favors, wealth and patronage to distribute do not 
like to be criticized, and they resent any attack made 
upon the manner in which they have gained their 



452 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

wealth, or the system under which they Hve that has 
made its accumulation possible. Hence he was aware 
that if, in any way, he attacked, or even seemed to 
attack, the wealthy and their methods of gaining 
wealth, he would become a strong candidate for their 
disfavor and a direct object for their disapproval and 
rejection. If, in addition to attacking the present 
selfish method of accumulating great fortunes, he took 
up the cause, and allied himself with those who were 
trodden under foot by the inordinately rich, he would 
add insult to offense and put himself decidedly beyond 
the pale of those who could confer large and desirable 
favors. 

To do this required a pure soul, a clear vision and 
manly courage, and these qualities I claim for Edwin 
Markham in the writing and publishing of 

"THE MAN WITH THE HOE"» 

" God made man in His own imagfe, 

in the image of God made He him." — GeTiesis. 

Bowed by the weight of centuries he leans 
Upon his hoe and gazes on the ground, 
The emptiness of ages in his face, 
And on his back the burden of the world. 
Who made him dead to rapture and despair, 
A thing that grieves not and that never hopes, 
Stolid and stunned, a brother to the ox? 
Who loosened and let down this brutal jaw? 
Whose was the hand that slanted back this brow? 
Whose breath blew out the light within this brain? 

Is this the Thing the Lord God made and gave 
To have dominion over sea and land; 

1 Reprinted by kind permission of Mr. Markham and his pub- 
lishers, McClure and Co., New York. 




J^cf^r.iJiiCiJ hy pcniiissioii. 



Cotynght, J'JUa, by A. E. Biajlcy. 

EDWIN MARKHAM. 

Page ^53 



.-■ ■■;,■■; 





A PLAYA OR BED OF A DRY LAKE IN THE COLORADO DESERT. 

Page li'iZ 




A BEET FIELD IN IMPERIAL VALLEY, I907. 



Page Ji52 



EDWIN MARKHAM 453 

To trace the stars and search the heavens for power; 

To feel the passion of Eternity? 

Is this the Dream He dreamed who shaped the suns 

And marked their ways upon the ancient deep? 

Down all the stretch of Hell to its last gulf 

There is no shape more terrible than this — 

More tongued with censure of the world's blind greed — 

More filled with signs and portents for the soul — 

More fraught with menace to the universe. 

What gulfs between him and the seraphim! 
Slave of the wheel of labor, what to him 
Are Plato and the swing of Pleiades? 
What the long reaches of the peaks of song, 
The rift of dawn, the reddening of the rose? 
Through this dread shape the sufifering ages look; 
Time's tragedy is in that aching stoop; 
Through this dread shape humanity betrayed, 
Plundered, profaned and disinherited, 
Cries protest to the Judges of the World, 
A protest that is also prophecy. 

O masters, lords and rulers in all lands, 

Is this ithe handiwork you give to God, 

This monstrous thing distorted and soul-quenched? 

How will you ever straighten up this shape ; 

Touch it again with immortality; 

Give back the upward looking and the light ; 

Rebuild in it the music and the dream; 

Make right the immemorial infamies, 

Perfidious wrongs, immedicable woes? 

O masters lords and rulers in all lands. 
How will the Future reckon with this Man? 
How answer his brute question in that hour 
When whirlwinds of rebellion shake the world? 
How will it be with kingdoms and with kings — 
With those who shaped him to the thing he is — 
When this dumb Terror shall reply to God 
After the silence of the centuries? 



454 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Immediately on its publication the fierce fires of 
controversy and condemnation began to rage. Mark- 
ham was bitterly assailed and the assertion made that 
his poem was an insult to labor. He finally made reply, 
and from this reply I cull the following. 

After showing that his poem does not refer to all 
farm-toilers and laborers, those who are well-paid, 
happy and contented, those who know the poetry of the 
farm, he tells of his own boyhood experiences and then 
continues: 

" These things are deep and sweet in memory, but 
I know also the prose of the farm. I know the hard, 
endless work in the hot sun, the chilling rain; I know 
the fight against the Death-clutch reaching to take the 
home when crops have failed or prices fallen. I know 
the loneliness of the stretching plain, with the whirl of 
the dust underfoot and the whirl of the hawk overhead. 
I know the dull sense of hopelessness that beats upon 
the heart in that monotonous drudgery that leads no- 
where, that has no light ahead. 

" Fourteen years ago "(this was ^vritten in 1900), " I 
came upon a small print of Millet's picture of The- 
Hoeman; and it at once struck my heart and my im- 
agination. It was then that I jotted down the rough 
'field notes ' of my poem. For years I kept the print 
on my wall, and the pain of it in my heart. And then 
(ten years ago) I chanced upon the original painting 
itself. 

" For an hour I stood before the painting, absorbing 
the majesty of its despair, the tremendous import of 
its admonition. I stood there, the power and terror 



EDWIN MARKHAM 455 

of the thing growing upon my heart, the pity and the 
sorrow of it eating into my soul. It came to me with a 
dim echo of my own Hfe — came with its pitiless pathos 
and mournful grandeur. 

" I soon realized that Millet puts before us no chance 
toiler, no mere man of the fields. No; this stunned 
and stolid peasant is the type of industrial oppression 
in all lands and in all labors. He might be a man 
with a needle in a New York sweat-shop, a man with 
a pick in a West Virginia coal-mine, a man with a hod 
in a London alley, a man with a spade on the banks 
of the Zuyder Zee. 

" The Hoeman is the symbol of betrayed humanity, 
the Toiler ground down through ages of oppression, 
through ages of social injustice. He is the man pushed 
away from the land by those who fail to use the land, 
till at last he has become a serf, with no mind in his 
muscle and no heart in his handiwork. He is the 
man pushed back and shrunken up by the special 
privileges conferred upon the Few. 

" In the Hoeman we see the slow, sure, awful degra- 
dation of man through endless, hopeless, and joyless 
labor. Did I say labor? No — drudgery! This man's 
battle with the world has been too brutal. He is not 
going upward in step with the divine music of the 
world. The motion of his life has been arrested, if not 
actually reversed. He is a hulk of humanity, degraded 
below the level of the roving savage, who has a step 
of dignity, a tongue of eloquence. The Hoeman is 
not a remnant of prehistoric times; he is not a relic of 
barbarism. He is the savage of civilization. 



456 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" The Hoeman is the effigy of man, a being with 
no outlet to his Ufe, no upHft to his soul — a being with 
no time to rest, no time to think, no time to pray, no 
time for the mighty hopes that make us men. 

" His battle has not been confined to his own life: 
it extends backward in grim and shadowy outline 
through his long train of ancestry. He was seen of 
old among the brickmakers of Egypt, among the mil- 
lions who lifted wearily the walls of Ilium, who carved 
the pillars of Karnak and paved the Appian Way. 
He is seen to-day among the stooped, silent toilers 
who build London and beautify her tombs and palaces. 

" These were some of the memories and agitations 
that pressed upon my soul as I stood in the presence 
of this dread thing — the Accuser of the world. So I 
was forced to utter the awe and grief of my spirit for 
the ruined majesty of this son of God. So the poem 
took shape. It sprang from my long purpose to speak 
a word for the Humiliated and the Wronged. I have 
borne my witness. It is said; it is truth; let it stand." 

There you have the poet's own fearless declaration. 
There are those who deny that any of humanity has 
ever been wronged, but Markham saw with clearer 
vision, and when he saw, he at once ranked himself 
with all the power of his genius on the side of the down- 
trodden, the lowly, the despised, the friendless. As 
Joaquin Miller eloquently wTOte of him: " Consider 
what Markham put aside, as putting aside a crown, 
to take his place with the poor and the despised. 
Wealth (enough, at least), books and a great knowl- 
edge of books, high honors and the esteem of great 



EDWIN MARKHAM 457 

and good men; the love of men and the idolatry of 
women. We scribes used to call him ' Jove ' in his 
stately young prime when speaking of him, so majestic 
was his presence. Yet he put it all by and became a 
blacksmith, a mighty sledge in his strong right hand 
to batter down the prison doors, and break the chains 
of blind men in prison grinding at a mill." 

He saw that some men were being forced by dire 
necessity to work too hard, that other men might have 
ease; they were not having any opportunity to think 
of anything save the grinding toil of the field, the 
foundry, the mill, the shop. So he voiced his protest 
against such inhumanity and unbrotherliness. And how 
the blows rang ; how the iron struck fire ; how the heat 
burned and seared. The world felt the blows, and 
men and women who had been asleep in their own 
selfish comfort and pampered luxury awoke to the 
sorrows, sufferings and needless woes of others. His 
direct questions were sharp-pointed arrows that pene- 
trated the joints of the selfish armor of men. 

It matters not what answer the lords and rulers 
of the lands throughout all the ages give; what ex- 
cuses fall from their ready tongues; what salves the 
prophets of soft things apply to their consciences; 
there is no ignoring the fact that millions of human 
beings to-day know none of the joys, the delights, 
the blessings of mental and spiritual elevation and in- 
spiration. They have had no chance. They have 
been kept too busy doing the hard work of the world, 
and some day the query from the very lips of God will 
startle the luxurious and selfish and greedy of this 



458 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

world with the question asked in the earlier ages of 
mankind : What hast thou done to thy brother ? 

Since his removal to the East other injustices to 
the helpless, defenseless and championless have 
aroused his indignation and led to his entering the 
arena on their behalf. There are few things in 
American literature more calculated to stir the heart 
than his tremendous appeals for the working children 
of our land. He made a personal study of child 
labor in the factories, mills, work-shops, etc., through- 
out the country, and embodied the results, with all 
the power of his genius and sympathetic humanity, in 
a series of articles in the Cosmopolitan Magazine. 
With the flaming Sword of Right and Justice he cut 
away the glittering tinsels of sophistry and attempted 
justification the " rulers of this world " wrapped 
around their cruel inhumanity, and in clear and 
trumpet tones called upon all true men, who believed 
in the Fatherhood of God and the Brotherhood of 
Man, to come to the rescue of these helpless and out- 
raged little ones. 

Only a man of spiritual power and intense reliance 
upon the God of justice would have dared so openly 
and so boldly to demand justice and love for his needy 
and helpless brother. 



CHAPTER XL 

THE HONEST HERO OF THE FREE HARBOR, STEPHEN 
M. WHITE 

YOU will meet with the idea prevalent in the 
world that a man has a right to be selfish, to 
look at every proposition and ask : " What is there in 
it for me ? " and that the acquisition of money is the 
desirable thing. This is certainly a mistake. The men 
who are regarded as moral heroes, even by selfish and 
wicked men, are those who are unselfish and who ad- 
here to high and noble principle. Money is not the 
test of success. Neither is fame. Yet when fame and 
the honor and respect of the world come as the re- 
sult of fidelity to principle when seeming self-interest 
beckoned into other paths, fame and honor and respect 
alike are to be estimated as high rewards and valued 
accordingly. 

These remarks find their illustration in the career 
of Stephen M. White, United States Senator from 
California during the years 1893 to 1899. I would 
that every young man and woman in the State might 
read and know his history and some of his most power- 
ful speeches. Not only would they be fired thereby 
to a higher zeal, a truer patriotism, a nobler principle, 
but they would also acquire a knowledge of the battles 
that a community often has to fight to gain its expressed 
will, when opposed by persons or organizations that 



46o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

own or control large monetary power. It is well that 
every future citizen of California should know how the 
United States government came to spend millions of 
dollars in the construction of a harbor at San Pedro, 
and how near, at one time, it came to spending those 
millions at Santa Monica. The history of that great 
conflict is intimately woven into the life of Stephen 
M. White. Here is what his biographer says of it: 

" No record of this strong, brave man's career 
would be complete without especial reference to his 
tireless and successful contest for the establishment 
of a free harbor at the port of San Pedro on the coast 
of Southern California. ... In all the history of 
American legislation never was there made a more 
bitter, relentless and uncompromising fight on both 
sides. On one side the people, knowing their rights 
and daring to maintain them, on the opposing side one 
of the most powerful corporations on the Continent 
led by one of the most adroit, capable and stubborn 
of men. The corporation was the Southern Pacific 
Company, of Kentucky — a corporation wholly Cali- 
fornian, and Kentuckian only in name; its intrepid 
leader and president was Collis P. Huntington; the 
leader in the people's cause was Stephen M. White, 
United States Senator from California. 

" Successive Boards of Engineers representing the 
government of the United States had selected San 
Pedro as the site for a deep-sea harbor, and the con- 
struction of a breakwater, whose cost would run into 
the millions of dollars. Mr. Huntington, for reasons 
sufficient unto himself, and probably apparent to every 




« < 



^ 9 



X < 



STEPHEN M. WHITE 461 

one having no more than a superficial knowledge of 
the conditions surrounding the selection of a harbor site, 
decided that the government must and should locate 
the harbor several miles further up the coast at Santa 
Monica in an (almost) open roadstead. Certain of the 
examining board of engineers considered both sites, and 
all of them who did so decided against the Santa Monica 
proposition and in favor of San Pedro. But Collis 
P. Huntington, with his powerful corporation behind 
him, stood fast. The case seemed hopeless. The 
forces of money, position, daring and determination 
were in combination for the Santa Monica project. 
On the other side stood the reports of honest and com- 
petent governmental engineers, the people — and 
Stephen M. White. 

" The battle was on. And how it raged for five long 
years, no resident in the southern portion of California 
is likely to forget. Doggedly, determinedly, bitterly, 
Mr. Huntington and his powerful array of attorneys 
hung to the cause of Santa Monica with the grip of tiger 
jaws. Washington swarmed with lobbyists. Hunting- 
ton himself went to the capital to appeal to Senators and 
Representatives with the power of his millions and 
the promises of the great things that could be accom- 
plished by his influence. 

" As has been said, when Senator White entered 
upon this task for the people, the case seemed hopeless 
— the force on one side seemed so powerfully mighty, 
that on the side of the people so pitifully weak. 

" But the race is not always to the swift nor the 
battle to the strong. The people won. Congress sup- 



462 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

ported the reports of the engineers and made appropri- 
ation for the construction of a deep-sea harbor at San 
Pedro. 

" Then there was a further contest in opposition to 
the construction of the harbor, even after Congress had 
definitely made a location thereof and authorized 
and instructed the commencement of the work." The 
Secretary of War, purely on his own responsibility, 
" held up " the work. But he had Stephen M. White 
to count with, and again the people won. The War 
Secretary was driven from the false position he had 
assumed, and the contract was let. 

" At this writing (June, 1903) the great harbor at 
San Pedro is well along toward completion. And there 
it will remain forever a monument to the sagacity, 
cleverness, adroitness, audacity, and unswerving loyalty 
of Stephen M. White! 

" During the pendency of that strenuous contest, 
and upon the occasion of one of Mr, Huntington's 
many visits to the national capital, the magnate of 
many millions met Senator White at a hotel in which 
they were mutual guests. One evening Mr. Huntington 
requested Senator White to come to his rooms. The 
story of that interview has been told by a MTiter in the 
Los Angeles Times as related by Senator White him- 
self. Said the Senator in telling of some incidents 
of the great harbor contest : * He (Mr. Huntington) 
asked if there was no way for us to get together on the 
harbor business. I said that I did not see any way 
to do so — that I did not think that he would give up, 
and I knew I would not. 



STEPHEN M. WHITE 463 

" ' Said he (Mr. Huntington), " I don't see why. It 
might be to your advantage not to be so set in your 
opinion." I then said to him: " Mr. Huntington, if 
that harbor were my personal possession, and you 
wanted it, there would be an easy way for us to gel 
together and one or both of us make some money. But 
as that harbor belongs to the people, and I am merely 
holding it in trust for them, and have no right to give 
it away, I do not see how w^e can come to any under- 
standing." 

" * "Certainly," said Mr. Huntington, " that is very 
high moral ground to take, but a little quixotic. The 
people will think no more of you in the end. Many 
will think less of you." I said, " Mr. Huntington, I am 
not taking your view of that matter either. It is my 
own self-respect I am looking at now." So the matter 
closed.' 

" After it was all over and the fight was won for the 
people, the millionaire came to the Senator, and in the 
course of conversation said: * White, I like and respect 
you. You are almost always against me, but it is not 
for what you can make out of us to come over. You 
have a steadfast principle and you fight like a man, in 
the open and with clean weapons. I cannot say that 
of all the public men I have had to deal with.' 

" The man who could wring that tribute from Collis 
P. Huntington had won a greater victory than the mere 
act of winning a contest for a cause of the people. It 
was a tribute to manhood. It was a laurel wreath of 
immortality, not because it came from a millionaire, but 
because it was an acknowledgment of honesty and 



464 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

loyalty and of the respect those qualities must earn 
from the most bitter and relentless opponent." 

The concluding paragraphs of IMr. White's speech 
in the United States Senate on this subject are well 
worth pondering: 

" The struggle which I have made here may seem 
stubborn to some, but it is maintained in the conscious- 
ness and belief that I am acting for the public interest. 
No demagogical appeal — notwithstanding intimations 
to the contrary — has influenced or ever will influence 
me. I have been able to maintain myself in my con- 
servative methods without condescending to belittle- 
ments. I experience natural pride in my presence here, 
but I would willingly sacrifice that honor rather than 
yield my maturely formed judgment to any senseless 
clamor, to threats or flattery, to condemnation or ap- 
plause, and I might say, IMr, President, that I would 
rather be a lawyer whose word was as good as a rich 
man's bond, and whose opinion upon an intricate 
question of judicial science was valued by the master 
minds of my profession, than to hold in my hand all the 
honors that ever were won by appeals to the passions 
or prejudices of men." 



L 





COMlilNKO HARVHSTKR AND THRASHER ON RANCH OP" H. M. 
KINNEY, IMPERIAL VALLEY. 

Page iriZ 




ONE OF THE IRRIGATING DITCHES WHICH HAVE' AIA©E THE 
CHANGE IN THE IMPERIAL VALLEY. 



Page l,n 



CHAPTER XLI 

THE EXECUTIVE HERO OF IRRIGATION, WILLIAM 
ELLSWORTH SMYTHE 

"1 X 7"E have seen, in a preceding chapter, the wonderful 
' ^ effect of irrigation in certain localities, such as 
the Imperial Valley and Riverside. We have seen the 
barren, desolate, lizard- occupied rancho of La Jurupa, 
and the sun-baked, thrice-heated, below-sea-level-area 
of the Imperial Valley converted into rich, prosperous 
and beautifully fertile regions by the wise introduction 
of water. But the problems of irrigation are many 
and various, and those who have educated the people 
to a proper understanding of the possibilities existent 
in this method of farming, have had to do, at the same 
time, a large amount of studying and experimenting 
to rightly use it to the best advantage. The educators 
of the people in irrigation, therefore, have had to be 
pioneers, — pioneers of peace, happiness, home- mak- 
ing, content for men, women and children. It is an 
honored and blessed occupation to show a struggling 
man how he may make a comfortable home without 
struggle, with nothing but ordinary and reasonable 
labor. It is a power to be thankful for, to be able to take 
men from the ranks of the hopeless and place them 
where happiness and peace again smile upon them. 
Why should not a man who can do this be regarded 



466 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

and acclaimed as a hero, a real hero, as much as the 
man who guides a number of his fellowmen on a 
slaughtering expedition? Why should not a man who 
leads such a forlorn hope as this, and who brings the 
joy of content to thousands, be hailed as a hero as 
well as he who leads the volunteers to the forlorn hope 
of the battle-field? 

Such a hero is William Ellsworth Smythe, one of the 
generals (if we must have military terms) of the Irri- 
gation Movement. The history of this movement 
reads like a fairy tale. All the elements of marvel 
are in it, with the " lived happy ever after " at the 
end, applying itself actually to millions of lives. In 
America it practically began with the work of Major 
J. W. Powell, a hero of the highest type, the subject 
of a chapter elsewhere in this book. His was the pro- 
phetic eye, the large vision, the devotion of misunder- 
stood work for the general benefit of humanity. But 
he was a careful scientist, though a far-seeing humani- 
tarian, and a long-visioned prophet. As the Director 
of the United States Geological Survey he was able 
to make a thorough study of conditions throughout 
the arid West, and pave the way for the accomplish- 
ment of the dream he had dreamed. Rudely outlined, 
his plan contemplated the securing by the national 
Government of all the natural sites for vast reservoirs, 
the scientific impounding of waste waters of streams, 
springs and rainfall, the conveying of this water in the 
most effective manner to the soil of the arid regions 
that was practically worthless without it, the establish- 
ment of experimental farms in the different localities, 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 467 

so that experts could guide settlers in their choice of 
crops, and then the calling of the people to occupy, 
the lands, make their homes upon them, become actual 
owners of the soil, tillers of it, and thus develop hith- 
erto useless territory into powerful and prosperous 
communities. 

But to accomplish all this work required several 
important preliminaries. The cost would be enormous. 
How was it to be met ? The legislators who handle the 
money of the nation do not always see with the far- 
seeing eye of the keen-brained scientist. They, there- 
fore, must not only be educated, but the people must 
also be educated to see the possibilities — nay, the 
absolute certainties of the project — or they would 
condemn the wholesale expenditures required to bring 
them to pass. 

Here is where the hero volunteered, and sprang into 
the breach. Here is where the standard bearer raised 
the flag on high, shouted Follow me! and daringly 
rushed to the battle. And it is no mere figure of speech 
to use such words. It was — if not a forlorn hope — 
a gigantic task to educate the people; it was an 
onslaught upon ignorance and prejudice. It was a 
philanthropic campaign that only a generous-hearted, 
clear-brained, impulsive-souled volunteer could have 
undertaken and carried to success. If a cold-blooded 
man had stepped forward and undertaken the work, 
it would never have been done. It required fervor, en- 
thusiasm and verve to inspire the people with faith, 
to convince them of the possibilities, and lead them to 
desire to enjoy them. 



468 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

William Ellsworth Sraythe was the man, prepared 
of God, for this especial work. Born in Worcester, 
Massachusetts, December 24, 1861, he missed, only 
by one day, being the Christmas gift of blessing to his 
parents, which he has since become to his race and 
people. He has been, indeed, a messenger of peace and 
glad tidings to many. When he was about twelve 
years old his father suffered one of those financial 
reverses that seem to be great adversities and burdens 
at the time, but that later developments show to have 
been great blessings in disguise. IVIr. Smythe, Senior, 
was a wealthy manufacturer, of Pilgrim and Revolu- 
tionary stock, and had he not met with this reverse, 
there is no doubt but that his son would have grown up 
in the easy circumstances and consequently easy life 
of many another son of equally well-to-do parents. 
At sixteen the growing lad had to leave the home nest, 
and cast about for the future. He had just read Par- 
ton's Life 0} Greeley, and was crammed full of "Old 
Horace," his enthusiasm for agriculture, for the West, 
his broad humanitarianism, bordering upon socialism, 
and was fired with his presentation of Fourierism and 
the new institutions of benefit and blessings to be de- 
rived from the building up of colonies. It would be 
interesting to the world that is to-day reaping the 
benefit of Mr. Smythe's active life could all the subtle, 
and at the same time powerful, influence of that book 
of Parton's be made manifest. It is self-evident to the 
outsider that to this day he is pouring out through 
his own mental filter the ideas poured into it in those 
days of his boyhood. Indeed, I make the bold assertion 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 469 

that had Horace Greeley lived a generation later, in 
Smythe's environment, he would have undertaken 
exactly the same work that Smythe has done. 

In due time Smythe heeded the great journalist's 
advice, and came West. After an unsuccessful attempt 
at book- publishing, he set his face westward, and in 
1888, when he was twenty-seven years old, settled 
at Kearney, Nebraska, which was being boomed by 
a New England syndicate, and for two years edited 
the daily paper they established. Here was the be- 
ginning of his education for his larger work. The 
bottom dropped out of the boom and he went to the 
Omaha Bee. While there he felt the full, dire, awful 
force of the Great Drought of 1890. 

Only those who have actually seen and felt it can 
know the terrible calamity a drought is in these Western 
regions. The Eastern mind cannot conceive it. Where 
rain falls abundantly and grass is always green, there 
is no comprehension of the entirely different condi- 
tions of the West. Panic speedily entered the hearts 
of thousands. The drought spelled absolute ruin. 
There was no hope. Starvation for themselves and 
families drove some men to insanity, others to suicide. 

Now was the time for the launching of the irrigation 
movement. Despair would compel attention, and 
enthusiasm combined with reason would inspire new 
hope. Let Mr. Smythe tell his own story from a 
chapter of his book, entitled The Conquest 0} Arid 
America. 

" In 1890 I was an editorial writer on the Omaha 
Bee, under that strong and able leader of Nebraska 



470 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

public opinion, Edward Rosewater. During the pre- 
vious summer I had made a brief trip to the Maxwell 
land grant in New Mexico, and for the first time saw 
men engaged in turning water upon land to make good 
the deficiencies of rainfall, I suppose I had heard or 
read the word ' irrigation,' though I have no recollec- 
tion of it. Certainly, the word meant nothing to me 
until the drought struck Nebraska a year later. Then 
the thought occurred to me that the several fine streams 
flowing through the State might be employed to excel- 
lent advantage. Men were shooting their horses and 
abandoning their farms, within sight of these streams. 
There were the soil, the sunshine, and the waters, but 
the people did not understand the secret of prosperity, 
even with such broad hints before their eyes. 

" I thought of the thrifty orchards and gardens 
I had seen on the Las Animas and the Vermejo, a 
few hundred miles farther southwest, and when Mr. 
Rosewater directed me to write editorials urging the 
public to contribute money, food and seed for the 
drought-stricken farmers of Nebraska, I suggested 
that these should be supplemented by a series of papers 
dealing with the possibilities of irrigation. He gave 
me permission to do so, on condition that I would sign 
the articles myself, as it was then considered little less 
than a libel to say that irrigation was needed in that 
part of the country. 

" How many lives those articles influenced, or are 
even yet to influence through the forces they set in 
motion, I do not know; but they changed my life 
completely. I had taken the cross of a new crusade. 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 471 

To my mind, irrigation seemed the biggest thing in 
the world. It was not merely a matter of ditches and 
acres, but a philosophy, a religion and a programme 
of practical statesmanship rolled into one. There was 
apparently no such thing as ever getting to the bottom 
of the subject, for it expanded in all directions and 
grew in importance with each unfoldment. Of course, 
all this was not realized at first, yet from the beginning 
I was deeply impressed with the magnitude of the work 
that had fallen to my hand and knew that I must cut 
loose from all other interests and endeavor to rouse the 
nation to a realizing sense of its duty and opportunity. 

" The first result of the articles in the Bee was a 
series of irrigation conventions in western Nebraska, 
beginning with the one at Culbertson, the seat of 
Hitchcock County. These county gatherings led to 
a State Convention at Lincoln, and the State Conven- 
tion made me chairman of a committee to arrange for 
a National Irrigation Congress, which was held a 
few months later at Salt Lake, within sight of the 
historic ditch on City Creek, where English-speaking 
men began the conquest of the desert. 

" I resigned my comfortable place on the Bee, 
launched the Irrigation Age (the first journal of its 
kind in the world, so far as I know), and went forth 
to do what I could. It was my rare good fortune to find 
a life-work, while yet on the sunny side of thirty, to 
which I could give my heart and soul with all a young 
man's enthusiasm." 

The ball was thus set rolling, and it has rolled 
on ever since. The second Congress was held in Los 



472 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Angeles, in 1893 (this was the memorable Congress to 
which reference is made in the chapter on Major 
Powell). The third was in Denver, in 1894, and there 
have been subsequent ones at Albuquerque, New Mex- 
ico, in 1895; at Phoenix, Arizona, in 1896; at Lincoln, 
Nebraska, in 1897; at Cheyenne, Wyoming, in 1898; 
at Missoula, Montana, in 1899, etc. 

In 1897 a wonderful impetus was given to the move- 
ment by the publication of Captain Hiram M. Chit- 
tenden's Reservoirs in the Arid Region. Trained in 
the United States Corps of Engineers, formerly in 
charge of the government works in the Yellowstone 
National Park and on important Western rivers, and 
then assigned to the study of reservoir problems on 
certain rivers of the West, he brought to the subject 
the powers of a scientific mind well able to grasp the 
subject with a thorough comprehension. He "recom- 
mended that the government should acquire full title 
to and jurisdiction over any reservoir site which it 
might improve, and full right to the water necessary 
to fill the reservoir; also that it should build, own, and 
operate the works, holding the stored waters abso- 
lutely free for public use under local regulations." 

The question as to whether the public lands to be 
irrigated should be ceded to the different States had 
been already practically disposed of by Major Powell's 
attitude, and the public interest that had followed the 
dissemination of his ideas. It was seen that such a 
cession would soon amount to nothing more than the 
control of it all by private wealthy owners, who would 
use it for their own selfish monetary gain. 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE ' 473 

Now that Captain Chittenden suggested the pro- 
cedure for the conducting of the reservoirs, light upon 
the whole problem seemed to be at hand. 

In the meantime two other Californians had become 
interested in the Irrigation Question and all it implied. 
Mr. George H. Maxwell, a young lawyer, with energy, 
power and foresight, organized the National Irrigation 
Association, and Mr. C. B. Boothe, a Los Angeles 
merchant, threw himself heart and soul into the move- 
ment. In 1900 the political parties took it up, and the 
issue was thus made national and put squarely before 
the people. The results are generally well known. 
The irrigation works of the United States Reclamation 
Service already completed rival the seven wonders of 
the ancient world in their magnitude; and in the 
influence they have had upon the people, they surpass 
them ten thousand fold. It gives a patriotic American 
a thrill of pride to see the Laguna Dam on the Colorado 
River, the Roosevelt Dam and that at Granite Reef, 
on the Salt River in Arizona, the Carson- Truckee Dam 
in the Sierras, that of Yakima, and all the others. 

And who is able to estimate the far-reaching results 
of these colossal works ? Think of what it means, — 
the influx of such vast and active populations in these 
once barren and desolate regions! The building up of 
new communities. The establishment of thousands of 
new and prosperous homes, for ever free from the fear, 
the dread, the overhanging pall of the possibility of 
years of drought. Who would not rather be the man 
who materially aided in bringing this beneficent result 
to pass than wear all the honors of Napoleon? So 



474 ■ HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

we hail thee, WilHam E. Smythe, as one of the great 
heroes of peace, for we are realizing more and more 
each year the truth of Milton's great statement in his 
Sonnet to Cromwell: 

" Peace hath her victories 
No less renowned than War." 

In the forepart of his book Mr. Smythe has the fol- 
lowing, which but states the facts: 

Emancipation 

The Nation reaches its hand into the Desert, 
And lo! private monopoly in water and in land is 
scourged from that holiest of temples, — the place where 
men labor and build their homes! 

The Nation reaches its hand into the Desert. 
The wasting floods stand back, the streams obey 
their master, and the stricken forests spring to life again 
upon the forsaken mountains! 

The Nation reaches its hand into the Desert. 
The barred doors of the sleeping empire are flung 
wide open to the eager and the willing, that they may 
enter in and claim their heritage! 

The Nation reaches its hand into the Desert. 
That which lay beyond the grasp of the Individual 
yields to the hand of Associated Man. Great is the 
Achievement, — greater the Prophecy ! 

It is literally true that, as the result of the work 
of education begun by Major Powell and so success- 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 475 

fully carried on by Mr. Smythe, the people of the United 
States are, in the main, aroused to the need of con- 
servation of our national resources, and not only otir 
own nation, but the world, for an International Con- 
ference is soon to be held at The Hague upon the sub- 
ject. 

To William E. Smythe, more than to any other 
man, is entitled the credit for two things in this irriga- 
tion movement: He created the popular literature 
upon the subject, and put a soul into it. While Powell's 
work was comprehensive, it reaches only the scientist 
and statesman. It was preliminary work, — the deep 
concrete work of the foundation; necessary and essen- 
tial, but not seen and known of the masses. Smythe 
popularized the subject, and throwing his very soul 
into the work, vivified it so that the world lifted its head 
and listened. With a voice of eloquence and power, 
he toured the country, lecturing with Western vim and 
enthusiasm upon the theme that had so fully taken pos- 
session of him. 

He wrote convincing and enthusiastic articles which 
gained admission into the Century, Atlantic Monthly, 
North American Review and all sorts of publications. 
The first paper in the Century evoked a two-column 
leader from the New York Sun, which treated the 
matter almost as the discovery of a new empire. Then, 
too, his book. The Conquest 0} Arid America, contains 
three elements of value, which have given it a real and 
permanent acceptance. 

I. It is scientific. It discloses the real economic 
character of aridity and of irrigation and of our climate. 



476 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

II. It is historical. It sketches the unfoldment of 
Western life and institutions, and shows how later de- 
velopments have depended upon irrigation. 

III. It is practical. It gives reliable, definite in- 
formation for the home seeker. Personally I know of 
scores throughout this great Western empire who have 
come here purely on the strength of this book, and 
the comfort and content of these men and their families 
is more than honor and fame. Is not this a making of 
history more worthy of record than the chronicle of 
bloody battles, fought for the furtherance of selfish ends, 
and those that deal only with the horrible, the mean, the 
reprehensible traits of human nature? Here has been 
a warfare for the public good, and not for selfish 
purposes. Mr. Smythe's labors have been at the cost 
of much personal sacrifice, of consecrated devotion, 
of financial loss. Had he bestowed the same amount of 
thought, energy and ability to the public lecture plat- 
form and thought only of his own financial good, he 
could have made himself independently rich long 
ere now. But he has resolutely kept his face to the 
stars. Even in his practical projects, — which have 
made money for others, — he has labored only until 
success was assured, and then stepped out to further 
his larger plans elsewhere. In Idaho, in 1895, he and 
Benjamin P. Shawhan established New Plymouth, 
in the Payette Valley, twelve miles from the town of 
Payette. The pioneers of this settlement were of rather 
unusual quality, being drawn largely from urban 
business and professional life, yet they entered enthusi- 
astically and successfully upon the work of making 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 477 

homes on sage-brush land, twelve miles from a 
railroad, in a remote and undeveloped part of the 
West. 

" The Plymouth industrial programme aimed at 
complete independence of the people by the simple 
method of producing the variety of things consumed, 
on small, diversified farms; of having surplus products, 
principally fruit, for sale in home aild Eastern markets; 
and by combining the capital of the settlers, by incor- 
poration of a stock company, to own and develop the 
town-site, and to erect and operate simple industries 
required in connection with the products of the soil. 
On the social side, the plan aimed to give these farmers 
the best advantages of town life, or at least of neighbor- 
hood association. This was accomplished by assem- 
bling the houses in a central village, laid out, in accord- 
ance with a beautiful plan, with residences grouped 
on an outside circle touching the farms at all points. 
This plan brought the settlers close together on acre- 
lots — " home acres " — thus preventing isolation, 
and giving them the benefit of school, church, post- 
office, store, library, and entertainments. 

" The Plymouth settlers have been contented and 
prosperous from the first, and have had less than the 
usual share of early trials and disappointments. They 
testify that the social advantages of the colony plan, as 
compared with the drawbacks of individual and iso- 
lated settlements, are alone sufficient to warrant its 
use. Availing themselves of a favorable opportunity, 
they acquired the irrigation system and other valuable 
property by purchase from the Eastern bondholders, 



478 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

on terms which went far to enrich them as a commun- 
ity." ' 

This was an important work, but as soon as it was 
well on its feet, Mr. Sraythe's boundless energy re- 
quired a new field for its manifestation. 

The question has often been asked: How much 
land is necessary to enable a man and his family to 
live healthfully and* comfortably ? All kinds of answers 
have been given to this question, and the quantity of 
land has been variously estimated from a few acres to 
as high as sixty or more. No one, however, who has 
seen the small holdings of the farmers of Brittany, and 
made himself aware of their productiveness under care- 
ful cultivation, needs to be told that a large acreage is 
not essential to comfort, happiness and content. 

In the sunny climate of California, with fertile soil 
and crops controlled by irrigation, everything is favor- 
able to the development of the small landholder. Mr. 
Smythe's knowledge, both of California and the prac- 
tical needs of the farmer, were now brought into play 
in what might be regarded as by far the most important 
work of his life. He enunciated the bold doctrine that 
a family can find true independence on one acre, and 
that when this fact is understood, the great West can 
meet the material, social, intellectual and spiritual 
needs of millions of people. 

To put his ideas into concrete form, as he had the 
colony idea in Idaho, he interested land owners and 
others, and after careful and thorough study selected 

' The Conquest of Arid America, by Wm. E. Smythe, Macmillans, 
p. 192. 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 479 

a large tract of land some seventeen miles from San 
Diego, on a line of railroad, and there organized the 
" Little Landers," This was in July 28, 1908. 

Colonists pay on an average five hundred dollars, 
which includes their acreage, a lot fifty by one hundred 
and fifty in the beautiful village, and a share in all the 
improvements. These improvements include water 
piped in village lot and acre, land graded for irrigation, 
park laid out and improved (each home will front upon 
the park), street graded, side- walks, curbs and sewer- 
age installed, and village hall built and ready for use. 
When the improvements are completed and the entire 
acreage sold and brought under cultivation, all public 
works will be turned over to the landowners, by means 
of a local corporation of which they will be the stock- 
holders. The mutual water company will maintain the 
park. Thus we have public ownership of those things 
used by the public, and private ownership of those 
things (town lot and acre) used by the individual. 

No land whatever is sold for speculation. Every 
purchaser must be an actual settler, in person or by 
proxy, and his title to the land is made contingent upon 
his beginning to improve his " acre " within six months 
of the date of purchase. 

Already a large settlement has demonstrated the 
truth of the proposition. As a speaker recently de- 
clared in the village hall of the "Little Landers:" 
" Your fundamental proposition, that one acre of 
land in this climate, intelligently tilled, with a market 
direct to the consumer, will support a family in com- 
fort, is absolutely true. I know it to be true — have 



48o HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

known it for years. But William E. Smythe is the 
only man in the United States who would have dared 
to proclaim this truth and proceed to put it into action," 

In commenting on this statement, Mr. Smythe says: 
" Sometimes I wonder if mine is a case of 'fools rush 
in where angels fear to tread ! ' Every man who has 
really studied the subject, at home or abroad, knows 
the possibilities of ' a little land and a living.' You 
may be sure that I studied it very thoroughly before 
launching the Little Landers. I studied it with the aid 
of Bolton Hall, of Prince Krapotkin, and other writers 
who have brought together the experience of the world, 
but most of all I studied it in California, and especially 
in San Diego. 

" Given water, soil, climate, transportation, market, 
industry and intelligence, and there is no other oppor- 
tunity in the world so certain to yield a generous living 
to the average man as the acre farm. Oh, make it two 
or three acres if you will, but when you have done your 
best on your two or three acres, I will show you men who 
are getting better results on less land. What this nation 
needs is landed proprietors working for themselves. 
What we want at San Ysidro is land lovingly tilled 
by the hands of its owners, not land grudgingly tilled 
by the alien hands of hired labor. And the man who 
tries to till lovingly much more than an acre will find 
the job too big for him. Of course, there are certain 
crops which do not require close attention, and if a 
man has sufficient capital to indulge in the luxury, he 
can use land in that way, but I would rather see an 
independent family living on every acre." 



WILLIAM E. SMYTHE 481 

As soon as the men and women in our cities, who are 
what Jack London calls " The People of the Abyss," 
learn what this " Little Landers " movement means 
to them, and true philanthropists are found who will 
place these helpless creatures upon the land, it will 
soon be found that this is one way out of social 
bondage. It will become the refuge for great elements 
of our population. 

To have accomplished so great a result, — to have 
set in motion such beneficent forces, is indeed to have 
been a hero, a leader, a standard-bearer, and as such 
California and the nation will ever honor and revere 
William Ellsworth Smythe. 



CHAPTER XLII 

THE PIONEER HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

(An address by Judge David Belden) 

David Belden came to California in 1855, for a short time 
was engaged in mining, became a lawyer, and was finally elected 
Judge of the Superior Court of Santa Clara County. He died in 
San Jose, May 14, 1888. He resided in Nevada City, Nevada 
County, when he decided to embrace the profession of law. Though 
he had been in the State but -two years, his personality and attain- 
ments had so impressed themselves upon his fellow-citizens that they 
invited him, in 1857, to deliver the Fourth of July address in Nevada 
City. He consented to do so, but, to his amazement, he learned that 
it was the intention of the Committee to organize a burlesque pro- 
cession which should caricature the events that occurred at the 
nation's birth. He remonstrated with earnest eloquence against such 
a desecration of the day, and tried to stem the tide of buffoonery 
which seemed to be swamping the patriotic intelligence of his friends. 
But they outvoted him, and went on with their preparations. Under 
such circumstances, most men would have assumed an air of offended 
dignity and resigned from the position offered, lest they be deemed 
party to, and in a measure responsible for, the transgressions against 
the national feeling of others. But not so with Mr. Belden. He 
was made of sterner stuff. He occupied the position of " orator of 
the day," and delivered a rebuke, keen, sarcastic and scathing, that is 
remembered to this day. He, himself, was a pioneer, and also a hero, 
hence it is appropriate that his oration on the Pioneer Heroes of 
California should find place in this volume. 

** I ^HERE have been many orations delivered upon 
-*- the pioneers, and many of them are well worth 
careful perusal. But those that were delivered by men 
who were themselves pioneers, and were spoken to 
pioneers while the memories of pioneer days were still 
fresh, have a vigor and a personality about them that 
the orations of later days do not possess. Even less 



THE PIONEER HEROES 483 

than thirty years after the great gold excitement flooded 
the coast with men from all parts of the world, — as 
early as 1876, — Judge Belden, in his oration at San 
Jose, expresses the feeling that the event was far away 
and growingly remote in the past. As perhaps the best 
of the early day orations, it merits a place in this book. 
It was not a prepared and polished address. Those 
who heard it, and Judge Belden's friends, claim that 
it was a purely extemporaneous effort. If so, it stands 
forth as a model of vigorous English, of wonderful 
construction, of vivid power, as well as a truthful pano- 
rama of the scenes of the pioneer's life and experi- 
ences. After a few preliminary remarks, Judge 
Belden said: 

" For thirty years, not only over this State, but in 
many of the principal cities of the East, the pioneers 
of California have commemorated their advent to this 
coast. At each gathering, gifted speakers, with what- 
ever of genius, eloquence, poetry and pathos they could 
command, have told the story and illumined the lives and 
ways of the early pioneers. The paths of the men of 
Forty-nine lie before me, a beaten thoroughfare, a 
harvested field, its golden grain long since garnered, 
and to which I come at the eleventh hour a late and 
loitering gleaner. That a new generation has arisen 
since the event and the era we are celebrating, 
that there may be those to whom the story of 
that time may not sound like a thrice-told tale, 
that to these as new auditors this may come with 
any seeming of novelty, is an illusion by which, 
however willing, I cannot deceive myself; too many 



484 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

pens have been busy with the history of our pioneers. 
Harte, Mulford, and a score of others, with whatever 
of imagination might most embellish fact, have told 
to these newcomers far more than the one could ever 
have known or the other ever believed. Fact and fancy 
have been alike exhausted, and repeating with the wise 
King of Israel that there is no new thing under the sun, 
I must bring forth, from a sparsely filled storehouse, 
what I know to be old. 

"It is over thirty years since the report reached the 
East and flashed around the world of the discovery of 
gold in boundless quantities upon the banks of the 
American River. Exaggerated by repetition and mag- 
nified by distance, the El Dorado of the Pacific was 
represented as aland where, to any who chose to gather 
it, the fortune could be made in a month that elsewhere 
required the labor of a lifetime. Who does not recall 
the manner in which these marvelous reports were re- 
ceived and discussed on every hand and in every com- 
munity ? Who has not heard of the gatherings at the 
village store, the resolve of the restless and the ad- 
venturous, the reports each day of new parties who were 
selling out, sacrificing everything for the gold-fields by 
the Pacific; the fear that it might all be dug before they 
could reach the mines. How the contagion spread 
until the staid and contented felt an unwonted fever 
in their veins, and looked restlessly and longingly after 
these who were starting. Of the companies organized, 
in which the village Rothschild shared in the equip- 
ment for an interest of one-fourth or one-half the gains 
acquired. Of the thousands of machines invented and 



THE PIONEER HEROES 485 

constructed, equally ingenious, equally elaborate and 
alike worthless, by which gold mines were to be found, 
and worked when found. Of the counsels and ex- 
hortations of those who stayed and the promises of those 
who went; of the amount with which each resolved to be 
content, and the exact time he allotted to himself for 
acquiring it, and returning home. Of the diaries to be 
kept, the letters written ; of the notice in the local paper 
of each party as it departed, with the editorial assur- 
ance that, whoever else might fail, such men as that 
village sent forth must conquer success and make their 
mark in the world. Of the making up of trains for the 
plains, the gatherings of the men, the trades, the pur- 
chases of equipments, the bickerings, the misunder- 
standings. Of the men that every one wanted to secure 
because they were rough and more accustomed to out- 
door life, and w'hose presence must make the journey 
successful and secure, and who as a rule proved the 
most worthless and inefficient vagabonds in the camp. 
Of the rotten ships that went from Eastern ports laden 
with precious lives and were heard of no more. Of the 
diaries kept for a few days or weeks with scrupulous 
care and diligence, then the omission, first of a day or 
two, then of longer intervals, and then wholly aban- 
doned. Of the new surprises that awaited them on 
every hand, when the worn and wearied voyagers by 
sea and by land finally reached the end of their jour- 
neyings. Of the reports, bewildering in their con- 
tradictions, as to where the best mines were to be found; 
of those who paraded sacks of gold and lauded to 
the skies Northern or Southern mines, Mokelumne 



486 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Hill, Hangto-wTi, and told of fortunes to be had for the 

picking them up; while back from the same place 
came a horde, ragged, foot-sore and hungry, cursing 
the State and the day they saw it, and especially the 
localities thus loudly commended. Of the grave de- 
liberation of the newcomer as to whether he should 
look for coarse or fine gold diggings, one day yielding 
to the fascination of a pile of nuggets, and resolving to 
look for mines with lumps about the size of a hen's egg, 
wavering as he saw the sacks of fine dust from the Yuba, 
and finally concluding that, as gold was purchased by 
weight and not by bulk, he would take his fortune in the 
finer dust; of his journeyings to the mines, his failures, 
his disappointments and disgust. Of the letters home, 
written at first with methodical punctuality, but finally 
taking the road of the abandoned diary. Of the num- 
berless companies formed and expeditions planned to 
fmd some mine of marvelous richness, of which but one 
man knew the location ; of the senseless explanation he 
gave for not having at least a specimen of these hidden 
treasures, — sometimes Indians, want of provisions, 
or the like, — and the uniform credulity with which 
we swallowed it all and fitted out trains, and sent 
parties with this fraud, only to know we had been 
deceived, and ending generally in an unsuccessful effort 
to hang the deceiver. Of adventures by the Yuba, the 
forks of the American River, of Gold Bluff and Gold 
Lake, and the numberless golden mirages that danced 
before the adventurers of those days and lured them 
on to disappointment and disaster. Of the much that 
was noble and grand and self-sacrificing, and much 



THE PIONEER HEROES 487 

too that was wild and wicked and weird in those men 
and in those fitful, feverish times. 

" We remember oiir feelings as we left the j^omes of 
our nativity and fancied we could never be contented 
elsewhere, until, as new interests, associations and 
affections grew up around us, the distance seemed im- 
perceptibly at first to widen between us, and when we 
recalled the friends and scenes of former d^ys they 
presented themselves with a vague, distant mistiness, 
almost as though they were the recollections of another 
and not of ourselves. 

" These are recollections common to us all, the rem- 
iniscences alike of the wanderer from Pike County, 
Missouri, Posey County, Indiana, the native of New 
England and the emigrant from the Rhine. And to the 
old pioneers, with these recollections of thirty years 
pressing upon us, how feeble must appear any attempt 
at portraiture in words. While I speak, like the whisper 
that wakes a hundred sleeping echoes, Memory is 
marshalling before each of us the events of his Cali- 
fornia career. Like a panorama, the years of our 
pioneer life are passing in retrospect before us — the 
kindred that we left behind; the hopes that buoyed us 
up and lured us onward; the fortunes for good or for 
evil that have befallen each and that made up the check- 
ered warp and woof of the years that are but a memory. 
Could one but paint in words this picture as each now 
beholds it for himself ; could I indeed describe what we 
all feel and know, the story of the pioneers could indeed 
be told, their memories fittingly enshrined for all time 
to come. 



488 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

" This task, grateful though it would be, is alike 
beyond either the capacity I bring or the time I have 
allotted io myself for these remarks. There is, however, 
a feature of pioneer life, one class of the great flood-tide 
that 1849 cast upon this coast, that has been but little 
considered. It is a foible of humanity ever to worship 
at the shrine of success, and to follow with blind lauda- 
tions the favorites of fortune; the unsuccessful, equally 
or more deserving though they may be, find little place 
either in the memories of men or the chronicles of his- 
tory. The stories of the pioneers are no exception to 
this rule. The successes and the achievements of the 
few are blazoned to the world ; of the many who fought 
and fell in the vanguard of our heroes in the battle 
of life, the story of their struggle ended with them. 

" Who does not recall, in the adventures of the early 
days, the thousands that, smitten by disease, essayed 
the voyage round the Cape, the perils of the plains, 
with the cry ' Health or a speedy grave.' To not one 
in a score of these came the coveted boon of health. 
Their resting-places mark the pathway of our empire 
from the banks of the Mississippi to the shores of the 
Pacific, and until the sea shall give up her dead none 
may know of those pioneer hosts that found their 
resting-places in the dark depths of the ocean. Suffer- 
ing and disease were their companions as they journeyed 
hither. Pestilence and hardship welcomed their ar- 
rival. By the rivers whose golden sands had lured them 
from peaceful homes and loving friends, they fell by 
thousands, unknown and unremembered. 

" Who does not remember, in his own camp, or that of 



THE PIONEER HEROES 489 

his neighbor, the delicate boy, the pet of the company, 
wholly unfitted for the hardships of the mines, but am- 
bitious and hopeful, scorning the thought that he was 
not equal to any exertion and every position, bearing his 
part in the rugged work of his comrades, and pretending 
not to feel that day by day his powers were wasting 
away; the gentle strategy which gave to the failing boy 
the easiest of the labors of the camp; and, finally, the 
kindly counsel and the generous aid that returned him 
to die amid the scenes of his youth and the friends of his 
childhood ? 

" Who among the miners of those days has not scores 
upon scores of times given prodigally that some one, 
a stranger, perchance, whom he had never seen, might 
close his eyes in his old distant home? We are told 
that by such deeds treasures are laid up in heaven. If 
this be so, many a noble pioneer has the fortune awaiting 
him in the hereafter that was denied him here. 

" Then there was one who delayed his going till 
disease pressed so fiercely upon him that the journey 
could not be made, and he knew that he must die 
amid strangers in a strange land. What feature of 
pioneer life presents more noble characteristics than the 
cabin of the sick and dying miner? Brave and un- 
complaining was the sufferer, kind and gentle his 
watchers. When the last letters were dictated to loved 
ones, the last directions given, as he looked upon the 
familiar faces, while the shadows darkened about him, 
there came to these, his tried and faithful comrades, 
his last words — they were the last utterances of 
thousands — ' I am going, boys. You have been very 



490 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

kind to me. God bless you all.' * God bless you, old 
boy,' would be the sobbing response, the last whispered 
benediction to the ear of the dying man. And then, 
beneath some lordly oak or stately pine, they fashioned 
his grave, and upon a rough board, or a fragment of 
stone, they scrawled his name and the place of his birth 
and the day of his death, and placed it above — and the 
pioneer's history was ended. All over the world there 
are thousands of loving, hoping hearts that have waited 
through all these long and weary years for the coming 
of these slumberers by the rivers, these dead of our 
early pioneers. Green be their memories and peace to 
their ashes, these our brothers gone before us. 

" Another and a more numerous class are those who 
have failed of success, and are counted among the 
fallen in the battle of life. They are that class upon 
whose every effort some malign influence ever casts 
a blight. Energetic and industrious, possessed of every 
quality that should command and does merit success, 
their pathway is one of unbroken disaster and mis- 
fortune. Born to disaster, flood and lire, casualties of 
every form make these hapless ones their sport. Un- 
lucky the world terms them, and if by this is meant 
Fortune that only sees that she may smite, the term is 
well applied. Nowhere was this class more largely 
represented than in the mining regions and in the days 
of 1850. We can to-day, each of us, recall, perhaps, 
some of us in our own experiences, the fields and the 
efforts of these hapless adventurers. Such we have seen 
locate a mining claim, where upon either hand fortunes 
had been found, and every indication that human 



THE PIONEER HEROES 491 

judgment or foresight could suggest showed that the 
same was before them. We have seen them enter wdth 
strong hands and buoyant hopes upon a work that may 
well-nigh task the patience and the resource of a State. 
We have seen the tunnel that was to unlock their 
golden treasure driven year after year, for hundreds 
and thousands of feet, through the flinty rock, steadily, 
persistently and untiringly; against obstacles and 
embarrassments that might well have brought hopeless 
discouragement, they struggled on, and at last, prema- 
turely aged with the labors and hardships of this toil, 
with the best years of their lives gone, maimed and 
crippled by the casualties of their enterprise, financially 
beggared, they learned that there was nothing before 
them, that their work was worthless, their lives wasted, 
and, broken alike in body and in mind, they must seek 
elsewhere new fields for toil, must begin again the 
battle of life. 

" What wonder that when long years of such exertion 
bring to the toiler but Dead Sea apples, bitterness and 
ashes, when he sees upon every hand wealth that recom- 
penses efforts but a tithe of his own — what wonder 
that in bitterness of heart he arraigns the Providence 
that permits all this ; that he looks wdth scorn and loath- 
ing on a world where Fortune proves thus partial and 
unkind; what wonder that among the many that have 
met but successive misfortunes and unbroken adversity, 
there should be many discouraged, misanthropic and 
reckless men. And when I see one of these worn and 
broken men still clinging to the scene of his former 
labors, if much of the manhood and nobleness of his 



492 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

early years seems lost or obscured, I reflect what hopes, 
what purposes, what affections may not have been in 
him crushed out in these withering disappointments, 
and, in the language of the Master, I say that to him 
that has suffered much, much should be forgiven. 

" I have spoken of the pioneers of thirty years ago, 
for it is their advent to this coast we to-day commem- 
orate; of the miners and the mountains, for it was 
there my own early associations were had. Of the 
pioneers in the valleys and the builders of the cities, 
we only know that they shared fully the measure of 
disappointment that befell their brothers in the mines. 
Where to-day are the cities and their founders that in 
1850 lined the Bay of San Francisco — paper creations 
that were to rival London in magnitude, Paris in beauty, 
and New York in growth and prosperity ? Who to-day 
can recall the name of either town or founder of these 
cities? What hopes and expectations vanished with 
them we may never know, for their projectors have 
disappeared as completely as the builders of the mounds 
in the valleys of the West. 

" I have spoken thus far of the failures and misfor- 
tunes of these former times. The successes have been 
many, and have been marked. They are known and 
need not be repeated. The spirit of the old Argonauts 
still survives. Bold, fearless explorers, they are still 
searching for the golden fleece. From California to 
the frozen zone, not a river, a stream, or a mountain 
that has not been tested and tried by these hardy 
adventurers. And the deserts of Arizona and New 
Mexico equally attest their energy and enterprise. 



THE PIONEER HEROES 493 

Nor do the boundaries of the nation place any barrier 
to their progress; they are pouring in a resistless flood 
upon the land of the Aztec, and Mexico wakes from the 
slumber of centuries at the trampling of our peaceful 
cohorts. 

" The pioneer adventures of to-day will be the success- 
ful enterprises of the future, and the golden fleece 
that could not be won in the mountains will be found 
in our teeming valleys, our vine-garlanded hillsides. 
Wherever enterprise or inclination may guide their steps, 
the hope and the benediction that accompanied us to 
this new land go forth with them. And if, like many of 
us, they shall fall or shall fail in the field that is before 
them, may they ever merit success though they find 
but adversity. 

" Pioneers of 1849, ^^ the thirty years of our Cali- 
fornia life, much of the time allotted to man has passed 
away. For many of us the shadows are to-day length- 
ening eastward. The crest on the waves of a sea that 
beats in ceaseless cadence on the shores of Time each 
year sees many known and honored among us swept into 
the still depths of the hereafter. Ours be it to know 
that, whether remembered or forgotten, the work of 
our hands shall outlive the names of its founders, and 
that the empire we leave behind us, the nation's bul- 
wark by her western sea, shall endure for all time, the 
handiwork and the monument of the Pioneers of the 
Golden State." 



CHAPTER XLIII 

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

'"T^HE foregoing chapters have been gleaned during 
-■- a careful study of California literature extending 
over the past thirty years. Many of the later chapters 
are the result of personal intercourse with the heroes 
named. Hence it is impossible, in every case, to give 
original sources. The following list, however, will 
be an excellent starting-point for those who wish to 
study these men and women of California's nobility. 

At the outset it may generally be stated that the his- 
tories of Hubert Howe Bancroft can be consulted, with 
advantage, on all the earlier chapters of this book. 

Poolers Index will also suggest many interesting 
magazine articles to those who wish to study the subjects 
further in a general way. Every high school student 
should be made familiar with Poolers Index to Periodical 
Literature and the great uses to which it can be put. 
Every good library is provided with it, and students will 
find it of incalculable help. 

Chapter I. Alargon. The original story of Alargon's 
journey up the Colorado River may be read in Hak- 
luyfs Voyages. In Stories of Adventure, by Edward 
Everett Hale (Little, Brown, and Co.), on page 102, 
explanation is given of the origin of the name " Call- 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 



495 



fornia," but it should not be forgotten that the reference 
there is to the peninsula which UUoa had discovered, 
and not to the State we to-day know as one of the United 
States. Hubert Howe Bancroft, in Volume I of History 
of California (Volume XVIII of Works), gives a chapter 
on " The Discovery of California " and the origin of the 
name, pages 64-109. The Romance oj the Colorado 
River, by F. S. Dellenbaugh (Putnam's), contains two 
good chapters on Ulloa and Alargon, and the title of 
the book is no misnomer for the rest of the contents. 

Chapter II. Melchior Diaz. The vast story of 
Coronado's expedition is to be found in the original 
historian's narrative: Account 0} the Expedition to 
Cibola which took place in the year 1540, in which all 
those settlements, their ceremonies and customs, are 
described. Written by Pedro de Castaneda, oj Najera. 
The original is translated, with notes and an illumina- 
tive introduction, by George Parker Winship, in Part I, 
Fourteenth Annual Report 0} the Bureau oj Ethnology 
(1892-93). 

There is also a chapter in Stories oj Adventure, by 
Edward Everett Hale, on Era Marco and Coronado's 
expedition. 

Chapter III. Junipero Serra. Palou's Lije oj Serra 
has been poorly and partially rendered into English 
by Eather Adam. This, however, is out of print and 
hard to obtain. If enough schools and others w^ould ask 
for its translation and publication, it could be speedily 
done in a satisfactory manner. Charles E. Lummis 
in Volume 16 of Out West publishes his translation 
of Serra's hitherto unpublished Diary oj Servo's trip 



496 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

from Loreto to San Diego, March 28 — June 30, 1769. 
Missions and Missionaries of California, by Zephyrin 
Englehardt, the official historian of the Franciscans in 
California, is an excellent work. It may be obtained by 
writing Father Englehardt at Watsonville, California, 
or at any Franciscan establishment in the State. In 
my own In and Out of the Old Missions of California 
(Little, Brown, and Co.) there is much of Serra and his 
work, and Bancroft's Histories contain more. 

Chapter IV. Juan Bautista de Anza. The best 
account of the heroic captain's exploits is found in 
On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer, Garces' Diary, 1775, 
1776. Translated by Elliott Coues and published by 
Francis P. Harper, New York, 1900. 

Chapter V. Padre Sarria. Bancroft's Histories, and 
Shea's History of the Catholic Missions among the 
Indian Tribes of the United States, 1 529-1854. 

Chapter VI. Pattie. The Personal Narrative of 
James O. Pattie of Kentucky. Reprinted in 1905, in 
Early Western Travels, by A. H. Clark Co., Cleveland. 

Chapter VII. J. S. Smith. Bancroft's Histories. 

Chapter VIII. John Bidwell. A Journey to Cali- 
for?iia, being Bidwell's diary of the trip across to Cali- 
fornia, May 18 to November 6, 1841. John Bidwell, 
by C. C. Royce, Chico, California, 1906. Articles by 
Bidwell in The Century Magazine on " The First 
Emigrant Train to California-" (November, 1890); 
" Life in California before the Gold Discovery " 
(December, 1890); "Fremont in the Conquest of 
California " (February, 189 1). 

Chapter IX. Charles T. Stanton. McGlashan's 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 497 

History of the Donner Party (A. L. Bancroft, San Fran- 
cisco, 1 881). This is the most rehable account of this 
party yet written. Mrs. Houghton, George Donner's 
daughter, is now writing her story, and she is expending 
great care upon it. 

Chapter X. Virginia Reed. McGlashan's Donner 
Party (as above) and " Across the Plains in the Donner 
Party " in Century Magazine (July, 1891), by Virginia 
Reed Murphy. I also have in preparation the Story of 
Virginia Reed Murphy, which I hope to publish in 
1911-12. 

Chapter XI. Manly and Rogers. Death Valley in 
'49, by W. L. Manly. Now out of print. I can supply 
copies, however, so long as they last, for $1.75 each. 

Chapter XII. Many fugitive newspaper articles 
have been written on the subject of this chapter. See 
also Bancroft, and Illustrated Sketches of Death Valley, 
by John R. Spears (Rand, McNally and Co., Chicago, 
1892). 

Chapter XIII. Carson and Beale. There are several 
" Lives " of Kit Carson. A good one is by Mrs. Jessie 
Benton Fremont. The one I have used is Kit Carson'' s 
Life and Adventures, by Col. D. C. Peters (Dustin, 
Gilman and Co., Hartford, 1874). Poolers Index will 
also give many references to the great scout. 

Chapter XIV. Consult Poole's Index and books on 
pioneer times. 

Chapter XV. /. P. Beckwourth. In 1854, 1855, T. 
D. Bonner visited Beckwourth in California and there 
wrote, from his own dictation: The Life and Adven- 
tures of James P. Beckwourth, Mountaineer, Scout, 



498 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Pioneer, and Chief of the Crow Nation oj Indians. 
Charles G. Leland edited this for T, Fisher Unwin 
(London, 1892), and this EngHsh edition is the one that 
I have used. 

Chapter XVI, The Pony Express and Overland Stage 
Lines. Bancroft's, Hittell's and other Cahfornia his- 
tories, and numerous magazine articles (consult Poole), 
will give a much larger conception of these great under- 
takings than I have given in this brief chapter. In- 
man's Santa Fe Trail, and Seventy Years on the Fron- 
tier, by Alexander Majors (Rand, McNally and Co., 
1893). There are also two excellent articles entitled 
" Knights of the Lash," by Major Ben C. Truman, in 
Overland Monthly (March and April, 1898), and two 
others entitled " Overland Staging on the Thirty- 
second Parallel Route in the Fifties," by Jesse Edward 
Thompson, in Overland (August and September, 
1888), I do not know of anything in American 
literature that gives so graphic, vivid and truthful a 
description of the overland stage as does Mark Twain 
in Roughing It. (Harpers & Bros., New York). 

Chapter XVII. William Taylor. The three follow- 
ing works are all written by Bishop Taylor: Story oj 
My Life (Hunt and Eaton, New York, 1895), California 
Life Illustrated (New York, 1858) and Seven Years'* 
Street Preaching in San Francisco (New York, 1857). 

Chapter X\TII. James King of William. Bancroft's 
and Hittell's Histories, and Representative and Leading 
Men of the Pacific, by Oscar T. Shuck (Bacon and Co., 
San Francisco, 1870). 

Chapter XIX. Thomas Starr King. See Poole's 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 499 

Index for magazine articles, Shuck's Representative 
Men (see above), A Tribute to Thomas Starr King, by 
R. Frothingham (Ticknor and Fields, Boston, 1865), 
and Memoir of King by Edwin P, Whipple in Chris- 
tianity and Humanity (Houghton, Mifflin and Co., 
Boston, 1897). There is also an interesting reference 
to King and Bret Harte in Overland Monthly. 

Chapter XX, James Capen Adams. The Adven- 
tures of James Capen Adams, Mountaineer and Grizzly 
Bear Hunter 0} Calijornia, by Theodore H. Hittell, 
1861. In July, 1910, Mr. Hittell writes me that C. 
Scribner's Sons (New York) are preparing to issue a 
new edition of this most interesting and romantic 
book. 

Chapter XXI, Snow-Shoe Thompson. See Dan de 
Quille's article in Overland Monthly (February, 1881), 
from which all the quotations of the chapter are 
made. 

Chapter XXII. Clarence King and Richard Cotter. 
Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada, by Clarence King 
(C. Scribner's Sons, New York). 

Chapter XXIII. Theodore D. Judah. The Reports 
of Legislative Proceedings in the California Legislature, 
and Theodore H. Hittell 's History of California. 

Chapter XXIV. The Builders of the Central Pacific 
Ry. Hittell's and Bancroft's Histories. Also see Poole's 
Index for many fugitive articles, and The Iron Way, by 
Sarah Pratt Carr (A. C. McClurg and Co,, Chicago, 
1907), 

Chapter XXV. Stephen J. Field. The California 
Law Reports contain Judge Field's Decisions, My 



50O HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

chief work of reference was Judge Pomeroy's Some 
Account of the Work oj Stephen J. Field, published 
privately in 1881. 

Chapter XXVI. James Lick. Bancroft's and Hit- 
tell's Histories. Consult Poole's Index for magazine 
articles, especially those in Overland Monthly. E. S. 
Holden's Handbook to the Lick Observatory. 

Chapter XXVII. Adolph Sutro. The Mineral Re- 
sources oj the United States, and the Importance and 
Necessity of Inaugurating a Rational System 0} Mining 
with Especial Reference to the Comstock Lode and the 
Sutro Tunnel in Nevada (Baltimore, John Murphy 
and Co., 1868). Report of the Commissioners and Evi- 
dence, etc. (Washington, 1872). 

Chapter XXVIII. J. W. North. Consult Poole's 
Index for articles on Riverside. 

Chapter XXIX. J. W. Powell. Report of the Sec- 
ond Irrigation Congress, held in Los Angeles. Report 
of the Land of the Arid Regions of the United States, 
by J. W. Powell (Washington, 1879); Also, as 
evidences of Powell's great work for science and 
humanity, see Reports of United States Geological 
Survey, and Reports of Bureau of American Ethnology. 

Chapter XXX. A. S. Hallidie. Consult Poole's 
Index. 

Chapter XXXI. John Gill Lemmon and Sara P. 
Lemmon. Overland Monthly (April and May, 1883, 
and September, 1888); California State Forester's 
Reports, 1 886-1 889. 

Chapter XXXII. John Muir. Consult Poole's 
Index, The Mountains of California, by John Muir 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 501 

(N. Y. 1894, The Century Co.), Our National Parks, 
Stickeen, The Story of a Dog, The Outlook (June 6, 

1903)- 
Chapter XXXIII. Helen Hunt Jackson. Consult 

Poolers Index. Mrs. Jackson's three books dealing 

with Indians are: A Century of Dishonor, Ramona, 

and Glimpses of California and the Missions, all by 

Little, Brown, and Co., Boston. Also see Through 

Ramona's Country, by George Wharton James (Little, 

Brown, and Co.). 

Chapter XXXIV. H. H. Bancroft. See his His- 
tories and especially his Literary Industries (Harper's, 
1891). 

Chapter XXXV. Luther Burbank. Consult Poolers 
Index. New Creations in Plant Life, by W. S. Harw^ood 
(MacMillan's, 1905), is the story of Burbank's life 
and work, intelligently and sympathetically told. 

Chapter XXX\T;. Henry George. Progress and 
Poverty, by Henry George, Life of Henry George, by 
Henry George, Jr. Also consult Poole's Index. MX 
of Henry George's Works (Doubleday, Page & Co.). 

Chapter XXXVII. T. S. C. Lowe. Harper's Weekly 
and Leslie's Weekly during war times. Consult Poole's 
Index, and Scenic Mount Lowe, by George Wharton 
James. 

Chapter XXXVIII. Wozencraft, Rockwood and Chaf- 
fey. The Wonders of the Colorado Desert, George 
Wharton James (Little, Brown, and Co.). Local 
newspapers from 1900. 

Chapter XXXIX. Edwin Markham. Consult Poole's 
Index, The Man with the Hoer and other Poems, and 



50 2 HEROES OF CALIFORNIA 

Lincoln and other Poems, by Edwin Markham (Mc- 
Clure's, New York). 

Chapter XL. Stephen M. White. Stephen M, 
White, by L. E. Mosher and R. W. Gates, 2 volumes 
(Times Mirror Co., Los Angeles, 1903). 

Chapter XLI. William E. Smythe. Read articles 
by W. E. Smythe in Out West; also Irrigation Age, 
which he founded and edited. Consult Poole's Index. 
Also The Conquest of Arid America, Constructive De- 
mocracy, both by W. E, Smythe (MacMillan). 

Chapter XLII. Judge David Belden. Life oj 
David Belden (Belden Bros., New York, 1891). 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Adams, James Capen, hunting 
instincts condemned, xii ; a 
picturesque figure, i8o; life 
by Hittell, i8o; birth of, i8o; 
attacked by tiger, i8o; ar- 
rival in California, i8i ; 
takes to wilderness, i8i ; de- 
scribes grizzly bear, i8i ; his 
camp, 183 ; an early experi- 
ence, 184; thrilling adven- 
tures, 186-192; companion 
killed, 192 ; adventure in the 
Yosemite, 192, 193 ; settles 
down, 194. 

Alargon, Hernando de, sent by 
Mendoza to cooperate with 
Coronado, 2 ; discovers and 
explores Colorado River, 3 ; 
cautious and determined, 3. 

Annals of San Francisco, quo- 
tation from, 138-139. 

Anza, Juan Bautista de, in 
command at Tubac, 17; to 
establish road to Upper Cal- 
ifornia, 17 ; attacked by 
Apaches, 17 ; dangers sur- 
rounding, 18; crosses desert, 
18, 19; party divided, 19; 
reaches Monterey, 19 ; re- 
turns to Tubac, 19; to estab- 
lish settlement on San Fran- 
cisco Bay, 20; promotion of, 
20; his party, 20; Garces' 
diary of expedition, 20, 21, 
suffering of party, 22; 
reaches San Gabriel, 22 ; goes 
to San Diego, 22 ; resumes 
journey north, 22; arrives at 
Monterey, 22 ; illness of, 23 ; 
arrives at San Francisco, 23; 
returns to Sonora, 23. 



Apache Indians, attack de 
Anza's party, 17. 

Army of the West, 94, engage- 
ment with Mexicans, 96 ; in 
great danger, 99; relieved by 
Stockton, 103. 

Ashley, Gen. W. H., engages 
Jedediah Smith as one of 
band of trappers, 40; estab- 
lishes post near Salt Lake, 
40. 

Aubery, F. X., Pony Express 
rider, 132; remarkable ride 
of. 133- 

Austin, Mary, pictures of old 
Mission life in Isidro, 24. 

B 

Bailey, James, elected first 
secretary of Central Pacific 
R. R. Co., 226. 

Baker, Ray Stannard, article on 
John Muir, 338. 

Bancroft, Hubert Howe, the 
collecting of material for his- 
tory, 376; his birth, 377; set- 
tles in California, 378 ; the 
beginning of his library, 378, 
379 ; its growth, 380, 381 ; re- 
verses, 383 ; the work com- 
pleted, 384. 

Beale. Lieutenant, carries des- 
patches to Kearny, 96; vol- 
unteers with Carson to go 
for aid, 99; gets through 
Mexican lines, lOi ; reaches 
San Diego, 102; illness of, 
103. 

Beatty, John C, promotes plan 
to reclaim the Colorado Des- 
ert, 440; abandons scheme, 
441- 



5o6 



INDEX 



Beckwourth, James P., methods 
condemned, xii ; Leiand's 
Life of, 109; encounter with 
grizzly bear, 1 10; birth of, 
no; Bonner's story of, no; 
Ina Coolbrith's story of, in; 
her impressions of him, 112; 
discovers murder of Reed 
family, iit,; trails murderers, 
114; captures them, 114; 
story of murder, 114; exe- 
cutes murderers, 114; hatred 
of liquor traffic with Indians, 
116; discovery of Beck- 
wourth's Pass, 117, 118; de- 
scription of country, 118; 
plans for building road, 119; 
construction begun, 120; ill- 
ness of, 120; recovery, 121; 
leads first train through 
Pass, 121 ; his losses by ven- 
ture, 121 ; chief of trading- 
post, 122. 

Belden, David, sketch of, 482; 
address on Pioneer Heroes 
of California, 483-493. 

Bibliography, 494-502. 

Bidwell, John, settles on Ran- 
cho Chico, 45; birth of, 45; 
walks to Cincinnati, 45 ; ad- 
venturous disposition, 46; 
settles on Platte Purchase, 
46; teaches school, 46; his 
claim "jumped," 47; joins 
Robidoux's party, 47 ; secures 
outfit, 47 ; the party strength- 
ened, 48; his journal, 48, 52; 
fear of Indians, 48; party 
divided, 49; difficulties of 
road, 50; reaches California, 
51 ; assistant to Captain Sut- 
ter, 52 ; dismantles Fort Ross, 
52 ; in Sacramento Valley, 
52 ; makes map, 53 ; becomes 
a Mexican citizen, 53; joins 
movement for independence, 
53 ; C. C. Royce's account of, 
53; appointed alcade by Fre- 



mont, S3 ; carries news of 
discovery of gold, 53; his 
work for Statehood, 54; his 
politics, 54; efficient service 
during Civil War, 54; Pro- 
hibition candidate for Presi- 
dent, 55 ; his treatment of the 
Indians, 55; his death, 55. 

"Big Four" (Huntington, 
Stanford, Crocker, Hopkins), 
methods often condemned, 
xii ; Judah attracts attention 
of, 225 ; their various call- 
ings, 225 ; subscriptions to 
stock, 226. 

Bonner, T. D., Life of James 
P. Beckwourth, no. 

Books Recommended, vi, vii. 

Boothe, C. B., works for irri- 
gation, 473. 

" Boston," rider on first Pony 
Express Route, 127. 

Burbank, Luther, his birth, 
385; settles in California, 
385; early life, 386; illness, 
386; disappointments, 387; 
characteristics, 387-389; a 
large order and a daring ex- 
periment, 391, 392; his sys- 
tem of selection, 392-394; his 
integrity, 395 ; experimental 
work, 396 ; recognition of its 
value, 396; opinion of by 
Jordan, 397 ; his influence on 
the popular mind, 398, 399; 
work for humanity, 400. 

Burnett, Peter H., elected first 
Governor of California, 124. 



California, History of, books 

bearing on, vi, vii. 
Carr, Sarah Pratt, quotations 

from, 231, 236. 
Carson, Kit. on way east with 

Fremont's despatches, 94 ; 

turns back with Kearny's 



INDEX 



507 



Army of the West, 94; vol- 
unteers with Beale to go for 
aid, 99; gets through Mexi- 
can lines, loi ; reaches San 
Diego, 102. 

Casey, James P,. duel with 
Bagley, 167; attacked in 
Bulletin by King, 167 ; alter- 
cation with King, 168; mur- 
ders King, 168; Vigilance 
Committee recalled, 168; 
taken from jail, 169; trial of, 
by Committee, 169; execu- 
tion of, 170. 

Castaiieda, account of Diaz's 
adventures, 4, 5. 

Central Pacific Railroad Co., 
conceived and organized by 
Judah, 221 ; convention for 
organization, 224; first at- 
tempt fails, 224; magnitude 
of task, 225 ; organization 
perfected, 226 ; national aid 
granted, 227 ; work begun, 
228; connected with Union 
Pacific, 231 ; difficulties of 
building, 232; opposition to, 
237; finances improve, 238; 
obstacles to construction, 
240; Chinese labor on, 241; 
Sierras crossed, 241 ; pay- 
ment for completed road, 
241 ; rivalry with Union 
Pacific, 242 ; the last spike, 
243- 

Chafifey, George, settles in Cali- 
fornia, 441 ; developes water 
system at Etiwanda and On- 
tario, 442 ; developes the 
mutual-company idea, 442, 
443; electric lighting, 443; 
Ontario a " model colony," 
444; Australian work. 444, 
445; return to California, 
445 ; appealed to by Rock- 
wood, 446; takes up plan to 
reclaim Colorado Desert, 
446; difficulties and litiga- 



tion, 446-449; Imperial Val- 
ley, 449; prosperity due to 
him, 450. 

Chaffey, W. B., constructs 
water system at Etiwanda 
and Ontario, 442; Australian 
work, 444, 445 ; return to 
California, 445; appealed to 
by Rockwood, 446; takes up 
plan to reclaim Colorado 
Desert, 446. 

Chittenden, Hiram M., Reser- 
voirs in the Arid Region, 
472. 

Coolbrith, Ina, meeting with 
Beckwourth, iii; her im- 
pressions of him, 112. 

Cora, Charles, kills Wm. H. 
Richardson, 166; trial de- 
manded by King, 166 ; trial 
of, 166; disagreement of 
jury, 167; taken from jail by 
Vigilantes, 169; trial of, by 
Committee, 169; execution 
of, 170. 

Coronado. See Vasquez. 

Cortes, Hernando, ambitious to 
extend his power, i ; ap- 
points Ulloa to command 
expedition of discovery, 
I. 

Cotter, Richard, joins Clarence 
King in mountaineering trip, 
209; thrilling experiences as- 
cending Mount Tyndall, 209- 
216; the dangerous descent, 
216-220; his coolness and 
bravery, 219. 

Coues, Dr., gives account of de 
Anza's routine, 20, 21. 

Crespi, Juan, companion of 
Serra, 9; sails from Cadiz, 
9; arrives at Vera Cruz, 10. 

Crocker, Charles, in charge of 
construction of Central Pa- 
cific Railroad, 239; his abil- 
ity, 239; secures Chinese 
labor, 241. 



5o8 



INDEX 



D 

Dana, R. H., Jr., Two Years 
Before the Mast, 104. 

Davidson, George, quotation 
from, on James Lick, 267. 

Davis, Horace, comments on 
Thomas Starr King, 175, 176. 

Death Valley Party, 74-93. 

De Smet, Father, joins party 
with Bidwell, 48; leaves 
party at Soda Springs, 49. 

Diaz, Melchior, with Coronado, 
4; sent to find Alargon, 4; 
reaches gulf of California, 
4; Castaiieda relates story of, 
4; foils Indian plot, 4; 
watchful and prudent com- 
mander, 5. 

Dolores Mission, selected by 
de Anza as site of San Fran- 
cisco Mission, 23. 

Du Bois, Constance Goddard, 
pictures of old Mission life 
in A Soul in Bronze, 24. 

Duran, Padre, accuses Smith 
of enticing neophytes to des- 
ert, 42; Smith's explanation 
to, 42. 



EcHEANDiA, Mexican Governor, 
Pattie's hatred of, 31 ; harsh 
treatment of Pattie, 31 ; per- 
mits Smith to purchase sup- 
plies, 41 ; tries to detain 
Smith, 41 ; Smith gives bond 
to, 44- 

Etiwanda, town started by 
Chafifey, 442; its great suc- 
ce_ss,_ 442; Australian Com- 
mission at, 444. 



Field, _ Stephen J., decisions 
questioned, xii ; settles in 
California, 245; alcade, 246; 
in State legislature, 246; 



fearlessness as judge, 250- 
259; devotion to principle, 
2O0. 

Fitzpatrick, Captain, joins 
party with Bidwell, 48; tries 
to calm fears of party, 49; 
goes to meet Indians, 49. 

Flint, Wilson, quotation from, 
137- 

Forbes, A. S. C, pictures of 
old Mission life in Mission 
Tales in the Days of the 
Dons, 24. 

Fremont, John Charles, no spe- 
cial chapter on, x; fully 
treated in all State histories, 
X ; his career commended, x ; 
appoints Bidwell alcade of 
San Luis Rey, 53 ; sends des- 
patches by Carson, 94; 
elected United States Sena- 
tor, 124. 



Garces, Julian, diary of de 
Anza's expedition, 20, 21. 

George, Henry, birth, 401 ; con- 
ception of his idea, 401-403; 
courage and independence, 
404; editor of Sacramento 
Reporter, 405 ; opposed to 
Central Pacific Railway Co., 
policy, 405 ; Our Land and 
Land Policy, 406-408; his 
speeches, 408-410; Progress 
and Poverty, 411-414; diffi- 
culties of publication, 412; 
its popularity, 414; lecturing 
tours, 415 ; New York may- 
oralty campaign, 415; his 
death, 416; appreciation of 
him, 416. 

Gold, discovery of, in Califor- 
nia, by Marshall, 123. 

Graves, W. C. finds body of 
Charles T. Stanton, 62,- 

Grey, Sir George, quotation 



INDEX 



509 



from letter to Henry George, 

413- 
Gwin, William M., elected 
United States Senator, 124. 



H 

Hallidie, Andrew S., his in- 
ventive genius, 317-319; the 
cable road, 320; the Mount 
Lowe railway, 321. 

Hamilton, Sam, rider on first 
Pony Express Route, 127. 

Harte, Bret, vivid pictures of 
California life, viii; quota- 
tion from, xi. 

Haslam, Robert H., " Pony 
Bob," rider on first Pony 
Express Route, 127; narra- 
tive of, 129-132. 

Hayes, Colonel Jack, com- 
mands volunteer corps in 
Paiuti War, 129. 

Hittell, Theodore H., quota- 
tion from, on James King, 
161, 165; life of James 
Capen Adams, 180; tribute 
to Theodore P. Judah, 229; 
on Adolph Sutro, 289. 

Holt, L. M., developes, with 
Chaffey, the mutual-company 
water system, 442, 443. 

Hopkins, elected treasurer of 
Central Pacific R. R. Co., 
226. 

Huntington, Collis P., elected 
vice-president Central Pacific 
R. R. Co., 226; ability as fi- 
nancier, 237; opposes San 
Pedro harbor, 460 ; contro- 
versy with White, 461, 462; 
meeting with White, 462; 
opinion of White, 463. 



Irish, John P.. tribute to 
Luther Burbank, 389. 



J 

Jackson, Helen Hunt, pictures 
of old Mission life in Ra- 
■mona, 24; espouses the cause 
of the Indian, 364; The Cen- 
tury of Dishonor, 364; con- 
troversy with Schurz, 365 ; 
commissioned by Indian De- 
partment, 366; plans her 
novel, 367-372; Raniona, 372; 
its influence, 373. 

Jayme, Padre, murdered by 
Indians, 22. 

Jordan, David Starr, tribute to 
Luther Burbank, 397. 

Judah, Theodore D., birth of, 
222; arrives in California, 
222; builds short railroad 
from Sacramento, 222 ; plans 
transcontinental line, 223 ; as 
delegate to Washington in its 
interest, 224; mission fails, 
224 ; the " Big Four," 225, 
226; Central Pacific Railroad 
Co., organized, 226 ; elected 
engineer of road, 226 ; second 
mission to Washington, 226; 
bill enacted, 227 ; files plans 
for road, 227 ; return to Cali- 
fornia, 227 ; educates people, 
228; starts for Washington, 
228; death of, 228; Hittell's 
tribute to, 229. 

K 

Kearny, General Philip, com- 
mands Army of the West, 
94; prevails on Carson to 
join him, 94; engagement 
with Mexicans, 96 ; critical 
condition of army, 99; Car- 
son and Beale go for aid, 99; 
army relieved by Stockton, 
103. 

Kelley, Jay G., rider on first 
Pony Express Route, 127; 
thrilling experiences of, 133- 
135- 



5IO 



INDEX 



King, Clarence, first director of 
U. S. Geol. Survey, 207 ; his 
Mountaineering in the Sierra 
Nevada, 207 ; extracts from, 
208, 209; thrilling experi- 
ences ascending Mount Tyn- 
dall, 209-216; the dangerous 
descent, 216-220. 

King, James, of William, birth 
of, 154; letter from his 
brother, 155; arrives in Cali- 
fornia, 156; opens bank, 156; 
his integrity, 157; foreman 
of grand jury, 158; business 
reverses, 158; challenged to 
fight, 159; his reply, 159; its 
reception, 160; starts news- 
paper, 162; its success, 163; 
denounces wrong-doing, 163- 
165; demands trial of Cora, 
166; a power in the State, 
167; opposes appointment of 
Bagley, 167; attack on Casey, 
167; altercation with Casey, 
168; murder of, by Casey, 
t68; efifect of on citizens, 
168; Vigilance Committee re- 
called, 168; trials of Cora 
and Casey by Committee, 
169; execution of murderers, 
170; burial of King, 170; 
good he accomplished, 170. 

King, Thomas Starr, promi- 
nence during Civil War, 171 ; 
powerful sermon for Union, 
173; tours State for cause, 
175; life threatened, 175; ap- 
peals for funds for Sanitary 
Commission work, 176 ; trib- 
ute to, by James Linden, 176, 
177; illness and death, 178; 
tribute to, by William D. 
Simonds, 178; Whittier's 
poem on, 179. 

L 

Leland, Life of James P. 
Beckwourth, 109. 



Lemmon, John G., his birth, 
222; early life, 323; enlists 
for war, 323 ; in Anderson- 
ville, 323 ; health broken, 323 ; 
removes to California, 323; 
discovers new plants, 324; 
encouraged by Asa Gray, 
324; his botanical researches, 
324 ; marriage, 325 ; his wife 
an enthusiastic botanist, 325 ; 
the wild potato, 326; danger 
from Indians, 328; arduous 
trips, 329-332; ascent of 
Mount Agassiz, 332-335 ; 
work for conservation, 336 ; 
his labor appreciated, 336; 
his death, ^27- 

Lemmon, Sara Plummer, mar- 
riage, 325 ; an enthusiastic 
botanist. 325 ; her sketches of 
plants, 326; a dangerous trip, 
326-329; hostile Indians, 328; 
ascent of Mount Agassiz^ 
332-335 ; pioneer conserva- 
tionist, 336; authorship, 336, 
337 ; edits husband's last 
book, 337. 

Lick, James, birth of, 261 ; in 
New York, 262; to Buenos 
Ayres, 262; at Lima, Peru, 
262 ; arrives in San Fran- 
cisco, 263 ; real estate invest- 
ments, 264 ; the " Mahogany 
Mill," 264; his peculiarities, 
265; builds hotel, 266; gift to 
Academy of Sciences, 266; 
plans for Observatory, 267; 
the deeds of trust, 267-270; 
his death, 270; Observatory 
established, 271 ; his bene- 
factions, 271. 

Linden, James, tribute to 
Thomas Starr King, 176, 177. 

Lowe, Thaddeus S. C, birth of, 
417; early life, 417-419; 
chemical researches, 419, 420; 
balloon ascensions, 420; 
agreertient with Professor 



INDEX 



5" 



Henry, 421 ; discovers east- 
ern current of air, 421-424; 
ballooning experiences dur- 
ing the war, 424-427 ; experi- 
ments in refrigeration, 427, 
428; invention of gas making 
machinery, 428; settles in 
California, 429; inclined rail- 
ways, 429-431 ; builds Ob- 
servatory, 431; Mount Lowe 
Railway, 431, 432; refining 
petroleum, 433, 434; his in- 
ventions, 435 ; his fame, 436. 

M 

McCuTCHEON, William, one of 
Donner party, 57 ; volunteers 
with Stanton to go for aid, 
57 ; carries letter to Captain 
Sutter, 57; safe arrival, 58; 
illness of, 58. 

McGlashan, C. R, History of 
the Donner Party, 59. 

Majors, Alexander, joint-pro- 
prietor of stage route, 124; 
establishes first Pony Ex- 
press, 126; Memoirs of, 132. 

Manly, W. L., one of Death 
Valley Party, 74; volunteers 
with Rogers to seek aid, 74; 
reaches San Fernando Mis- 
sion, 75; returns with suc- 
cour, 75 ; suffering in the 
desert, 75 ; abandons animals, 
76; regains the party, 79; 
party goes forward, 81 ; 
amusing episode, 82; reaches 
Los Angeles, 85. 

Man with the Hoe, The, 452. 

Markham, Edwin, teaching 
school, 451 ; The Man zvith 
the Hoe, 452 ; its reception, 
454; the author's defense of 
the poem, 454-457 ; a cham- 
pion of the helpless, 458. 

Marley, W. C, superintendent 
of Pony Express station, 130. 

Maxwell, George H., organizes 



National Irrigation Associa- 
tion, 473. 

Mendoza, endeavors to surpass 
Cortes, I ; appoints Alargon 
to command of expedition to 
cooperate with Coronado, 2. 

Mohave Indians, Pattie's excit- 
ing encounter with, 34; pur- 
sues and defeats them, 35. 

Muir, John, early life, 339; in- 
ventive genius, 340; reflec- 
tions, 341, 342; temporary 
loss of sight, 343; through 
the South, 344; illness, 345; 
in California, 345; in the 
Sierra Nevada, 346; descrip- 
tion of country, 347-349 ; 
with Coast and Geodetic Sur- 
vey, 349; to Alaska, 349; 
rnember of Corwin expedi- 
tion, 349; visits Norway and 
Switzerland, 350 ; personal 
appearance, 350; his literary 
style, 350-354; five land- 
marks in his life, 355-360. 

Murphy, Virginia Reed. See 
Reed, Virginia. 

N 
North, John W., issues circu- 
lar for colony, 292 ; Riverside 
to-day, 292-295; the plan, 
295, 296; the land selected, 
297; his early life, 298; prac- 
tice of the law, 299; ap- 
pointed judge, 300; colony 
formed and land purchased, 
301, 302; starting the or- 
chards, 302-304; the first 
navel oranges, 305 ; starts 
new colony, 308. 

O 

Ontario, town started by 
Chaffey, 442; its growth, 
443; system of water supply, 
444- 



512 



INDEX 



Palou, companion of Serra, 9; 
sails from Cadiz, 9; arrives 
at Vera Cruz, 10; walks to 
Mexico City, 10. 

Papago Indians, warn de Anza 
of danger from Yumas, 18. 

Pattie, James O., trapping of 
animals, cruel, xii ; a trapper 
of Kentucky, 28 ; travels in 
Lower California, 28; taken 
prisoner, 29; vaccinates in- 
habitants, 29; Thwaites' story 
of, 29; joins Pratte, 30; im- 
prisoned at San Diego, 31 ; 
his father's death, 31 ; hatred 
of Governor Echeandia, 31 ; 
his narrative, 32-38 ; bear 
hunting on the Gila, 32; at- 
tacked by Mohaves, 34; death 
of his companions, 35 ; horses 
stolen by the Yumas, ■;>)'j ; 
builds canoes, 38; crosses 
Colorado Desert, 38. 

Peters, Dewitt C, Life of Car- 
sort, 96. 

Phelps, Captain W. D., in com- 
mand of the ship Alert, 104; 
of assistance to Fremont, 
104; diary of, 105-108. 

Pomeroy, Judge, quotation 
from, 246, 249. 

Pony Express, The, first con- 
sideration of, 125 ; establish- 
ment of first route. 126; first 
arrival in San Francisco, 
128; tariff for letters, 128; 
dangers for messengers, 129. 

Powell, John W., his ideas on 
Reclamation, 310-312; the 
speculator's plan, 312-313; his 
temptation, 314; his speech 
and its reception, 315, 316. 

Pratt, assistant to Charles 
Crocker, 239; loyalty to the 
Central Pacific Railroad, 239. 

Pratte, Bernard, a noted trap- 



per, joined by James O. 
Pattie, 30. 

R 

Randolph, Edmund, violent 
speech for slavery, 172. 

Reed, James T., organizer of 
the Donner Party, 64; kills 
Snyder in altercation, 66; 
banished by party, 66. 

Reed, Virginia, account of 
Donner Party, 60; daughter 
of organizer of Donner 
party, 66 ; takes aid to father, 
67; dangers of the journey, 
68-71 ; finds her father, 71 ; 
returns to party, y2. 

Richardson, H., rider on first 
Pony Express Route, 127. 

Richardson, William H., assas- 
sination of, 166. 

Rinehart, Robert E., story of 
the Death Valley party, 86- 
93- 

Rivera, Governor, receives de 
Anza's report, 23. 

Robidoux, French trapper, 
joined by John Bidwell, 47; 
organizes party, 47 ; varied 
experiences, 48. 

Rockwood, C. R., makes sur- 
veys for reclaiming the Colo- 
rado Desert, 440, 441 ; ap- 
peals to Chaffey Brothers, 
446; their interest enlisted. 
446; work taken up, 446; 
successful conclusion, 446 ; 
Imperial Valley prosperity 
largely due to him, 450. 

Roff, Harry, rider on first Pony 
Express Route, 127. 

Rogers, one of Death Valley 
party, 74; volunteers with 
Manly to seek aid, 74; 
reaches San Fernando Mis- 
sion, 75 ; '•eturns with suc- 
cour, 75 ; jufferings in the 
desert, 75 ; abandons animals. 



INDEX 



513 



76; regains the party, 79; 
party goes forward, 81 ; 
amusing episode, 82; reaches 
Los Angeles, 85. 

Royce, C. C, quotation from, 
on Bidwell, 53. 

Russell, joint-proprietor of 
stage route, 124 ; enthusiastic 
for Pony Express, 125 ; es- 
tablishes first Route, 126. 

Ryan, Alarah Ellis, pictures of 
old Mission life in The Soul 
of Rafael, 24. 



St. Joseph, Missouri, first 
westward Pony Express 
started from, 128. 

San Antonio de Padua Mis- 
sion, founded by Serra, 15. 

San Buenaventura Mission, 
founded by Serra, 15. 

San Carlos Mission, founded 
by Serra, 15; copy of Sar- 
ria's letter in archives of, 25. 

San Carlos Carmelo Mission, 
Junipero Serra buried in, 15. 

San Diego Mission, established 
by Serra, 15; division of de 
Anza's party arrives at, 19; 
de Anza goes to, 22. 

San Francisco de Asis Mission, 
founded by Serra, 15. 

San Gabriel Mission, founded 
by Serra, 15; on road from 
Lower to Upper California, 
17; de Anza arrives at, 19. 

San Juan Capistrano Mission, 
founded by Serra, 15. 

San Luis Obispo Mission, 
founded by Serra, 15. 

San Luis Rev Mission, Bidwell 
appointed alcade of, 53. 

Santa Barbara Mission, founded 
by Serra, 15 

Santa Clara Mission, founded 
by Serra, 15. 

Sargent, A. A., meets Judah on 



trip to Washington, 227 ; aids 
in Central Pacific R. R. Co., 
legislation, 227. 

Sarria, Francisco Vicente de, 
arrives in California, 25; 
elected Comisario prefecto, 
25 ; letter to missionaries, 25 ; 
his loyalty to Spain, 26 ; 
Gleeson's account of, 27; 
death of, 27. 

Serra, Junipero, spirit extolled, 
xi ; birth of, 7; joins Fran- 
ciscan Order, 7; fame as a 
preacher, 8; influenced by 
Dante, 8; becomes a mission- 
ary, 9; his companions, 9; 
sails from Cadiz, 9; suffer- 
ings on voyage, 10; arrives 
at Vera Cruz, 10 ; walks to 
Mexico City, 10; Jesuits ex- 
pelled from Lower Califor- 
nia, II ; appointed prcsidcnte, 
11; a pioneer, 11; revered by 
natives, 11 ; simplicity of life, 
12; ability of, 12, 13; his 
genius and tact, 13; his bra- 
very, 14; results of labors of, 
15; Missions established by, 
15; death and burial, 15; pe- 
titions for road to Upper 
California, 17; welcomes de 
Anza, 22 ; memorial cross to 

293- 
Simonds, Rev. William D., trib- 
ute to Thomas Starr King, 

Slavery, sentiment in Califor- 
nia for, 171-173. 

Sloat, Commodore, seized Cali- 
fornia for the United States, 
123. 

Smith. Jedediah. Joins Gf'neral 
Ashley's band of trapners, 
40: on Rio Virgen and Colo- 
rado River. 40; crosses Colo- 
rado Desert. 41 ; reaches San 
Gabriel, 41 ; arrested. 41 ; re- 
leased by Echeandia, 41; 



su 



INDEX 



writes Padre Duran, 42; 
crosses the Sierras, 42; re- 
turns to California, 43 ; bond 
signed by Captain Cooper, 
43; returns to Salt Lake, 44; 
killed by Indians, 44. 

" Snow-shoe " Thompson. See 
Thompson, John A. 

Smythe, William E., birth of, 
468; in Nebraska, 469; The 
Conquest of Arid America, 
469, 475; editorials on irriga- 
tion, 469-471 ; popularizes 
movement, 475; his book 
scientific, historical, practi- 
cal, 475, 476 ; quotation from, 
477; the "Little Landers," 
478-480; a great benefactor, 
481. 

Soiedad Mission, Padre Sarria 
dies at, 24; Sarria pastor of, 
27. 

Stanford, Leland, nominated 
for Governor, 226 ; elected 
president Central Pacific R. 
R. Co., 226; elected Gov- 
ernor, 235 ; efforts to raise 
funds, 237 ; announces com- 
pletion of road, 244. 

Stanton, Charles T., one of the 
Donner party. 57 ; volunteers 
with McCutcheon to go for 
aid, 57; carries letter to Cap- 
tain Sutter, 57; safe arrival, 
57; illness of McCutcheon, 
57; returns with Indian com- 
panions, 58; rejoins party, 
58; urges speed, 58; Mc- 
Glashan's history, 59; efforts 
to escape, 59 ; retvirn to the 
Lake, 60 ; the " Forlorn 
Hope," 60; sufferings of ad- 
vance^ party, 61-63; his death, 
62,; his body found, 63. 

Stockton, Commodore. Carson 
offers to seek aid of, 99; des- 
patches aid to Army of the 
West, 103. 



Sutro, Adolph, birth of, 273; 
early years, 274; arrival in 
America, 274; settles in Cali- 
fornia, 274; the Comstock 
lode, 274-278 ; formulates 
plan for tunnel, 278, 279; se- 
cures State aid, 279; national 
aid granted, 281 ; tunnel op- 
posed, 281 ; mass meeting of 
miners, 282; his speeches, 
283-286; congressional inves- 
tigation, 286; tunnel com- 
pleted 289; Hittell's view of, 
289; retires from corpora- 
tion, 290; real estate inter- 
ests, 290; elected mayor, 290. 

Sutter, Captain, joined by Bid- 
well, 52 ; orders Fort Ross 
dismantled, 52; letter from 
Donner party, 57; sends aid 
to, 58. 



Taylor, William, arrival in San 
Francisco, 140 ; preaches first 
sermon, 141 ; shrewdness and 
wit, 142-144; denunciation of 
gambling, 145 ; origin of 
" Shanghaing," 147 ; labors 
for seamen, 146-148; preaches 
against duelling, 148; sends 
first eucalyptus seed, 149; 
builds his house, 150; high 
cost of living, 152; his suc- 
cess, 152; establishes mis- 
sions, 153; appointed Mis- 
sionary Bishop, 153. 

Thatcher. George, rider on first 
Pony Express Route, 128. 

Thompson, John A. (" Snow- 
shoe"), bravery and endur- 
ance of, 195, 196; birth of. 
197; arrival in California, 
197; makes his first snow- 
shoes, 197; agility surprises 
friends, 199; begins carrying 
mails, 199; travelled light, 
200; method of camping. 



INDEX 



515 



202; working without pay, 
204; his claims rejected, 205; 
death of, 205. 
Thwaites, R. G., Introduction 
to Patties' Narrative, 29-31. 

U 

Ulloa, Francisco de, sails from 
Acapulco by order of Cortes, 
I ; discovers peninsula and 
gulf of California, 2; incom- 
petency of, 2. 

Union Pacific Railroad Co., 
connected with Central Pa- 
cific, 231 ; payment for com- 
pleted road, 241 ; rivalry with 
Central Pacific, 242; the last 
spike, 243. 

V 

Vasquez de Coronado, in serv- 
ice of Mendoza, 2; Alar- 
gon sent to cooperate with, 
2; sends Diaz to find Alar- 
gon, 4. 

Verges, companion of Serra, 9; 
sails from Cadiz, 9; arrives 
at Vera Cruz, 10. 

Vigilance Committee (of 1856), 
reorganized upon murder of 
James King, 168; take Cora 
and Casey from jail, 169; 
trial of, 169; execution of, 
170. 

Vincens, companion of Serra, 



9; sails from Cadiz, 9; ar- 
rives at Vera Cruz, 10. 

W 

Waddell, joint-proprietor of 
stage route, 124; establishes 
first Pony Express, 126. 

Weller, John B., speech for 
Breckenridge, 171. 

White, Stephen M., the strug- 
gle for San Pedro harbor, 
460-462; meeting with Hunt- 
ington, 462, 463; Hunting- 
ton's opinion of, 463 ; conclu- 
sion of speech in Senate, 
464. 

Whittier, John G., poem on 
Thomas Starr King, 179. 

Wozencraft, Dr. O. M., secures 
aid of State and national au- 
thorities, 439, 440; plan for 
reclaiming the Colorado Des- 
ert, 440; interfered with by 
Civil War. 440. 

Wright, William, account of 
" Snow - shoe " Thompson, 
195-206. 

Y 

Yuma Indians, reported un- 
friendly to de Anza, 19 ; give 
aid to his party, 19; division 
of his party return to, 19; 
stampede and capture Pat- 
tie's horses, 2>7- 



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